Andalusia 8th-11th September 2006 by Chris Batty and Stuart Piner

Kuwait 3rd-9th April 2007 by Chris Batty and Richard Bonser

Cape Verde Islands 1st-15th March 2007 by Stuart Piner

southern France and northern Spain 1st-10th August 2006 by Stuart Piner

Fuerteventura 15th-23rd February 2006 by Stephen Dunstan

Morocco 2nd-10th April 2005 by Richard Bonser, Alan Clewes and Stuart Piner

Cape Verde Islands 24th February-7th March 2005 by Chris Batty

southern France 20th-25th January 2005 by Stuart Piner

Armenia and Georgia 24th June-3rd July 2004 by Chris Batty

Turkey 16th-22nd June 2004 by Michael Hoit and Stuart Piner

Morocco 8th-15th March 2004 by Chris Batty

Spain 20th-24th February 2004 by Stuart Piner

Birding in the Atlantic Forests of Brazil by Colin Bushell

south central Turkey 23rd-29th June 2003 by Chris Batty

southern France 9th-13th February 2003 by Chris Batty

Western Cape, South Africa 22nd August-2nd September 2001 by Barry Dyson

Guinness & Gulls by Paul Slade


Andalusia 8th-11th September 2006

In September 2006 we spent a long weekend in southern Spain with Brian Egan, Andrew Holden, Keith Langdon, Tom Lowe and Vicky Turner. The primary aim of the trip was to connect with Rüppell's Griffon Vulture, but other specialities such as White-rumped Swift, Iberian Green Woodpecker and Orphean Warbler, and the impressive raptor migration were also high on the agenda. We also targeted Black-headed Weaver and Yellow-crowned Bishop, species with healthy populations in Spain that are listed on Category C in neighbouring Portugal.

Literature
Trip reports by
Richard Bonser, Roy Bottomley et al. and Ian Kinley et al. provided information on key sites and species and ‘Rüppell's Vultures in Spain’ by Dick Forsman in Birding World vol. 18, no. 10 provided essential information on the main target species. Dave Gosney’s ‘Finding Birds in Southern Spain’ was used on the trip and is referenced throughout this report.

Kris De Rouck, Hugues Dufourny and Graeme Joynt all provided useful information.

Itinerary
Friday 8th: flew Liverpool to Seville arriving 20:45.

Saturday 9th: Sierra de la Plata (Bolonia), Ciguena Negra Watchpoint (La Cazalla, Tarifa), La Janda, Jara Valley, El Algarrobo Watchpoint (Algeciras), Los Lances (Tarifa Beach).

Sunday 10th: El Algarrobo Watchpoint (Algeciras), Laguna de Medina, Lagunas de Espera, Laguna de Mejorada.

Monday 11th: Laguna de Mejorada, Brazo del Este, Trebujena Marismas, Algaida Pine Forest, Bonanza Salinas, Algaida Salinas, Parroso River. Flew Seville to Liverpool departing 21:10.

Site directions

Sierra de la Plata, Bolonia
White-rumped Swift cave: travel west from Tarifa for 14km on the N340 then take the turn signposted to Bolonia. After c7km turn right along main road just beyond the Bellavista Restaurant main road and continue for c3km through Bolonia. Park in layby 2km beyond ‘prohibido el paso zona militar’ sign and view cave with railings around it.

Arroyo de Alpariate: view by a stream that flows onto the beach in Bolonia, c150 metres before the entrance to the ancient Roman site of Baelo Claudia.

Ciguena Negra Watchpoint, La Cazalla, Tarifa
Heading from west, take track on left c2km after the final Tarifa turning on N340 up to a small satellite station.

La Janda
Take track off N340 midway between Tarifa and Vejer de la Frontera opposite easternmost Zahara de los Atunes turning and after c1km follow track along south side of canal.

Jara Valley
Take minor road north off N340 near Rio Jara mouth just west of Tarifa.

El Algarrobo Watchpoint, Algeciras
Driving west on the main road from Algeciras turn right c1.5km after the last roundabout onto a dirt track running off at 45 degrees from the road. Follow this to the concrete watchpoint.

Los Lances, Tarifa Beach
Take the westernmost Tarifa turning off the N340 and follow road around sports stadium to car park.

Laguna Medina
Located just east of C440, 10km south of Jerez. Most of the lagoons were dry during our visit, so we saw very few species.

Lagunas de Espera
Take N382 to Arcos de la Frontera off N-IV in Jerez de la Frontera then take C393 towards Espera. Go through village then turn left to Las Cabezas de San Juan and after 2km turn left towards Hondilla Lagoon.

Laguna de Mejorada
c2km north of Los Palacios y Villafranca on N-IV turn right just before canal and follow bank for c1km until road turns sharply left and crosses canal. Cross bridge and park just beyond. Rufous-tailed Bush Robins occur in the vineyards here, but we failed to locate any during our brief visit to the site.

To locate Western Olivaceous Warbler head back to the main road and turn left just beyond the canal then take the first right along a dirt road to the lagoon. We briefly saw two Western Olivaceous Warblers in the tamarisks that surround the lake. Rufous-tailed Bush Robins also occur at this location.

Brazo del Este
Gosney pages 14-15

Figure 1a: Google Earth image of Yellow-crowned Bishop and Black-headed Weaver sites, Gosney page 15 site 3.

Figure 1b: Google Earth image of Yellow-crowned Bishop and Black-headed Weaver sites, Gosney page 15 site 3.

Figure 2: Google Earth image of Black-headed Weaver nests at Brazo del Este, just north-west of Gosney page 15 site 1.

Trebujena Marismas
Between Trebujena and Lebrija on C441 between km 34 and km 36 (Gosney page 12 site 8).

Algaida Pine Forest
Take the road through Algaida into the pine forest (Gosney page 11 site 4).

Bonanza Salinas
Head north from Bonanza then take track north northwest at sharp right bend in road (Gosney page 11 site 2).

Algaida Wetlands
Gosney page 2.

Parroso River
View trees either side of viaduct on A-436 between Cantillana and El Carbonal.

Figure 3: Google Earth image of site for Iberian Green Woodpecker along Parroso River.

Key species

White-headed Duck
Seen at Algaida Wetlands.

Black-shouldered Kite
Seen at La Janda.

Rüppell's Griffon Vulture
Since 1992 small numbers of this species have been regularly seen at a number of sites in southernmost Spain (Forsman, 2005). With the European Union recently implementing a ban on leaving cattle carcases in fields, locating gatherings of Eurasian Griffon Vultures on the ground can be challenging. Therefore, we thought that the raptor watchpoints at Algeciras and Tarifa probably offered the best opportunity of connecting with a Rüppell's Griffon, whether it be migrating over the Straits of Gibraltar or just moving between sites in the local area. After nearly two full days of of searching in the Tarifa area, we had brief views of a bird from the El Algarrobo Watchpoint near Algeciras. We failed to locate any gatherings of vultures on the farmland and plains.

After returning home, it transpired that better views could be gained at a more reliable site - Sierra de Inmedio, a small mountain situated west of the track to the Santuario de La Luz, itself starting where the "estacion ornitologica la cigueña negra" is situated. Soon after our trip, two roosting birds were observed with Eurasian Griffon Vultures on cliffs viewed from the 'Mirador del Santuario' in the mornings.  On of these birds, or possible another was also seen in the La Janda agricultural plain at a carcass.

Audouin's Gull
Several on Los Lances, Tarifa Beach.

White-rumped Swift
We failed to locate any White-rumped Swifts at the traditional cave at Sierra de la Plata at dawn, but we connected with several birds nearby by Arroyo de Alpariate soon after first light.

Iberian Green Woodpecker
One seen well at by the viaduct at the Parroso River.

Western Olivaceous Warbler
Two seen briefly at Laguna de Mejorada.

Western Orphean Warbler
One seen in Algaida Pine Forest

Azure-winged Magpie
Several near the viaduct at the Parroso River.

Black-headed Weaver
Several at Brazo del Este.

Yellow-crowned Bishop
At Brazo del Este.

Common Waxbill
Common at Laguna de Mejorada.

Complete trip list
Common Teal Anas crecca crecca
Mallard Anas platyrhynchos platyrhynchos
Northern Pintail Anas acuta acuta
Garganey Anas querquedelua
Northern Shoveler Anas clypeata
Marbled Duck Marmaronetta angustirostris
Red-crested Pochard Netta rufina
Northern Pochard Aythya ferina
White-headed Duck Oxyura leucocephala
Scopoli’s Shearwater Calonectris diomedea
Balearic Shearwater Puffinus mauretanicus
Little Bittern Ixobrychus minutes minutes
Black-crowned Night Heron Nycticorax nycticorax nycticorax
Squacco Heron Ardeola ralloides ralloides
Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis ibis
Little Egret Egretta garzetta garzetta
Great White Egret Casmerodius albus albus
Grey Heron Ardea cinerea cinerea
Purple Heron Ardea purpurea purpurea
Black Stork Ciconia nigra
White Stork Ciconia ciconia ciconia
Glossy Ibis Plegadis falcinellus falcinellus
Eurasian Spoonbill Platalea leucorodia leucorodia
Greater Flamingo Phoenicopterus roseus
Little Grebe Tachybaptus ruficollis ruficollis
Black-necked Grebe Podiceps nigricollis nigricollis
Eurasian Honey Buzzard Pernis apivorus
Black-shouldered Kite Elanus caeruleus
Black Kite Milvus migrans
Red Kite Milvus milvus
Egyptian Vulture Neophron percnopterus
Eurasian Griffon Vulture Gyps fulvus
Ruppell's Griffon Vulture Gyps rueppellii
Short-toed Eagle Circaetus gallicus
Marsh Harrier Circus aeruginosus
Montagu's Harrier Circus pygargus
Eurasian Sparrowhawk Accipiter nisus
Common Buzzard Buteo buteo
Booted Eagle Aquila pennata
Bonelli's Eagle Aquila fasciata
Osprey Pandion haliaetus
Lesser Kestrel Falco naumanni
Common Kestrel Falco tinnunculus
European Merlin Falco columbarius
Peregrine Falcon Falco peregrinus
Red-legged Partridge Alectoris rufa
Moorhen Gallinula chloropus
Western Purple Gallinule Porphyrio porphyrio
Coot Fulica atra
Black-winged Stilt Himantopus himantopus
Collared Pratincole Glareola pratincola
Little Ringed Plover Charadrius dubius
Ringed Plover Charadrius hiaticula
Kentish Plover Charadrius alexandrinus
Sanderling Calidris alba
Temminck's Stint Calidris temminckii
Dunlin Calidris alpina
Ruff Philomachus pugnax
Common Snipe Gallinago gallinago
Black-tailed Godwit Limosa limosa
Common Redshank Tringa totanus
Common Greenshank Tringa nebularia
Green Sandpiper Tringa ochropus
Wood Sandpiper Tringa glareola
Common Sandpiper Actitis hypoleucos
Arctic Skua Stercorarius parasiticus
Black-headed Gull Larus ridibundus
Slender-billed Gull Larus genei
Audouin's Gull Larus audouinii
Lesser Black-backed Gull Larus fuscus
Yellow-legged Gull Larus michahellis
Little Tern Sternula albifrons
Sandwich Tern Sterna sandvicensis
Whiskered Tern Chlidonias hybrida
Rock Dove Columba livia
Woodpigeon Columba palumbus palumbus
Collared Dove Streptopelia dacaocto
Turtle Dove Streptopelia turtur
Pallid Swift Apus pallidus
Alpine Swift Apus melba
White-rumped Swift Apus caffer
Common Kingfisher Alcedo atthis
European Bee-eater Merops apiaster
Hoopoe Upupa epops
Iberian Green Woodpecker Picus sharpei
Great Spotted Woodpecker Dendrocopos major
Crested Lark Galerida cristata
Sand Martin Riparia riparia
Crag Martin Ptyonoprogne rupestris
Barn Swallow Hirundo rustica
Red-rumped Swallow Cecropis daurica
House Martin Delichon urbicum
Yellow Wagtail Motacilla flava
Grey Wagtail Motacill cinerea
White Wagtail Motacill alba
Common Redstart Phoenicurus phoenicurus
Western Stonechat Saxicola torquata
Northern Wheatear Oenanthe oenanthe
Black-eared Wheatear Oenanthe hispanica
Blue Rock Thrush Monticola solitarius solitarius
Common Blackbird Turdus merula
Cetti's Warbler Cetti cetti
Fan-tailed Warbler Cisticola juncidis
Western Reed Warbler Acrocephalus scirpaceus
Great Reed Warbler Acrocephalus arundinaceus
Western Olivaceous Warbler Hippolais opacus
Western Orphean Warbler Sylvia hortensis
Western Bonelli's Warbler Phylloscopus bonelli
Willow Warbler Phylloscopus trochilus
Spotted Flycatcher Muscicapa striata
Pied Flycatcher Ficedula hypoleuca
Long-tailed Tit Aegithalos caudatus
Blue Tit Cyanistes caeruleus
Great Tit Parus major
Short-toed Treecreeper Certhia brachydactyla
Woodchat Shrike Lanius senator
Azure-winged Magpie Cyanopica cyanus
Western Jackdaw Corvus monedula
Spotless Starling Sturnus unicolor
House Sparrow Passer domesticus
Eurasian Tree Sparrow Passer montanus
Black-headed Weaver Ploceus melanocephalus
Yellow-crowned Bishop Euplectes afer
Common Waxbill Estrilda astrild
Chaffinch Fringilla coelebs
European Serin Serinus serinus
Greenfinch Chloris chloris
Goldfinch Carduelis carduelis
Linnet Carduelis cannabina
Corn Bunting Emberiza calandra

Chris Batty and Stuart Piner (March 2008)

adult Egyptian Vulture

Griffon Vulture

Short-toed Eagle

dark morph Montagu's Harrier

Booted Eagle



Audouin's Gull

White-rumped Swift

female Iberian Green Woodpecker

Orphean Warbler

male Black-headed Weaver

male Yellow-crowned Bishop

Photos by Brian Egan and Chris Batty

 

 

 

 

 


Kuwait 3rd-9th April 2007

Participants: Chris Batty, Richard Bonser, Andy Clifton, Andrew Holden

 

Introduction

Up until very recently it was difficult to impossible for foreign nationals to visit Kuwait in a tourist capacity. The visa rules changed a couple of years ago and in April 2006 a Danish and a Finnish birding group visited the country and opened our eyes to the potential of such a trip. A chat with George Gregory following his presentation at the 2006 OSME meeting further whetted our appetite to visit the country.

 

This trip report covers the observations and information gleaned during a birding trip to Kuwait in April 2007. The main purpose of the trip was to find some difficult to see species in the Western Palearctic as well as experience the birding that the country has to offer. Kuwait is the only place in the Western Palearctic where Socotra Cormorant, Lesser Sand Plover, Red-vented Bulbul and Bank Myna can be reliably found. Added to this several other target species that Kuwait is good for (and that we recorded) include Crab Plover, Red-wattled Lapwing, Crested Tern, White-cheeked Tern, Bridled Tern, Dunn’s Lark, Black-crowned Finch Lark, White-eared Bulbul, Grey Hypocolius and Basra Reed Warbler. Fortunately our visit also coincided with the first breeding record for Kuwait of Common Babbler and an over-wintering Long-tailed Shrike.
 

Reading & Website Information

Much of the information gleaned prior to travel was from Andreas Hagerman’s excellent trip report from April 2006 and The Birds of the State of Kuwait by George Gregory (first published in 2005). We also used a trip report from a Finnish team (Rami Lindroos, Ilkka Sahi and Keijo Wahlroos) who visited the country at the same time as the Danish group.

 

A couple of threads on Birdforum (WP Rarities in Kuwait and Kuwait Bird News and Reports) have and hopefully will continue to provide useful information. Particularly useful files that can be found here include word documents containing the Kuwait Bird Reports for 2005 and 2006.

 

We were advised by George Gregory prior to our trip not to purchase a map until we arrived at the airport. This we did and we found the 1:500 000 Geo Projects/Arab World Map Library ‘Kuwait’ map to be more than sufficient during our stay.

 

Acknowledgements

Without doubt this is the most important section of the report as without the help of George Gregory this trip would certainly not have been as productive as it was. George went beyond what anybody would expect (and for other birding teams in spring 2007) organising access to otherwise inaccessible areas, taking us to birding sites and waiting countless hours at the airport to meet us all.

 

Brian Foster was also invaluable and also accompanied us in the field at times during our stay. The help and decent company provided by other Kuwait based birders, Pekka Fagel and Mike Pope, was also very much appreciated. Special mention as well to ‘the Norwegians’ Jarl Nystrom and Oivind Syvertsen who joined us on most days and were excellent company in the field and over evening meals. Sean Cole, Rob Thatcher, Don Sykes and Alex Parker also visited the country at the same time as us and provided decent company when we were in the field together.

 

And finally thanks to Tommy Frandsen, Andreas Hagerman, Jens Søgaard Hansen and Martin Poulsen for visiting the country in 2006 and to Andreas for writing the trip report – the format of which I have pinched for this report!

 

Other Information

 

Hotel

Like the Danes last year we stayed at the Hussa House Hotel (tel: 2560331 – 2520349) in Kuwait City, located behind The Continental. Due to the rather maze like structure of the road systems we took a GPS reading of the hotel so that we could get back to it each night! It seems that affordable accommodation is at a premium in the country with most hotels being rather more luxurious than the average birder needs. Therefore, at £16 per person per night, we would recommend staying at the Hussa House.

 

Car Hire and Travel

We hired a 4x4 for the duration of our stay. Many of the global hire car companies can be found at Kuwait airport. Many of the sites require travelling off road and from our experience a conventional car would not be appropriate. Travel is very easy throughout the country with good roads. Traffic can be heavy in rush hour in Kuwait City with the locals driving rather fast and close, but with a little time there is nothing different from travelling around any other major city. As Kuwait is an oil rich state petrol prices were extremely cheap – a few quid to fill up a gas-guzzling 4x4.

 

Eating/Drinking

The country is extremely westernized and therefore has what you’d expect in terms of McDonalds, Pizza Huts etc. Due to convenience we ate every night at a couple of restaurants in the vicinity of where we were staying. Food was reasonably priced, paying less than what you would in the UK. Supermarkets adjacent to petrol stations were well stocked and this is what we used for food during the day. Do note however that alcohol is, theoretically, illegal in Kuwait.

 

Hunting

The shooting of birds is evidently a popular pastime in Kuwait, particularly amongst young men. Having not experienced anything like this on our travels previously, it was rather disturbing. Although we of course could not ignore this as it was prevalent at a couple of sites we visited (particularly Al Abraq), it is something to bear in mind before you decide to go to Kuwait if you think it could completely ruin your trip. Casualties that we witnessed ranged from a Caspian Tern and calidrids to Sparrowhawks and Bee-eaters. It was, all told, pretty grim stuff.
 

Itinerary

An overview of our day-to-day itinerary is as follows. Note that although we were birding pretty much dawn til dusk, the small size of the country means that a lot of sites can be covered/re-covered on a daily basis.

 

3rd April Arrival Kuwait – Sulaibhikat – North Doha Nature Reserve – Doha Spit – South Doha Nature Reserve – Jahra East – Jahra Farms – Sabah-al-Salem

 

4th April Green Island – Sulaibhikat – Sabah-al-Ahmad (including Tulha) – Jahra East

 

5th April Jahra East – Abdaly Farms – Subiyah – Doha Spit – Jahra East – Sulaibhikat

 

6th April Pipeline Beach/Zour Port – Ras al Zour – Doha Spit – South Doha Nature Reserve – Sabah-al-Salem

 

7th April Green Island – Sabah-al-Ahmad (including Tulha) – Jahra East – Doha Spit – Jahra Farms – South Doha Nature Reserve

 

8th April Al Abraq Al Khabari – Sabah-al-Ahmad (including Tulha) – Doha Spit – Kabd

 

9th April Depart Kuwait


 

SITE DETAILS

George Gregory’s ‘The Birds of the State of Kuwait’ has a lot of information on specific sites and this section aims to document our experiences of birding at several of these sites. The map below illustrates an approximate layout of the country and the sites that we visited during our visit. To give you an example of scale, driving from Kuwait City to Abdaly Farms should not take more than a couple of hours.

 


Abdaly Farms
A vast expanse of agriculture near the Iraq border that is good for migrants – we saw species such as Eastern Olivaceous and Menetries’s Warblers, White-throated Robin and Rufous-tailed Scrub Robin on our visit. The undoubted highlight was witnessing a family party of Common Babblers – the first confirmed breeding of this species in Kuwait. We located this species and Red-wattled Lapwing at 29”57’51N, 47”48’38E whilst another area (30”00’54N, 47”45’01E) visited produced little on our visit but is meant to be one of the best sites to see Shikra in the winter.

 

Al-Abraq Al-Khabari An enclosed farm (29”22’08N, 46”57’41E) isolated in the western desert. It is accessed off the main road at 29”25’58N, 47”00’37E. Just a couple of days before our visit it had played host to Kuwait’s first Radde’s Accentor. Although we had a good time here, this is where we experienced the most shooting and the devastating effects that come with it. Accipters seemed to be the main target and this was evident by a number of dead Sparrowhawks we found, but the most distressing sight was that of a Bee-eater being shot out of the sky. This is apparently the best place to see African Collared Dove in Kuwait but we failed to find this species here, although it was apparently seen whilst we were on site. We witnessed a wave of migrants moving through that included a couple of Barred and Menetries’s Warblers, an Icterine Warbler, a couple of Semi-collared Flycatchers as well as good numbers of Lesser Whitethroats and Redstarts.

 

Doha Spit and North Doha Nature Reserve The high tide roost at Doha Spit (29”22’39N, 47”50’17E) and the adjacent North Doha Nature Reserve (located just to the south near the sluice gates) are the best places in Kuwait to look for waders and terns. Much of the watching should be done from the car as once you get out flushing the roosting birds is quite likely. We saw half a dozen Crab Plovers here as well as large numbers of Lesser Sand Plover and Terek Sandpiper. One or two Crested Terns could normally be found with the Lesser Crested and Sandwich Tern flock whilst on one visit a White-cheeked Tern was present. Additionally, like Jahra East, this is probably a decent site to search for Saunders’s Tern as, with patience, you can get decent views of the Little Terns. The Kuwait Bay waders can also be viewed from behind the nearby Manchester Club.

 

Green Island A small promontory along the seafront in Kuwait City. This is the only place in the Western Palearctic to see Red-vented Bulbul and they can be easily located along with the more numerous and White-cheeked Bulbuls. Although we didn’t see too much here migrant wise this is possibly one of the best places to search for Grey Hypocolius – the Danish group had 24 together here in April 2006.

 

Jahra East The outfall (29”21’22N, 47”43’44E) can be accessed from several tracks off the main road. The adjacent reedy area adjacent to the outfall is probably the best site in Kuwait to search for Basra Reed Warbler – we located one bird here after a fair bit of searching and other teams in 2007 seemed also to have success in finding this species here. We also observed a couple of Little Crakes and a Moustached Warbler in the channel here. The whole area was full of Red-throated Pipits and flava wagtails as well.

 

If you walk/drive west from the outfall there is a good vantage point to look out into Kuwait Bay – this was a site recommended to us to search for Saunders’s Tern though, despite scrutiny of Little Terns, we were unsuccessful. During our visits we did see Black-winged Pratincole, Great Black-headed Gull and Isabelline Shrike here along with lots of terns and waders.

 

Jahra Farms An area of small agricultural farms in Jahra town. The main area (29”21’04N, 47”40’27E) can be accessed from the mosque car park on the opposite side of the road to Burger King. This is currently the only place where Bank Myna is found in the Western Palearctic – they were nesting in the well near the road at 29”20’54N, 47”40’25E during our visit. We also saw White-throated Kingfisher here as well as several migrants including Semi-collared Flycatcher and Eastern Imperial Eagle.

 

Kabd An agricultural farm where special access is needed to visit. Rather amusingly on our visit, we all had to dress up in rather fetching blue uniforms and wear masks to prevent the spread of avian flu! It is, however, probably the best site in Kuwait for Egyptian Nightjar but on our visit the windy conditions conspired against us. Pale Rock Sparrow and a handful of Isabelline Shrikes were the highlights of our visit.

 

Pipeline Beach/Zour Port In 2006 this area seemed to be the Danes favourite site but it seems that on our visit migration was not quite as good and access more restricted. The hole in the fence that the Danes mention in their trip report is no longer and you are unable to access the beach (where they saw Socotra Cormorant and Egyptian Nightjar amongst other species) from the road. Our highlights in this area of sparse bushes and semi-desert included a male Turkestan Shrike and a Steppe Grey Shrike.

 

Ras al Zour A private army/oil base on the southern Kuwait coast with extremely difficult access – to put it into perspective this was a site that some of the resident Kuwait birders had not visited previously due to access issues. A sandy islet just offshore provided us with decent views of the target species – Socotra Cormorant – as well as good numbers of White-cheeked and Lesser Crested Terns. A single Crested Tern was also seen and at least a dozen Bridled Terns were present offshore. Birding around the base and the adjacent golf course produced several migrants including Pied Wheatear, Isabelline Shrike and several Lesser Kestrels.

 

Sabah-al-Ahmad Nature Reserve (including Tulha Oasis) A large area of steppe grassland, stony desert and rocky ravines located to the north-west of Kuwait City on the road to Iraq. The highlight of our visit were at least 6 Dunn’s Larks (including 2 juveniles) and a male Black-crowned Finch Lark attending a nest. Other species we found here included Bimaculated Lark, Hoopoe Lark, Steppe Grey Shrike and Lesser Kestrel. Though we were probably a bit too late, small numbers of Red-tailed Wheatear (chrysopygia) winter in the rocky ravines here (particularly that at 29”31’24N, 47”47’43E).

 

The reserve contains Tulha - an area of bushes that surround a small pool (29”35’07N, 47”47’01E). This site, the only area of greenery in an otherwise barren landscape, is extremely attractive to migrants. A pair of Grey Hypocolius were present on one visit, small numbers of Pale Rock Sparrow were seen and at least one European Scops Owl was found roosting on each of our visits. Other species we noted here included Eastern Orphean Warbler, Semi-collared Flycatcher and Steppe Grey Shrike as well as lots of common migrants such as Hoopoe, Wryneck, Redstart, Rufous-tailed Scrub Robin and White-throated Robin. Waders such as Wood Sandpiper and Black-winged Stilt were found on the small pond. As this is a gated nature reserve, the lack of shooters during our visits made the site even more enjoyable.

 

Sabah-al-Salem We visited this site, on the southern outskirts of Kuwait City, a couple of times. There is a small area of bushes that attract migrants and in recent times Egyptian Nightjar has been seen at dusk (though we failed to find this species). A small reedy area on the opposite side of the road is good for two introduced (though as yet not classified as ‘self-sustaining) species – Streaked and Black-headed Weaver.

 

South Doha Nature Reserve A couple of small pools fringed with reeds (29”19’37N, 47”47’33E) to the west of Kuwait City where seistanicus Purple Swamphen can be found. We also located Basra Reed Warbler and Clamorous Reed Warbler here. Note that this was the worst place we found for mosquitoes in Kuwait, particularly in the evenings (this being the best time to see the Swamphens as well!).

 

Subiyah A small enclosed area of bushes surrounding a farm at the north-eastern most point of Kuwait Bay (29”34’21N, 47”54’26E). We encountered hunters here who thankfully were not the best shooters and a cage full of birds here included 3 Grey Hypocolius that presumably had been caught locally. An Eversmann’s Redstart was present here for a couple of days in late 2006 but our visit produced little in the way of migrants; an Eastern Orphean Warbler the only bird of note.

 

Sulaibhikat A small area of rough ground and bushes on the shores of Kuwait Bay; located to the west of Kuwait City. An over-wintering Long-tailed Shrike favoured the palms by the wall on the southern side of the reserve during our stay whilst this area seemed to be a decent migration spot. Namaqua Doves were seen on all of our visits whilst other highlights included a female Grey Hypocolius, a couple of Daurian Shrikes and a male semenowi Cinereous Bunting. There is also a viewing platform where you can look out at the waders, gulls, terns and flamingos in Kuwait Bay.

 

 

DAILY SIGHTINGS

This section hopefully will give you a feel of what species we recorded at each site during each visit. One thing that was really enjoyable about our visit was you could visit sites time and time again and see a different variety of species on a day-to-day basis. This section is pretty much lifted from my notebook and arranged in a decent species order. Though I have tried to include all species, there may be occasions where commoner species have been omitted from some sites.

 

Particularly noteworthy species/observations are in bold and where the letter C is stated, this species was common at that site.

 

 

3rd APRIL 2007

Arrival late evening/early morning to Kuwait International Airport

 

Sulaibhikat Nature Reserve

Grey Heron 10+,  Greater Flamingo 400+,  Kentish Plover 10+,  Little Stint c.80,  Slender-billed Gull c.200,  Little Tern 1,  Namaqua Dove 4,  Hoopoe 1,  Bee-eater 7,  Swallow 10,  Crested Lark C,  White Wagtail 1,  Red-throated Pipit 3,  Redstart 1,  Bluethroat 1,  Rufous-tailed Scrub Robin 1,  Eastern Black-eared Wheatear 1,  Rock Thrush 1 (male),  Stonechat 2, Grey Hypocolius 1(female),  White-cheeked Bulbul C,  Graceful Prinia 12,  Lesser Whitethroat 2, Long-tailed Shrike 1,  Common Myna 5,  House Sparrow C,  Ortolan 1

  

North Doha Nature Reserve

Cormorant 1,  Teal c.50,  Pallid Harrier 1,  Ringed Plover 25+,  Kentish Plover 30+,  Little Stint 50+,  Dunlin 20+,  Curlew Sandpiper 50+,  Curlew C,  Redshank 100+,  Greenshank 50+,  Terek Sandpiper 150+,  Turnstone c.10,  Slender-billed Gull 50+,  Caspian Tern 10+

 

Doha Spit

Greater Flamingo 1,  Black Kite 1,  Pallid Harrier 2,  Oystercatcher c.50,  Crab Plover 3,  Kentish Plover C,  Lesser Sand Plover 200+,  Grey Plover 50+,  Sanderling C,  Dunlin C,  Little Stint C,  Ruff 3,  Curlew C,  Whimbrel 2,  Marsh Sandpiper 8,  Terek Sandpiper 30+,  Common Sandpiper 2,  Turnstone c.40,  Slender-billed Gull C,  Heuglin’s Gull 4,  Caspian Tern 50+,  Sandwich Tern 3,  Lesser Crested Tern c.75,  Crested Tern 1

 

South Doha Nature Reserve

Little Bittern 1,  Little Egret 2,  Purple Heron 9,  Steppe Eagle 1,  Purple Swamphen heard,  Rufous-tailed Scrub Robin 1,  Tree Pipit 2,  Chiffchaff C,  House Sparrow C

 

Jahra East

Cormorant 4,  Squacco 8+,  Western Reef Egret 1,  Purple Heron 2, Black-winged Stilt 2,  Black-winged Pratincole 28,  Collared Pratincole 1,  Grey Plover c.10,  Ruff 4,  Common Sandpiper 4,  Slender-billed Gull C,  Black-headed Gull c.30,  Great Black-headed Gull 1(2cy),  Heuglin’s Gull 3,  Caspian Tern 15+,  Little Tern 1,  Sand Martin 2,  Red-throated Pipit C, Yellow Wagtail 100s,  Isabelline Shrike 1(phoenicuroides)

 

Jahra Farms

Little Bittern 1,  Ring-necked Parakeet 5,  Wryneck 1,  Tree Pipit c.8,  Redstart c.8,  Nightingale 1,  Lesser Whitethroat 2,  Blackcap 5+,  Chiffchaff C,  Semi-collared Flycatcher 2,  White-cheeked Bulbul 2,  Bank Myna 8+, Common Myna 5

 

Sabah-al-Salem

Wryneck 1,  Grey Wagtail 1,  Yellow Wagtail c.15,  Graceful Prinia c.5,  Great Reed Warbler 1,  Chiffchaff C,  Common Myna c.10,  (Streaked Weaver 2males),  (Black-headed Weaver 2males)

 

 

4th APRIL 2007

 

Green Island

Lesser Black-backed Gull 1,  Slender-billed Gull 1,  Wryneck 1,  Red-throated Pipit 1,  Red-vented Bulbul 4,  White-cheeked Bulbul 20+,  Whitethroat 1,  Lesser Whitethroat C,  Eastern Orphean Warbler 2,  Blackcap c.5,  Chiffchaff 5+

 

Sulaibhikat Nature Reserve

Short-toed Eagle 1,  Namaqua Dove 2,  Pallid Swift 30+,  Bee-eater 7,  Wryneck 2,  Swallow C,  Crested Lark C,  White-cheeked Bulbul C,  Pied Wheatear 1,  Redstart c.10,  Rufous-tailed Scrub Robin 1,  Graceful Prinia C,  Reed Warbler 2,  Grasshopper Warbler 1,  Lesser Whitethroat C, Woodchat 1,  Isabelline Shrike 1(phoenicuroides), Cinereous Bunting 1(male, semenowi)

 

Sabah-al-Ahmad (including Tulha Oasis)

Squacco 1,  Kestrel 4,  Short-toed Eagle 1,  Pallid Harrier 2, Steppe Buzzard 1,  Wood Sandpiper 1,  Common Sandpiper 3,  Scops Owl 2,  Little Owl 1,  Collared Dove 10+,  Roller 1,  Dunn’s Lark 2,  Black-crowned Finch Lark 1(male, attending nest),  Bar-tailed Lark 4,  Hoopoe Lark c.5,  Bimaculated Lark 2,  Lesser Short-toed Lark 1,  Short-toed Lark 15+,  Swallow C,  Tawny Pipit 2,  Red-throated Pipit 2,  Yellow Wagtail 4,  Grey Wagtail 2,  Northern Wheatear 4, Eastern Orphean Warbler 1,  Lesser Whitethroat c.5,  Blackcap 3,  Chiffchaff C,  House Sparrow C,  Ortolan 2

 

Jahra East

Little Bittern 1,  Squacco 2,  Purple Heron 1,  Glossy Ibis 17+,  Marsh Harrier 2,  Little Crake 2(pair),  Black-winged Stilt c.15,  Green Sandpiper 4,  Common Sandpiper C,  Sand Martin c.5,  Red-rumped Swallow 1,  Swallow C,  Red-throated Pipit c.15,  Yellow Wagtail C, Moustached Warbler 1,  Great Reed Warbler 2,  Reed Warbler 1,  Savi’s Warbler heard,  Isabelline Shrike 1(phoenicuroides)

 

 

5th APRIL 2007

 

Jahra East

Cormorant 2,  Little Crake 1(female),  Common Sandpiper C,  Swallow C,  Red-throated Pipit c.5,  Yellow Wagtail C,  Basra Reed Warbler 1, Great Reed Warbler 8+,  Reed Warbler 2,  Sedge Warbler 2, Savi’s Warbler heard

 

Roadside café south of Abdaly

Black Kite 1,  Bluethroat 2,  White-throated Robin 1,  Chiffchaff c.5,  Masked Shrike 1, House Sparrow C

 

Abdaly Farms

Pallid Harrier 1,  Steppe Buzzard 1,  Red-wattled Lapwing 3,  Roller 1,  Red-throated Pipit  2,  White-throated Robin 1,  Rufous-tailed Scrub Robin 2,  Graceful Prinia C,  Menetries’s Warbler 1, Eastern Olivaceous Warbler 1,  Lesser Whitethroat 1, Common Babbler 4(2 adults and 2 juveniles),  Common Myna c.5

 

Subiyah

Sparrowhawk 1,  Cuckoo 1, Red-throated Pipit 1,  Redstart 1,  Song Thrush 1, Eastern Orphean Warbler 1,  Lesser Whitethroat 2,  Chiffchaff c.4,  House Sparrow C

 

Doha Spit/Manchester Club

Grey Heron 25+,  Greater Flamingo 2,  Shoveler 6,  Black Kite 1,  Osprey 1,  Crab Plover 1,  Ringed Plover 50+,  Kentish Plover 20,  Curlew Sandpiper 1,  Dunlin C,  Grey Plover c.5,  Ruff 4,  Bar-tailed Godwit 1,  Curlew C,  Marsh Sandpiper 2,  Terek Sandpiper c.150,  Common Sandpiper 5,  Turnstone 10,  Heuglin’s Gull 1,  Slender-billed Gull 200+,  Caspian Tern 50,  Gull-billed Tern c.20,  Sandwich Tern 4

 

Jahra East

Purple Heron 2,  Glossy Ibis 19,  Greater Flamingo c.20,  Montagu’s Harrier 1,  Black-winged Stilt c.10,  Grey Plover 10,  Little Stint C,  Sanderling C,  Bar-tailed Godwit 4,  Caspian Tern 20+,  Slender-billed Gull C,  Black-headed Gull C,  Gull-billed Tern 5,  Little Tern 14,  Swallow C,  Yellow Wagtail c.50, White Wagtail c.5

 

Sulaibhikat Nature Reserve

Namaqua Dove 2,  (Monk Parakeet 1),  Bee-eater 30+,  Swallow C,  Yellow Wagtail C,  Tree Pipit c.10,  Red-throated Pipit 2,  White-cheeked Bulbul C,  Redstart 2,  White-throated Robin 1,  Rufous-tailed Scrub Robin 2,  Graceful Prinia C,  Willow Warbler 1,  Chiffchaff C,  Isabelline Shrike 2(isabellinus),  Woodchat 1

 

 

6th APRIL 2007

Pipeline Beach/Zour Port

Pallid Harrier 1,  Bee-eater 1,  Redstart c.6,  Rufous-tailed Scrub Robin 1,  Eastern Olivaceous Warbler 1,  Lesser Whitethroat 4,  Whitethroat 1,  Blackcap 3,  Chiffchaff c.15,  Southern Grey Shrike 1(pallidirostris),  Isabelline Shrike 1(phoenicuroides),  Woodchat 1

 

Ras al Zour

Cormorant 2,  Socotra Cormorant 5+,  Lesser Kestrel c.5,  Marsh Harrier 1,  Avocet 1,  Sanderling c.25,  Curlew 2,  Slender-billed Gull c.80,  Caspian Gull 1,  Bridled Tern c.12,  White-cheeked Tern 70+,  Sandwich Tern c.5,  Gull-billed Tern 3,  Lesser Crested Tern c.100,  Crested Tern 1,  Caspian Tern c.10,  Little Tern 10+, Hoopoe 1,  Crested Lark C,  House Martin 2,  Swallow C,  Tree Pipit 2,  Yellow Wagtail 2,  Grey Wagtail 1,  White-cheeked Bulbul C,  Redstart 4,  White-throated Robin 1,  Rufous-tailed Scrub Robin 2,  Pied Wheatear 1,  Northern Wheatear 1,  Lesser Whitethroat 3,  Chiffchaff C,  Isabelline Shrike 1 (phoenicuroides),  Ortolan 1

 

Doha Spit

Western Reef Egret 1,  Crab Plover 6,  Lesser Sand Plover 300+,  Kentish Plover C,  Ringed Plover c.40,  Grey Plover 2,  Broad-billed Sandpiper c.5,  Dunlin C,  Sanderling C,  Curlew Sandpiper C,  Bar-tailed Godwit 6,  Marsh Sandpiper c.10,  Terek Sandpiper 600+,  Turnstone C,  Slender-billed Gull C,  Sandwich Tern 5+,  Lesser Crested Tern 15+,  Crested Tern 1,  Caspian Tern c.20

 

South Doha Nature Reserve

Moorhen 1, Green Sandpiper 1,  Bluethroat 1,  Reed Warbler 1,  Chiffchaff C,  Woodchat 1

 

Sabah-al-Salem

Peregrine 1, Snipe 2,  pratincole sp. 1,  Great Reed Warbler 1,  (Black-headed Weaver 1male)

 

 

7th APRIL 2007

 

Green Island

Red-vented Bulbul 2, White-cheeked Bulbul C, Blackcap 2,  Lesser Whitethroat c.8

 

Sabah-al-Ahmad

Dunn's Lark 6,  Hoopoe Lark 3,  Bar-tailed Lark 1,  Short-toed Lark c.15, Crested Lark C,  Swallow C,  Tawny Pipit c.5, Yellow Wagtail 2, Northern Wheatear 1,  Southern Grey Shrike(aucheri) 1,  Woodchat 1

 

Tulha Oasis (within Sabah-al-Ahmad)

Black Kite 1,  Pallid Harrier 1,  Black-winged Stilt 2,  Wood Sandpiper,  Namaqua Dove 1,  Cuckoo 2,  Bee-eater c.5,  Hoopoe 1,  Wryneck 1,  Grey Hypocolius 2(pair), Rufous-tailed Scrub Robin c.4,  White-throated Robin 6+,  Redstart c.10,  Rock Thrush 1,  Lesser Whitethroat C,  Blackcap C,  Icterine Warbler 2,  Chiffchaff C,  Semi-collared Flycatcher 1,  Southern Grey Shrike 1(pallidirostris),  Woodchat 1,  Pale Rock Sparrow c.12,  Spanish Sparrow C,  Ortolan 20+

 

Jahra East

Western Reef Egret 1,  Little Egret 10,  Black Kite 1,  Osprey 1,  Collared Pratincole 1,  Black-winged Stilt 10,  Little Stint C,  Dunlin C,  Ruff c.30,  Black-headed Gull C,  Slender-billed Gull C,  Gull-billed Tern 3,  Caspian Tern C,  Little Tern 4, Ortolan 1

 

Doha Spit

Lesser Sand Plover 400+,  Ringed Plover C, Kentish Plover C,  Broad-billed Sandpiper c.10,  Dunlin C,  Sanderling C,  Little Stint C,  Curlew Sandpiper C,  Bar-tailed Godwit 2,  Curlew C,  Marsh Sandpiper c.10,  Terek Sandpiper C,  Turnstone C,  Slender-billed Gull C,  Heuglin’s Gull 2,  White-cheeked Tern 1,  Gull-billed Tern 1,  Sandwich Tern c.15,  Lesser Crested Tern c.20,  Crested Tern 1,  Caspian Tern C,  Little Tern 4

 

Jahra Farms

Eastern Imperial Eagle 1(2cy),  Laughing Dove C,  White-throated Kingfisher 1,  Cuckoo 2,  Tree Pipit 3,  Redstart 2,  Nightingale 1,  Chiffchaff C,  Semi-collared Flycatcher 1,  Common Myna C,  Bank Myna 2+,  Ortolan 1

 

South Doha Nature Reserve

Little Bittern 1,  Night Heron 1,  Purple Swamphen 2(seistanicus),  Moorhen 2,  Reed Warbler C,  Basra Reed Warbler 1,  Clamorous Reed Warbler 1,  Great Reed Warbler 2,  Sedge Warbler 1,  Chiffchaff C

 

 

8th APRIL 2007

 

Al-Abraq Al-Khabari

Cattle Egret 1,  Squacco 2,  Pallid Harrier 2,  Sparrowhawk 2,  Turtle Dove 2,  Collared Dove 2,  Cuckoo 1,  Bee-eater 1,  Red-throated Pipit 5+,  Yellow Wagtail c.10,  White-throated Robin 2,  Rufous-tailed Scrub Robin 1,  Pied Wheatear 1,  Redstart 5,  Barred Warbler 2,  Whitethroat 1,  Lesser Whitethroat c.8,  Menetries’s Warbler 2,  Icterine Warbler 1,  Chiffchaff C,  Willow Warbler 2,  Semi-collared Flycatcher 2,  Woodchat 1

 

Sabah-al-Ahmad (including Tulha Oasis)

Lesser Kestrel 25+,  Montagu’s Harrier 1,  Common Sandpiper 1,  Wood Sandpiper 1,  Scops Owl 1,  Little Owl 1, Crag Martin 1,  Swallow C,  Tawny Pipit c.5,  Pied Wheatear 2,  Rufous-tailed Scrub Robin 1,  Redstart 4,  Southern Grey Shrike 1(pallidirostris),  Ortolan c.5

 

Doha Spit

Western Reef Egret 1,  Oystercatcher 12,  Lesser Sand Plover 300+,  Dunlin C,  Sanderling C,  Curlew Sandpiper C,  Whimbrel 1,  Bar-tailed Godwit 2,  Slender-billed Gull C,  Great Black-headed Gull 1(2cy),  Heuglin’s Gull 4,  Sandwich Tern 15+,  Lesser Crested Tern c.25,  Crested Tern 2,  Caspian Tern c.50,  Little Tern 5

 

Kabd

Hobby 1,  Lesser Kestrel 2,  Sparrowhawk 1,  Booted Eagle 1,  Namaqua Dove 1,  Collared Dove 3,  Bee-eater c.10,  Cuckoo 1,  Short-toed Lark 5,  Rufous-tailed Scrub Robin 1,  Rock Thrush 1,  Eastern Olivaceous Warbler 1,  Isabelline Shrike 5 (3 phoenicuroides, 1 isabellinus and 1 ‘karelini’), Pale Rock Sparrow c.10, Ortolan 2

 

 

9th APRIL 2007

Departure from Kuwait International Airport early morning

 


SPECIES LIST
(156 Species recorded)

 

Common Teal Anas crecca

Only seen in Kuwait Bay with highest count c.50 at North Doha Nature Reserve 3rd April

 

Northern Shoveler Anas clypeata

6 Doha Spit near the Manchester Club 5th April

 

Great Cormorant Phalacrocorax carbo

Up to 4 noted in Kuwait Bay on several occasions and 2 seen with the next species at Ras al Zour 6th April

 

Socotra Cormorant Phalacrocorax nigrogularis

In the Western Palearctic this species is restricted to the southern Kuwait coast. 5+ were noted on a sandy islet off Ras al Zour 6th April

 

Little Bittern Ixobrychus minutus

Singles at South Doha Nature Reserve 3rd and 7th April, a confiding male at Jahra Farms 3rd April and 1 Jahra East 4th April

 

Black-crowned Night Heron Nycticorax nycticorax

1 over South Doha Nature Reserve at dusk 7th April

 

Squacco Heron Ardeola ralloides

Seen in decent numbers at Jahra East on most visits and 1 at Tulha 4th April

 

Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis

1 Al Abraq 8th April

 

Western Reef Egret Egretta gularis

Singles noted at Doha Spit and Jahra East on several dates

 

Little Egret Egretta garzetta

Small numbers at sites in Kuwait Bay such as Jahra East and Doha Spit

 

Grey Heron Ardea cinerea

Commonly seen in Kuwait Bay at sites such as Jahra East and Sulaibhikat

 

Purple Heron Ardea purpurea

9 South Doha Nature Reserve 3rd April and ones and twos at Jahra East on several dates

 

Glossy Ibis Plegadis falcinellus

17 Jahra East 4th April and 19 there the following day

 

Greater Flamingo Phoenicopterus roseus

Common in Kuwait Bay with upwards of 400 seen from Sulaibhikat 3rd April

 

Black Kite Milvus migrans lineatus

A handful seen during the trip; singles at Jahra East, Abdaly, Doha Spit (on two occasions) and Tulha. Individuals were of the eastern form lineatus or ‘Black-eared Kite’

 

Short-toed Eagle Circaetus gallicus

Singles at Sulaibhikat and Sabah-al-Ahmad 4th April

 

Marsh Harrier Circus aeruginosus

2 over the reedbed at Jahra East 4th April and a migrant over Ras al Zour 6th April

 

Pallid Harrier Circus macrourus

Small numbers seen each day; the steppe areas at Sabah-al-Ahmad being particularly productive and migrants seen at sites such as Doha Spit and Pipeline Beach/Zour Port

 

Montagu’s Harrier Circus pygargus

Singles at Jahra East 5th April and Sabah Al-Ahmad 8th April

 

Eurasian Sparrowhawk Accipter nisus

1 Subiyah 5th April, 2 Al Abraq and 1 Kabd 8th April. Additionally 2 shot birds were unfortunately found at Al Abraq 8th April

 

Common Buzzard Buteo buteo vulpinus

1 Tulha 4th April and 1 Abdaly Farms 5th April

 

Steppe Eagle Aquila nipalensis

1 over South Doha Nature Reserve 3rd April

 

Eastern Imperial Eagle Aquila heliaca

1 2nd calendar year bird over the Burger King car park at Jahra 7th April

 

Booted Eagle Hieraaetus pennatus

1 dark morph Kabd 8th April

 

Osprey Pandion haliaetus

1 Doha Spit 5th April and 1 Jahra East 7th April

 

Lesser Kestrel Falco naumanni

Small numbers seen actively migrating over Ras al Zour 6th April, 25+ grounded birds during inclement weather at Sabah Al-Ahmad 7th April and 2 Kabd 8th April

 

Common Kestrel Falco tinnunculus

Seen in small numbers at most sites throughout our visit

 

Hobby Falco subbuteo

1+ at Kabd Agricultural Farm 8th April

 

Peregrine Falco peregrinus

1 over the Kuwait City skyline at Sabah-al-Salem 6th April

 

Little Crake Porzana parva

A male and female Jahra East 4th April with a female there 5th April

 

Moorhen Gallinula chloropus

Only seen at South Doha Nature Reserve and Jahra East

 

Purple Swamphen Porphyrio porphyrio seistanicus

2 at dusk at South Doha Nature Reserve 7th April

 

Oystercatcher Haematopus ostralegus

Peak of c.50 Doha Spit 3rd April, otherwise noted in small numbers in Kuwait Bay

 

Black-winged Stilt Himantopus himantopus

Up to 15 Jahra East and 2 on the small pool at Tulha 7th April

 

Avocet Recurvirostra avosetta

1 on the sandy island off Ras al Zour 6th April

 

Crab Plover Dromas ardeola

We only saw this species at Doha Spit as we did not have the chance to visit Bubiyan Island where spectacular numbers breed. Records from Doha Spit included 3 on 3rd April, 1 on 5th April and 6 on 6th April.

 

Collared Pratincole Glareola pratincola

1 at Jahra East 3rd April (in a flock with the following species) and a single again at Jahra East 7th April with an unidentified pratincole seen at dusk at Sabah-al-Salem 6th April

 

Black-winged Pratincole Glareola nordmanni

An impressive flock of 28 flew over Jahra East, and settled briefly, on 3rd April

 

Ringed Plover Charadrius hiaticula

Common in Kuwait Bay, particularly at Doha Spit high tide roost

 

Kentish Plover Charadrius alexandrinus

Common to very common in Kuwait Bay; observed in good numbers at Sulaibhikat, Doha Spit and North Doha Nature Reserve

 

Lesser Sand Plover Charadrius mongolus

Kuwait is the easiest place to see this species in the Western Palearctic. It was commonly observed in Kuwait Bay; the best site being the high tide roost at Doha Spit. 400+ were present here 6th – 7th April

 

Grey Plover Pluvialis squatarola

Regular in Kuwait Bay; a peak of 50+ Doha Spit 3rd April

 

Red-wattled Lapwing Hoplopterus indicus

3 Abdaly Farms 5th April

 

Sanderling Calidris alba

Common in Kuwait Bay; also c.25 seen at Ras al Zour 6th April

 

Little Stint  Calidris minuta

Common in Kuwait Bay with largest numbers at Doha Spit high tide roost

 

Curlew Sandpiper Calidris ferruginea

Common in Kuwait Bay with 100s present at Doha Spit high tide roost

 

Dunlin Calidris alpina

Common in Kuwait Bay, particularly at Doha Spit high tide roost

 

Broad-billed Sandpiper Limicola falcinellus

Small numbers noted in the high tide roost at Doha Spit with c.5 6th April and c.10 7th April

 

Ruff Philomachus pugnax

Seen generally in small numbers at Jahra East and Doha Spit; peak of c.30 Jahra East 7th April

 

Common Snipe Gallinago gallinago

2 Sabah-al-Salem 6th April

 

Bar-tailed Godwit Limosa lapponica

Seen at Doha Spit on all visits; a peak of 6 6th April

 

Whimbrel Numenius phaeopus

2 at Doha Spit 3rd April and 1 there 8th April

 

Curlew Numenius arquata

Common in Kuwait Bay at sites such as Doha Spit, Sulaibhikat and Jahra East

 

Redshank Tringa totanus

Peak of 100+ in Kuwait Bay at North Doha Nature Reserve at high tide 3rd April

 

Marsh Sandpiper Tringa stagnatilis

Seen at Doha Spit on most visits with c.10 there on 6th – 7th April being the highest counts

 

Greenshank Tringa nebularia

50+ in the high tide roost at North Doha Nature Reserve 3rd April

 

Green Sandpiper Tringa ochropus

4 Jahra East 4th April and 1 South Doha Nature Reserve 6th April

 

Wood Sandpiper Tringa glareola

Presumably the same individual present on the small pool at Tulha on 4th, 7th and 8th April

 

Terek Sandpiper Xenus cinereus

Surprisingly abundant in Kuwait Bay; largest count being 600+ during high tide at Doha Spit 6th April

 

Common Sandpiper Actitis hypoleucos

Commonly seen at Jahra East and Doha Spit with 3 on the pool at Tulha 4th April and 1 there 8th April

 

Turnstone Arenaria interpres

Good numbers seen on each visit to Doha Spit

 

Great Black-headed Gull Larus ichthyaetus

A 2nd calendar year bird at Jahra East 3rd April and a 2nd calendar year bird at Doha Spit 8th April

 

Black-headed Gull Larus ridibundus

Commonly seen in Kuwait Bay, particularly at Jahra East, though less numerous than the next species

 

Slender-billed Gull Larus genei

Common to abundant in Kuwait Bay with sometimes hundreds seen at sites such as Jahra East, Sulaibhikat and Doha Spit

 

Lesser Black-backed Gull Larus fuscus fuscus

1 Green Island 4th April

 

Heuglin’s Gull Larus (fuscus) heuglini

Up to 4 birds presumably of this (sub)species seen in Kuwait Bay at sites such as Doha Spit and Jahra East

 

Caspian Gull Larus cachinnans

An adult on the sandy islet off Ras al Zour 6th April

 

Gull-billed Tern Gelochelidon nilotica

Small numbers in Kuwait Bay throughout our stay; peak of c.20 Doha Spit 5th April

 

Caspian Tern Sterna caspia

Common in Kuwait Bay with largest numbers noted at Jahra East and Doha Spit; unfortunately we witnessed one being shot by hunters at Jahra East

 

Crested Tern Sterna bergii

1 Doha Spit 3rd April, 1 Ras al Zour 6th April, 1 Doha Spit 6th April, 1 Doha Spit 7th April and 2 there on 8th April

 

Lesser Crested Tern Sterna benghalensis

Up to 20 seen at Doha Spit on most days and c.100 at Ras al Zour 6th April

 

Sandwich Tern Sterna sandvicensis

Regularly seen in Kuwait Bay at Doha Spit and Jahra East; also c.5 at Ras al Zour 6th April

 

White-cheeked Tern Sterna repressa

70+ roosted on the sandy island off Ras al Zour 6th April and 1 showed well in the high tide roost at Doha Spit 7th April

 

Bridled Tern Sterna anaethetus

At least a dozen were distantly from Ras al Zour 6th April

 

Little Tern Sterna albifrons

Seen at Sulaibhikat, Jahra East, Doha Spit and Ras al Zour in small numbers, peaking at 14 Jahra East 5th April. Despite careful scrutiny and decent views of most birds we failed to find any suitable Saunders’s Tern candidates.

 

Collared Dove Streptopelia decaocto

Seen at several sites during the week; peak being 10+ Sabah-al-Ahmad 4th April

 

Turtle Dove Streptopelia turtur

2 Al Abraq 8th April

 

Laughing Dove Streptopelia senegalensis

Common throughout; seen in good numbers at most sites

 

Namaqua Dove Oena capensis

Up to 4 present at Sulaibhikat with singles at Tulha on 7th April and Kabd 8th April

 

Ring-necked Parakeet Psittacula krameri

5 Jahra Farms 3rd April

 

Cuckoo Cuculus canorus

Ones and twos noted at several sites during the trip such as Al Abraq, Subiyah, Jahra Farms and Sulaibhikat

 

European Scops Owl Otus scops

Up to 2 roosting in the acacia scrub at Tulha – this species seen here on 4th, 7th and 8th April

 

Little Owl Athene noctua

1 Sabah Al-Ahmad 4th and 8th April

 

Common Swift Apus apus

Migrants noted in small numbers at coastal sites such as Ras al Zour and Sulaibhikat

 

Pallid Swift Apus pallidus

Commoner than the preceding species with largest numbers noted over Sulaibhikat 4th April

 

White-throated Kingfisher Halcyon smyrnensis

1 at Jahra Farms 7th April

 

European Bee-eater Merops apiaster

Seen regularly at passage sites such as Sulaibhikat, Tulha and Al Abraq. We unfortunately witnessed one being shot out of the skies by hunters at Al Abraq that had to be humanely destroyed.

 

Roller Coracias garrulus

1 Sabah Al-Ahmad 4th April and 1 Abdaly Farms 5th April

 

Hoopoe Upupa epops

1 Sulaibhikat 3rd April, 1 Ras al Zour 6th April and 1 Tulha 7th April

 

Wryneck Jynx torquilla

At least half a dozen seen during the trip at migrant sites such as Sulaibhikat, Green Island and Tulha

 

Black-crowned Finch Lark Eremopterix nigriceps

A confiding male at Sabah Al-Ahmad as it came to the nest with recently hatched chicks on 4th April

 

Dunn’s Lark Eremalauda dunni

2 adults Sabah-al-Ahmad 4th April with 6 (including 2 juveniles) there 7th April

 

Bar-tailed Lark Ammomanes cincturus

4 Sabah-al-Ahmad 4th April and 1 there 7th April

 

Hoopoe Lark Alaemon alaudipes

c.5 Sabah-al-Ahmad 4th April and 3 there 7th April

 

Bimaculated Lark Melanocorypha bimaculata

2 Sabah Al-Ahmad 4th April

 

Lesser Short-toed Lark Calandrella rufescens

1 Sabah Al-Ahmad 4th April

 

Short-toed Lark Calandrella brachydactyla

c.15 Sabah Al-Ahmad 4th and 7th April with a handful there 8th April

 
Crested Lark Galerida cristata

Common pretty much throughout the country

 

Sand Martin Riparia riparia

2 Jahra East 3rd April and 5 there 4th April

 

Crag Martin Ptyonoprogne rupestris

1 Sabah Al-Ahmad 8th April

 

Swallow Hirundo rustica

Common; seemingly large numbers roost in the reeds at Jahra East

 

Red-rumped Swallow Hirundo daurica

1 Jahra East 4th April

 

House Martin Delichon urbica

2 over Ras al Zour 6th April

 

Tawny Pipit Anthus campestris

Only seen at Sabah Al-Ahmad, with c.5 seen on most visits

 

Tree Pipit Anthus trivialis

Migrants seen in small numbers at several sites during the week – highest count c.10 Sulaibhikat 5th April

 

Red-throated Pipit Anthus cervinus

Seen at several sites throughout the week with largest numbers at Jahra East 3rd April where this species was common amongst a fall of flava wagtails

 

Yellow Wagtail Motacilla flava

A common species seen at several sites, especially at Jahra East where 100s present especially on 3rd-4th April. The predominant subspecies being beema and feldegg; with smaller numbers of thunbergi and lutea noted

 

Grey Wagtail Motacilla cinerea

1 at Sabah Al-Salem 3rd April, 2 at Tulha 4th April and 1 Ras al Zour 6th April

 

White Wagtail Motacilla alba

Small numbers seen; a peak of c.5 at Jahra East 5th April

 

White-eared Bulbul Pycnonotus leucogenys

A commonly seen species, particularly within the confines of Kuwait City at sites such as Sulaibhikat and Green Island; also seemingly common near the Iraqi border at Abdaly Farms

 

Red-vented Bulbul Pycnonotus cafer

This species seemingly only occurs on Green Island, Kuwait City and on our visits to this site we located it easily. About 4 were seen on 4th April and a couple were seen on 7th April

 

Grey Hypocolius Hypocolius ampelinus

One of the main target species – we noted a total of 3 birds during our trip, a smaller number than we had expected and much less numerous than last year in the first half of April (see the Andreas Hagerman’s trip report from April 2006). We saw a female at Sulaibhikat 3rd April and a pair at Tulha oasis, Sabah-al-Ahmad 7th April. 3 caged birds of this species at Subiyah 5th April had presumably been caught locally

 

Rufous-tailed Scrub Robin Cercotrichas galactotes

Seen in decent numbers throughout our visit at migrant sites such as Tulha, Sulaibhikat, Al Abraq and Pipeline Beach/Zour Port with 4 at Tulha on 7th April being the maximum count

 

Nightingale Luscinia megarhynchos

One seen at Jahra Farms 3rd and 7th April; probably the same individual

 

Bluethroat Luscinia svecica

1 Sulaibhikat 3rd April, 2 near Abdaly 5th April and 1 South Doha Nature Reserve 6th April

 

White-throated Robin Irania gutturalis

At least a dozen recorded during our trip; a peak of 6+ at Tulha 7th April

 

Redstart Phoenicurus phoenicurus

Common; regularly seen at migrant sites throughout the country

 

Stonechat Saxicola torquatus maurus

2 Sulaibhikat 3rd April

 

Northern Wheatear Oenanthe oenanthe

4 Sabah-al-Ahmad 4th April, 1 Ras al Zour 6th April and 1 Sabah-al-Ahmad 7th April

 

Pied Wheatear Oenanthe pleschanka

1 Sulaibhikat 4th April, 1 Ras al Zour 6th April, 1 Al Abraq 8th April and 2 Sabah-al-Ahmad 8th April

 

Eastern Black-eared Wheatear Oenanthe (hispanica) melanoleuca

1 male Sulaibhikat 3rd April

 

Rock Thrush Monticola saxatilis

3 birds seen – a male at Sulaibhikat 3rd April, a female Tulha 7th April and a male at Kabd on 8th April

 

Song Thrush Turdus philomelos

One at Subiyah 5th April

 

Graceful Prinia Prinia gracilis

Common; seen at most sites

 

Grasshopper Warbler Locustella naevia

1 at Sulaibhikat 4th April and a dead bird found at Al Abraq 8th April

 

Savi’s Warbler Locustella lusciniodes

Reeling birds heard at Jahra East and South Doha Nature Reserve

 

Moustached Warbler Acrocephalus melanopogon

1 in the reeds at Jahra East outfall 4th April

 

Sedge Warbler Acrocephalus schoenobaenus

Present in small numbers at reedbed sites such as Jahra East and South Doha Nature Reserve

 

Reed Warbler Acrocephalus scirpaceus

Noted in small numbers at reedbed sites including Jahra East and South Doha Nature Reserve

 

 Basra Reed Warbler Acrocephalus griseldis

One of the main target species during our trip with 1 Jahra East 5th April and 1 South Doha Nature Reserve 7th April. The best site to search for this species is undoubtedly the reedbed by the outfall at Jahra East – mornings seem to be best as, from our observations, this is when Acrocephalus activity peaked

 

Great Reed Warbler Acrocephalus arundinaceus

Present and vocal in reasonable numbers at reedbed sites such as Jahra East and South Doha Nature Reserve

 

Clamorous Reed Warbler Acrocephalus stentoreus

1 seen at South Doha Nature Reserve 7th April

 

Eastern Olivaceous Warbler Hippolais pallida

1 Abdaly Farms 5th April, 1 Pipeline Beach/Zour Port 6th April and 1 Kabd 8th April

 

 Icterine Warbler Hippolais icterina

2 at Tulha 7th April and 1 at Al Abraq 8th April

 

Blackcap Sylvia atricapilla

Seen in good numbers at most migrant sites

 

Barred Warbler Sylvia nisoria

2 at Al Abraq 8th April

 

Lesser Whitethroat Sylvia curruca

Seen on an almost daily basis in relatively small numbers. Despite close scrutiny we were unable to find any birds resembling the subspecies althaea (Hume’s Lesser Whitethroat)

 

Eastern Orphean Warbler Sylvia crassirostris

2 Green Island 4th April, 1 Tulha 4th April and 1 Subiyah 5th April

 

Whitethroat Sylvia communis

Ones and twos seen at sites such as Tulha, Pipeline beach and Al Abraq

 

Menetries’s Warbler Sylvia mystacea

1 Abdaly Farms 5th April and 2 Al Abraq 8th April

 

Chiffchaff Phylloscopus collybita

Common; seen regularly at migrant sites such as Tulha, Al Abraq and Sulaibhikat

 

Willow Warbler Phylloscopus trochilus

Regularly noted at several sites, though less numerous than the preceding species

 

Semi-collared Flycatcher Ficedula semitorquata

Half a dozen encountered during the trip – pair Jahra Farms 3rd April, female Tulha 7th April, female Jahra Farms 7th April and a couple at Al Abraq 8th April

 

Common Babbler Turdoides caudatus      

2 adults and 2 juveniles at Abdaly Farms on 5th April represented the first confirmed breeding of this species in Kuwait. The birds were still a tight knit family group despite the young being fully fledged

 

Isabelline Shrike Lanius isabellinus

1 female phoenicuroides Jahra East 3rd – 4th April, 1 female phoenicuroides Sulaibhikat 4th April, 2 (male and female) isabellinus Sulaibhikat 5th April, 1 male phoenicuroides Zour Port 6th April, 1 male phoenicuroides Ras al Zour 6th April and 5 (3 phoenicuroides, 1 isabellinus  and 1 ‘karelini’) Kabd 8th April

 

Long-tailed Shrike Lanius schach

The wintering bird seen on 3rd and 5th April at Sulaibhikat. It was relatively difficult to locate on each visit (and on one visit we were unable to locate it) and presumably spent a significant amount of time in trees on the other side of the reserve wall. It was last recorded by other birders on 9th April

 

Southern Grey Shrike Lanius meridionalis

Individuals of the race pallidirostris (Steppe Grey Shrike) noted at Zour Port/Pipeline Beach 6th April, Tulha 7th April and Sabah Al-Ahmad 8th April. A bird of the race aucheri was noted at Sabah Al-Ahmad 7th April.

 

Woodchat Shrike Lanius senator

Small numbers seen; 1 at Sulaibhikat 4th – 5th April, 1 Pipeline Beach/Zour Port 6th April, 1 Tulha 7th April and 1 Al Abraq 8th April

 

Masked Shrike Lanius nubicus

1 seen by the roadside to the south of Abdaly Farms 5th April

 

Common Myna Acridotheres tristis

A common species, particularly within the confines of Kuwait City. Birds seen at sites such as Jahra Farms and Green Island but also as far north in the country as Abdaly Farms

 

Bank Myna Acridotheres ginginianus

8+ at Jahra Farms 3rd April our highest count; a further 2 were seen here on 7th April. The birds nest communally in a well at this site and can be located in the surrounding agricultural settlements

 

House Sparrow Passer domesticus

Common; noted at most sites throughout the country

 

Spanish Sparrow Passer hispaniolensis

Common but localised; a thriving colony seems to be present at Tulha

 

Pale Rock Sparrow Petronia brachydactyla

1 showed well at Tulha 7th April with a further dozen birds flying through this site on the same day and c.10 at Kabd Agricultural Farm 8th April. Compared to spring 2006, this species was considerably scarcer in 2007

 

Cinereous Bunting Emberiza cineracea semenowi

One showed well at Sulaibhikat 4th April

 

Ortolan Bunting Emberiza hortulana

Regularly noted at migrant sites; seen at Jahra East, Sulaibhikat, Kabd and Tulha with 20+ at Tulha 7th April being the highest count

 

Other species recorded in a wild state, where recent escape probability is high or where self-sustaining populations are unproven: -

 

Monk Parakeet Myiopsitta monachus

1 Sulaibhikat 5th April

 

Streaked Weaver Ploceus manyar

2 males Sabah-al-Salem 3rd April

 

Black-headed Weaver Ploceus melanocephalus

2 males Sabah-al-Salem 3rd April and 1 male there 6th April

 

Chris Batty & Richard Bonser (2007)

Black Kite (form lineatus)

Short-toed Eagle

male Pallid Harrier

Crab Plovers

Crested Tern

Lesser Crested Terns and Slender-billed Gulls

male Namaqua Dove

Scops Owl

European Bee-eater

Dunn's Lark (form eremodites)

male Yellow Wagtail (form feldegg)

male Yellow Wagtail (form beema)

White-eared Bulbul

Red-vented Bulbul

Grey Hypocolius

Rufous-tailed Scrub Robin (form syriacus)

male White-throated Robin

Siberian Stonechat

Rock Thrush

Graceful Prinia

Common Babblers

Isabelline Shrikes (form phoenicuroides)

Isabelline Shrikes (form isabellinus)

male Long-tailed Shrike

Southern Grey Shrike (form pallidirostris)

Woodchat Shrike

Bank Myna

Bank Myna nest site

male Spanish Sparrow

Ortolan Bunting

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 


Cape Verde Islands 1st-15th March 2007

For those interested in Western Palearctic listing, a visit to the Cape Verde Islands is essential. Over the last few years the archipelago has become increasingly popular with tourists and with cheaper and more regular flights to the islands imminent, the pressure of tourism on the local environment and ecosystems could be severe. With this in mind, Chris Bell and I decided to spend a very enjoyable and successful fortnight on the islands before such pressures have an impact on the islands' bird populations.

Several trip reports and guides have extensively covered the logistics of birding the Cape Verde Islands, so there seems little point in repeating all this here (for useful references see below). This report is simply intended to act as an update to existing reports.

Cape Verde Travel organised our international and internal flights and accommodation for a total cost of £1,077 (including £25 for a entry visa organised by Cape Verde Travel prior to our trip). Direct flights are now available from the UK - from Manchester and Gatwick, with Thomsonfly and Astraeus.

The Cape Verde Islands are clearly gearing up for a significant increase in tourism; plenty of money seems to have been spent on the road network, internal flights and other amenities. The flight delays mentioned in previous trip reports were not a problem during our stay.

The exchange rate during our trip was 157 CV Escudos = £1.

The total cost of the trip came to £1,606. This would have been significantly cheaper with a larger team of birders.

We saw all of our target species, except for (the seemingly very rare) Cape Verde Peregrine.

Literature
The Birds of the Cape Verde Islands by Cornelis J.Hazevoet (1995).
The Birds of the Atlantic Islands by Tony Clarke (2006).

Cape Verde - A Birder's Guide to the Cape Verde Islands by Dave Sargeant.
Cape Verde Islands 24th February-7th March 2005 by
Chris Batty.
Cape Verde Islands 21/02/2002 - 06/03/2002 by Colin Dodsworth
The Cape Verde Islands: tropical birding in the Western Palearctic by Andreas Noeske and Setfan Pfützke in
Birding World Vol.7 No.4: 152-160
Birding the Cape Verde Islands by Arnoud B. van den Berg in
Birding World Vol.18 No.2: 80-81.
Cape Verde Islands
The Bradt Travel Guide.

Chris Batty, Dr Mike Brooke, Tony Clarke, Paul Donald, Stewart Hinley, Andrew Holden, Richard Klim and Tommy Frandsen provided useful information.

Itinerary

Thursday 1st March
flew Manchester to Sal arriving c2.45pm
birded around Sal airport
flew Sal to Santiago departing 7.15pm arriving 8.05pm
taxi to Hotel America (
CV Escudos 1,200)
stayed at Hotel America (Praia)

Friday 2nd March
taxi from Hotel America to Atlantic Rent-a-Car (CV Escudos 200)
hired car for three days (CV Escudos 15,000 plus CV Escudos 2,340 for extra kilometres (over 140/day allowance)
birded Praia, Liberão, Ribeira de Praia Formosa, São Jorges, Boa Entrada, Tarrafal until dusk
stayed at Hotel Praia Maria (Praia)

Saturday 3rd March
birded Ribeira de Praia Formosa, Pedra Badejo, new reservoir, Praia
stayed at Hotel Praia Maria (Praia)

Saturday 4th March
birded Sao Lorenco dos Orgaos, new reservoir, São Jorges, Cidade Vehla
stayed at Hotel Praia Maria (Praia)

Sunday 5th March
taxi to airport (CV Escudos 500)
flew Santiago to São Nicolau departing 1.10pm arriving 2pm
taxi from airport to Tarrafal (CV Escudos 2,000)
taxi to Punta de Baril (CV Escudos 500)
seawatched from Punta de Baril
taxi to Tarrafal (CV Escudos 500)
stayed at Pension Alice (Tarrafal)

Monday 6th March
chartered fishing boat to Raso departing c8am arriving c10.50pm (organised through Pension Alice)
birded Raso
picked up by charted fishing boat at c2.30pm and taken to Branco
birded Branco into night
camped on Branco

Tuesday 7th March
picked up from Branco by chartered fishing boat at c11am and arrived back at São Nicolau at c3.30pm (total cost of chartered fishing boat 550 Euros)
stayed at Pension Alice (Tarrafal)

Wednesday 8th March
aluguer to Cachaco (CV Escudos 200)
birded Faja Valley
aluguer back to Tarrafal (CV Escudos 240)
birded Tarrafal
stayed at Pension Alice (Tarrafal)

Thursday 9th March
taxi to airport (CV Escudos 2,000)
flew São Nicolau to Sal departing 2.20pm arriving 3.05pm
flew Sal to Boa Vista departing 4.35pm arriving 5.05pm
taxi to Sal Rei (CV Escudos 700)
stayed at Pousada Boa Vista (Sal Rei)

Friday 10th March
hired 4x4 to Curral Vehlo organised through Rui at Melitour (located in Sal Rei opposite Pousada Boa Vista) (CV Escudos 6,000)
birded Curral Vehlo then dropped at Rabil Lagoon
birded Rabil Lagoon
aluguer to Sal Rei (CV Escudos 200)
stayed at Pousada Boa Vista (Sal Rei)

Saturday 11th March
hired 4x4 to Bai de Gatas organised through Rui at Melitour
charted fishing boat to llhéu dos Pássaros
birded llhéu dos Pássaros into night
camped on llhéu dos Pássaros

Sunday 12th March
chartered fishing boat back to Bai de Gatas departing 7am
hired 4x4 back to Sal Rei organised through Rui at Melitour (total cost of llhéu dos Pássaros trip 155 Euros)
aluguer to Rabil Lagoon (CV Escudos 200)
birded Rabil Lagoon
aluguer back to Sal Rei (CV Escudos 200)
stayed at Pousada Boa Vista (Sal Rei)

Monday 13th March
taxi to Rabil Lagoon (CV Escudos 400)
birded Rabil Lagoon
aluguer back to Sal Rei (CV Escudos 200)
taxi from Sal Rei to airport (CV Escudos 700)
flew Boa Vista to Sal departing 6.10pm arriving 6.30pm
taxi to Santa Maria (CV Escudos 1,000)
stayed at Hotel de Luz (Santa Maria)

Tuesday 14th March
taxi to Pedra de Lume (CV Escudos 1,500)
birded Pedra de Lume
taxi to Santa Maria (10 Euros)
birded Santa Maria
stayed at Hotel de Luz (Santa Maria)

Wednesday 15th March
taxi from Santa Maria to airport (10 Euros)
flew Sal to Manchester departing 3.35pm

New site on Santiago
A new reservoir is situated south of the road between Joa Teves and Pedro Badego west of the Liberão turning. This site produced an excellent selection of species on two consecutive days, including at least two Cape Verde Purple Herons, a Squacco Heron (the sixth record for the Cape Verde Islands), Cormorant (the first record since 1924), 6 Spoonbills, 2 Snipe, 2 Green Sandpipers, Black-winged Stilt, breeding Moorhen (the first breeding record since 1969) and Cape Verde Warbler. This waterbody will surely be host to many a Cape Verde and Western Palearctic rarity in years to come.

Target birds found

Common Quail (form inopinata)

Santiago
One in Praia on rough ground behind Shell terminal.
Two in rubble above Cidade Vehla.

Helmeted Guineafowl

Santiago
c10 Ribeira de Praia Formosa at top of ridge c2km out of town after junction before sharp righthand bend.

São Nicolau
c20 in Faja Valley along trail c2km north of Cachaco village (see Sergeant p23).

Fea's Petrel


Raso
c6 from Tarrafal to Raso crossing.

Cape Verde Shearwater


Santiago
One off Cidade Vehla.

São Nicolau
c50 lingered distantly off Punta da Barril during evening seawatch.

Raso
Many from boat to and from Raso/Branco, giving exceptional views close to boat.

Branco
Birds returned to colony from 7.10pm, just after dusk. Many where heard calling and three were observed in nest.

Cape Verde Little Shearwater


Santiago
We searched on two consecutive nights in the valley running southeast from São Domingos but failed to see or hear any shearwaters (see Batty, 2005).

Branco
Birds began arriving at colony from 7.45pm. Appeared to be numerous, with many heard singing and several seen in flight above scree slops during evening.

White-faced Storm-petrel
(form eadesi)

Branco
Although a small pale seabird that flew along the peninsula at the southeast side of the island at c11.30pm was most likely this species, there were no confirmed sightings by midnight. We spoke to a seabird researcher who was staying on São Nicolau, who suggested that the full moon may have discouraged the petrels from returning to the colony.

llhéu dos Pássaros
The first birds returned to the colony just before 8pm and excellent views were obtained both in flight and on the ground. Numbers were difficult to estimate, but birds were almost constantly on view between 8pm-10.30pm. After then the main period of activity appeared to be over, but singles were still coming and going at 11pm. Keep to the rocky sides of the islet to avoid destroying the burrows in the centre.

It is worth being aware of which island lhéu dos Pássaros is before you set off (it is the closest island to the shore at Bai de Gatas). The fishermen initially began heading to llhéu de Baluarte, which has been a problem on previous trips to lhéu dos Pássaros.

Madeiran Storm-petrel

Branco
Many returned to the colony on the scree slopes by 9pm.

Red-billed Tropicbird
(form mesonauta)

Santiago
20+ were around the cliffs east of the Shell terminal in Praia during the evening.

Raso
A few seen from Tarrafal to Raso crossing and several seen around the colony on Raso.

Boa Vista
c5 over llhéu de Curral Velho.

Brown Booby
(form leucogaster)

São Nicolau
Singles off Tarrafal and a few off Punta de Barril.

Raso
Many seen around colony.

Branco
A few seen offshore.

Boa Vista
Seen off llhéu dos Pássaros and at colony on llhéu de Curral Velho.

Magnificent Frigatebird


Boa Vista
A female was observed over the east side of llhéu de Curral Velho and circled high between here and Curral Vehlo then drifted west.

Bourne's Heron

Santiago
Two juveniles were in the mahogany tree at Liberão. The birds apparently fledged on 7th March, five days after we visited the site.
At least two were at the new reservoir on two consecutive days. This site may well prove to be a regular stake out for this species in the future.

Cape Verde Buzzard

Santiago
Two were seen distantly over the northeastern slopes of Pico do Antonia viewed from above the school west of São Jorges dos Orgãos.

Alexander's Kestrel

Common and widespread on Sal, Santiago and Boa Vista.

Neglected Kestrel

São Nicolau
Common and widespread.

Cream-coloured Courser
(form exsul)

Boa Vista
Seen along route between Sal Rei and Curral Velho.

Cape Verde Barn Owl


Santiago
One was seen at dusk at the regular site south of Tarrafal over farmland by the (former?) sewage works. From the Shell garage in Tarrafal head south for c1km then take a right turn along the only obvious wide stone road and park by the sewage works fence. It is best to access south from Tarrafal as there are several confusing diversions as you enter the town from the south.
Another Barn Owl was heard but not seen in the valley running southeast from São Domingos from the layby on the south side of the road 700m west of the junction north of Riberia Chiquerio.

Cape Verde Swift

Widepread on Santiago and São Nicolau.

Grey-headed Kingfisher
(form acteon)

Santiago
Common and widespread in vegetated areas in the interior.

Black-crowned Finch Lark
(form nigriceps)

Santiago
A male was on rubble above Cidade Vehla.

Boa Vista
Common and widespread.

Bar-tailed Desert Lark
(form cinctura)

Boa Vista
Common and widespread.

Greater Hoopoe Lark (form boavistae)

Boa Vista
Widespread.

Raso Lark

Raso
c12 were seen within a short distance of the landing area.

Cape Verde Warbler


Santiago
Seen at Boa Entrada; west of São Jorges and the new reservoir.

Brown-necked Raven

Common and widespread on Santiago, São Nicolau, Raso and Boa Vista.

Iago Sparrow

Common and widespread on Sal, Santiago, São Nicolau, Raso and Boa Vista.

Common Waxbill


Santiago
Common and widespread.

Other species

Black Heron

Raso
One appeared to fly in off the sea on Raso viewed from the landing area, then continued east along the coast. Excellent views were obtained in flight, but a subsequent search along the coastline east of the landing area failed to relocate the bird. This is the third record for the Western Palearctic and second for the Cape Verde Islands following one on llhéu de Curral Velho, Boa Vista from 6th February to 7th March 1985.

Western Reef Egret

Boa Vista
A dark morph was at Rabil Lagoon (there have been over 20 previous records).

All statuses above per Clarke, 2006 (apart from for Squacco Heron).

Target birds missed

Cape Verde Peregrine

Given the vast areas of suitable habitat and the seemingly endless supply of prey it seems bizarre that this is such a rare, difficult-to-find resident on the islands.

Santiago
We failed to locate any at São Jorges, Sao Lorenco dos Orgaos, Formosa, Cidade Vehla and Praia, despite many lengthy vigils.

São Nicolau
We failed to locate any at Tarrafal or around the Faja Valley.

Complete trip list
Common Quail Coturnix coturnix inopinata
Helmeted Guineafowl Numida meleagris
Fea's Petrel Pterodroma feae feae
Cape Verde Shearwater Calonectris edwardsii
Cape Verde Little Shearwater Puffinus boydi
White-faced Storm-petrel Pelagodroma marina eadesi
Madeiran Storm-petrel Oceanodroma castro
Red-billed Tropicbird Phaethon authereus mesonauta
Brown Booby Sula leucogaster leucogaster
Great Cormorant Phalacrocorax carbo lucidus
Magnificent Frigatebird Fregata magnificens
Squacco Heron Ardeola ralloides
Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis ibis
Black Heron Egretta ardesiaca
Western Reef Egret Egretta gularis
Little Egret Egretta garzetta garzetta
Grey Heron Ardea cinerea
Bourne's Heron Ardea bournei
Eurasian Spoonbill Platalea leucorodia
Cape Verde Buzzard Buteo bannermani
Osprey Pandion haliaetus
Alexander's Kestrel Falco alexandri
Neglected Kestrel Falco neglectus
Moorhen Gallinula chloropus
Black-winged Stilt Himantopus himantopus himantopus
Cream-colored Courser Cursorius cursor exsul
Common Ringed Plover Charadrius hiaticula
Kentish Plover Charadrius alexandrinus alexandrinus
Grey Plover Pluvialis squatarola
Sanderling Calidris alba
Little Stint Calidris minuta
Curlew Sandpiper Calidris ferruginea
Dunlin Calidris alpina
Common Snipe Gallinago gallinago
Bar-tailed Godwit Limosa lapponica
Whimbrel Numenius phaeopus phaeopus
Common Redshank Tringa totanus
Common Greenshank Tringa nebularia
Green Sandpiper Tringa ochropus
Common Sandpiper Actitis hypoleucos
Ruddy Turnstone Arenaria interpres
Rock Dove Columba livia
Cape Verde Barn Owl Tyto detorta
Cape Verde Swift Apus alexandri
Grey-headed Kingfisher Halcyon leucocephala acteon
Black-crowned Finch Lark Eremopterix nigriceps nigriceps
Bar-tailed Desert Lark Ammomanes cinctura cinctura
Greater Hoopoe Lark Alaemon alaudipes boavistae
Raso Lark Alauda razae
Barn Swallow Hirundo rustica
Cape Verde Warbler Acrocephalus brevipennis
Spectacled Warbler Sylvia conspicillata orbitalis
Blackcap Sylvia atricapilla gularis
Brown-necked Raven Corvus ruficollis ruficollis
Spanish Sparrow Passer hispaniolensis hispaniolensis
Iago Sparrow Passer iagoensis
Common Waxbill Estrilda astrild jagoensis

Stuart Piner April 2007

Cape Verde Shearwater

adult Red-billed Tropicbird (form mesonauta)

Brown Booby (form leucogaster)

Squacco Heron

juvenile Bourne's Heron

Alexander's Kestrel

Cape Verde Swift

Grey-headed Kingfisher (form acteon)

female Black-crowned Finch Lark (form nigriceps)

Bar-tailed Desert Lark (form cinctura)

Greater Hoopoe Lark (form boavistae)

Raso Lark

Cape Verde Warbler

male Spectacled Warbler (form orbitalis)

male Blackcap (form gularis)

male Spanish Sparrow

male Iago Sparrow

all images taken with a Sony Cyber-shot DSC-N1 or Sony Cyber-shot DSC-W30 mounted to a Leica APO77 telescope with a Leica Digiscoping Adapter and 20x or 30x wide angle eyepieces


southern France and northern Spain 1st-10th August 2006

My previous trips to France and Spain had all been in mid-winter, so I decided to organise a summer trip, primarily focusing on The Pyrenees. Although August is by no means the best time of year to visit the area, the trip offered an excellent opportunity to combine a holiday with my girlfriend and the chance of connecting with some new Western Palearctic birds.

We flew from Blackpool to Girona with Ryanair, at a combined cost of £225, then hired a Seat Ibiza from Solmar through Carjet for c£161, including a tank of diesel.

Literature
’A Birdwatching Guide to The Pyrenees’ by Jacquie Crozier
Birding World 18 (12) 517-526 – ‘Sacred Ibis: a new invasive species in Europe’ by Pierre Yésou and Philippe Clergeau
Finding Birds in North Spain’ by Dave Gosney
’Finding Birds in Southern France’ by Dave Gosney
’Where to watch birds in France’ by Philippe J. Dubois
’Where to watch birds in North & East Spain’ Michael Rebane

Trip reports by Martin Birch,
Richard Bonser, Nick Bray and Viv Stratton, Phil Bristow, Rhion Pritchard, Keith Shepherd and James Walsh also provided useful information. Chris Batty, Peter Gluth, Tom Lowe and Andrew Raine provided information on the area.

Itinerary
Tuesday 1st August: Flew from Blackpool to Girona arriving at 11.10pm. Drove into France and slept in car just outside Gruissan, southeast of Narbonne.

Wednesday 2nd August: Etang-de-Campignol, Etang de Vendre, then drove to Termignon and stayed at Hotel Relais Des Deux Cols in Lanslebourg Mont Cenis.

Thursday 3rd August: Morning in Termignon then drove to Nice. Stayed at Hotel Saint Gothard, Rue Pagannini.

Friday 4th August: Nice. Stayed at Hotel Saint Gothard, Rue Pagannini.

Saturday 5th August: Drove to Eaux Bonnes and slept at Hotel De La Poste.

Sunday 6th August: Forêt de’Isseaux, Candanchu, Jaca. Stayed at Hotel Ramiro 1.

Monday 7th August: Hecho Valley. Camped at Camping Victoria.

Tuesday 8th August: San Juan de la Pena, Hecho Valley. Camped at Camping Ain Jaca

Wednesday 9th August: Candanchu, drove to Barcelona. Stayed Hotel Auto Hogar, Avenida Paralel.

Thursday 10th August: Barcelona, then drove to Girona. Flew from Girona to Blackpool.


Key Sites

É
tang de Campignol
From Narbonne take the D32 southeast towards Gruissan. Head southwest along the narrow streets of the small town of Gruissan, keeping the Étang de Gruissan to your right. At the junction with D232, just south of the town, head west for c2km and park by the LPO birdwatching centre, immediately after the road crosses the second canal. Walk south along the east side of the canal until you reach the shore of the Étang de Campignol. See ‘Where to Watch Birds in France’ page 172.

Two Sacred Ibis where seen in flight over the étang soon after dawn and the surrounding vegetation hosted three Melodious Warblers and Red-backed Shrike. I failed to locate any Moustached Warblers, but a strong breeze hampered the search for this species.

Étang de Bages-et-Sigean
I had intended to visit this site, situated to the south-southeast of Narbonne and just north of Sigean, to hopefully see the breeding colony of Sacred Ibis as described in Birding World 18 (12) 517-526. The colony should be easy to locate at the site, but after seeing this species at Étang de Campignol, I decided not to visit.

Étang de Vendres
Take the D64 from Béziers, crossing the A9 at exit 36, and follow signs for the village of Vendres. Continue through the village then take a track leading to the eastern side of the lagoon, which apparently also leads to the remains of the ‘Temple of Venus’. See ‘Where to Watch Birds in France’ page 181.

A fine selection of Mediterranean species where seen. However, the wind strength once again hampered chances of connecting with reedbed species.

Termignon
Termignon is accessed by taking the N6 northeast from Modane, which is situated to the east-northeast of Grenoble. On the hairpin bend just north of the small village of Termignon take a track north signed ‘Parc National de la Vanoise’. Continue along the steep, narrow roads until you eventually reach an obvious parking area (several camper vans were parked there overnight) with a ‘No entry’ sign just beyond it. This area might be called ‘Bellecombe’ on some maps. Turn around and head back along the road for c3.5km and park in the much smaller parking area on your left. It is best to travel ‘too far’ to the large car park, as spotting the first, smaller parking area is very difficult without initially finding your bearings.
From here walk west along the obvious mountain footpath. See ‘Swiss, Italian & French Alps – 4th-8th June 2004’ but Phil Bristow et al.

In 2004 Phil Bristow et al. located a pair of Rock Partridge after walking west along the footpath for 20 minutes. Unfortunately, during the morning I spent at the site, low cloud meant that visibility was down to only c10ft, making searching futile. I also walked east for c2km from the upper, ‘Bellecombe’ car park, checking excellent looking habitat, but there was no sign nor sound of the species from dawn-2pm. Alpine Chough, Water Pipit, Ring Ouzel and Black Redstart were seen.

Frustratingly, Nutcrackers could be heard calling from all directions, but due to the poor visibility, could not be seen. Fortunately I managed to gain good views of four c2km south of the lower car park, during a brief period when the cloud lifted.

Nice
There is a self-sustaining population of Fischer's Lovebird near Nice; I connected with the species at two sites to the east of the city.

Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat: Head east out of Nice on the N98 and after c4km take the D25 south along the peninsula and follow signs for the port. You eventually come to a small car park on the waters edge. Drive through this car park then north along a narrow street (keeping the port to your right) towards another car park by a small beach. Several Fischer’s and Masked Lovebirds were present in the palms and on the buildings around the car park. In 2005 Tom Lowe also saw Indian Silverbill here.

Beaulieu-sur-Mer: Beaulieu-sur-Mer is situated just northeast of Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat, at the head of the peninsula. Head east along the N98 to a car park opposite a church by La Reserve restaurant. Several Fischer’s and Masked Lovebirds were present behind the church in the gardens. In 2005 Tom Lowe also saw Peach-faced Lovebird at this site.

I am unsure about the taxonomic status of Masked and Fischer’s Lovebirds.

Forêt de’Isseaux
From Oloron-Ste-Marie head south along the N134 then follow signs for Lourdios. In Lourdios take the right turn signposted ‘Forêt d’Issaux’, ‘Spie Trindel’ and ‘Balades a Cheval’ (see photo). Single Black Woodpeckers were seen 3.9km and 6.6km from this junction, but I failed to locate any White-backed Woodpeckers. I also failed to locate any White-backed Woodpeckers at the site described in ’Finding Birds in Southern France’ by Dave Gosney (page 6, site 1), but an early morning visit may have been better for this species.

Candanchu
This small ski village on the Spanish/French border is signposted off the main road just south of the Col du Somport. I took the ski lift up into the mountains tops on two separate occasions, costing
8 per person each time. Outside the ski season the lift only operates in August.
I gained fantastic views of a Wallcreeper on the ground and low rocks c200yds past the small café, keeping along the right hand track.  At least fifteen White-winged Snow Finches were nearby and 10 Citril Finches were on the slope just below the top of the ski lift. Alpine Chough, Rock Thrush, Black Redstart and Water Pipit were also noted.

Jaca
Nesting Rock Sparrows showed well at the Citadel.

Hecho Valley
Two days were spent in the Hecho Valley and various sites were visited. The valley can be accessed north off the N240 in the village of Puente la Reina, to the west of Jaca.
The refuge of Garbardito, east of the road, just north of the villages of Hecho and Siresa failed to produced Wallcreeper or Citril Finch. However, Peter Gluth had excellent views of the latter species by the drinking trough near the mountain refuge, by the lower car park in June 2006. Several trip reports, such as that by James Walsh, give excellent directions to the ‘Wallcreeper cliff’.
The ‘picnic’ area by the river at Selva de Oza produced stunning views of an adult
Lammergeier. However, this was surprisingly the only Lammergeier I saw during my time in the Hecho Valley, despite reasonably extensive searching.
The Hecho Valley also produced
Bonelli’s, Booted and Short-toed Eagles.

San Juan
de la Pena
The site is well signposted south off the N240 c11km west of Jaca. See
Finding Birds in North Spain’ by Dave Gosney (pages 6-7).

A
Black Woodpecker was observed feeding a fledged juvenile in woodland c50yds along the track to the communications tower (Gosney, page 6), immediately west of the monastery (there is no vehicular access along this track, park in the Monastery car park).

Barcelona
Monk Parakeets were abundant in most vegetated areas, especially in the Parc de la Ciutadella. At least one other parrot sp was also seen, but not well enough to identify.

Complete trip list
Great Crested Grebe Podiceps cristatus cristatus
Great Cormorant Phalacrocorax carbo sinensis
Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis ibis
Grey Heron Ardea cinerea cinerea
Purple Heron Ardea purpurea purpurea
White Stork Ciconia ciconia ciconia
Sacred Ibis Threskiornis aethiopicus
Greater Flamingo Phoenicopterus roseus
Gadwall Anas strepera strepera
Mallard Anas platyrhynchos platyrhynchos
Eurasian Honey Buzzard Pernis apivorus
Black Kite Milvus migrans migrans
Red Kite Milvus milvus milvus
Lammergeier Gypaetus barbatus aureus
Egyptian Vulture Neophron percnopterus percnopterus
Eurasian Griffon Vulture Gyps fulvus fulvus
Short-toed Eagle Circaetus gallicus
Marsh Harrier Circus aeruginosus aeruginosus
Montagu's Harrier Circus pygargus
Eurasian Sparrowhawk Accipiter nisus nisus
Common Buzzard Buteo buteo buteo
Booted Eagle Aquila pennata
Bonelli's Eagle Aquila fasciata fasciata
Common Kestrel Falco tinnunculus tinnunculus
Peregrine Falcon Falco peregrinus peregrinus
Coot Fulica atra atra
Black-winged Stilt Himantopus himantopus himantopus
Marsh Sandpiper Tringa stagnatilis
Common Sandpiper Actitis hypoleucos
Yellow-legged Gull Larus michahellis michahellis
Little Tern Sternula albifrons albifrons
Common Tern Sterna hirundo hirundo
Rock Dove Columba livia livia
Stock Dove Columba oenas oenas
Woodpigeon Columba palumbus palumbus
Collared Dove Streptopelia dacaocto dacaocto
Fischer's Lovebird Agapornis fischeri
Monk Parakeet Myiopsitta monachus
Common Swift Apus apus apus
Pallid Swift Apus pallidus brehmorum
Alpine Swift Apus melba melba
Common Kingfisher Alcedo atthis ispida
European Bee-eater Merops apiaster
Hoopoe Upupa epops epops
Iberian Green Woodpecker Picus sharpie
Black Woodpecker Dryocopus martius martius
Great Spotted Woodpecker Dendrocopos major hispanus and pinetorum
Crested Lark Galerida cristata cristata
Sand Martin Riparia riparia riparia
Crag Martin Ptyonoprogne rupestris
Barn Swallow Hirundo rustica rustica
House Martin Delichon urbicum urbicum
Tree Pipit Anthus trivialis trivialis
Water Pipit Anthus spinoletta spinoletta
Yellow Wagtail Motacilla flava flava
Grey Wagtail Motacilla cinerea cinerea
White Wagtail, Motacilla alba alba
Dipper Cinclus cinclus cinclus
Wren Troglodytes troglodytes troglodytes
Dunnock Prunella modularis mabbotti
European Robin Erithacus rubecula rubecula
Black Redstart Phoenicurus ochruros gibraltariensis
Western Stonechat Saxicola torquata rubicola
Northern Wheatear Oenanthe oenanthe oenanthe
Rock Thrush Monticola saxatillis
Ring Ouzel Turdus torquatus alpestris
Common Blackbird Turdus merula merula
Song Thrush Turdus philomelos clarkei
Mistle Thrush Turdus viscivorus viscivorus
Cetti's Warbler Cettia cetti cetti
Fan-tailed Warbler Cisticola juncidis juncidis
Western Reed Warbler Acrocephalus scirpaceus scirpaceus
Melodious Warbler Hippolais polyglotta
Garden Warbler Sylvia borin borin
Blackcap Sylvia atricapilla atricapilla
Common Chiffchaff Phylloscopus collybita collybita
Willow Warbler Phylloscopus trochilus trochilus
Goldcrest Regulus regulus regulus
Firecrest Regulus ignicapilla ignicapilla
Spotted Flycatcher Muscicapa striata striata
Pied Flycatcher Ficedula hypoleuca
Long-tailed Tit Aegithalos caudatus taiti
Blue Tit Cyanistes caeruleus caeruleus
Great Tit Parus major major
Crested Tit Lophophanes cristatus abadiei/mitratus
Coal Tit Periparus ater abietum
Nuthatch Sitta europaea caesia
Wallcreeper Tichodroma muraria muraria
Short-toed Treecreeper Certhia brachydactyla megarhyncha/brachydactyla
Eurasian Golden Oriole Oriolus oriolus oriolus
Red-backed Shrike Lanius collurio collurio
Woodchat Shrike Lanius senator senator
Eurasian Jay Garrulus glandarius glandarius
Black-billed Magpie Pica pica pica/melanotos
Spotted Nutcracker Nucifraga caryocatactes caryocatactes
Alpine Chough Pyrrhocorax graculus graculus
Red-billed Chough Pyrrhocorax pyrrhocorax erythrorhamphos
Western Jackdaw Corvus monedula permologus
Carrion Crow Corvus corone corone
Common Raven Corvus corax corax
Common Starling Sturnus vulgaris vulgaris
House Sparrow Passer domesticus domesticus/balearoibericus
Eurasian Tree Sparrow Passer montanus montanus
Rock Sparrow Petronia petronia petronia
White-winged Snowfinch Montifringilla nivalis nivalis
Chaffinch Fringilla coelebs coelebs
European Serin Serinus serinus
Citril Finch Serinus citronella
Greenfinch Chloris chloris aurantiiventris
Goldfinch Carduelis carduelis parva
Linnet Carduelis cannabina cannabina
Yellowhammer Emberiza citronella citrinella
Rock Bunting Emberiza cia cia
Western Reed Bunting Emberiza schoeniclus schoeniclus/witherbyi
Corn Bunting Emberiza calandra calandra


Stuart Piner September 2006

adult Yellow-legged Gull

Fischer's and Masked Lovebirds

Fischer's Lovebird

Monk Parakeet

European Bee-eater

Forêt de’Isseaux sign in Lourdios


sign at Selva de Oza in Hencho Valley where Lammergeier was seen

Wallcreeper

Red-backed Shrike

White-winged Snow Finch

all images taken by Stuart Piner & Josephine Gluth with a Sony Cyber-shot DSC-N1 or Sony Cyber-shot DSC-W30 mounted to a Leica APO77 telescope with a Leica Digiscoping Adapter and 20x or 30x wide angle eyepieces


Fuerteventura - 15th-23rd February 2006

This trip was a mixture of birding and family sightseeing. Given restirictions on time in the field the target was to see Fuerteventura Stonechat, Houbara Bustard and a minimum of 50 species whilst accepting a few island specialities might be missed. This was achieved, and the finding of a Spanish national rarity added greatly to the bonhomie of an already good week.

Roads were generally quiet and well maintained. The road south of Betancuria is best avoided by those of a nervous disposition. Some of the tracks are very driveable, particularly the one to the dam at Embalse de los Molinos.

Day 1
Arriving early afternoon we transferred from the airport to our apartment in Corralejo. The journey was interrupted by a return to the airport so there was a lot of opportunity to look for some initial entries on the list. Other than Yellow-legged Gulls and some potential Lesser Black-backed Gulls among them only a Kestrel was positively identified.
After unpacking a wander into Corralejo produced several Spanish Sparrows at the apartment and many more en route to the harbour. Turnstones were conspicuous in the harbour itself, later in the trip we would see a local feeding them with fish he was stripping at a table on the rocks.
Observations from the balcony of the apartment in the evening produced a Chiffchaff or two, a female Blackcap and a presumed Berthelot’s Pipit on rough ground across the road. Collared Doves, Feral Pigeons and Linnets were also added to the list before close of play.

Day 2
A short boat trip to the former volcanic island of Los Lobos, just of Corralejo. This was primarily for the scenery, and very spectacular it is in an eerie kind of way. The bird interest was generally rather limited save for Berthelot’s Pipits at regular intervals. By half way round the six mile circuit of the island these had only been augmented by a couple of Ravens, another Turnstone, a Whimbrel, a Redshank and a mixed group of Yellow-legged Gulls and Lesser Black-backed Gulls.
The second half of the walk from the lighthouse at the north end back to the harbour did improve the trip list somewhat with a couple of Southern Grey Shrikes (one memorably carrying a lizard victim) and a Buzzard of the Canary Islands race which drifted over south west.
Back in Corralejo Little Egret and Common Sandpiper were added to the list, both were to be seen at most coastal sites visited during the week.

Day 3
With a newly received hire car the first stop of the day was the Embalse de las Molinos. Or it would have been if we hadn’t set off on the wrong track on arrival. However this did no harm as splendid views of about 10 Trumpeter Finches proved to be the best of the whole trip.
On arriving at the Embalse itself (having successfully evaded a couple of camels on the road) things finally began to pick up pace with a couple of Fuerteventura Stonechats seen at very close range. Also seen at this great site were nine Ruddy Shelducks, six Greenshank, Dunlin, Green Sandpiper as well as egrets and over 60 Coot. New birds for the trip also included Hoopoes, and a White Wagtails which was a species not seen anywhere else during the week.
Moving onto Betancuria a local race (degener) African Blue Tit was seen well in the grounds of the craft museum. Buzzards circled and the first Plain Tiger butterfly of the trip was seen. Moving on to Las Penitas the instructions in Clarke and Collins were not understood so the reservoir edge was not reached, but the walk added Song Thrush (only one of the trip) and then Spectacled Warbler to the birds seen. The first Barbary Ground Squirrels were seen, these proved to be regular even in some of the tourist resorts.

Day 4
A long drive down to the La Pared area to work the dunes before taking the kids to the zoo in the afternoon. On the way in to Costa Calma half a dozen Pallid Swifts were welcome. Walking out on to the dunes was testing the patience of the travel party, with only the ubiquitous Lesser Short-toed Larks to show for it. Proceedings were about to be called to a close when a magnificent Houbara Bustard flew past at point blank range. On the way back to the car another was seen at reasonable range feeding for several minutes before melting into the vegetation. Cracking.
Lunch on the outskirts of the town produced the only Goldfinch of the trip and more great views of Plain Tiger butterflies.
Heading on to the Oasis Park zoo at La Lajita the bins were kept round my neck just in case. Half way between the meerkats and the otter tank a strangely familiar yet utterly out of place ‘swee’ call was heard. Not knowing quite what to expect I was relieved to see the bird in question pop up obligingly in full view barely twenty feet away. Raising my bins I was confronted with a Yellow-browed Warbler! Fumbling around for my video camera I tried to get some footage, eventually ending up with record shots of the eye stripe and wingbars between vegetation and great recording of the call.
Shortly after this undoubted highlight another new bird for the trip was seen in the form of a Grey Wagtail frequenting the otter pool in the zoo. This was the only one seen on the whole trip. Less satisfying but going on the list were Monk Parakeets.
Returning home we went via Catalina Garcia lake. The Ring-necked Duck and Lesser Scaup seen here recently were unfortunately not on view. However some compensation was provided by three Spoonbills, two Black-tailed Godwits, a Ruddy Shelduck and a few other waders.

Day 5
Tried unsuccessfully to increase the desert specialities seen by driving some tracks off El Cotillo, which eventually triumphed over the hire car. Walking from the resort to El Cotillo did produce several wader species including Ringed and Grey Plovers. Best of all though were the 10 Kentish Plovers, including a group of eight near the lighthouse.
The afternoon was spent largely in Catalina de Fuste, largely doing tourist things. A check of the saltpans to the south of the resort produced a few waders but nothing new. A small diversion to the Barranco de Torre did however produce a welcome Plain Swift.
Stopping to swim in the sea at the Corralejo dunes produced a couple of Sanderling, again the only ones of the trip.

Day 6
Last day with a car. Given the chance to do some birding in the morning I elected to go to the Embalse rather than scour for desert species with no guarantee of success. This produced a couple of Grey Herons and good views of a Buzzard as well as no fewer than 15 Ruddy Shelducks. Returning from the far end I spotted a female duck not seen on the way down, expecting perhaps a Teal I was surprised to see it was a Shoveler.
Returning to Las Penitas to crack the access to the reservoir edge was successful, and produced the only Sardinian Warblers seen during the week. Blue Tits and Spectacled Warblers were also plentiful in this area.

Day 7
A whistle stop tour of Lanzarote. Following the purest group of Rock Doves I have ever seen at the camel area on the ‘fire mountain’ the 50th species of the trip was notched up with a Swallow flying over the caves in the north of the island where the unique blind albino crabs live. That looked like it for a great holiday until a couple of Cory’s Shearwaters were seen in the gloom from the ferry back to Fuerteventura.

Day 8
Packing and home. No new species.


Species List

Cory’s Shearwater
Two seen from the Lanzarote-Fuerteventura ferry crossing.

Little Egret
Widespread. Up to four birds seen together at locations including Corralejo (especially north of the harbour), Embalse de los Molinos, Catalina Garcia, the shoreline pool at Los Molinos, El Cotillo shore etc.

Grey Heron
At least two at Embalse de los Molinos on second visit, one (of these?) over Las Penitas reservoir the same day.

Spoonbill
Three together at Catalina Garcia, including a Darvic ringed bird.

Ruddy Shelduck
Up to 15 at Embalse do los Molinos, one at Catalina Garcia.

Shoveler
Female at Embalse de los Molinos on one visit.

Buzzard
Local race birds seen over Los Lobos, Betancuria, Las Penitas and at the Embalse de los Molinos.

Kestrel
Local race birds widespread on Fuerteventura, and also seen at several sites on Lanzarote.

Barbary Partridge
One at Embalse do los Molinos.

Coot
Over 60 at Embalse de los Molinos, c16 at Catalina Garcia and two at Las Penitas.

Houbara Bustard
Two seen at La Pared dunes on the outskirts of Costa Calma.

Little Ringed Plover
Three at Catalina Garcia and one at Embalse do los Molinos.

Ringed Plover
Four on El Cotillo shore.

Kentish Plover
Ten in the El Cotillo area, including eight together near the lighthouse by the road.

Grey Plover
Two on El Cotillo shore.

Sanderling
Two on the beach at Corralejo dunes.

Turnstone
Up to 25 at El Corralejo. Also seen at El Cotillo and the saltpans south of Catalina de Fuste.

Dunlin
Seen at Corralejo harbour, the saltpans south of Catalina de Fuste and Embalse de los Molinos.

Green Sandpiper
One at Embalse de los Molinos.

Common Sandpiper
Up to two birds seen at Corralejo harbour, El Cotillo shore, Los Molinos shore and the saltpans south of Catalina de Fuste.

Redshank
Three at the saltpans south of Catalina de Fuste, one on Los Lobos.

Greenshank
Up to six at Embalse de los Molinos and three at Catalina Garcia.

Black-tailed Godwit
Two at Catalina Garcia.

Whimbrel
Up to six north of Corralejo harbour, three at El Cotillo and one on Los Lobos.

Yellow-legged Gull
Widespread.

Lesser Black-backed Gull
Several seen for certain in gull flocks on Los Lobos.

Rock Dove
Particularly pure looking flocks at Las Penitas, and particularly on the fire mountains on Lanzarote.

Feral Pigeon
Widespread.

Collared Dove
Common and widespread.

Turtle Dove
One heard near Tefia.

Pallid Swift
Six birds over Costa Calma.

Plain Swift
One in the Barranco de la Torre.

Hoopoe
Generally widespread other than in the Corralejo area, not seen on Los Lobos.

Monk Parakeet
Seen at La Lajita.

Lesser Short-toed Lark
Seen in large numbers at La Pared, smaller numbers off tracks at El Cotillo.

Swallow
One seen at Jameos del Agua, Lanzarote.

Berthelot’s Pipit
Widespread.

White Wagtail
Seen on both visits to Embalse de los Molinos (up to two birds).

Grey Wagtail
One feeding round the otter tank at Oasis Park zoo, Las Lajitas.

Fuerteventura Stonechat
Three seen at Embalse de los Molinos.

Song Thrush
One in cultivations at Vega de Rio Palmas.

Blackcap
Seen from apartment in Corralejo, a number singing at Costa Calma.

Spectacled Warbler
Most seen at Las Penitas. Small numbers elsewhere.

Chiffchaff
Up to two seen around the apartment in Corralejo.

Yellow-browed Warbler
One in the grounds of Oasis Park zoo, La Lajita.

African Blue Tit
Local race birds seen at Betancuria and heard at Las Penitas.

Southern Grey Shrike
Widespread. Also seen on Los Lobos and Lanzarote.

Raven
Widespread. Also seen on Los Lobos and Lanzarote.

Spanish Sparrow
Common at virtually all settlements on Fuerteventura and Lanzarote.

Linnet
Regular over apartment in Corralejo, several seen at El Cotillo and smaller numbers elsewhere.

Goldfinch
One over Costa Calma.

Trumpeter Finch
Seen at several sites, easiest at Embalse de los Molinos and between here and Los Molinos.

The following additional species were seen by two other groups visiting the island in February, to give an indication of the variety of species present:

Teal
Ring-necked Duck
Lesser Scaup
Egyptian Vulture
Booted Eagle (barely annual)
Barbary Falcon
Moorhen
Cream-coloured Courser
Lapwing
Golden Plover
Spotted Redshank
Curlew (probable heard by myself at Las Penitas)
Sandwich Tern
Black-bellied Sandgrouse
Little Swift
Fieldfare
Hawfinch (no previous records)

Stripping out the exceptional records from each of the three trips (Yellow-browed Warbler, Booted Eagle and Hawfinch and the long-staying vagrant American ducks) a total of about 60 would seem a reasonable February target for those able to bird the best sites without distraction.

In terms of other wildlife interest butterflies included Plain Tiger and Greenish Black-Tip. Mammals seen were the introduced Barbary Ground Squirrels, several Rabbits and Algerian Hedgehogs (road casualties only). A number of dragonflies were seen, but other then Blue-tailed Damselfly not seen well enough to name.

Stephen Dunstan March 2006


Morocco 2nd-10th April 2005

After gaining inspiration from several trip reports backed with a long harboured ambition to visit, I decided to journey to Morocco with
Alan Clewes, Andy Clifton and Stuart Piner in early April 2005.

Our simple aim of this trip was to see as much as we could in a little over a week and really aim to locate and appreciate several ‘target’ species that can be found in this extremely diverse country. We flew to Casablanca and performed a circular route - traveling as far north as Merdja Zerga, then traversing the Middle Atlas to reach the extreme south-east of the country at Erfoud and then heading west towards Agadir before heading north again to Casablanca.

Logistics

Due to the restrictions on dates (due to work commitments for some of us), we were forced to travel using the comparatively expensive
British Airways option (£386 per person including taxes) in order to optimize our time in Morocco. Additionally, our travel within the Easter holidays further ensured our inflated air price compared to other times of year or carrier (for example return flights by Airtours from Manchester to Agadir were available for as little as £199 including taxes in March 2004 – for further details see Chris Batty’s trip report).

We left London Heathrow mid afternoon on Saturday 2nd April (arriving in Casablanca mid evening) and returned from Casablanca late morning the following Sunday. Unfortunately, on arrival at the check-in desk for our return flight, we were told that there was no space on the flight despite the fact that we had a ticket (this was apparently due to the cancellation of a flight the previous day). After much conveyance that the reason why we had flown British Airways was so that such a situation would not occur, we were flown back to Heathrow (via Paris) with
Air France and BMI for no additional charge.

Car hire was booked through the
Holiday Autos website with Budget as our ground agent for a total of £393 for a Toyota Avensis with an additional local charge for a second driver. Unfortunately, due to one of our party mislaying the car keys near Erfoud, we had to transfer to a Peugeot 406 midway through our trip (which we picked up at the Budget office in the centre of Ouarzazate). This episode, occurring due to our own incompetence, highlighted the need to use a recognised ground agent with offices located throughout the country.

Overnight accommodation was found on arrival at each destination with relative ease, although we did struggle to find suitable accommodation near the airport at Casablanca on our final night and were forced to stay within the city itself. Typical decent standard accommodation cost £10 - £15 per person per night although we found acceptable standards for as little as £4.50 per person in central Ouarzazate. Additionally, a couple of us stayed at the Auberge Kasbah Dakaoua (whilst the other two decided upon the car) for one night where tented accommodation and an evening meal were priced at £28 per person. Outrageously luxurious for the meagre price of £10 per person, and worthy of a special mention, was the
Auberge Kasbah Tombouctou at Merzouga.

Expecting food to be of variable standard to say the least, we had our usual contingency supply of Nutri-grain bars. Thankfully, we were more than impressed by the general standard and soon put the ‘bread and crisps’ diet to the back of our mind and tucked into tajines almost every evening with the less culinary adventurous amongst our party enjoying a regular supply of pizzas and burgers. The only disappointment came in Agadir where, all psyched up for a McDonald’s breakfast, we found out that this establishment doesn’t offer these ‘early morning feasts’ in Morocco. Throughout the trip, we ensured that we only drank bottled water and all members of the team remained perfectly healthy throughout.

The local currency, the dirham (£1 equaled 15 dirhams during our visit), is a restricted currency and cannot be taken out of the country and is not available abroad. However it is easy to purchase within the country as all towns that we visited contained ATM machines that accepted internationally recognised cards. For the latest currency rates, details can be found at
oanda.com.

Literature

Although Morocco is a large country, there is a relatively standard ‘birding route’ with several sites of interest being pinpointed by birders in order to see a variety of the target species. ‘Finding Birds in Northern Morocco’ and ‘Finding Birds in Southern Morocco’, both by Dave Gosney, were invaluable to the trip and can be purchased from
Birdguides with updates posted here. The new edition of ‘A Birdwatchers’ Guide to Morocco’ by Patrick and Fedora Bergier was also useful, in particular as it covers many sites that Gosney does not mention as well as providing tips for accommodation. ‘A Birdwatching Guide to Morocco’ by Pete Combridge and Alan Snook was relatively light in terms of content for our purpose. A 1992 Morocco trip report by Tim Allwood et al, purchased from Steve Whitehouse’s FBRIS some years ago, provided details for our Tristram’s Warbler site.

We used a 1:800,000 GeoCenter World Map of Morocco throughout our visit; purchased from
Stanfords. A Lonely Planet guide to Morocco was also used during the trip, allowing us to discover the range of accommodation available in areas that we wished to visit. The Collins Bird Guide (Mullarney, Svensson, Zetterstrom and Grant) was used throughout the trip while the 17 CD set Die Vogelstimmen by Andreas Schulze was also a useful resource.

Websites and acknowledgements

Information on birdwatching in Morocco can be gained from the many trip reports to be found on various websites such as
Surfbirds and Birdtours. Additionally, Go-South contains recent Moroccan sightings and further information on birdwatching in Morocco. Particularly useful is Chris Batty's report from March 2004 whilst further information was kindly provided by Chris Batty, Martijn Bot, Tony Clarke, Dave Farrow, Andrew Holden, Marnix Jonker, James Lidster and Arnoud van den Berg.

Other Information

We were impressed by the standard of roads in the country, with asphalt surfaces experienced everywhere except between Erfoud and Merzouga. With little traffic and relatively low speed limits, the Moroccan police force are exceptionally hot on speed traps using radar guns. These tended to all be located on the outskirts of city limits (where the 40 km per hour zones continue inexplicably far from the built-up areas) or on the auto-routes in the north of the country. Although we had been warned about night driving, the only danger we noted were the many pedestrians on conurbation peripheries and the odd motorbike with little in the way of lights.

In the Erfoud area, if you are traveling in a conventional car, it is currently not possible to drive the old road to Merzouga due to re-construction. However, if you continue from Erfoud to Rissani and proceed along the asphalt road east of Rissani, Merzouga (and Auberge Kasbah Dakaoua) can be successfully accessed along the sandy tracks leading off the main road.

Moroccan people have a reputation to enjoy a bit of haggling – our visit was no exception. Conversely, though, this is done in a friendly way and on no occasion did we feel as though we had to buy anything or were being swindled. The only slight problem that we had to deal with was when our guide failed to produce the hoped for Houbara Bustard – having negotiated a reduced rate of pay for the lack of this species (as everybody in Erfoud will claim to be able to show you Houbara Bustard), he appeared slightly surprised when we presented him with the amount. After initially giving us a sob story, he then claimed that he would phone the police! I calmly announced that this was an impossibility as he had no battery left on his phone and, realising he was not going to extract any more cash from us, shook our hands laughing and drove off.

The only area where you may experience ‘in your face harassment’ will be in the town of Erfoud. One way to combat this, and to make this part of your trip a little less stressful, would be to hire the services of
Idriss or his brother – both multi-lingual guides and top blokes who can point you in the direction of Desert Sparrows etc. Additionally, when we lost our car keys at the Pharaoh Eagle Owl site near Rissani they were able to fetch mechanics and arrange taxis so that we could (eventually) continue our trip.

Finally, it would be advisable to have at least one member of your crew to be conversant in French – though this is not a necessity, my French had to be fully utilised when we were sorting out our second hire car of the trip with Budget in Ouarzazate!


Itinerary

A brief outline of our trip (with approximate driving times) is detailed below:

Saturday drove north from Casablanca airport to Temara-plage (south of Rabat) where we stayed overnight.

Sunday Sidi Yahya at dawn then drove to Merdja Zerga (c2 ½ hour drive). 1 ½ hour drive back south to Lac de Sidi Bourhaba (and Mehdiya Plage) and finally driving (3 ½ hours) to Ifrane where we stayed overnight at the Hotel Chamonix.

Monday Dayet Aoua from first light then a couple of hours driving (after several roadside stops) to Zaida. An hour or so drive to Col Talghomt (south-east of Midelt) with a further 2 ½ hour drive to a site 43km west of Errachidia. Overnight at the Auberge Kasbah Tombouctou at Merzouga (after searching for Egyptian Nightjar).

Tuesday Merzouga area from early morning with a visit to the Auberge Erg Chebbi and the wadi adjacent to the Auberge Kasbah Dakaoua then the late morning and afternoon spent on a 4x4 in the desert area north-east of Erfoud and east of Aoufouss. Evening birding at the Auberge Kasbah Dakaoua with an overnight stay here.

Wednesday a short early morning drive from the Auberge Kasbah Dakaoua to cliffs 4.9km west of Rissani. 5 hour drive west to Ouarzazate with overnight accommodation in the town centre.

Thursday stony desert area from 57km east of Ouarzazate to similar areas 26km west of Ouarzazate until dusk. Overnight drive of c8 hours to area south of Guelmine (punctuated with a visit to Agadir airport and Oued Sous for Red-necked Nightjar). Overnight in the car just south of Guelmine.

Friday stony desert areas up to 22km south of Guelmine until mid morning then a couple of hours drive north to Oued Massa and then, finally, an hour or so drive to Oued Sous on the southern fringes of Agadir for dusk. Overnight at the Hotel Pergola near Oued Sous.

Saturday Oued Sous early morning with a couple of hours drive north along the coast to Tamri. Brief stop at Essaouira with a 2 ½ hour drive to Cape Beddouza (for a brief bit of seawatching) and then a further half hour or so drive to the vast coastal lagoons between El Oualidia and Sidi-Moussa (south of El-Jadida). Overnight spent in Casablanca city centre.

Sunday departed from Casablanca Airport late morning.

Target birds

Ruddy Shelduck
Six on the open water at the mouth of the Oued Massa (Gosney Southern page 10 site 6). There was no water in the lake at Merzouga and we similarly failed to locate any water north of Maadid, near Erfoud (where this species had been seen the previous week).

Ring-necked Duck
The long-staying male was easily located with the Common Pochard flock south of the causeway at Lac de Sidi Bourhaba (Gosney Northern page 10 site 3).

Marbled Duck
Eight at Lac de Sidi Bourhaba south of the causeway (Gosney Northern page 10 site 3). 2 on the pools at Oued Massa (Gosney Southern page 10 site 6) and 2 on lagoons between Oualidia to Sidi Moussa (Gosney Northern page 18).

Barbary Partridge
One by the asphalt road by the entrance to the car park at Sidi Yahya (Gosney Northern page 12 site 1) and another adjacent to the road 3.5km beyond the hunting lodge returning to Sidi Yahya village. A further individual on roadside rock face between Ouarzazate and Tazenakht by a small pink castle-type building near the ‘Agadir 297’ post and 3 birds flushed from coastal scrub at the Oued Sous (Gosney Southern page 8 site 2).

Double-spurred Francolin
At least 3 males calling from dawn, audible from the car park at Sidi Yahya (Gosney Northern page 12 site 1) including 1 bird located in the scrub immediately adjacent to the car park. Early morning mist, however, reduced our chances of locating any further calling birds in the valley. Although the directions in Gosney are adequate, further directions to the site from Temara may be helpful. Approaching Temara from the main coast road, go straight on at the first x-roads in the town and then turn right at the t-junction. Follow this road for 1.4km and turn left, at the next T-junction turn right and then turn left at the obvious cross-roads. Drive down this road for c9km when you will reach the village of Sidi Yahya – just before you reach the village proper, take the obvious right as the road goes downhill and follow this road for 13km passing the hunting lodge on your right. The car park can be reached via an unobvious track on the right a few hundred metres before the ‘Sidi Betache 17km’ post.

Northern Bald Ibis
This species was easily observed from the main road between 6 and 9km north of Tamri village. Additionally, we stumbled upon the colony where we were informed that at least 200 individuals were present this year. For obvious reasons, it is necessary not to reveal the location of this colony.

Black-winged Kite
Three individuals showed very well over poppy and arable fields 1.5km north of the hunting lodge (i.e. back towards the village of Sidi Yahya from the ‘car park’) at Sidi Yahya. A further individual was seen by the roadside between Casablanca town and the airport.

Lanner Falcon
One south of Guelmine and south of the bridge over the Oued Sayad on telegraph posts adjacent to the ‘Tan-Tan 122’ post and directly opposite a camel sign (Gosney Southern page 2 site 2).

Western Swamp-hen
Two were located in reeds to the south of the causeway at Lac de Sidi Bourhaba (Gosney Northern page 10 site 3).

Crested Coot
At least 15 at Lac de Sidi Bourhaba (Gosney Northern page 10) and at least 30 on the lake at Dayet Aoua (Gosney Northern page14 sites 1 and 2).

Cream-coloured Courser
We readily stumbled upon this species in pretty much any suitable desert habitat. 5 were located north of Zaida c2km south of the junction to Itzer, at least 9 in the area 43km west of Errachidia, 5 c15km east of Ouarzazate and 3 south-west of the junction to Marrakech/Agadir ‘348’ (26km west of Ouarzazate).

Crowned Sandgrouse
Seven flew north over the desert area just west of the ‘Agadir 421’ post east of Ouarzazate (and east of Skirou).

Black-bellied Sandgrouse
Three in the stony desert south of the main road 55km east of Ouarzazate.

Laughing Dove
Regularly encountered in southern and south-eastern areas of habitation such as Erfoud, Errachidia and Ouarzazate.

Pharaoh Eagle Owl
The ‘popular’ individual was easily located roosting in its favoured cave west of Rissani. Heading north from Rissani village, you will soon locate a green Ziz petrol station on your left. Immediately after this turn left on the road signposted to Alnif and clock 4.9km from here and park adjacent to the roadside near the ‘Alnif 84’ km post. There is an obvious ridge of rocks immediately to the north of the road – walk along the eastern base of these for approximately 1.5km until you reach a low ridge of rocks followed by a fairly large ‘slag mound’. Climb this largest mound and look at 11 o’clock where you will locate the favoured cave just to the left of an obvious fault in the cliff-face.

Marsh Owl
Four birds showed well at the south end of Merdja Zerga. From the main coast road, take the turn off to Moullay Bousselham. Instead of driving to this village, proceed south along the road east of Merdja Zerga, through the village of Gnafdi, for several kilometres until you reach an obvious bridge over the Nados Canal. Turn right onto the sandy track immediately after the bridge and drive as far as you can and park in the poplar woodland on the left. Continuing on foot, with the canal on your right, the poplars will end and the Marsh Owls were located over the first extensive area of juncos on the left hand side (Gosney Northern page 6 site 5). Note that these birds are vulnerable to disturbance and, under no circumstances, do not stray from the path.

Red-necked Nightjar
Three birds were readily seen, and heard singing, at dusk at the Oued Sous (Gosney Southern page 8 site 3). We had excellent views of one individual on the entrance track immediately before you reach the car park by the guard building. In a brief midnight search at Agadir Airport, we were unable to locate this species.

Little Swift
At least a couple were seen at Casablanca airport on our departure.

Blue-cheeked Bee-eater
One was noted on wires in the village of Aoufouss (to the north of Erfoud) and a further 3 in the small village to the west of ‘Skirou 12’ km post (east of Ouarzazate). Several were also seen by other observers during our visit on the road between Timejdad and Erfoud.

Levaillant’s Green Woodpecker
At least 3 showed well at Dayet Aoua (in the roadside trees between Gosney Northern page 14 sites 2 and 3).

Bar-tailed Desert Lark
This is a typical species of the sandy desert in the south of the country. At least 6 were noted on either side of the main road 43km west of Errachidia, several were seen on our 4x4 trip into the desert north-east of Erfoud and a few were also present 22km south of Guelmine (Gosney Southern page 2 site 3).

Desert Lark
The fluty song of this species is instantly recognisable and far carrying in the arid, stony desert areas of the south. Two pairs were located on our 4x4 drive into the desert north-east of Erfoud with additional birds being present in suitable habitat 55km and 57km east of Ouarzazate.

Greater Hoopoe Lark
At least 3 showed well, with birds present on either side of the road, 43km west of Errachidia.

Thick-billed Lark
In an excellent year for this species, two pairs were seen (one pair either side of the road) 43km west of Errachidia and at least 5 showed well on the stony desert a couple of hundred metres to the west of the road near the ‘Guelmin 22’ km post (Gosney Southern page 2 site 3) . The week prior to our visit, this species had been noted 4km east of Mellab on the road west of Erfoud towards Timejdad.

Temminck’s Horned Lark
A pair showed to a few yards in the desert area to the south of the main road 43km west of Errachidia.

Plain Martin
Only seen in the Oued Massa area (Gosney Southern page 10) – from the main road, take the turning to Massa village. At the T-junction turn left and proceed for a couple of km until you reach a bridge over a dried up river bed and park here. Walk right from this bridge and this species nests in the riverbank several hundred metres along the rough path. Other birds were located over the arable fields adjacent to the river (near Gosney Southern page 10 site 4).

Moroccan Wagtail
Two in the drainage ditch running at right angles to the path opposite the guard hut at the Oued Sous (Gosney Southern page 8). The only other individual noted was near the bridge over the Ksob Wadi south of Essaouira (Gosney Southern page 4 site 2).

Common Bulbul
Seen regularly and fairly numerous on the coastal strip from Guelmine (Gosney Southern page 2) north to Sidi Yahya (Gosney Northern page 12).

Moussier’s Redstart
At least 4 males at Dayet Aoua along the track to the ‘orchard’ (Gosney Northern page 14) with a further male by the roadside south of Azrou, a pair by the roadside 55km north of Rich, 3+ at the ‘Tristram’s Warbler site’ south-east of Midelt on the Tizi-n-Tairhemt pass and several on the Oued Massa reserve (Gosney Southern page 10).

Seebohm’s Wheatear
We only noted this species between Azrou and Itzer (south of Ifrane and north of Zeida) where several were noted by the roadside in suitable Middle Atlas habitat.

Desert Wheatear
Common in desert areas near Erfoud, Guelmine and Ouarzazate.

Red-rumped Wheatear
Surprisingly, we only noted this species at two sites – appeared common in the desert area south of Guelmine with at least 3 noted to the west of the road adjacent to the ‘Guelmine 22’ km post (Gosney Southern page 2 site 3) and a family party just south of the Oued Sayad (Gosney Southern page 2 site 2). A further individual showed well on the plains 13km south of Zeida (Gosney Northern page 16).

Western Mourning Wheatear
A pair showed well by the roadside 29km west of Ouarzazate. 26km west of Ouarzazate on the main road you will reach a junction where ‘Agadir 348’ km is to the left and Marrakech is straight on – continue in the direction of Marrakech. The birds were immediately adjacent to the ‘Ouarzazate 29’ km post with the male singing from the roadside wires to the left of the road and the female showing well on the rocky hillside to the right of the road. Searching of stony desert areas up to 57km east of Ouarzazate proved fruitless (including last year’s site south of the road at ‘Ouarzazate 55’ km post).

White-crowned Wheatear
Commonly seen in the Erfoud and Ouarzazate desert areas.

Black Wheatear
Much less numerous than the previous species with singles noted in Zeida town (Gosney Northern page 16), by the main road west of the Tizi-n-Tairhemt pass 55km north of Rich and 1 by the obvious road tunnel on the main road north of Errachidia.

Scrub Warbler
A pair (of the form saharae) were seen 43km west of Errachidia north of the main road. Just west of the ‘Errachidia 43’ km post, park by the bridge over the small wadi. Looking north-west from the bridge, you will note an obvious area of low green scrub that you need to walk towards. After walking through the first 150 yards or so of these bushes, you will come to an area of bare sand and then another, more extensive area of bushes will start fairly imminently. We located this species after a further 200 yards on the eastern edge of this more extensive area. Additionally, we failed to find this species (of the form theresae) in the bushes west of the main road south of Guelmine immediately south of the Oued Sayad and to the east of the plastic covered structures (Gosney Southern page 2 site 2).

Tristram’s Warbler
In early April, this species has returned to its mid altitude breeding areas and, as such, we located a pair at a favoured site south-east of Midelt on the Tizi-n-Tairhemt pass. If you are coming from Midelt, park in the lay-by on the hairpin bend by the ‘Er-Rich 51’ and ‘Errachidia 114’ signpost exactly 1.5km before you reach the pass summit (signed Col Talghomt 1907m). You will know this is the correct locality as the roadside rock face is strewn with obvious graffiti and an ‘attention au feu’ (fire) sign is also present. Walk down the obvious valley and the birds favour the bushes to the left of the ravine.

African Desert Warbler
A pair showed well to the north of the road 43km west of Errachidia (see Scrub Warbler for site directions) – they favoured the scrub c400 yards north of the road before flying into the obvious bright green ‘strip’ running east beyond the small hillock to the right of the main area of vegetation. A further individual was noted in similar desert scrub habitat on the 4x4 drive to the north-east of Erfoud.

Fulvous Babbler
At least a pair favoured the gardens and the adjacent wadi at the Auberge Kasbah Dakaoua south of Erfoud (Gosney Southern page 26 site 3), 10+ were seen in similar habitat on the 4x4 drive to the north-east of Erfoud and at least 7 were noted in the bushes to the south of the Oued Sayad, south of Guelmine (Gosney Southern page 2 site 2).

Black-crowned Tchagra
A pair showed very well in saline scrub at Oued Sous (to the east of Gosney Southern page 8 site 2) – park by the entrance gate and walk behind the guard house keeping the small channel on your left, cross the bridge and view the small area of bushes where the Tchagras were favouring. This species was also heard at Sidi Yahya and at Oued Massa (though we failed to see this species here due to our mid afternoon visit).

Brown-necked Raven
A single seen in the desert adjacent to Merzouga village, a flock of 7 2km west of Auberge Kasbah Dakaoua adjacent to the track to the asphalt road to Rissani and c10 birds over the road 4.9km west of Rissani (where you park for the Pharaoh Eagle Owl).

Desert Sparrow
A pair and a further male showed very well in the mucky courtyard immediately adjacent to the Auberge Erg Chebbi in Merzouga. We did not try the usual site at Café Yasmina (Gosney Southern page 26 site 4 - birds have apparently been irregular in their appearance here recently) and neither did we look for this species north-west of Auberge Kasbah Dakaoua (Gosney Southern page 26 site 3) at Auberge Kasbah Said where a pair have nested in an outhouse this year.

Trumpeter Finch
A very common desert species noted at all suitable locations including Merzouga (Gosney Southern page 26), Ouarzazate and Guelmine (Gosney Southern page 2).

House Bunting
Although not specifically looked for, this species is common in and around human habitation. Our records included individuals in Merzouga, Rissani, east of Ouarzazate and in Casablanca.

Target birds missed

Barbary Falcon
Although we had no precise locations, reports of this species are extremely widespread in the southern half of the country from Agadir right the way east to Erfoud.

Houbara Bustard
We had an unsuccessful 4x4 attempt looking for this species in the desert area to the northeast of Erfoud despite our guide claiming that he would be able to show us this species – fortunately we had negotiated a lower rate of pay for this eventuality. This species is still present in the desert area to the east and southeast of Erfoud – indeed it was noted here in March 2004 (per Chris Batty). Additionally, our 4x4 driver sadly seemed pleased to have a Houbara foot dangling from his wing mirror, collected from the desert near Zagora (in the Draa Valley) after taking Saudi hunters there in January 2005.

Grey-headed Gull
An adult of this species was reported on lagoons near Oualidia (Gosney Northern page 18) during our visit.

Royal Tern
Although we failed to see this species, it is occasionally recorded at the Oued Sous (Gosney Southern page 8) and, additionally, a visit further south into Western Sahara to the Dakhla area would certainly have added this species.

Lesser Crested Tern
Searching for this species on a rather ad-hoc basis at Oued Massa (Gosney Southern page 10), Oued Sous (Gosney Southern page 8) and the coastline to the north of Agadir proved fruitless. The species was seen on the beach at Paradis-Plage near Tarhazoute (north of Agadir) during our visit.

Spotted Sandgrouse
This year has been incredibly dry and hence records of all species of sandgrouse have been thin on the ground. This species has been recorded in previous years in the Erfoud and Merzouga area.

Pin-tailed Sandgrouse
Due to time constraints, we were unable to visit the Tagdilt track where this species has been seen by others (Gosney Southern page 22).

Egyptian Nightjar
This species has been extremely difficult to find in 2005 due to the dry weather and the lack of cultivation in the fields behind the Auberge Kasbah Dakaoua (Gosney Southern page 26 site 3). The owner of Auberge Kasbah Dakaoua said that he had last seen them a fortnight before our visit hawking over the swimming pool at midnight. Further efforts driving the tracks to the north of Auberge Kasbah Dakaoua on the track back to Erfoud also proved fruitless. Interestingly this species had been noted on a couple of occasions on the asphalt road c3km east of Rissani near the Auberge Tresor in the week prior to our visit (though again, we were unable to locate any).

Dupont’s Lark
An ill-timed late morning visit to the plains south of Zeida (Gosney Northern page 16) in a half-hearted attempt for this species produced the inevitable blank. The week before our visit, this species had been seen early morning 13km south of Zeida.

Shore Lark
Due to time constraints, we were unable to visit Oukaimeden (Gosney Southern page 16 site 2) where they are numerous. Additionally, areas to the south of Ifrane have been productive for this species (per Chris Batty).

Atlas Pied Flycatcher
We felt it too early for this species to be back on its breeding grounds (for example, the Foret de Cedres immediately southeast of Azrou, south of Ifrane) yet there were reports of migrants of this species in the Merzouga area during our visit.

Crimson-winged Finch
We failed to visit Oukaimeden (Gosney Northern page 16 site 2) where several of this species had been seen in ‘Car Park P2’ (in Gosney) the previous week.

Additionally, Helmeted Guineafowl, Dark Chanting Goshawk, Tawny Eagle, Lichtenstein’s Sandgrouse, Black-crowned Finch Lark and Rock Martin seemed too remote a chance or outside the geographical limits of our itinerary even to consider as ‘misses’ on our trip.

Complete trip list

186 species (following taxonomy and nomenclature used at
Western Palearctic Birds)

Ruddy Shelduck Tadorna ferruginea
Mallard Anas platyrhynchos
Northern Pintail Anas acuta
Gadwall Anas strepera
Northern Shoveler Anas clypeata
Marbled Teal Marmaronetta angustirostris
Red-crested Pochard Netta rufina
Common Pochard Aythya ferina
Ring-necked Duck Aythya collaris
Ferruginous Duck Aythya nyroca
Barbary Partridge Alectoris barbara
Double-spurred Francolin Francolinus bicalcaratus ayesha
Common Quail Coturnix coturnix
Common Pheasant Phasianus colchicus
Little Grebe Tachybaptus ruficollis
Great Crested Grebe Podiceps cristatus
Black-necked Grebe Podiceps nigricollis
Northern Gannet Morus bassanus
Great Cormorant Phalacrocorax carbo maroccanus
Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis
Little Egret Egretta garzetta
Grey Heron Ardea cinerea
Purple Heron Ardea purpurea
White Stork Ciconia ciconia
Glossy Ibis Plegadis falcinellus
Northern Bald Ibis Geronticus eremita
Eurasian Spoonbill Platalea leucorodia
Greater Flamingo Phoenicopterus roseus
Black-winged Kite Elanus caeruleus
Black Kite Milvus migrans
Short-toed Eagle Circaetus gallicus
Western Marsh Harrier Circus aeruginosus
Montagu's Harrier Circus pygargus
Common Buzzard Buteo buteo
Long-legged Buzzard Buteo rufinus cirtensis
Booted Eagle Hieraaetus pennatus
Lesser Kestrel Falco naumanni
Common Kestrel Falco tinnunculus
Lanner Falcon Falco biarmicus erlangeri
Peregrine Falcon Falco peregrinus minor
Common Moorhen Gallinula chloropus
Western Swamp-hen Porphyrio porphyrio
Eurasian Coot Fulica atra
Crested Coot Fulica cristata
Eurasian Oystercatcher Haematopus ostralegus
Black-winged Stilt Himantopus himantopus
Pied Avocet Recurvirostra avosetta
Stone-curlew Burhinus oedicnemus saharae
Cream-coloured Courser Cursorius cursor
Collared Pratincole Glareola pratincola
Little Ringed Plover Charadrius dubius
Common Ringed Plover Charadrius hiaticula
Kentish Plover Charadrius alexandrinus
Grey Plover Pluvialis squatarola
Sanderling Calidris alba
Little Stint Calidris minuta
Curlew Sandpiper Calidris ferruginea
Dunlin Calidris alpina
Ruff Philomachus pugnax
Common Snipe Gallinago gallinago
Black-tailed Godwit Limosa limosa limosa
Bar-tailed Godwit Limosa lapponica
Whimbrel Numenius phaeopus
Spotted Redshank Tringa erythropus
Common Redshank Tringa totanus
Marsh Sandpiper Tringa stagnatilis
Common Greenshank Tringa nebularia
Green Sandpiper Tringa ochropus
Common Sandpiper Actitis hypoleucos
Ruddy Turnstone Arenaria interpres
Parasitic Jaeger Stercorarius parasiticus
Black-headed Gull Larus ridibundus
Slender-billed Gull Larus genei
Audouin's Gull Larus audouinii
Lesser Black-backed Gull Larus fuscus
Yellow-legged Gull Larus michahellis
Gull-billed Tern Gelochelidon nilotica
Caspian Tern Sterna caspia
Sandwich Tern Sterna sandvicensis
Crowned Sandgrouse Pterocles coronatus
Black-bellied Sandgrouse Pterocles orientalis
Common Wood Pigeon Columba palumbus
Collared Dove Streptopelia dacaocto
European Turtle Dove Streptopelia turtur
Laughing Dove Streptopelia senegalensis
Common Cuckoo Cuculus canorus
Barn Owl Tyto alba erlangeri
Pharaoh Eagle Owl Bubo ascalaphus
Tawny Owl Strix aluco mauritanica
Long-eared Owl Asio otus
Marsh Owl Asio capensis tingitanus
Red-necked Nightjar Caprimulgus ruficollis
Common Swift Apus apus
Pallid Swift Apus pallidus brehmorum
Alpine Swift Apus melba
Little Swift Apus affinis galiejensis
Blue-cheeked Bee-eater Merops persicus chrysocerus
European Bee-eater Merops apiaster
European Roller Coracias garrulus
Eurasian Hoopoe Upupa epops
Eurasian Wryneck Jynx torquilla
Levaillant's Green Woodpecker Picus vaillantii
Great Spotted Woodpecker Dendrocopos major mauritanus
Bar-tailed Desert Lark Ammomanes cincture arenicolor
Desert Lark Ammomanes deserti algerensis and payni
Greater Hoopoe Lark Alaemon alaudipes
Thick-billed Lark Ramphocoris clotbey
Calandra Lark Melanocorypha calandra
Greater Short-toed Lark Calandrella brachydactyla
Lesser Short-toed Lark Calandrella rufescens minor
Crested Lark Galerida cristata
Thekla Lark Galerida theklae
Wood Lark Lullula arborea pallida
Temminck's Horned Lark Eremophila bilopha
Brown-throated Sand Martin Riparia paludicola mauritanica
Sand Martin Riparia riparia
Eurasian Crag Martin Ptyonoprogne rupestris
Barn Swallow Hirundo rustica
Red-rumped Swallow Hirundo daurica
Common House Martin Delichon urbicum
Tawny Pipit Anthus campestris
Tree Pipit Anthus trivialis
Water Pipit Anthus spinoletta
Blue-headed Wagtail Motacilla flava
Spanish Wagtail Motacilla iberiae
White Wagtail Motacilla alba
Moroccan Wagtail Motacilla subpersonata
Common Bulbul Pycnonotus barbatus
Common Nightingale Luscinia megarhynchos
Black Redstart Phoenicurus ochruros
Common Redstart Phoenicurus phoenicurus
Moussier's Redstart Phoenicurus moussieri
Whinchat Saxicola rubetra
European Stonechat Saxicola torquata rubicola
Northern Wheatear Oenanthe oenanthe
Seebohm's Wheatear Oenanthe seebohmi
Western Black-eared Wheatear Oenanthe hispanica
Desert Wheatear Oenanthe deserti homochroa
Red-rumped Wheatear Oenanthe moesta
Western Mourning Wheatear Oenanthe halophila
White-tailed Wheatear Oenanthe leucopyga
Black Wheatear Oenanthe leucura syenitica
Rufous-tailed Rock Thrush Monticola saxatilis
Common Blackbird Turdus merula
Song Thrush Turdus philomelos
Mistle Thrush Turdus viscivorus deichleri
Cetti's Warbler Cettia cetti
Fan-tailed Warbler Cisticola juncidis
Scrub Warbler Scotocerca inquieta saharae
Tristram's Warbler Sylvia deserticola maroccana
Spectacled Warbler Sylvia conspicillata
Subalpine Warbler Sylvia cantillans cantillans and inornata
Sardinian Warbler Sylvia melanocephala
African Desert Warbler Sylvia deserti
Common Whitethroat Sylvia communis
Blackcap Sylvia atricapilla
Western Bonelli's Warbler Phylloscopus bonelli
Northern Chiffchaff Phylloscopus collybita
Willow Warbler Phylloscopus trochilus
Firecrest Regulus ignicapilla balearicus
Fulvous Babbler Turdoides fulva
Coal Tit Parus ater atlas
African Blue Tit Parus teneriffae ultramarinus
Great Tit Parus major excelsus
Short-toed Treecreeper Certhia brachydactyla mauritanica
Black-crowned Tchagra Tchagra senegalus cucullata
Southern Grey Shrike Lanius meridionalis algeriensis
Woodchat Shrike Lanius senator
Eurasian Jay Garrulus glandarius minor/riticus
Common Magpie Pica pica mauritanica
Brown-necked Raven Corvus ruficollis
Common Raven Corvus corax tingitanus
Spotless Starling Sturnus unicolor
House Sparrow Passer domesticus
Desert Sparrow Passer simplex saharae
Rock Sparrow Petronia petronia barbara
Common Chaffinch Fringilla coelebs africana
European Serin Serinus serinus
European Greenfinch Chloris chloris voousi
European Goldfinch Carduelis carduelis
Common Linnet Carduelis cannabina
Trumpeter Finch Bucanetes githagineus zedlitzi
Cirl Bunting Emberiza cirlus
Rock Bunting Emberiza cia africana
House Bunting Emberiza sahari
Corn Bunting Emberiza calandra

Richard Bonser April 2005

Ring-necked Duck

Lesser Kestrel

Lanner Falcon

Western Swamp-hen

Crested Coot

Pharaoh Eagle Owl

Blue-cheeked Bee-eater

European Bee-eater

Levaillant's Green Woodpecker

Bar-tailed Desert Lark

Greater Short-toed Lark

Thekla Lark

Moussier's Redstart

Seebohm's Wheatear

Western Black-eared Wheatear

Red-rumped Wheatear

Western Mourning Wheatear

Tristram's Warbler

Subalpine Warbler

Fulvous Babbler

Black-crowned Tchagra

Desert Sparrow

Trumpeter Finch

House Bunting

all images taken with a Nikon Coolpix 4500 mounted to a Leica APO77 telescope with a London Camera Exchange adapter and 20x or 30x wide angle eyepieces

 


Cape Verde Islands 24th February-7th March 2005

The Cape Verde Islands are situated in the extreme southwest of the Western Palearctic, south of the Tropic of Cancer and only around five hundred kilometres west of Senegal. The archipelago consists of twelve main islands but on a comprehensive birding tour it is only necessary to birdwatch on four islands (Raso, Branco, Santiago and Boa Vista) but to reach these will require visiting a least Sal and São Nicolau, and probably São Vicente.

Following a conservative approach to taxonomy the Cape Verde Islands hold six species endemic in a Western Palearctic context - Magnificent Frigatebird, Cape Verde Swift, Grey-headed Kingfisher, Raso Lark, Cape Verde Warbler and Iago Sparrow. However, if the phylogenetic species concept is employed the islands hold a further eight species endemic in a Western Palearctic context - Cape Verde Shearwater, Cape Verde Little Shearwater, Bourne's Heron, Cape Verde Buzzard, Alexander's Kestrel, Neglected Kestrel, Cape Verde Peregrine Falcon and Cape Verde Barn Owl. Sadly, Cape Verde Kite is now presumed to be extinct (if it ever existed) whilst Bourne's Heron and Cape Verde Peregrine Falcon are both endangered. Additionally, highly sought after breeding seabirds in the Cape Verde Islands include Fea's Petrel, White-faced Storm-petrel, Madeiran Storm-petrel, Red-billed Tropicbird and Brown Booby. In the past the islands have produced some exceptional Western Palearctic vagrants including White-tailed Tropicbird (1999), Red-footed Booby (llhéu de Cima, August 1986), Black Heron (Boa Vista, February-March 1985) and Broad-billed Roller (Maio, November 1897 and Santiago, April 1924).

Michael Hoit, Andrew Holden and Tom Lowe accompanied me on an eleven day visit that produced all the hoped for endemics except for Cape Verde Peregrine Falcon. A longer trip may be advisable given the unreliable reputation of the internal flights; previous birding trips have been hampered by strong winds and resultant dust storms causing planes to be cancelled.

Logistics

The cost of the whole trip, including visas, flights, taxes, booking fee, vehicles, drivers, fuel, accommodation and food, came to - an expensive - £1,340 per person.

I could not find details of TACV flights on the internet and, not being able to speak Portuguese, did not contact TACV direct. Consequently I booked all the flights (except the two
Easyjet flights) and accommodation through Yorkshire based travel agents Cape Verde Travel. Here, Ron Hughes and Lisa put together an excellent itinerary (based around my requests) and the subsequent trip ran smoothly. The total cost of this was £920.

A main meal costs around £5, a bread roll 10p, a 5 litre bottle of water £2, a small tin of tuna 65p and a litre of petrol 78p.

The essential guide for any birding trip to the islands is Dave Sargeant's 'Cape Verde - A Birder's Guide to the Cape Verde Islands'. This extended trip report includes details of almost all the sites (including good maps), an annotated checklist and practical information. This is a must and can be purchased from
Birdguides for £9.99. I have referenced this guide throughout this trip report.

In addition to this two trip reports of past
Birdquest tours were helpful and I used Eurobirding.com to locate trip reports by Janne Aalto, Nico Geiregat, Erling Krabbe, Rob Payne and Pedro Tavares.
Arnoud B. van den Berg, Leo Boon, Andy Clifton, Tommy Frandsen and Roy Taylor provided helpful information.

An overview to birding the islands was given by Andreas Noeske and Setfan Pfützke in
Birding World Vol.7 No.4: 152-160 'The Cape Verde Islands: tropical birding in the Western Palearctic'. Immediately after our return from Cape Verde, Arnoud B. van den Berg published an update in Birding World, 'Birding the Cape Verde Islands' Vol.18 No.2: 80-81.

As a general guide to the islands I used 'Cape Verde Islands'
The Bradt Travel Guide purchased from Amazon for £9.06 plus postage.

Visa
A tourist entry visa costs Euro 45 (= £32.40) and is available on arrival at Sal Airport. Your passport must have at least six months left to run beyond your intended return date.

Itinerary

24th February
flew Luton to Amsterdam with
Easyjet departing 06:00 arriving 08:10 (for c£31.90)
flew Amsterdam to Sal departing 11:10 arriving 15:25
hired a car for 24 hours from Sal Airport (Euro 58 = £41.80)
birded Pedra de Lume until dusk
stayed overnight at Hotel Sobrado, Santa Maria

25th February
birded Santa Maria then Pedra de Lume
flew Sal to São Nicolau departing 15:20 arriving 16:00
hired aluguer from São Nicolau Airport to Tarrafal, stopping briefly in Fajã Valley (CV Escudos 2,000 = £13.10)
stayed overnight Pensao Alice, Tarrafal

26th February
chartered fishing boat to Raso (Euro 300 = £216) organised through husband of Alice at Pensão Alice
birded Raso until 14:00 then collected by chartered fishing boat and taken to Branco
camped overnight on Branco

27th February
collected by chartered fishing boat at 08:00 (Euro 300 = £216)
hired auluger to Punta de Barril and seawatched (CV Escudos 1,300 = £8.50)
stayed overnight Pensão Alice, Tarrafal

28th February
hired auluger to Punta de Barril and seawatched (CV Escudos 1,000 = £6.50)
hired auluger to São Nicolau Airport (CV Escudos 2,500 = £16.40)
flew São Nicolau to São Vicente departing 17:50 arriving 18:20
birded São Pedro lagoon until dusk
flew São Vicente to Santiago departing 22:10 arriving 23:10
taxi to Praia (CV Escudos 500 = £3.50)
stayed overnight Residencial Paraiso, Praia

1st March
hired car for 48 hours from Alucar (located near Shell garage by harbour and TAP building) (CV Escudos 9,500 = £62.20 plus CV Escudos 10 per/km after 100km/24 hours)
birded Liberão, Ribeira de Praia Formosa, São Jorges, Boa Entrada, Tarrafal until dusk, São Domingos
stayed overnight Residencial Paraiso, Praia

2nd March
birded Praia, Ribeira de Praia Formosa, João Golo, Rui Vaz, Liberão, Pedra Badejo until dusk
stayed overnight Residencial Paraiso, Praia

3rd March
taxi to Santiago Airport (CV Escudos 200 = £1.30)
flew Santiago to Sal departing 11:35 arriving 12:25
flew Sal to Boa Vista departing 14:45 arriving 15:15
courtesy taxi to Sal Rei
hitched to and from Rabil Lagoon
stayed overnight at Residencial A Paz, Sal Rei

4th March
hired 4x4 with driver arranged through Rui in Sal Rei (CV Escudos 5,000 = £32.70)
birded Curral Velho then dropped at Baie das Gatas
chartered small fishing boat to llhéu dos Pássaros (CV Escudos 2,000 = £13.10)
birded llhéu dos Pássaros into night
camped overnight on llhéu dos Pássaros

5th March
chartered small fishing boat to Baie das Gatas (CV Escudos 2,000 = £13.10)
collected from Baie das Gatas by hired 4x4 with driver arranged through Rui in Sal Rei (CV Escudos 5,000 = £32.70)
birded Rabil Lagoon
hitched to Sal Rei
stayed overnight at Residencial A Paz, Sal Rei

6th March
courtesy taxi to Boa Vista Airport
flew Boa Vista to Sal departing 07:20 arriving 07:45

7th March
flew Sal to Paris Charles de Gaulle departing 01:35 arriving 09:15
flew Paris Charles de Gaulle to Luton with
Easyjet departing 15:00 arriving 15:15 (for c£31.90)

All flights were with TACV unless stated otherwise. In general all TACV inter-island flights left between 30 minutes and one hour after their scheduled time. Our return flight to Paris Charles de Gaulle landed over two hours behind schedule, worth bearing in mind when booking a connection to the UK. One change in schedule by TACV was communicated to our hotel. As such it is worth informing the TACV office in Sal Airport of your accommodation and contact details.

On reflection changes we would have made to our visit would have been to undertake the trip one week later, flying out from Amsterdam on 3rd March instead of 24th February. This would have improved our chances of seeing greater numbers of seabirds, in particular the late arriving Cape Verde Shearwater. However, this later arrival would have necessitated visiting Santiago first (followed by São Nicolau and Boa Vista) to maximise the chances of the Bourne's Herons still being present in the nest at Liberão.

Islands

Sal
Sal has the only international airport on the Cape Verde Islands and as such is a necessary stopover en-route to other islands. We visited the two recommended birding sites on the island; Pedra de Lume (Sargeant p25) where a selection of common waders were present and Santa Maria (Sargeant p26).

São Nicolau
São Nicolau is the gateway to Raso. It is necessary to visit the west coast town of Tarrafal where a fishing boat can be chartered to reach Raso. Elsewhere on São Nicolau we birded the immediate vicinity of the airport, the Fajã Valley (Sargeant p22) en-route to Tarrafal, where Helmeted Guineafowl were seen and Punta da Barril for seawatching.

Raso
Reached by chartered fishing boat from Tarrafal, São Nicolau, Raso (Sargeant page 24) is the famous haunt of Raso Lark as well as breeding Red-billed Tropicbirds and Brown Boobies.

Branco
Following collection from Raso by our chartered fishing boat we were deposited on Branco for one night. The precipitous island of Branco is a breeding site for four nocturnal seabirds: White-faced Storm-petrel, Maderian Storm-petrel, Cape Verde Little Shearwater and Cape Verde Shearwater.

São Vicente
Only visited as a connection en-route from São Nicolau to Santiago. São Pedro lagoon (Sargeant 22) was visited at dusk.

Santiago
Liberão (Banana de Riberia Sargeant 16) is the only remaining colony of Bourne's Heron (the colony at Boa Entrada (Sargeant 24) has been deserted). South of Pedra Badejo, Milho Branco is a former breeding site of Cape Verde Peregrine Falcon. São Jorges and João Teres (Sargeant 15) is a reliable site for Cape Verde Buzzard and Cape Verde Peregrine Falcon has been seen here in the past. Boa Entrada (Sargeant 14) is a good site for Cape Verde Warbler. Farmland south of Tarrafal proved reliable for Cape Verde Barn Owl. São Domingos is a (former?) breeding area of Fea's Petrel but we found Cape Verde Little Shearwaters here. The town of Praia (Sargeant 13) produced Black-crowned Finch Lark but little else. Pedra Badejo (Sargeant 17) produced Cape Verde Shearwaters on an evening seawatch.

Boa Vista
Sal Rei (Sargeant 26) produced little of note other than Red-billed Tropicbirds though nearby Rabil Lagoon (Sargeant 26) held a vagrant Purple Heron. Curral Velho (Sargeant 28) is the favoured site for locating Magnificent Frigatebird. llhéu dos Pássaros (Sargeant 28) is a tiny island off the east coast to which an overnight visit, reached by chartering a small fishing boat from Baie de Gatas, produced excellent views of White-faced Storm-petrel.

Additions to Dave Sargeant's trip report

CV1 Praia, Santiago
The small sewage farm near the Ceris brewery no longer seems to exist.
São Domingos is a (former?) breeding area for Fea's Petrels but we found Cape Verde Little Shearwaters here

CV2 Boa Entrada, Santiago
The kapok tree is now dead and Bourne's Heron no longer nests here. It is possible to drive the majority of the way to the kapok tree in a standard hire car. Cape Verde Warbler seems commonest by the track just northwest of the kapok tree. Boa Entrada is accessed off the main road between Assomada and Enacol petrol station along a minor road with a 'give way' sign.

CV4 Banana de Riberia Montanha, Santiago
This site is called Liberão. It can be reach with a conventional hire car

CV12 Tarrafal and the Fajã Valley, São Nicolau
c5km north of Tarrafal is Punta de Barril where you can seawatch by the lighthouse.
We saw at least 16 Helmeted Guineafowls north of the road on the second bend northeast of Cacha
ção.

Additional site not featured in Dave Sargeant's trip report

Branco
After birding Raso it is possible to be collected by your chartered fishing boat and taken to the nearby island of Branco. You will be dropped off on a beach on the south side of the island. From here walk east along the shore until you reach a peninsula at the southeast end, Ponta Delgada. Behind the easternmost beach an area of sand holds many White-faced Storm-petrel burrows. Do not walk on the sand as the burrows will collapse. The White-faced Storm-petrels return to their burrows in darkness, we only saw one briefly at c00:30. However, we may have missed the main period activity whilst we were searching for a singing Cape Verde Little Shearwater on the rocky slopes between the landing beach and Ponta Delgada, and 2+ Madeiran Storm-petrels in the same area. We found several Cape Verde Shearwater skulls, evidence of the continued persecution of this species, but we were too early in the year for them to be returning to their colony. We camped overnight and were collected by our fishing boat at 08:00.

Target birds

Common Quail (endemic form inopinata)

São Nicolau
At least five singing along the approach road to the airport terminal building

São Vicente
Previously seen at Mindelo sewage works

Santiago
Has been heard south of Tarrafal near the sewage works

Boa Vista
In the past has been heard at Tiberia do Norte (between João Galego and Norte), Sal Rei, Rabil and Rabil Lagoon.

Helmeted Guineafowl
An introduced species to the Cape Verde Islands.

São Nicolau
16+ in the Fajã Valley on a vegetated hillside by the second bend north of Cacha
ção (see Sargeant p22 for further sites). Previously recorded near the airport, near Carvoeiros and above Cabecalinho).

Santiago
30 Ribeira de Praia Formosa northwest of the road to Pedra Badejo c4km north of the junction near Ribeira Chiquerio. 3 southeast of Rui Vaz north of the road viewed from a layby on the ridge. Previously recorded at Liberão.

Boa Vista
Apparently a more recent introduction to this island than to others. 60+ in scrub behind the beach between llhéu dos Pássaros and llhéu de Balaurate. Previously seen nearby at Riberia de Norte.

Fea's Petrel

São Nicolau
Perhaps as many as 30 were lingering distantly off Punta de Barril. Previously seen passing near Estãncia Brãs.

Raso
At least 10 seen from the Tarrafal boat crossing both to Raso and from Branco. All birds about one hour out of Tarrafal.

São Vicente
One distantly past São Pedro

Santiago
Two distantly off Pedra Badejo. Previously (?) bred in São Domingos valley.

Cape Verde Shearwater
We recorded unidentified Calconectris shearwaters distantly off several islands.

São Nicolau
Past reports include birds passing Tarrafal and Punta da Barril

Raso
One from the boat c45 minutes out of Tarrafal. Past trips have recorded as many as 150 from the same crossing. It appears that our trip to Raso and Branco (26th-27th February) was too early for any number of this species to have returned from their wintering grounds; this was confirmed by the fisherman.

Branco
Too early in the season for them to be returning to their colony the only evidence of their past presence was several skulls.

São Vicente
Previously seen off São Pedro

Santiago
Four north past Pedra Badejo on an evening seawatch. Previously seen off Praia and Tarrafal.

Boa Vista
Previously seen off Curral Velho and llhéu dos Pássaros.

Cape Verde Little Shearwater

São Nicolau
Previously recorded off Tarrafal

Raso
Breeds on this island and previously recorded from the boat crossing

Branco
At least one singing on the southern scree slopes from 20:00 well into the night

Santiago
At least two were singing and seen in flight in the valley running southeast from São Domingos around 23:00. Audible from the layby on the south side of the road 700 metres west of the road junction north of Riberia Chiquerio.

White-faced Storm-petrel
(form eadesi)

Branco
Although burrows littered the small flat sandy area behind the easternmost beach towards the southeast end of the island only one was seen briefly at c00:30. Past reports suggest we were either unlucky or did no do justice to this colony; spending time with Cape Verde Little Shearwater and Madeiran Storm-petrel may have meant we missed the main event. However, our experience on llhéu dos Pássaros suggests this colony is less active

llhéu dos Pássaros
Although difficult to estimate the exact number involved, birds had returned by 19:45 and were still active at 03:45 with as many as seven birds together over the sandy centre of the island.

Madeiran Storm-petrel

Raso
Previously reported from the boat near Raso with large numbers breeding in the mountains there

Branco
At least two seen by the easternmost beach from 22:00

Boa Vista
Reported to breed on islets off the east side of the island

Red-billed Tropicbird
(form mesonauta)

São Nicolau
One distantly off Punta de Barril

Raso
40+ on the southern cliffs and offshore

Santiago
At least one at Praia around the cliffs east of the port

Boa Vista
9+ northeast of Sal Rei at Ponta de Sol on cliffs in the valley

Brown Booby
(nominate form leucogaster)

Sal
One west past Santa Maria

São Nicolau
Seen off Tarrafal and Punta de Barril

Raso
c160 estimated on the southern cliffs

Branco
Present offshore

Santiago
Has been seen off Praia and Pedra Badejo

Boa Vista
Singles at Sal Rei, Rabil Lagoon with several off llhéu dos Pássaros and colonies on llhéu de Curral Velho and llhéu de Baluarte. Has been seen off Riberia Grande in the past.

Magnificent Frigatebird

Branco
One offshore in March 2000

Boa Vista
One male circling high of the beach to the east of llhéu de Curral Velho. A pair were present here in March 2004. In April 2003 a male was seen over Praia da Cruz and Rabil Lagoon. Also in April 2003 six (four males, two females) were on llhéu de Baluarte with at least one female being seen off nearby Ponta do Rife. Our 4x4 driver failed to access Ponta do Rife due to the poor state of the tracks.

Purple Heron

Boa Vista
A vagrant to the Cape Verde Islands, we saw a subadult at Rabil Lagoon.

Bourne's Heron

Santiago
The only remaining colony of this species is in a mahogany tree at Liberão (also known as Banana de Riberia Montanha). We saw 11 birds including eight juveniles in nests. Local conservationists reported that three juveniles had died recently; two killed by children and one falling from the nest. It is possible to drive to the tree in a conventional hire car. The Bourne's Herons are reported to commence breeding in August/ September with, in wet winters, a second brood in January/ February. When not breeding this species is very difficult to find, with the interior mountains pf the Serra do Pico da Antonia suggested as a likely feeding area. One was seen in flight near São Domingos in April 2003. At Liberão birds were feeding in dry gulleys on valley sides amongst stands of canes. At Boa Entrada the famous kapok tree is now dead and no longer holds a colony.

Cape Verde Buzzard

Santiago
Three were seen over the northeastern slopes of Pico do Antonia viewed distantly from both the road west of São Jorges dos Orgãos and the road south of Picos. The other site for this species on Santiago is Serra Malagueta. The only other island supporting Cape Verde Buzzard is Santa Antão

Alexander's Kestrel

Sal
Common and widespread

Santiago
Common and widespread

Boa Vista
Common and widespread

Neglected Kestrel

São Nicolau
Common

Raso
Two seen over the south side

São Vicente
Reported to be common

Cream-coloured Courser
(form exsul)

Sal
Three north of Santa Maria on semi-desert east of the road near the first roundabout. Has also been seen near Pedra da Lume.

Boa Vista
Widespread in desert areas, common near Curral Velho.

Cape Verde Barn Owl

São Nicolau
Apparently occurs

Santiago
Soon after dusk one showed very well south of Tarrafal near the sewage works, over farmland by the farm buildings. This appears to be a reliable site. Access along minor roads west from the main road. Further birds crossed the main road c9km south of Tarrafal and just west of Boa Entrada. Based on previous reports this species appears widespread on Santiago with sightings at Liberão, São Jorges dos Orgãos, Residencial Sol Atlantico in Praia (situated on the raised plateau just south of the TACV office and adjacent to the main square) and near the mouth of the river at Praia.

Cape Verde Swift

São Nicolau
Widespread

São Vicente
Widespread

Santiago
Widespread

Grey-headed Kingfisher
(form acteon)

Santiago
Common and widespread, particularly in the interior e.g. 25 seen between São Domingos and Liberão.

Black-crowned Finch Lark
(nominate form nigriceps)

São Nicolau
Reported to occur

Santiago
Four just east of Praia on waste ground behind the Shell depot with a further male in Praia near the lighthouse. Previously seen just south of Tarrafal near the sewage works.

Boa Vista
Common and widespread

Bar-tailed Desert Lark
(nominate form cinctura)

Sal
Common in arid areas

São Nicolau
Common in arid areas

Santiago
Common in arid areas

Boa Vista
Common in arid areas

Greater Hoopoe Lark (endemic form boavistae)

Boa Vista
Common in arid areas

Raso Lark

Raso
Common

Cape Verde Warbler

São Nicolau
Reported to be local

Santiago
At least 7 at Boa Entrada in trees by the track northwest of the dead kapok tree. Also occurs at São Jorges (in the valley below the village), at Liberão with odd records from Pedra Badejo, São Domingos and in Praia at Residencial Sol Atlantico.

Brown-necked Raven

São Nicolau
Widespread

Raso
Widespread

São Vicente
Widespread

Santiago
Widespread

Boa Vista
Widespread

Iago Sparrow

Common on all islands visited.

Common Waxbill


Santiago
Common and widespread, e.g. 100 Liberão

Target birds missed

Bulwer's Petrel

São Nicolau
Previously recorded off Punta da Barril and from a chartered boat to Boa Vista

Raso
An uncommon breeder

Western Reef Egret

Santiago
We recorded a possible white morph at Tarrafal on rocks by the beach immediately north of the town. This rare but regular visitor to the Cape Verde Islands has previously been recorded at the sewage works south of Tarrafal, at Pedra Badejo and in Praia (at Praia the pools by the brewery no longer exist and we could not find an egret roost).

Boa Vista
Previously recorded at Rabil Lagoon

Intermediate Egret
A vagrant to the Cape Verde Islands.

São Vicente
In the recent past this species has been seen roosting with Cattle Egrets at Mindelo sewage works.

Boa Vista
Previously recorded at Rabil Lagoon

Cape Verde Kite
Sadly, presumed to be extinct, if indeed it ever existed as a species. In 2002
The Peregrine Fund located and captured five kites (of six birds present at that time) on the island of Maio and, following genetic analysis at the University of Michigan, it was determined that they were Black Kites and not Cape Verde Kites, as had been hoped. Furthermore, analysis of historical specimens of Cape Verde Kite collected between 1897 and 1924 (including the original specimen) suggests that Cape Verde Kite is not a species, but a Red Kite. Therefore, four kites reported on Boa Vista in March 2003 were presumably Black Kites.

Cape Verde Peregrine Falcon
Described as 'widespread but very rare' by Sargeant.

São Nicolau
One was seen between the airport and Tarrafal in March 2000

Santiago
Until 2004 a pair nested on a cliff at Riberia da Praia Formosa, north of Milho Branco, by the main road to Pedra Badejo, c4km north of the junction at Riberia Chiquerio. The other site where this species has been seen are the northeastern slopes of Pico do António viewed from near São Jorges dos Orgãos and the cliffs east of Praia.

Complete trip list

52 species (following taxonomy and nomenclature used at
Western Palearctic Birds)

Common Quail Coturnix coturnix conturbans
Helmeted Guineafowl Numida meleagris
Fea's Petrel Pterodroma feae feae
Cape Verde Shearwater Calonectris edwardsii
Cape Verde Little Shearwater Puffinus boydi
White-faced Storm-petrel Pelagodroma marina eadesi
Madeiran Storm-petrel Oceanodroma castro
Red-billed Tropicbird Phaethon authereus mesonauta
Brown Booby Sula leucogaster leucogaster
Magnificent Frigatebird Fregata magnificens
Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis ibis
Little Egret Egretta garzetta garzetta
Grey Heron Ardea cinerea
Purple Heron Ardea purpurea
Bourne's Heron Ardea bournei
Egyptian Vulture Neophron percnopterus percnopterus
Western Marsh Harrier Circus aeruginosus
Cape Verde Buzzard Buteo bannermani
Osprey Pandion haliaetus
Alexander's Kestrel Falco alexandri
Neglected Kestrel Falco neglectus
Black-winged Stilt Himantopus himantopus himantopus
Cream-colored Courser Cursorius cursor exsul
Common Ringed Plover Charadrius hiaticula
Kentish Plover Charadrius alexandrinus alexandrinus
Grey Plover Pluvialis squatarola
Sanderling Calidris alba
Little Stint Calidris minuta
Curlew Sandpiper Calidris ferruginea
Dunlin Calidris alpina
Whimbrel Numenius phaeopus phaeopus
Common Redshank Tringa totanus
Common Greenshank Tringa nebularia
Common Sandpiper Actitis hypoleucos
Ruddy Turnstone Arenaria interpres
Yellow-legged Gull Larus michahellis
Little Tern Sterna albifrons
Rock Dove Columba livia
Cape Verde Barn Owl Tyto detorta
Cape Verde Swift Apus alexandri
Grey-headed Kingfisher Halcyon leucocephala acteon
Black-crowned Finch Lark Eremopterix nigriceps nigriceps
Bar-tailed Desert Lark Ammomanes cinctura cinctura
Greater Hoopoe Lark Alaemon alaudipes boavistae
Raso Lark Alauda razae
Cape Verde Warbler Acrocephalus brevipennis
Spectacled Warbler Sylvia conspicillata orbitalis
Blackcap Sylvia atricapilla gularis
Brown-necked Raven Corvus ruficollis ruficollis
Spanish Sparrow Passer hispaniolensis hispaniolensis
Iago Sparrow Passer iagoensis
Common Waxbill Estrilda astrild jagoensis

Chris Batty March 2005

Branco

Helmeted Guineafowl

Fea's Petrel

White-faced Petrel (form eadesi)

Red-billed Tropicbird (form mesonauta)

Brown Booby

Magnificent Frigatebird

Purple Heron

Bourne's Heron

Alexander's Kestrel

Neglected Kestrel

Cream-coloured Courser (form exsul)

Cape Verde Barn Owl

Grey-headed Kingfisher (form acteon)

Black-crowned Finch Lark

Bar-tailed Lark

Greater Hoopoe Lark (form boavistae)

Raso Lark

Cape Verde Warbler

Brown-necked Raven

Iago Sparrow

images taken with a Canon 20D and Canon EF 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6L IS USM zoom lens or a Nikon Coolpix 4500 mounted to a Kowa TSN-823 using a London Camera Exchange SCE190/A3 adapter and a 20x wide angle eyepiece from the TSN-1 series telescopes coupled to the TSN-823 using a Kowa TSE-EC Eyepiece Converter


southern France 20th-25th January 2005

I visited southern France in late January 2005 to enjoy some exciting winter birding and see some new Western Palaearctic birds.
Michael Hoit, Keith Langdon and Tom Lowe accompanied me on the trip. We flew from Stansted Airport to Montpellier for £31.80 per person (including taxes) with Ryanair, where we picked up a Mercedes C200 hire car, booked through cheap-car-rental.com for £133.00 for 5 days. After spending the first night in an Etap Hotel in Nice (costing 46 Euro per room, with 2 people in each room) we travelled to Arles, where we stayed in the Etap Hotel Sud Fourchon for the rest of our trip (costing 128 Euro per room for 4 nights, with 2 people in each room).

This trip report is not intended to be a comprehensive guide to each site, and should be used in conjunction with some excellent existing trip reports. Reports by
Chris Batty and Jez Robson proved to be the most useful, and provide detailed directions for the target species. Other vital information was provided by Frank Dhermain and oiseauxprovence provided recent sightings.


Itinerary

Day one: flew from Stansted to Montpellier then drove to Nice
Day two: Nice (Jardin botanique de la Corniche Fleurie, Var River mouth), Cros-de-Cagnes (McDonald’s Restaurant), Les Baux de Provence, Hotel Mas d’Oulivie
Day three: Camargue (Romieu, Etang de Vaccares, le Sambuc, Mas Neuf, Plage de Piemanson)
Day four: Mas de Lauricet, Mont Ventoux, Pont du Gard
Day five: Eyguieres Airfield, La Jasse, Le Mas Chauvet, Entressen Dump, La Caume
Day six: Camargue (Romieu), Eyguieres Airfield, flew from Montpellier to Stansted


Sites for target species

Jardin botanique de la Corniche Fleurie, Nice: 5+ Indian Silverbills

McDonald’s Restaurant, Cros-de-Cagnes seafront: no sign of any Yelkouan Shearwaters

Les Baux de Provence: 4 Wallcreepers, 7+ Alpine Accentors (seen well around town) also 3 Blue Rock Thrushes

Hotel Mas d’Oulivie: Eurasian Eagle Owl at dusk

Romieu and Etang de Vaccares, Carmargue: juvenile Greater Spotted Eagle by the D36 road, half way between la Capelière and Villeneuve (crossing D36/D37) also 4 Black Storks, several Eurasian Penduline Tits, several Greater Flamingos

Plage de Piemanson, Camargue: 50+ Yelkouan Shearwaters seen in strong northwesterly winds

Mas de Lauricet: no sign of any Pine Buntings at dawn

Mont Ventoux: 2 Black Woodpeckers, 9 Alpine Accentors, no sign of any Citril Finches

Pont du Gard: c50 Rock Sparrows roosted at dusk

Eyguieres Airfield/La Jasse: 73 Little Bustards, Southern Grey Shrike, no sign of any Rock Buntings.

Le Mas Chauvet: 20+ Richard’s Pipits. South of the Etang d'Entressen take minor road to le Grand Mas/ Mas Chauvet (‘route de Mas Chauvet’). Continue to the end of the road, which becomes a gravel track at la Crau and view fields to south just before end of road.

Entressen Dump: 1st-winter Caspian Gull with 3,000+ Yellow-legged Gulls

La Caume: no sign of Bonelli’s Eagle or Citril Finches in poor weather


Complete trip list (following taxonomy and nomenclature used at
Western Palearctic Birds)

Mute Swan Cygnus olor
Common Shelduck Tadorna tadorna
Red-crested Pochard Netta rufina
Common Pochard Aythya ferina
Tufted Duck Aythya fuligula
Eurasian Wigeon Mareca penelope
Northern Shoveler Anas clypeata
Mallard Anas platyrhynchos
Common Teal Anas crecca
Red-legged Partridge Alectoris rufa
Common Pheasant Phasianus colchicus
Little Grebe Tachybaptus ruficollis
Great Crested Grebe Podiceps cristatus
Black-necked Grebe Podiceps nigricollis
Yelkouan Shearwater Puffinus yelkouan
Northern Gannet Morus bassanus
Great Cormorant Phalocrocorax carbo
Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis
Little Egret Egretta garzetta
Great Egret Casmerodius albus
Grey Heron Ardea cinerea
Black Stork Ciconia nigra
Greater Flamingo Phoenicopterus roseus
Red Kite Milvus milvus
Western Marsh Harrier Circus aeruginosus
Hen Harrier Circus cyaneus
Eurasian Sparrowhawk Accipiter nisus
Common Buzzard Buteo buteo
Greater Spotted Eagle Aquila clanga
Common Kestrel Falco tinnunculus
Merlin Falco columbarius
Peregrine Falcon Falco peregrinus
Water Rail Rallus aquaticus
Common Moorhen Gallinula chloropus
Eurasian Coot Fulica atra
Little Bustard Tetrax tetrax
Common Ringed Plover Charadrius hiaticula
Grey Plover Pluvialis squatarola
Northern Lapwing Vanellus vanellus
Dunlin Calidris alpina
Common Snipe Gallinago gallinago
Spotted Redshank Tringa erythropus
Common Greenshank Tringa nebularia
Green Sandpiper Tringa ochropus
Mediterranean Gull Larus melanocephalus
Black-headed Gull Larus ridibundus
Mew Gull Larus canus
Lesser Black-backed Gull Larus graellsii
Caspian Gull Larus cachinnans
Yellow-legged Gull Larus michahellis
Sandwich Tern Sterna sandvicensis
Rock Dove Columba livia
Stock Dove Columba oenas
Common Wood Pigeon Columba palumbus
Eurasian Collared Dove Streptopelia decaocto
Eurasian Eagle Owl Bubo bubo
Common Kingfisher Alcedo atthis
European Green Woodpecker Picus viridis
Black Woodpecker Dryocopus martius
Wood Lark Lullula arborea
Eurasian Skylark Alauda arvensis
Eurasian Crag Martin Ptyonoprogne rupestris
Richard’s Pipit Anthus richardi
Meadow Pipit Anthus pratensis
Water Pipit Anthus spinoletta
Grey Wagtail Motacilla cinerea
White Wagtail Motacilla alba
Winter Wren Troglodytes troglodytes
Dunnock Prunella modularis
Alpine Accentor Prunella collaris
European Robin Erithacus rubecula
Black Redstart Phoenicurus ochruros
European Stonechat Saxicola rubicola
Blue Rock Thrush Monticola solitarius
Common Blackbird Turdus merula
Fieldfare Turdus pilaris
Song Thrush Turdus philomelos
Mistle Thrush Turdus viscivorus
Cetti’s Warbler Cettia cetti
Zitting Cisticola Cisticola juncidis
Dartford Warbler Sylvia undata
Sardinian Warbler Sylvia melanocephala
Blackcap Sylvia atricapilla
Northern Chiffchaff Phylloscopus collybita
Goldcrest Regulus regulus
Bearded Reedling Panurus biarmicus
Long-tailed Tit Aegithalos caudatus
Crested Tit Parus cristatus
Coal Tit Parus ater
Blue Tit Parus caeruleus
Great Tit Parus major
Eurasian Nuthatch Sitta europaea
Wallcreeper Tichodroma muraria
Eurasian Penduline Tit Remiz pendulinus
Southern Grey Shrike Lanius meridionalis
Eurasian Jay Garrulus glandarius
Common Magpie Pica pica
Western Jackdaw Corvus monedula
Rook Corvus frugilegus
Carrion Crow Corvus corone
Common Raven Corvus corax
Common Starling Sturnus vulgaris
House Sparrow Passer domesticus
Eurasian Tree Sparrow Passer montanus
Rock Sparrow Petronia petronia
Indian Silverbill Euodice malabarica
Common Chaffinch Fringilla coelebs
Brambling Fringilla montifringilla
European Serin Serinus serinus
European Greenfinch Chloris chloris
European Goldfinch Carduelis carduelis
Common Linnet Carduelis cannabina
Common Crossbill Loxia curvirostra
Hawfinch Coccothraustes coccothraustes
Yellowhammer Emberiza citrinella
Cirl Bunting Emberiza cirlus
Common Reed Bunting Emberiza schoeniclus
Corn Bunting Emberiza calandra

Stuart Piner February 2005

Greater Spotted Eagle

Little Bustard

Yellow-legged Gull

Eurasian Eagle Owl

Alpine Accentor

Wallcreeper

all images taken with a Nikon Coolpix 4500 mounted to a Leica APO77 telescope with a London Camera Exchange adapter and 20x or 30x wide angle eyepieces


Armenia and Georgia 24th June-3rd July 2004

Situated in the extreme southeast of the Western Palearctic Armenia has been somewhat neglected as a birding destination. Overshadowed by it's larger neighbour Turkey, the closed border between the two countries has prevented the many birders who have visited eastern Turkey continuing east into Armenia. Hosting many of the specialities of eastern Turkey (including Caucasian Grouse, Mongolian Finch and Grey-necked Bunting), Armenia has an advantage in that the majority of the key birding sites are located within easy striking distance of the capital, Yerevan. In terms of accessible Western Palearctic birding Armenia hosts one endemic, Persian Wheatear.

Georgia lies adjacent to, and to the north of, Armenia and after reading a gripping account of a visit by
Phil Benstead (and noticing that Sunbird were leading tours to Georgia) I decided I must visit the area myself in search of the three Western Palearctic endemics found there: Caucasian Snowcock, Güldenstädt’s Redstart and Great Rosefinch.

After studying an itinerary offered by
Birdquest I decided that combining the excellent birding on offer in Armenia with the montane specialities of Georgia would make an excellent summer birding trip. Lee Evans, Andrew Holden and Tom Lowe accompanied me.

The
Collins Bird Guide covers the birds of Armenia and Georgia well but for extra information the 'Songbirds of Turkey' by C.S.Roselaar is useful.

I bought International Travel Maps for 'Armenia and Azerbaijan' and 'Georgia' for £7.95 each from
Stanfords but they are not very detailed and are not really necessary. A better map of Armenia is the Reference Map for the Birds of Armenia Project which can be purchased here.


Logistics

I found and booked flights online at
AOL Travel (this AOL Member service uses the travel agent Travelocity) for £305 per person including taxes and booking fee. We flew with Czech Airlines from London Stansted to Yerevan, Armenia (changing planes in Prague). Disappointingly Czech Airlines cancelled our outbound flight on 25th June less than a fortnight before we were due to fly and, worse still, cancelled our return flight without notifying us. This left us stranded in Yerevan on 3rd July and we were forced to make our own way home with Armenia International Airways to Paris then onward to England by a variety of planes and trains.

The cost of the whole trip, including visas, flights, taxes, booking fee, vehicles, drivers, fuel, guide, accommodation and food, came to £614.50 for the five day trip and £839.50 for the nine day trip (the nine day trip would have been cheaper per person had there been four people).

Armenia
Searching the internet I found several trip reports for Armenia at
OSME. Most useful were Simon Busuttil's accounts of tours to Armenia leading for Birdwatching Breaks (who have a useful itinerary) in 2000, 2000(?) and 2001. Otherwise Fatbirder gives a good overview of birding in the country whilst reports from the Birds of Armenia Project and an article by Martin Scott in Birding World Vol.10 No.5:190-195 provide as useful overview.

One thing that I immediately noticed from all these reports was the involvement of Armenian birder and guide
Vasil Ananian. I e-mailed Vasil and he was able to act as a guide and organise a 4x4 with driver. He also arranged twin rooms at Erebuni Hotel in Yerevan for £12.50 per person per night. I would not recommend organising a birding trip to Armenia without Vasil. A 4x4 is necessary to reach several key sites and permission is necessary to enter Armash Fishponds. There seemed to be a lack of road signs and none of the published information actually features directions to any of the sites.

Georgia
In an attempt to keep the cost of the whole trip under control I initially researched public transport from Yerevan to Tiblisi and found that there were both
trains and buses covering this route. However, as our schedule became squeezed by the change in flights I decided that speed and efficiency were more important factors than cost. I contacted a number of Georgian tourist agencies for quotes for a package consisting of 1) a private vehicle with driver to collect us from Yerevan Airport early on Monday morning and drive us (via the Armenia/Georgia border at Sadakhlo) to Kazbegi, returning via the same route departing Wednesday morning, 2) a 4x4 Lada Niva with driver to meet us in Gergeti village (adjacent to Kazbegi) and take us uphill to Gergeti Sameba Trinity Church. 3) beds in a private guesthouse in Gergeti village for Tuesday night. The best quote I received for this package was US$740 from Intourist-Caucasia with less competitive (or less convincing) quotes coming from Hans Heiner Buhr, Zaza Makharadze, Caucasus Travel, Visit Georgia, Levon Travel, Business for Species Recovery, GeorgiCa Travel, Levan Palavandishvili and Ramaz Gokhelashvili. In the event Intourist-Caucasia charged an extra US$100 because they had to scramble an Armenia driver and vehicle due to the electronic transfer of money from my bank account taking eight days to reach their account. I would recommend you arrange the transfer of money more than a fortnight in advance to avoid such a penalty.

Coincidentally, a week after we returned to Britain Peter Alfrey and Darryl Spittle published an informative article 'Birding the Greater Caucasus, Georgia' in
Birding World Vol.17 No.6:255-257.


Visas and exit taxes

Armenia
A visa is necessary to enter Armenia but this can be bought at Yerevan Airport on arrival. It seemed as if the only visas available were single entry visas and you have a choice of a transit visa (US$25 valid for 3 days) or a tourist visa (US$45 valid for 28 days).

When you check-in for your flight back to England at Yerevan Airport you are required to pay an 'exit tax' of 10,000 Armenian drams, or if you don't haven any drams, US$20.

Georgia
I was advised that on arrival in Georgia, it only possible to purchase an entry visa at Tbilisi Airport. As we would be arriving from Armenia it was therefore necessary to acquire our Georgian visas before leaving the UK. A visa can be acquired by sending your passport (must be valid for at least six months from date of visa application), a recent colour, passport-size photograph, a completed and signed application form (which can be downloaded
here) and a cheque for £12 (made payable to Embassy of Georgia) to Consular, Embassy of Georgia, 4 Russell Gardens, London W14 8EZ. During our period of application a Mr Constantine was in charge of visas at the embassy but he proved a tricky man to contact, persistence being required on the direct line to the embassy 020-76037799. You only require a tourist visa but to qualify for this (cheaper than other visas) you require a letter of introduction from your travel company featuring name(s), date of travel and the name of the receiving tourist organisation; our tourist agent in Georgia, Intourist-Caucasia, were able to fax this to the embassy on 020-76036682 at short notice. You can apply any time up to three months before travelling and I would strongly advise sorting it out well in advance; I didn't and as a result I had to travel to the embassy in person to collect our visas on the morning of our day of departure.


Itinerary

Due to the cancellation of our outbound flight our party of four were forced to split in two, myself and Tom flying out on 23rd June, Lee and Andrew joining us on 29th. Obviously this affected our itinerary but in the event Lee and Andrew saw almost everything in their five days.

With three of the four main target birds being present in Georgia we had originally intended to arrive in Armenia and head straight to Georgia leaving the birding in Armenia until the end of the trip. However, due to the change in the flights Tom and I spent four days birding in Armenia before we all travelled to Georgia. We then finished with the last two days of the trip birding in Armenia.

Wednesday flew London Stansted, via Prague, to Yerevan

Thursday arrived Yerevan at 5:30am, met at the airport by
Vasil Ananian in a Lada Niva 4x4 with driver Mamik. Dropped luggage at Erebuni Hotel, Yerevan town centre then birded Vedi Hills, Armash Fishponds, Vedi Hills then Victory Park, Yerevan. Slept at Erebuni Hotel.

Friday with Vasil and Mamik in Lada Niva we birded near Hrazdan, Dilijan and Lake Sevan. Slept at Erebuni Hotel.

Saturday with Vasil and Mamik in Lada Niva we birded Urts Mountains, Selim Pass and Lake Sevan. Slept at Erebuni Hotel.

Sunday with Vasil and Mamik in Lada Niva we birded near Hrazdan. Slept at Erebuni Hotel.

Monday taxi to Yerevan Airport to meet Lee and Andrew. Met by
Intourist-Caucasia Armenian driver and vehicle to drive us to Georgian border at Sadakhlo. Met at Sadakhlo by Intourist-Caucasia Georgian driver in Mercedes limousine. Driven to Gergeti village, arriving at 4pm. Dropped luggage in private guesthouse in Gergeti and driven in Lada Niva to Gergeti Sameba Trinity Church. Steep uphill walk for over 4 hours up the east slope of Mount Kazbek to camp below Gergeti Glacier (click here for a map kindly provided by Phil Benstead).

Tuesday birded below snout of Gergeti Glacier, walked down to Gergeti village. Slept in private guesthouse

Wednesday driven back to Yerevan. Slept at Erebuni Hotel.

Thursday met at Erebuni Hotel by
Vasil Ananian and new driver Ashot in 4x4 minibus we birded Urts Mountains, Armash Fishponds, Vedi Hills then Victory Park, Yerevan. Slept at Erebuni Hotel.

Friday with Vasil and driver Ashot in 4x4 minibus we birded Mount Aragats then Victory Park, Yerevan. Slept at Erebuni Hotel.

Saturday arrived at Yerevan Airport 3am,
Czech Airlines flight cancelled. Took Armenia International Airways flight to Paris Charles de Gaulle Airport, each making our own way home from there.


Sites in Armenia

Armash Fishponds
Located in the Arax Valley these fishponds form a superb wetland comprising of large square reed-fringed tanks used for breeding fish. The fishponds are private but Vasil has permission to enter. The ponds are teeming with birds, key species being White-headed Duck, White-tailed Lapwing (15+ pairs), Blue-cheeked Bee-eater (c100 around a colony), Paddyfield Warbler (several singing) and Ménétries’ Warbler (several singing). Other notable species we saw here included Pygmy Cormorant, Armenian Gull, Lesser Short-toed Lark, Black-headed Wagtail, Siberian Stonechat (form armenica), Savi’s Warbler, Eastern Olivaceous Warbler and Eurasian Penduline Tit.

Vedi Hills
An arid gorge with a natural spring attracting many passerines to drink. A 4x4 vheicle is necessary to reach the site. The key birds here are Mongolian Finch and Grey-necked Bunting but other species seen included Chukar, Egyptian Vulture, Short-toed Eagle, Long-legged Buzzard, Bimaculated Lark, Rufous-tailed Scrub Robin, Isabelline Wheatear, Finsch’s Wheatear, Upcher’s Warbler, Eastern Rock Nuthatch, Western Rock Nuthatch, Pale Rockfinch, Rock Sparrow, and Trumpeter Finch.

Urts Mountains
Another arid gorge, this is a recently discovered site for Persian Wheatear. A 4x4 vehicle is necessary to reach the site. Other highlights here were Chukar, Lammergeier, Egyptian Vulture, Long-legged Buzzard, Rufous-tailed Scrub Robin, White-throated Robin, Isabelline Wheatear, Eastern Black-eared Wheatear, Upcher’s Warbler, Eastern Orphean Warbler, Eastern Rock Nuthatch, Western Rock Nuthatch, Pale Rockfinch and Rock Bunting.

Mount Aragats
Mount Aragats offers excellent, easily accessible mountain birding. Highlights here included Radde's Accentor, Siberian Stonechat (form armenica) and Crimson-winged Finch. We were lucky to see Semi-collared Flycatcher along with Long-legged Buzzard, Lesser Spotted Eagle, Booted Eagle, Shore Lark, Alpine Accentor, Bluethroat, Isabelline Wheatear, Rufous-tailed Rock Thrush, Barred Warbler, Twite (form brevirostris), Common Rosefinch, Rock Bunting and Ortolan Bunting.

Hrazdan and Dilijan
The key bird here is Caucasian Grouse which, despite two days of searching, we failed to find. Late June and July are a bad time of the year to look for this species as the males are moulting and the females are on eggs. Green Warbler and Caucasian Chiffchaff are common on the wooded slopes and Semi-collared Flycatcher breeds near Dilijan. Other birds recorded here included Lammergeier, Egyptian Vulture, Eurasian Griffon Vulture, Long-legged Buzzard, Lesser Spotted Eagle, Booted Eagle, Armenian Gull, Water Pipit, Alpine Accentor, Rufous-tailed Rock Thrush, Twite (form brevirostris) and Common Rosefinch.

Lake Sevan and Selim Pass
Lake Sevan hosts the largest colony of Armenian Gulls in the world. Other attractions in the area include Citrine Wagtail, Barred Warbler, Caucasian Chiffchaff and Common Reed Bunting (form caspia). The nearby Selim Pass offers higher altitude species. Notable species between the sites being Ruddy Shelduck, Rufous-tailed Rock Thrush, Marsh Warbler, Eurasian Penduline Tit, Rock Sparrow, Twite (form brevirostris) and Common Rosefinch.

Victory Park, Yerevan
The star birds at Victory Park were showy Levant Sparrowhawks and Syrian Woodpeckers.

Lake Arpi
In the remote northwest of the country, Lake Arpi did not feature in our itinerary. Dalmatian pelican occurs but is not guaranteed, Citrine Wagtails have recently been found here.

Vardenis Mountains
This is a site for Caspian Snowcock, although we did not visit (having seen this elusive species in
Turkey in 2003).


Sites in Georgia

Mount Kazbek and Kazbegi
Climbing up the slopes of Mount Kazbek to the snout of the Gergeti Glacier seems to be the easiest way to find Caucasian Snowcock, Güldenstädt’s Redstart and Great Rosefinch during the summer months. Earlier in the year (May seems most popular), when the snowline is lower, all these birds can be found at lower altitudes within easy reach of roads. In summer it is necessary to walk up to a higher altitude.

From the 4x4 drop-off point at Gergeti Sameba Trinity Church it took us over four hours of arduous uphill walking to reach c3,000 masl (metres above sea level) where we slept overnight in sleeping bags inside the waterproof
Blizzard Survival Bags we had invested in before the trip. We were probably unlucky with the weather as when dusk fell torrential rainfall started, and didn't stop until dawn. At dawn it began to snow and we were then subjected to blizzards for almost the entire time we spent searching the boulder fields and scree below the Gergeti Glacier for our three target birds. Despite this we located 3 Güldenstädt’s Redstarts (2 singing males and a female), 4 Great Rosefinches (a singing male and a party of 1 male and 2 females) and - when the low cloud lifted briefly - 2 Caucasian Snowcocks were seen briefly on a crag (although we had earlier heard at least 6 others calling). In the event, the poor weather may possibly have been a blessing in disguise as it may have forced the Güldenstädt’s Redstarts lower, as some literature suggests that in the summer months they occur only above 3,600 masl.

On the descent to Gergeti village the birch woodlands held many Green Warblers and Caucasian Chiffchaffs. Other abundant birds in the area included Eurasian Griffon Vulture, Alpine Swift, Shore Lark, Eurasian Crag Martin, Water Pipit, Alpine Accentor, Black Redstart, Alpine Chough, Red-billed Chough, White-winged Snowfinch, Red-fronted Serin, Common Crossbill and Common Rosefinch.

As in Armenia, Caucasian Grouse eluded us at Kazbegi. In May they have been described as common in the general area with seemingly every suitable slope being occupied. They apparently favour steep slopes between 1,500 and 3,000 masl in the transition zone where birch woodland meet areas of dwarf rhododendron scrub and boulder-strewn slopes. From mid June, when display finishes, until September this species is extremely difficult to locate.

David-Gereja
Southeast of Rusthavi, near the border with Azerbaijan, this area of rocky steppe supports Eurasian Black Vulture, Imperial Eagle, Pied Wheatear and perhaps Saker but we did not have time to visit.


Selected target birds

Caucasian Snowcock
Georgia: from the literature we knew this species occurs commonly on steep slopes with rocky outcrops and scree at 3,000-4,000 masl and we were advised they are considerably commoner through their range than Caspian Snowcock is in e.g. Turkey and that they are not usually too difficult to see. During May they can sometimes be seen distantly on the crags from Kazbegi town. By late June it is necessary to explore at higher altitude and the easiest way of reaching the required height seems to be by following the steep grassy ridge west (uphill) from the Gergeti Sameba Trinity Church for around 4 hours until you drop down slightly into an area off scree and boulder fields (click
here for a map). We heard at least 8 snowcocks singing from many of the high crags in this area and saw 2 together on crags on the left before you drop into the boulder fields.

Lammergeier
Armenia: at least 1 flew over the gorge in the Urts Mountains and another was seen near Hrazdan

Levant Sparrowhawk
Armenia: a pair present in Victory Park, Yerevan gave superb views.

Lesser Spotted Eagle
Armenia: we saw at least 3 in the hills near Hrazdan and at least 2 over the lower slopes of Mount Aragats.

White-tailed Lapwing
Armenia: the private Armash Fishponds is the only regular site in Armenia

Armenian Gull
Armenia: very Common at Lake Sevan with a huge colony on the western shore at Gull Island. Also seen at Armash Fishponds and at the roadside.
Georgia: present on the River Kura in Tiblisi

Blue-cheeked Bee-eater
Armenia: we located a colony, perhaps hosting more than 25 birds, in a bund at the private Armash Fishponds.

Syrian Woodpecker
Armenia: 2 were seen in Victory Park, Yerevan.

Citrine Wagtail
Armenia: at least 2 at Lake Sevan, a new site for this rare species in Armenia.

Radde’s Accentor
Armenia: a family showed very well on the lower slopes of Mount Aragats.

White-throated Robin
Armenia: several seen in a gorge in the Urts Mountains

Güldenstädt’s Redstart
Georgia: 3 (2 singing males and a female) were seen on Mount Kazbek in the boulder fields below the snout of the Gergeti Glacier.

Siberian Stonechat
Armenia: a juvenile male was present by the entrance track to Armash Fishponds and a pair was seen on the lower slopes of Mount Aragats. Also several European Stonechats noted.

Finsch’s Wheatear
Armenia: present in Vedi Hills

Persian Wheatear
Armenia: 2 were seen in a gorge in the Urts Mountains. Previously it was necessary to visit quarries by the Iranian border near Meghri for this species. Meghri is about a 12 hour drive from Yerevan.

Paddyfield Warbler
Armenia: several were singing in the reeds at the private Armash Fishponds.

Upcher’s Warbler
Armenia: present in arid areas in Vedi Hills and Urts Mountains.

Ménétries’s Warbler
Armenia: several were singing in the reeds at the private Armash Fishponds and once in reeds by the roadside.

Green Warbler
Armenia: very common in woods near Hrazdan.
Georgia: common in the birch woodland by the track between Gergeti and Gergeti Sameba Trinity Church.

Caucasian Chiffchaff
Armenia: common in woods near Hrazdan and at Lake Sevan.
Georgia: common in the birch woodland by the track between Gergeti and Gergeti Sameba Trinity Church.

Semi-collared Flycatcher
Armenia: a recently fledged juvenile was seen in the woods at Dilijan. More satisfactory was a male in poplars on the lower slopes of Mount Aragats.

Eastern Rock Nuthatch
Armenia: present in arid gorges in Vedi Hills and Urts Mountains.

Pale Rockfinch
Armenia: present in arid gorges in Vedi Hills and Urts Mountains.

Red-fronted Serin
Georgia: present on Mount Kazbek and by the Georgian Military Highway south of Kazbegi.

Crimson-winged Finch
Armenia: at least 3 seen on the lower slopes of Mount Aragats

Mongolian Finch
Armenia: the Vedi Hills are the only site in Armenia for this species and we saw a pair here, although they required time to locate. First discovered here in 2001 and present again in 2002 and 2004.

Great Rosefinch
Georgia: We knew this species to breed from mid July at 3,000-3,500 masl, feeding below the snow and glacier line in alpine meadows at 2,500-2,700 masl. We saw 4 (a single male and a party of male and 2 females) on Mount Kazbek in the boulder fields below the snout of the Gergeti Glacier.

Grey-necked Bunting
Armenia: we saw at least 4 in the Vedi Hills.

Postscript

Shortly after we returned home Georgia made the
BBC News with renewed threats of conflict. If you are planning a trip it is well worth keeping an eye on the travel advice issued by the Foreign Office.


Complete trip list of 199 species (following taxonomy and nomenclature used at
Western Palearctic Birds)

Ruddy Shelduck Tadorna ferruginea
Red-crested Pochard Netta rufina
Common Pochard Aythya ferina
Ferruginous Duck Aythya nyroca
White-headed Duck Oxyura leucocephala
Gadwall Mareca strepera strepera
Eurasian Wigeon Mareca penelope
Northern Shoveler Anas clypeata
Mallard Anas platyrhynchos platyrhynchos
Northern Pintail Anas acuta acuta
Garganey Anas querquedula
Common Teal Anas crecca crecca
Caucasian Snowcock Tetraogallus caucasicus
Chukar Alectoris chukar
Common Quail Coturnix coturnix coturnix
Little Grebe Tachybaptus ruficollis capensis
Great Crested Grebe Podiceps cristatus cristatus
Pygmy Cormorant Microcarbo pygmeus
Little Bittern Ixobrychus minutus minutus
Black-crowned Night Heron Nycticorax nycticorax nycticorax
Squacco Heron Ardeola ralloides
Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis ibis
Little Egret Egretta garzetta garzetta
Grey Heron Ardea cinerea cinerea
Purple Heron Ardea purpurea purpurea
White Stork Ciconia ciconia ciconia
Glossy Ibis Plegadis falcinellus falcinellus
Eurasian Spoonbill Platalea leucorodia leucorodia
European Honey Buzzard Pernis apivorus
Black Kite Milvus migrans migrans
Lammergeier Gypaetus barbatus aureus
Egyptian Vulture Neophron percnopterus percnopterus
Eurasian Griffon Vulture Gyps fulvus fulvus
Short-toed Eagle Circaetus gallicus gallicus
Western Marsh Harrier Circus aeruginosus aeruginosus
Eurasian Sparrowhawk Accipiter nisus nisus
Levant Sparrowhawk Accipiter brevipes
Common Buzzard Buteo buteo menetriesi
Long-legged Buzzard Buteo rufinus rufinus
Lesser Spotted Eagle Aquila pomarina pomarina
Golden Eagle Aquila chrysaetos homeyeri
Booted Eagle Hieraaetus pennatus
Common Kestrel Falco tinnunculus tinnunculus
Eurasian Hobby Falco subbuteo subbuteo
Peregrine Falcon Falco peregrinus brookei
Water Rail Rallus aquaticus aquaticus
Common Moorhen Gallinula chloropus chloropus
Eurasian Coot Fulica atra atra
Black-winged Stilt Himantopus himantopus himantopus
Collared Pratincole Glareola pratincola pratincola
Little Ringed Plover Charadrius dubius curonicus
Kentish Plover Charadrius alexandrinus alexandrinus
White-tailed Lapwing Vanellus leucurus
Northern Lapwing Vanellus vanellus
Little Stint Calidris minuta
Ruff Philomachus pugnax
Common Redshank Tringa totanus
Common Greenshank Tringa nebularia
Green Sandpiper Tringa ochropus
Common Sandpiper Actitis hypoleucos
Black-headed Gull Larus ridibundus
Armenian Gull Larus armenicus
Gull-billed Tern Gelochelidon nilotica nilotica
Common Tern Sterna hirundo hirundo
Little Tern Sterna albifrons albifrons
Whiskered Tern Chlidonias hybrida hybrida
White-winged Tern Chlidonias leucopterus
Rock Dove Columba livia
Stock Dove Columba oenas oenas
Common Wood Pigeon Columba palumbus
Eurasian Collared Dove Streptopelia decaocto decaocto
European Turtle Dove Streptopelia turtur
Laughing Dove Streptopelia senegalensis
Common Cuckoo Cuculus canorus canorus
Little Owl Athene noctua indigena
Common Swift Apus apus
Alpine Swift Apus melba melba
Common Kingfisher Alcedo atthis atthis
Blue-cheeked Bee-eater Merops persicus persicus
European Bee-eater Merops apiaster
European Roller Coracias garrulus
Eurasian Hoopoe Upupa epops epops
Great Spotted Woodpecker Dendrocopos major tenuirostris
Syrian Woodpecker Dendrocopos syriacus transcaucasicus
Bimaculated Lark Melanocorypha bimaculata bimaculata
Greater Short-toed Lark Calandrella brachydactyla artemisiana
Lesser Short-toed Lark Calandrella rufescens pseudobaetica
Crested Lark Galerida cristata subtaurica
Wood Lark Lullula arborea pallida
Eurasian Skylark Alauda arvensis armenica
Shore Lark Eremophila alpestris penicillata
Sand Martin Riparia riparia riparia
Eurasian Crag Martin Ptyonoprogne rupestris
Barn Swallow Hirundo rustica rustica
Common House Martin Delichon urbica
Tawny Pipit Anthus campestris boehmei
Tree Pipit Anthus trivialis trivalis
Meadow Pipit Anthus pratensis
Water Pipit Anthus spinoletta coutellii
Black-headed Wagtail Motacilla feldegg
Citrine Wagtail Motacilla citreola
Grey Wagtail Motacilla cinerea cinerea
White Wagtail Motacilla alba dukhunensis
White-throated Dipper Cinclus cinclus caucasicus
Winter Wren Troglodytes troglodytes
Dunnock Prunella modularis obscura
Radde’s Accentor Prunella ocularis
Alpine Accentor Prunella collaris montana
Rufous-tailed Scrub Robin Cercotrichas galactotes familiaris
European Robin Erithacus rubecula caucasicus
Common Nightingale Luscinia megarhynchos africana
Bluethroat Luscinia svecica magna
White-throated Robin Irania gutturalis
Black Redstart Phoenicurus ochruros ochruros
Common Redstart Phoenicurus phoenicurus samamisicus
Güldenstädt’s Redstart Phoenicurus erythrogaster erythrogaster
Whinchat Saxicola rubetra
European Stonechat Saxicola rubicola rubicola
Siberian Stonechat Saxicola maura armenica
Isabelline Wheatear Oenanthe isabellina
Northern Wheatear Oenanthe oenanthe libanotica
Eastern Black-eared Wheatear Oenanthe melanoleuca
Finsch’s Wheatear Oenanthe finschii
Persian Wheatear Oenanthe chrysopygia
Rufous-tailed Rock Thrush Monticola saxatilis
Blue Rock Thrush Monticola solitarius
Ring Ouzel Turdus torquatus amicorum
Common Blackbird Turdus merula
Song Thrush Turdus philomelos philomelos
Mistle Thrush Turdus viscivorus viscivorus
Cetti’s Warbler Cettia cetti orientalis
Savi’s Warbler Locustella luscinioides
Sedge Warbler Acrocephalus schoenobaenus
Paddyfield Warbler Acrocephalus agricola
Marsh Warbler Acrocephalus palustris
Reed Warbler Acrocephalus scripaceus fuscus
Great Reed Warbler Acrocephalus arundinaceus arundinaceus
Eastern Olivaceous Warbler Acrocephalus pallidus tamariceti
Upcher’s Warbler Hippolais languida
Ménétries’s Warbler Sylvia mystacea mystacea
Eastern Orphean Warbler Sylvia crassirostris
Barred Warbler Sylvia nisoria
Lesser Whitethroat Sylvia curruca caucasica
Common Whitethroat Sylvia communis icterops
Garden Warbler Sylvia borin woodwardi
Blackcap Sylvia atricapilla
Green Warbler Phylloscopus nitidus
Northern Chiffchaff Phylloscopus collybita
Caucasian Chiffchaff Phylloscopus lorenzii
Spotted Flycatcher Muscicapa striata striata
Semi-collared Flycatcher Ficedula semitorquata
Bearded Reedling Panurus biarmicus
Coal Tit Parus ater
Blue Tit Parus caeruleus
Great Tit Parus major major
Eurasian Nuthatch Sitta europaea caucasica
Eastern Rock Nuthatch Sitta tephronota obscura
Western Rock Nuthatch Sitta neumayer rupicola
Eurasian Treecreeper Certhia familiaris caucasica
Eurasian Penduline Tit Remiz pendulinus menzbieri
Eurasian Golden Oriole Oriolus oriolus oriolus
Red-backed Shrike Lanius collurio kobylini
Lesser Grey Shrike Lanius minor
Woodchat Shrike Lanius senator niloticus
Eurasian Jay Garrulus glandarius
Common Magpie Pica pica
Alpine Chough Pyrrhocorax graculus graculus
Red-billed Chough Pyrrhocorax pyrrhocorax docilis
Western Jackdaw Corvus monedula soemmerringii
Rook Corvus frugilegus frugilegus
Hooded Crow Corvus cornix
Common Raven Corvus corax corax
Common Starling Sturnus vulgaris purpurascens
Rose-coloured Starling Sturnus roseus
House Sparrow Passer domesticus mayaudi
Eurasian Tree Sparrow Passer montanus transcaucasicus
Pale Rockfinch Petronia brachydactyla
Rock Sparrow Petronia petronia exigua
White-winged Snowfinch Montifringilla nivalis alpicola
Common Chaffinch Fringilla coelebs caucasica
Red-fronted Serin Serinus pusillus
European Greenfinch Chloris chloris loudoni
European Goldfinch Carduelis carduelis
Common Linnet Carduelis cannabina bella
Twite Carduelis flavirostris brevirostris
Common Crossbill Loxia curvirostra caucasica
Crimson-winged Finch Rhodopechys sanguinea sanguinea
Mongolian Finch Bucanetes mongolicus
Trumpeter Finch Bucanetes githagineus crassirostris
Common Rosefinch Carpodacus erythrinus kubanensis
Great Rosefinch Carpodacus rubicilla rubicilla
Eurasian Bullfinch Pyrrhula pyrrhula rossikowi
Hawfinch Coccothraustes coccothraustes nigricans
Rock Bunting Emberiza cia prageri
Ortolan Bunting Emberiza hortulana
Grey-necked Bunting Emberiza buchanani cerrutii
Common Reed Bunting Emberiza schoeniclus caspia
Black-headed Bunting Emberiza melanocephala
Corn Bunting Emberiza calandra calandra

Chris Batty July 2004

Mount Ararat

White-headed Duck

Chukar

Levant Sparrowhawk

Lesser Spotted Eagle

White-tailed Lapwing

Armenian Gulls

Blue-cheeked Bee-eater

European Roller

Syrian Woodpecker (form transcaucasicus)

Shore Lark (form penicillata)

Citrine Wagtail

Radde's Accentor

Rufous-tailed Scrub Robin (form familiaris)

Bluethroat (form magna)

Black Redstart (nominate form ochruros)

Finsch's Wheatear

Persian Wheatear

Rufous-tailed Rock Thrush

Ménétries's Warbler

Barred Warbler

Eastern Rock Nuthatch (form obscura)

Red-backed Shrike (form kobylini)

Pale Rockfinch

Rock Sparrow (form exigua)

Twite (form brevirostris)

Mongolian Finch

Trumpeter Finch (form crassirostris)

Common Rosefinch (form kubanesis)

Grey-necked Bunting (form cerrutii)

Common Reed Bunting (form caspia)

all images taken with a Nikon Coolpix 4500 mounted to a Kowa TSN-823 using a London Camera Exchange SCE190/A3 adapter and a 20x wide angle eyepiece from the TSN-1 series telescopes coupled to the TSN-823 using a Kowa TSE-EC Eyepiece Converter or through Leica 10x42BA binoculars


Turkey 16th-22nd June 2004

In June 2004 we spent six days in Turkey accompanied by Lee Evans, Robert Fuge and Geoff Goater. The trip, organised by Lee, was largely inspired by
Chris Batty's trip report which covers the week he spent in south-central Turkey in June 2003; Chris’s report proved to be an essential reference throughout.

We left Luton at 7.30pm on Tuesday 15th arriving in Antalya at c2am local time. We arrived back in Britain at 7.30pm the following Tuesday. The total cost of the trip was c£400 including flights, car hire, petrol, accommodation and food.

The intention of this report is to update, where necessary, Chris Batty’s trip report and to provide details, in a complimentary format, of any new locations or species.


Literature

'Finding Birds in Western Turkey' by Dave Gosney
'Finding Birds in Eastern Turkey' by Dave Gosney
'Finding Birds in Turkey: Ankara to Birecik' by Dave Gosney
(all ‘Gosney Guides’ can be purchased from
Birdguides with updates posted here)
'A Birdwatchers’ Guide to Turkey' by Ian Green & Nigel Moorhouse
GeoCenter 1:750,000 Euromap
Collins Bird Guide
south central Turkey 23rd-29th June 2003 by Chris Batty


Itinerary

Tuesday flew Luton to Antalya arriving early Wednesday morning

Wednesday drove to Akeski for dawn, Akeski, drove through Konya to Karapinar craters, Eregli Marshes*, drove to Demirkazik; slept at Safak Pension

Thursday tractor ride up Demirkazik for dawn, walked down to Demirkazik Mountain Centre, drove to Adana, Isikli, then Birecik ‘owl café’; slept at Otel Merkalam (by petrol station west of bridge in Birecik)

Friday Birecik, Halfeti, drove to Cizre; slept at Hotel Grand Onsar

Saturday Cizre, drove to Van Golu, Serpmetas; slept at Hotel Bayram in Van

Sunday Van Hills, Ercek Golu, drove to Nemrut Dagi, Narince; slept in Golbasi

Monday drove to Col Golu, Sultan Marshes, Goksu Delta; slept at Hotel Fatih in Tasucu

Tuesday drove to Antalya via Tasagil stopping intermittently on road side

*We attempted to find Eregli Marshes by following the directions in Gosney (page 9 site 4), and although most of the area has been turned over to agriculture, an area of open water and marshes was viewable extremely distantly to the north. This held large numbers of White Stork and Western Marsh Harrier, plus a distant pelican (almost certainly Great White) in flight.

Below is a list of target birds seen. It is presumed that you will be using this report in conjunction with Chris Batty’s and the three Gosney Guides which cover the region.


Target birds

Ruddy Shelduck
Karapinar: 3 at Krater Golu; this was signposted south from road 330 east of Karapinar.
Col Golu: not seen at this site
Van Golu: seen at various points at north side of lake including 84 1.5km southwest of Ahlat
Ercek Golu: present around the lake, and seen in flight between there and Van Hills. Also Marsh Warbler, Black-necked Grebe
Goksu Delta: (as per Chris Batty). Also Red-crested Pochard, Marbled Duck, Eurasian Spoonbill, Purple Heron.

Caspian Snowcock
Demirkazik: according to Hasan Safak, the chromium mine was inaccessible due to heavy snowfall; instead we were taken to the base of the crags at the top of the gorge above the Mountain Centre (Moore & Greenhouse p40, site 1 on map). Here we had views of 3 Snowcocks on the rocks above us, with more calling, plus a second burst of activity 1-1.5 hours after dawn, when birds were closer (including several at the top of the gorge). Also Golden Eagle, Shore Lark, Crag Martin, Rufous-tailed Rock Thrush, Ring Ouzel, Black Redstart.

Chukar
Demirkazik: seen near the top of the track from the Mountain Centre to the crags (Gosney Ankara to Birecik page 12 site 4). Also Ortolan Bunting, Lesser Whitethroat, Rock Sparrow, Rock Bunting, Tawny Pipit.
This species also heard (but not looked for) at Cizre, Van Hills and Nemrut Dagi

See-see Partridge
Birecik: several in the ‘Main Wadi’ (as per Chris Batty)

Black Francolin
Goksu Delta: one male near the Observation Tower southwest of Akgol (Gosney Ankara to Birecik page 23 site 4).

Scopoli's Shearwater
Goksu Delta: several close inshore south of Gosney Ankara to Birecik page 23 site 4.

Pygmy Cormorant
Birecik (as per Chris Batty).
Sultan Marshes: as the viewing tower north of Ovaciftlik village has been destroyed, the marshes are no longer viewable from here; we declined the offer of a boat trip. Kanal II also unsuitable (as per Chris Batty)

Egyptian Vulture
Col Golu: 2 by the roadside west of Kanal II (this is the second canal reached by driving east from road 805).
Also seen at several roadside stops (e.g. west southwest of Konya, between Cizre and Siirt, west of Diyarbakir).

Long-legged Buzzard
Seen on several occasions by the roadside.

Eleonora's Falcon
Birecik: a single carrying food along the river just north of the bridge at dawn.
Goksu Delta: a dark morph seen from the tower hide (as per Chris Batty).
Ucari: a 2nd calendar-year bird from road 400 c10km east of the village

Grey-headed Swamp-hen
Goksu Delta: at least 9 at Akgol (directions as per Chris Batty)

Greater Sand Plover
Col Golu: located by following Chris Batty’s directions. However, we obtained excellent views of 23 including 6 juveniles by turning north immediately after Kanal II and driving 3.5km north-northeast across the salt steppe.

Spur-winged Lapwing
Cizre: one north of the town by the northernmost Red-wattled Lapwing site (see above)
Goksu Delta: in fields just southeast of the holiday village.

Red-wattled Lapwing
Cizre: we did not see any from the bridge over the River Tigris, and the police were not keen on us looking south towards Syria. Heading north towards Sirnak along the west side of the river, we stopped just past the army barracks (before the road bears left along the river) and had excellent views of a pair.
One bird was also located at a site a further 1.5km north along the Tigris, which may be useful if there are any security issues in the town itself: shortly after where the road bears north again, there is a large gravel island in the river, and the bird was on the western shore. Also Collared Pratincole, Little Tern, and a large European Bee-eater colony, plus Common Kingfisher between there and Sirnak.

Slender-billed Gull
Ercek Golu: eleven in flight over the road.

Audouin’s Gull
Imamli: A fortuitous encounter with a 3rd-summer at the roadside from the layby 5km southeast of the village during a toilet stop.

Armenian Gull
Van Golu: very common around the entire shore, especially at Bendihami Marshes (Gosney Eastern Turkey)

Laughing Dove
Birecik/Halfeti: one by the roadside between these sites.
Golbasi: single in the town centre.

Pallid Scops Owl
Birecik: in the usual tea garden (Gosney Ankara to Birecik page 22 site 8). We saw a pair feeding a single juvenile at the nest, in the dead tree 10m west of the fountain after dark, and excellent views of both species of scops owl feeding by the streetlights on the main road immediately west of here. Also one adult roosting near the nest by day. Also 4+ Long-eared Owls.

European Scops Owl
Demirkazik: heard singing by night near the Mountain Lodge
Birecik: at least one around the tea garden after dark.

Little Swift
Birecik: seen around the colony (as per Chris Batty), also in the ‘Main Wadi’.
Halfeti: superb views from the restaurant overlooking the flooded river in the town.

White-throated Kingfisher
Adana: at least 3 were seen at the site described by Chris Batty.

Pied Kingfisher
Birecik: heard just north of the bridge. One seen to the south (as per Chris Batty). Also several Ferruginous Ducks, Squacco Herons.
Cizre: 3 south of the bridge.

Syrian Woodpecker
Akseki: present and vocal in both the graveyard (as per Chris Batty). Also around the ‘Walled Plantation’ (Gosney Ankara to Birecik page 30 site 1). Also at a number of other sites, e.g. Isikli and several sites around Birecik.

White-backed Woodpecker
Akseki: a male at the 'new' site (Gosney Ankara to Birecik page 32 site 4). Also Common Redstart of form samamisicus.

Calandra Lark
Konya: common east of the town. Also Lesser Kestrel.
Common in most agricultural areas anywhere further east from there.

Bimaculated Lark
Karapinar: 3 at Krater Golu; this was signposted south from road 330 east of Karapinar.
Van Hills: at least 2 in field east of the Quarry (Gosney Eastern Turkey page 14 site 2)

Asian Short-toed Lark
Konya: 10+ (including a pair coming to a nest) along a track running south from road 330 14km east of the edge of town.
Col Golu: common (as per Chris Batty),

Black-headed Wagtail
Van Golu: common in marshy areas around the lake shores.
Sultan Marshes: present between the teahouse (Gosney Ankara to Birecik page 6 site 2) and Ovaciftlik.

Citrine Wagtail
Van Golu: a male at a roadside marsh 1.5km southwest of Ahlat. Also Garganey, Black-crowned Night Heron

White-spectacled Bulbul
Adana: 15+ at the White-throated Kingfisher site (as per Chris Batty)
Imamli: common along road 400 southeast of here.
Tasagil: one in the orchard (Gosney Western Turkey page 20 site 1).

Radde's Accentor
Demirkazik: two adults and four juveniles at the base of the crags, southeast of the top of the gorge showed down to 2 feet.

Alpine Accentor
Demirkazik: one on the crags, southeast of the top of the gorge.

Rufous-tailed Scrub Robin
Isikli; several in the orchard (Gosney Ankara to Birecik page 18, area marked UW). Also along the road between here and road 400.
Birecik: several in the ‘Main Wadi’ (Gosney page 19 site 2), at the gravel pits (Gosney Ankara to Birecik page 22 site 11) and along the river south of the town.
Narince: (as per Chris Batty)
Tasagil: one in the orchard (Gosney Western Turkey page 20 site 1). Also Spanish Sparrow

White-throated Robin
Isikli: a female feeding a fledgling in an orchard east of the road 2.5km north of Isikli. Also Syrian Woodpecker, Calandra Lark.
Nemrut Dagi: a male gave superb views right of the road 3km before the summit car park (as per Chris Batty).

Isabelline Wheatear
(as per Chris Batty)

Finsch's Wheatear
Demirkazik: two pairs and an additional male along the track running southeast from the Mountain Centre (Gosney Ankara to Birecik page 12 site 4).
Van Hills: seen on the hill south of the quarry; also near the railway track (Gosney Eastern Turkey page 14 site 3).

Red-tailed Wheatear
Nemrut Dagi (as per Chris Batty). Also Rufous-tailed Rock Thrush, Shore Lark, Rock Sparrow.

Graceful Prinia
Birecik: common around the gravel works (as per Chris Batty), also along the river south of the town.
Goksu Delta: seen southeast of the holiday village; also by the observation tower (Gosney Ankara to Birecik page 24 site 4).

Moustached Warbler
Sultan Marshes (as per Chris Batty)

Upcher's Warbler
Isikli: at the eastern edge of the orchard (Gosney Ankara to Birecik page 18 site 6).
Birecik: in the ‘Main Wadi’ (as per Chris Batty)

Olive-tree Warbler
Narince: at least three (as per Chris Batty)

Ménétries's Warbler
Birecik: common in the ‘Main Wadi’ (as per Chris Batty)

Rüppell's Warbler
Akseki: on the hillside north of the ‘Walled Plantation’ (Gosney Ankara to Birecik page 30 site 1).
Tasagil: not seen in this area (Gosney Western Turkey page 20 site 1)

Eastern Orphean Warbler
Akeski: a pair and at least two juveniles around ‘Walled Plantation’ (Gosney Ankara to Birecik page 30 site 1).
Narince: several (as per Chris Batty).
Tasagil: a pair in the orchard (Gosney Western Turkey page 20 site 1).

Sombre Tit
Akeski: present around ‘Walled Plantation’ (Gosney Ankara to Birecik page 30 site 1). Not seen in either the graveyard opposite the stadi nor at the 'new' site, where the species was noted by Chris Batty.
Isikli: one in the orchard (Gosney Ankara to Birecik page 18 site 6).
Narince: one (as per Chris Batty)

Krüper's Nuthatch
Akeski: common around the 'new' site (as per Chris Batty)

Eastern Rock Nuthatch
Isikli: several one in the orchard and further up the valley (Gosney page 18 site 6). Also Blue Rock Thrush.
Sirnak: seen at several sites on the roadside between here and Siirt (road 370). Also Blue Rock Thrush.

Western Rock Nuthatch
(as per Chris Batty)

Lesser Grey Shrike
Akseki: one near the ‘Walled Plantation’ (Gosney Ankara to Birecik page 30 site 1)
Demirkazik: one south of the village

Masked Shrike
Akseki: a pair near the ‘Walled Plantation’ (Gosney; Ankara to Birecik page 30 site 1), and two in the graveyard (Gosney; Ankara to Birecik page 30 site 2). Also several Long-tailed Tits (form tephronotus) just south of the village and Blue Rock Thrush
Tasagil: 2 just north of site 1 (Gosney Western Turkey page 20)

Rose-coloured Starling
Van Golu: 350+ around the quarry 7km east of Heybetli. Also Rock Sparrow

Dead Sea Sparrow
Birecik: common (as per Chris Batty)

Pale Rockfinch
Isikli: one singing and at least one carrying food in the valley (Gosney Ankara to Birecik page 18 site 6).
Eruh: several singing and showing well c19km south of the village on road 370, where the road climbs an orange-brown hillside with scattered bushes.
Van Hills: Common on the hillsides south of the quarry and around the railway cutting (Gosney Eastern Turkey page 14)
Van Golu: Several singing from the hillside north of the road near the quarry 8km east of Heybetli. Also Tawny Pipit
Nemrut Dagi: 2+ singing c2.5km from the summit car park (as per Chris Batty).

Chestnut-shouldered Petronia
Birecik: common in the orchards on the road to Halfeti (Gosney; Ankara to Birecik page 20, just north of site 4).

White-winged Snowfinch
Demirkazik: common around the crags above the gorge, and along the track from the Mountain Centre.
Serpmetas: one on the lava fields east of the village. Serpmetas is reached by turning west of the road 975 in Caldiran (just before the army barracks). The lava fields are approx 5.5km along this minor road and extend a further 1.5km, as far as Serpmetas village. Also Short-toed Eagle, Black Redstart and singing Common Quail but no Twite.
Nemrut Dagi: present around the summit car park (as per Chris Batty)

Red-fronted Serin
Demirkazik: common around the base of the crags and along the track from the Mountain Centre.

Crimson-winged Finch
Demirkazik: a pair around the base of the crags, also along the track from the Mountain Centre.
Serpmetas: a pair on the lava fields east of the village. Serpmetas is reached by turning west of the road 975 in Caldiran (just before the army barracks), the lava fields beginning after 5.5km.

Desert Finch
Birecik: single at the gravel works (as per Chris Batty). Also one in the orchards on the road to Halfeti (Gosney Ankara to Birecik page 20 just north of site 4).
Halfeti: two at the edge of the flooded river, near the restaurant in the town.

Mongolian Finch
Serpmetas: at least 7 (including at least three stunning males) gave amazing views at the south western part of the lava fields (south of the road near the village). Serpmetas is reached by turning west of the road 975 in Caldiran (just before the army barracks). The lava fields are approx 5.5km along this minor road and extend a further 1.5km, as far as Serpmetas village

Cinereous Bunting
Nemrut Dagi (as per Chris Batty)
Isikli: in the valley (as per Chris Batty)

Grey-necked Bunting
Van Hills: a pair and two juveniles on the slopes above the railway cutting (Gosney Eastern Turkey page 14, between sites 3 and 4), and a singing male on the hill southeast of the quarry. Also Rock Sparrow

Cretzschmar's Bunting
Demirkazik: seen along the track from the Mountain Centre.


Complete trip list of 186 species (following taxonomy and nomenclature used at
Western Palearctic Birds)

Ruddy Shelduck Tadorna ferruginea
Red-crested Pochard Netta rufina
Common Pochard Aythya ferina
Ferruginous Duck Aythya nyroca
Tufted Duck Aythya fuligula
Northern Shoveler Anas clypeata
Mallard Anas platyrhynchos
Garganey Anas querquedula
Marbled Duck Marmaronetta angustirostris
Caspian Snowcock Tetraogallus caspius
Chukar Alectoris chukar
See-see Partridge Ammoperdix griseogularis
Black Francolin Francolinus francolinus
Common Quail Coturnix coturnix
Little Grebe Tachybaptus ruficollis
Great Crested Grebe Podiceps cristatus
Red-necked Grebe Podiceps grisegena
Black-necked Grebe Podiceps nigricollis
Scopoli's Shearwater Calonectris diomedea
Pygmy Cormorant Microcarbo pygmeus
Little Bittern Ixobrychus minutus
Black-crowned Night Heron Nycticorax nycticorax
Squacco Heron Ardeola ralloides
Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis
Little Egret Egretta garzetta
Grey Heron Ardea cinerea
Purple Heron Ardea purpurea
Black Stork Ciconia nigra
White Stork Ciconia ciconia
Glossy Ibis Plegadis falcinellus
Eurasian Spoonbill Platalea leucorodia
Greater Flamingo Phoenicopterus roseus
Egyptian Vulture Neophron percnopterus
Short-toed Eagle Circaetus gallicus
Western Marsh Harrier Circus aeruginosus
Long-legged Buzzard Buteo rufinus
Golden Eagle Aquila chrysaetos
Lesser Kestrel Falco naumanni
Common Kestrel Falco tinnunculus
Merlin Falco columbarius
Eurasian Hobby Falco subbuteo
Eleonora’s Falcon Falco eleonorae
Peregrine Falcon Falco peregrinus
Common Moorhen Gallinula chloropus
Grey-headed Swamp-hen Porphyrio poliocephalus
Eurasian Coot Fulica atra
Eurasian Oystercatcher Haematopus ostralegus
Black-winged Stilt Himantopus himantopus
Pied Avocet Recurvirostra avosetta
Collared Pratincole Glareola pratincola
Little Ringed Plover Charadrius dubius
Common Ringed Plover Charadrius hiaticula
Kentish Plover Charadrius alexandrinus
Greater Sand Plover Charadrius leschenaultii columbinus
Spur-winged Lapwing Vanellus spinosus
Red-wattled Lapwing Vanellus indicus
Northern Lapwing Vanellus vanellus
Common Redshank Tringa totanus
Green Sandpiper Tringa ochropus
Common Sandpiper Actitis hypoleucos
Black-headed Gull Larus ridibundus
Slender-billed Gull Larus genei
Audouin’s Gull Larus audounii
Yellow-legged Gull Larus michahellis
Armenian Gull Larus armenicus
Gull-billed Tern Gelochelidon nilotica
Sandwich Tern Sterna sandvicensis
Common Tern Sterna hirundo
Little Tern Sterna albifrons
Black Tern Chlidonias niger
White-winged Tern Chlidonias leucopterus
Rock Dove Columba livia
Common Wood Pigeon Columba palumbus
Eurasian Collared Dove Streptopelia decaocto
European Turtle Dove Streptopelia turtur
Laughing Dove Streptopelia senegalensis
Great Spotted Cuckoo Clamator glandarius
Common Cuckoo Cuculus canorus
Pallid Scops Owl Otus brucei
European Scops Owl Otus scops
Little Owl Athene noctua
Long-eared Owl Asio otus
Little Swift Apus affinis
White-throated Kingfisher Halcyon smyrnensis
Common Kingfisher Alcedo atthis
Pied Kingfisher Ceryle rudis
European Bee-eater Merops apiaster
European Roller Coracias garrulus
Eurasian Hoopoe Upupa epops
Syrian Woodpecker Dendrocopos syriacus
White-backed Woodpecker Dendrocopos leucotos lilfordi
Calandra Lark Melanocorypha calandra
Bimaculated Lark Melanocorypha bimaculata
Asian Short-toed Lark Calandrella cheleensis
Crested Lark Galerida cristata
Wood Lark Lullula arborea
Eurasian Skylark Alauda arvensis
Shore Lark Eremophila alpestris
Sand Martin Riparia riparia
Eurasian Crag Martin Ptyonoprogne rupestris
Barn Swallow Hirundo rustica
Red-rumped Swallow Hirundo daurica
Common House Martin Delichon urbica
Tawny Pipit Anthus campestris
Meadow Pipit Anthus pratensis
Black-headed Wagtail Motacilla feldegg
Citrine Wagtail Motacilla citreola
White Wagtail Motacilla alba
White-spectacled Bulbul Pycnonotus xanthopygos
Radde’s Accentor Prunella ocularis
Alpine Accentor Prunella collaris
Common Nightingale Luscinia megarhynchos
White-throated Robin Irania gutturalis
Black Redstart Phoenicurus ochruros
Common Redstart Phoenicurus phoenicurus samamisicus
European Stonechat Saxicola rubicola
Isabelline Wheatear Oenanthe isabellina
Northern Wheatear Oenanthe oenanthe
Eastern Black-eared Wheatear Oenanthe melanoleuca
Finsch’s Wheatear Oenanthe finschii
Red-tailed Wheatear Oenanthe xanthoprymna
Rufous-tailed Rock Thrush Monticola saxatilis
Blue Rock Thrush Monticola solitarius
Ring Ouzel Turdus torquatus
Graceful Prinia Prinia gracilis
Moustached Warbler Acrocephalus melanopogon
Sedge Warbler Acrocephalus schoenobaenus
Marsh Warbler Acrocephalus palustris
Reed Warbler Acrocephalus scripaceus
Great Reed Warbler Acrocephalus arundinaceus
Eastern Olivaceous Warbler Acrocephalus pallidus
Upcher’s Warbler Hippolais languida
Olive-tree Warbler Hippolais olivetorum
Ménétries’ Warbler Sylvia mystacea rubescens
Rüppell’s Warbler Sylvia rueppelli
Eastern Orphean Warbler Sylvia crassirostris
Lesser Whitethroat Sylvia curruca
Common Whitethroat Sylvia communis
Spotted Flycatcher Muscicapa striata
Bearded Reedling Panurus biarmicus
Long-tailed Tit Aegithalos caudatus tephronotus
Sombre Tit Parus lugubris
Coal Tit Parus ater
Blue Tit Parus caeruleus
Great Tit Parus major
Krüper’s Nuthatch Sitta krueperi
Eurasian Nuthatch Sitta europaea
Eastern Rock Nuthatch Sitta tephronota
Western Rock Nuthatch Sitta neumayer
Short-toed Treecreeper Certhia brachydactyla
Red-backed Shrike Lanius collurio
Lesser Grey Shrike Lanius minor
Woodchat Shrike Lanius senator
Masked Shrike Lanius nubicus
Eurasian Jay Garrulus glandarius
Common Magpie Pica pica
Alpine Chough Pyrrhocorax graculus
Red-billed Chough Pyrrhocorax pyrrhocorax
Western Jackdaw Corvus monedula
Rook Corvus frugilegus
Hooded Crow Corvus cornix
Common Raven Corvus corax
Common Starling Sturnus vulgaris
Rose-coloured Starling Sturnus roseus
House Sparrow Passer domesticus
Spanish Sparrow Passer hispaniolensis
Dead Sea Sparrow Passer moabiticus
Eurasian Tree Sparrow Passer montanus
Pale Rockfinch Petronia brachydactyla
Chestnut-shouldered Petronia Petronia xanthocollis
Rock Sparrow Petronia petronia
White-winged Snowfinch Montifringilla nivalis
Common Chaffinch Fringilla coelebs
Red-fronted Serin Serinus pusillus
European Serin Serinus serinus
European Greenfinch Chloris chloris
European Goldfinch Carduelis carduelis
Common Linnet Carduelis cannabina
Common Crossbill Loxia curvirostra
Crimson-winged Finch Rhodopechys sanguinea
Desert Finch Rhodospiza obsoleta
Mongolian Finch Bucanetes mongolicus
Cinereous Bunting Emberiza cineracea semenowi
Ortolan Bunting Emberiza hortulana
Grey-necked Bunting Emberiza buchanani
Cretzschmar’s Bunting Emberiza caesia

Michael Hoit and Stuart Piner June 2004

Pygmy Cormorant

White Storks

feral Northern Bald Ibises

Kentish Plovers

Greater Sand Plovers (form columbinus)

Red-wattled Lapwing

White-winged Tern

Pallid Scops Owl (form obsoletus)

Long-eared Owl

Asian Short-toed Lark (form niethammeri)

Asian Short-toed Lark nest

Shore Lark (form kumerloevei)

Black-headed Wagtails

White-throated Robin

Isabelline Wheatear

Red-tailed Wheatear

Marsh Warbler

Eastern Orphean Warbler

Pale Rockfinch

Rock Sparrow

Crimson-winged Finch

Mongolian Finch

Grey-necked Bunting (form cerrutii)

all images taken with a Nikon Coolpix 4500 mounted to a Leica APO77 telescope with a London Camera Exchange adapter and a 30x wide angle eyepiece


Morocco 8th-15th March 2004

Following a brief visit to northern Morocco in July 2003 - with my non-birding girlfriend - I returned, accompanied by Michael Hoit, Andy Holden and Tom Lowe, to attempt a 'clean-up' in March 2004. Here follows a report of an excellent week spent birding in Morocco.

I found our
Airtours flight advertised at bargainholidays.com and booked it through Holiday Express 01633-627597 for £199 including taxes. This left Manchester for Agadir on a Sunday evening and returned in the early hours of Monday morning a week later. The price also included a single night in a hotel in Agadir, although in the event we did not use this. I organised a hire car through Holiday Autos booking it at the same time as I booked the flight through Holiday Express 01633-627597. The whole trip cost c£452, including flights, taxes, car hire, transport to airport, parking, accommodation and food.

Before leaving for Morocco I searched the internet for trip reports and information on how best to find our target species. In my opinion the essential guides to birdfinding in Morocco are Dave Gosney's superb 'Finding Birds in Northern Morocco' and 'Finding Birds in Southern Morocco'. They are a must and can be purchased from
Birdguides with updates posted here. The new edition of 'A Birdwatchers' Guide to Morocco' by Patrick and Fedora Bergier was also useful, particularly in helping us to locate accommodation. I found useful information at Go-South with trip reports catalogued at Birdtours, Eurobirding and Surfbirds. Particularly helpful online reports being by Justin Jansen, Stephen Mawby and Stephen Mawby again. In addition two excellent offline trip reports we used were 'Morocco 87' by S M Andrews and 'Morocco 21st January-1st February 1992' by Chris Bell. 'Birding in Morocco' by Pete Morris in Birding World Vol.6 No.11:444-453 gave a good overview to birding in the country. Further information was kindly provided by Chris Bell, Arnoud B van den Berg, Andreas Hagerman, James Lidster, Tim Melling and Martin Reid. To find our way we used the Michelin Morocco 742 1:1,000,000 map which proved adequate before it fell to pieces.


Itinerary

Sunday flew Manchester to Agadir

Monday Oued Sous in early hours then drove to 36km southwest of Guelmim for dawn. Birded southwest of Guelmim towards Tan-Tan before finishing at Oued Sayed. Stayed at Cafe-restaurant Le Musée on P30 east of Oued Massa.

Tuesday Oued Massa then attempted to reach Oukaimeden via the Tizi-n-Test pass but failed, birding Asni to Imlil at dusk. Drove overnight to Sidi Yahya.

Wednesday Sidi Yahya then Lac de Sidi Bourhaba then Moulay Bousselham then Dayet Aoua and finally 18km southeast of Ifrane before driving overnight to Erg Chebbi.

Thursday Birded Cafe Yasmina and Cafe La Caravane before taking a 4x4 ride east of Erg Chebbi towards Algeria. Auberge Kasbah Said, Erfoud then Auberge Kasbah Dakaoua. Stayed at Cafe La Caravane.

Friday 4x4 ride east of Erg Chebbi towards Algeria, Auberge Kasbah Dakaoua, 4.9km west of Rissani till dusk then drove to Boumalne Dades to stay at Hotel Soleil bleu.

Saturday Tagdilt Track, El-Kelaa M'Gouna, Vallee du Dades, Tizi-n-Tichka pass, stayed in Tazenakht.

Sunday Tizi-n-Taghatine, Aoulouz, Igoudar, Oued Massa till dusk, then flew Agadir to Manchester arriving in the early hours.


I have detailed below how we found our target birds (incorporating further information gathered before the trip), following this with information about the target birds we failed to see and finally a complete trip list of all 178 species seen during the week. Throughout the whole report I have followed the taxonomy and nomenclature used at
Western Palearctic Birds.

I have written this report on the presumption that you will be using both 'Finding Birds in Northern Morocco' and 'Finding Birds in Southern Morocco' as your principle source of information on any visit to Morocco. I have therefore referenced the booklets as 'Gosney Northern' and 'Gosney Southern' and given a page and site number where appropriate.


Target birds found

Ruddy Shelduck
200+ at Dayet Sjri although it is unusual for there to be water here (Gosney Southern page 2 site 7).

Marbled Duck
20+ Lac de Sidi Bourhaba mainly north of the causeway (Gosney Northern page 10 site 2). 50+ were seen at Dayet Sjri the day prior to our visit, although it is unusual for there to be water here (Gosney Southern page 2 site 7).

Barbary Partridge
Tiz-n-Test pass by R203 (Gosney Southern page 16). Sidi Yahya along track west of R403 near Sidi Bettache 18km post (Gosney Northern page 12). Southeast of Ifrane just north of junction with minor road.

Double-spurred Francolin
At least 3 males singing at Sidi Yahya at dawn with 1 showing well on a tree stump viewable north from the 'car park' (Gosney Northern page 12 site 1). A further bird was flushed from the R403 north of the 'car park' before you reach a small chapel.

Northern Bald Ibis
At least 14 were seen in flight along the coast just south Oued Massa mouth (Gosney Southern page 10). The famous site at Tamri was not visited, at this site the areas favoured being reported as 7km north of Tamri, 4km north of Tamri at 'the pylons' and by the 'Agadir 60' km post.

Black-winged Kite
Singles were seen at Sidi Yahya (Gosney Northern page 12), by the N1 c38km southwest of Guelmim (Gosney Southern page 2 site 4) and in the Sous Valley at Igoudar (Gosney Southern page 13).

Lanner Falcon
2 southwest of Guelmim northwest of N1 'Tan-Tan 100' km post (Gosney Southern page 2 site 4).

Red-knobbed Coot
Many were seen at Lac de Sidi Bourhaba (Gosney Northern page 10).

Houbara Bustard
A single adult located on our second attempt using 4x4 guides from Cafe Caravanne (adjacent to Cafe Yasmina) at Erg Chebbi. We were shown an empty nest scrape between Erg Chebbi and the Algerian border (Gosney Southern page 25).

Cream-coloured Courser
3 southwest of Guelmim northwest of N1 'Tan-Tan 100' km post and a further 2km southwest (Gosney Southern page 2 site 4). 2 along track between Massa and the coast to the northwest (Gosney Southern page 10).

Crowned Sandgrouse
At least 8 seen in flight and on the ground by Tagdilt western (old) track near the main wadi (Gosney Southern page 22 site 3). The following day they were seen just east of the eastern (bitumen) track just south of the S-bend by a few puddles in a depression (Gosney Southern page 22 site 5).

Black-bellied Sandgrouse
Seen from the Tagdilt western (old) track near the main wadi (Gosney Southern page 22 site 3).

Pharaoh Eagle Owl
A single bird was found roosting on a cliff c1.5km north of the N12 4.9km west of Rissani (4.9km from the road junction by green Ziz petrol station). From 'Alnif 84' km post walk north for c1.5km along base of cliff until you reach a low ridge of rocks (resembling slag heaps) running parallel with cliff just before the main cliff veers off northwest. View the main cliff from the highest point of the ridge of rocks and the owl is in a small cave just left of an obvious fault in the rock strata which forms an arch. We arranged stones spelling out 'Eagle Owl' at the spot from where it is visible. A Brown-necked Raven was nesting right of the arch and Spotted Sandgrouse has been seen in this area in the past.

Marsh Owl
A single bird was seen roosting in trees towards the north end of the western campsite on the southeastern outskirts of Moullay Bousselham. Up to 3 birds had been seen hunting the marsh adjacent to the campsite at dusk (Gosney Northern page 6 site 3).

Red-necked Nightjar
Heard singing and seen resting on the road at Oued Sous (Gosney Southern page 8 site 3). A further singing male showed very well in Agadir Airport car park. As you leave the arrivals entrance walk to the right until you reach the perimeter fence.

Egyptian Nightjar
3 were seen hawking insects at dusk south of Erfoud over Auberge Kasbah Dakaoua (Gosney Southern page 26 site 3). The site can be viewed over the wall at the rear of property but the owner does not like birders watching from here. The best way to appease him is probably to stay overnight here. Alternatively Egyptian Nightjars have been seen along the road between Erfoud and Auberge Kasbah Dakaoua and in the sandy wadis that this road crosses.

Levaillant’s Green Woodpecker
A pair were seen well just south of Dayet Aoua (Gosney Northern page 14 site 4).

Bar-tailed Lark
Several southwest of Guelmim on the raised south of N1 'Tan-Tan 100' km post (Gosney Southern page 2 site 4).

Desert Lark
Seen c300 metres west from N1 'Guelmim 22' km post on the rocky slope (Gosney Southern page 2 site 3) and by Tagdilt Track (Gosney Southern page 22).

Greater Greater Hoopoe Lark
Several southwest of Guelmim on the raised south of N1 'Tan-Tan 100' km post (Gosney Southern page 2 site 4).

Thick-billed Lark
Apparently 2004 was a poor year for this species through most of Morocco, and although a single was seen at Tagdilt Track (Gosney Southern page 22) during our visit we travelled southwest of Guelmim and walked c300 metres west from N1 'Guelmim 22' km post to locate an adult and juvenile on the rocky slope (Gosney Southern page 2 site 3). Other earlier reports from the same area came from by 'Guelmim 31' km post and 'Tan-Tan 100' km post.

Shore Lark
We saw several singing birds southeast of Ifrane by R707 by 'Ifrane 19' km post. 200 were seen at Oukaimeden (Gosney Southern page 16 site 2) during our trip.

Temminck’s Lark
Several seen southwest of Guelmim northwest of N1 'Tan-Tan 100' km post and a further 2km southwest (Gosney Southern page 2 site 4). Also common at the Tagdilt Track (Gosney Southern page 22).

Plain Martin
Several at Oued Massa nesting in a small cliff just east of the road south of the village south of the reserve entrance (Gosney Southern page 10).

Moroccan Wagtail
Seen on the river bed just west of El-Kelaa M'Gouna viewable from N10 by 'El-Kelaa 1' km post and at Aoulouz on Oued Sous by the road bridge (Gosney Southern page 15 site 6).

Common Bulbul
Common and noisy around habitation and cultivation.

Moussier’s Redstart
Seen at Oued Massa, southwest of Ifrane.

Desert Wheatear
Common in semi-desert areas.

Red-rumped Wheatear
Common in semi-desert areas.

Western Mourning Wheatear
From the information I had gathered it seems that the N10 running east from Ouarzazate to El-Kelaa M'Gouna is the most reliable area for this species. Along this road we had noted reports of birds by km posts 'El-Kelaa 34', 'El-Kelaa 45', 'Ouarzazate 46' and 'Ouarzazate 55'. We found a pair nesting just south of the road at 'Ouarzazate 55' (Gosney Southern page 18). Elsewhere a male had been seen recently 38km west of Erfoud.

White-crowned Wheatear
Common around Erfoud and Merzouga (Gosney Southern page 25).

Black Wheatear
Seen by R203 Tiz-n-Test pass (Gosney Southern page 16).

Tristram’s Warbler
A pair northeast of Tiz-n-Test pass by R203 just southwest of 'Marrakech 52' km post in dead scrub where the river runs adjacent to road (Gosney Southern page 16). We failed to find any amongst the Subalpine Warblers in the scrub behind Cafe Yasmina (Gosney Southern page 26 site 4).

African Desert Warbler
We did not search for this species at the traditional site of Dayet Sjri (Gosney Southern page 2 site 7) but instead visited a new site mentioned by
Justin Jansen. Here a male was immediately located singing in the shallow wadi c400 metres south of Auberge Kasbah Said wall (just northwest of Auberge Kasbah Dakaoua (Gosney Southern page 26 site 3)).

Western Orphean Warbler
One was seen briefly at Oued Massa by road just south of the village south of the reserve entrance (Gosney Southern page 10).

Fulvous Babbler
At least 5 were seen southwest of Guelmim on the edge of a field just west of Oued Sayed (Gosney Southern page 2 site 2). Other suggested sites were acacia trees just west of Tazzarine, Auberge Kasbah Dakaoua and adjacent wadi (Gosney Southern page 26 site 3), acacia and palm trees c3km west of Tazared, Barrage El Mansour Eddahbi, palm orchards at Rissani and Assa.

Black-crowned Tchagra
Several were singing and seen at Oued Massa along the track marked as 'good area for Bush-Shrikes' (Gosney Southern page 10 site 6). Heard singing at Sidi Yahya at dawn from the 'car park' (Gosney Northern page 12 site 1).

Brown-necked Raven
We failed to find this species at Cafe Yasmina (Gosney Southern page 26 site 4) or Dayet Sjri (Gosney Southern page 26 site 7) and we failed to find the dump just south of Erfoud (Gosney Southern page 26 site 1) but stumbled upon a nesting pair on the cliffs about 1.5km north of the N12 4.9km west of Rissani.

Desert Sparrow
Several around the camels and building just west of Cafe Yasmina at Cafe La Caravane (Gosney Southern page 26 site 4). The owner told us that dawn and dusk were best here. Also a pair northwest of Auberge Kasbah Dakaoua at the entrance to Auberge Kasbah Said (Gosney Southern page 26 site 3).

House Bunting

Surprisingly only seen in a village west of Massa along a track towards the coast (Gosney Southern page 10).


Target birds missed

Helmeted Guineafowl
Although apparently not recorded in Morocco since 1974, 2 were seen c20 km south of Fes on the 8th January 2004.

Dark Chanting Goshawk
Now very rare in Morocco with the few recent sightings mainly coming from the Sous Plain but also Boumalne Dades.

Tawny Eagle
A single immature had been lingering at Oued Massa in at least autumn 2003 and they have been seen from the hill at Igoudar in the recent past. It is thought probable that a few pairs are still breeding somewhere in the extensive forests between Taroudant and Aoulouz. Elsewhere at least 4 were seen between Goulmim and Tan-Tan on 26th October 2003.

Barbary Falcon
Taroudannt, Aoulouz Gorge, Jorf, Erfoud, Merzouga, Boumalne Dades, El Keela M'Gouna, Mahmid, Tamir, Agdir, Cap Rhir, Mirleft, Tata, Tazzarine, Lemseied and Massa are all mentioned as sites.

Royal Tern
Later in the spring we may have stood a chance at, for example, Oued Sous but a trip further south into the Western Sahara, and in particular, to Dakhla should guarantee this addition.

Lesser Crested Tern
We didn't get a chance to visit Oued Sous during daylight (Gosney Southern page 8 site 1). Other sites mentioned for this species being Amesnaz, 'Jorf Lasfar 20' salt lagoons south of Sidi Moussa, Tamri, Sebkha Bou-Areg, Arghoud Beach and a beach c25 km north of Agadir.

Lichtenstein’s Sandgrouse
A rare bird in Morocco the only suggestion of where to search was Tissint and we did not have time to visit.

Spotted Sandgrouse
We didn't find this species around Erfoud and Merzouga but sandstorms during our time there didn't help us. During our visit they were heard south of Erfoud flying over Auberge Kasbah Dakaoua in the evening (Gosney Southern page 26 site 3).

Pin-tailed Sandgrouse
We didn't see any at Tagdilt Track where others have (Gosney Southern page 22).

Black-crowned Sparrow-lark
This species occurs much further south in the Western Sahara than we ventured.

Blue-cheeked Bee-eater
Mid March was perhaps a little early in the year for this summer migrant but 13 were seen south of Erfoud by the swimming pool at Auberge Kasbah Dakaoua during our visit (Gosney Southern page 26 site 3).

Dupont’s Lark
The traditional site of Zeida didn't fit well in our itinerary so we tried a new site detailed by
Justin Jansen at Tizi-n-Taghatine but a very strong wind did not make a dawn search appealing and we failed to find them later. From 'Tazeknah 48' km post a small hill is south of the N10 while north of the N10 the land is more agricultural.

Rock Martin
The status of this species versus Crag Martin in Morocco is much debated but we didn't make an attempt to add to this.

Isabelline Wheatear
A single was seen south of Erfoud at Auberge Kasbah Dakaoua during our visit (Gosney Southern page 26 site 3).

Seebohm's Wheatear
I found this species common southwest of Ifrane during July but we failed to find any anywhere during our week in March.

Scrub Warbler
We failed to find them just southwest of Guelmim at Oued Sayed and wondered if the vegetation has grown here making the site unsuitable for this species. We were given another site just west of the N1 15km southwest of Guelmim in vegetation between the road and a group of buildings but we failed here as well.

Atlas Pied Flycatcher
Our trip was too early in the spring for this species. The mature oak woods near Ifrane are reputed to hold this species but I don't know of any more specific sites.

Crimson-winged Finch

Our failure to reach Oukaimeden (Gosney Southern page 16 site 2) due to my under-estimating the time it would take to cross the Tizi-n-Test Pass doubtless cost us this species. We tried at the less reliable site of Tizi-n-Tichka Pass summit but failed, although visibilty was very poor due to a snowstorm.

Complete trip list of 179 species

Ruddy Shelduck Tadorna ferruginea
Common Pochard Aythya ferina
Ferruginous Duck Aythya nyroca
Tufted Duck Aythya fuligula
Gadwall Mareca strepera
Northern Shoveler Anas clypeata
Mallard Anas platyrhynchos
Northern Pintail Anas acuta
Common Teal Anas crecca
Marbled Duck Marmaronetta angustirostris
Barbary Partridge Alonectris barbara
Double-spurred Francolin Francolinus bicalcaratus ayesha
Common Quail Coturnix coturnix
Little Grebe Tachybaptus ruficollis
Great Crested Grebe Podiceps cristatus
Bla