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Southern Morocco and Western
Sahara
10th-14th December 2009
Tanzania 2nd-10th June 2009 by
Maurice Jones
Spitsbergen 22nd June-2nd
July 2009 by Ellen Pemberton
La Palma, Canary Islands May
2008 by Stephen Dunstan
South Atlantic Odyssey 2007 by
Barry Dyson
Mallorca 25th May-1st July 2007 by
Stephen Dunstan
Turkey 8th-20th 2009 July by Peter Gluth
Andalusia 8th-11th
September 2006 by Chris Batty and Stuart Piner
Kuwait 3rd-9th April 2007 by Chris Batty and Richard Bonser
Cape Verde Islands 1st-15th March
2007 by Stuart Piner
southern France
and northern Spain 1st-10th August 2006 by Stuart Piner
Fuerteventura
15th-23rd February 2006 by Stephen Dunstan
Morocco 2nd-10th
April 2005 by Richard Bonser, Alan Clewes and Stuart Piner
Cape Verde
Islands 24th February-7th March 2005 by Chris Batty
southern France
20th-25th January 2005 by Stuart Piner
Armenia and
Georgia 24th June-3rd July 2004 by Chris Batty
Turkey 16th-22nd June 2004 by
Michael Hoit and Stuart Piner
Morocco 8th-15th March 2004 by
Chris Batty
Spain 20th-24th February 2004 by
Stuart Piner
Birding in the Atlantic Forests
of Brazil by Colin Bushell
south central Turkey 23rd-29th
June 2003 by Chris Batty
southern France 9th-13th
February 2003 by Chris Batty
Western Cape, South Africa 22nd
August-2nd September 2001 by Barry Dyson
Guinness & Gulls by Paul Slade
Southern Morocco and Western
Sahara
10th-14th December 2009
Participants
Chris Batty, Andy Clifton, Peter Gluth, Andy Holden and Stuart Piner.
I was invited to join this group on a short birding trip south of the Tropic of
Cancer and within 100kms of the Mauritanian border in search of Cricket
Longtails and other local specialities of that remote desert region.
Flights were booked by CB with www.ryanair.com
from Liverpool to Agadir for £70.00 each with pre-booked car parking for the 4
days at Liverpool Airport for £25.00.
I arranged the car hire with Junior Cars at
www.voitureagadir.com for a Chevrolet
Optra 1.6L at an originally quoted €228. On arrival at Agadir Airport the hire
car company unexpectedly demanded the full payment in cash. An occurrence which
I have never experienced before. As a result, I then bartered them down to 2,000
Dirhams (£160.00)! A very good deal.
The total cost in Morocco and Western Sahara was 8,247 Dirhams (£660.00) for the
whole party and this covered the hire car cost, petrol for the 3,000km covered
together with 4 night’s accommodation, all meals, drinks and miscellaneous
expenses.
The hotels used were quite basic: Hotel Sahel in Goulimine (which had been used
on a previous trip by CB et al) for 364 Dirhams (£6 each) for a twin and a
triple room. Two nights in Dakhla for 250 Dirhams (£10 each) per night for a
twin room (SP opted to sleep in the car acting as a guard). An apartment for 5
in Tarfaya for 350 Dirhams (£5.50 each).
The food was surprisingly good; Chicken Tagines in Tiznit and Laayoune. Chickpea
Soup followed by a Seafood Platter and Fish and Chips in Dakhla. Camel Tagine to
start for the others followed by a huge double freshly caught fish and chips in
Tarfaya.
Commentary
December 10th
After collecting the hire car we set off for the 200km drive to Goulimine,
arriving at midnight. Night at Hotel Sahel.
December 11th
After getting duff info from the hotel re sunrise we arrived at Oued Boukila an
hour before sunrise. However after half an hour with the first rays of light we
set off into the scrubby desert in search of our quarry, Scrub Warbler. They
proved to be most elusive before we finally nailed them. This dry river bed and
the surrounding desert held a superb range of species including Hoopoe, Thekla
and Bar-tailed Desert Larks, Red-rumped and Desert Wheatears, Moussier’s
Redstart, Trumpeter Finch and Spectacled Warbler. Birds of prey were a pair of
Lanners together with Long-legged Buzzards and a Black Kite.
After 2 hours or so we departed on the 1,000km drive to Dakhla. En route a brief
stop at Oued Chebika produced 2 Caspian Terns and 1,000 Audouin’s Gulls. By
early afternoon we reached Khnifiss Lagoon and set about the task of locating
Cape Gulls. Despite the light and the tide being against us we eventually found
4 individuals. There were also 350 Audouin’s Gull, a Slender-billed Gull, and a
Caspian Tern. SP also had a Red-throated Pipit in the car park (he was guarding
the car as one of the front electric windows failed and would not shut) whilst
the rest of us marched a long way north in trying for a closer view of a Cape
Gull.
At 16:00 we set off for the gruelling drive to Dakhla only stopping in Laayoune
for dinner and a 400 Dirhams fine for speeding on the ring road. We eventually
arrived in Dakhla at 02:30 and quickly checked into the first available hotel.
December 12th
After 3 hours sleep up at 05:30. The 540km round trip to the village cum NATO
outpost of Aoussard in the extreme south-east corner of Western Sahara. After
first light we noted Cream-coloured Coursers and Desert Wheatears as we headed
to our first stop at Km58 post. This was our first site for Cricket Longtail but
without success. However we did see a magnificent African Desert Warbler and 2
Hoopoe Larks. On to Km41 post. Jackpot! After initially giving us the run-around
we had really close views of 8 birds. Another prize bird was a pair of Desert
Sparrows. Added to this were a couple of Great Spotted Cuckoos and a pair of
Brown-necked Ravens. On to between Km25 and Km24 posts which is actually named
as Oued Jenna. Here we added a further 17 Cricket Longtails. This is a fabulous
spot that will repay given even closer inspection than we gave it. CB spotted a
fly-by African Rock Martin.
A total of 12 Black-crowned Sparrow-larks were logged, a family party of 10
Fulvous Babblers, another 3 Great Spotted Cuckoos and a White-crowned Black
Wheatear were the highlights amongst others. On finally reaching Aoussard
another 2 each of White-crowned Black Wheatear and Brown-necked Raven were seen.
On the edge of the village was a lone tree with 2 Desert Sparrows getting some
shade along with 2 Collared Doves. Being so far south we had hoped for them to
be African Collared Doves, however, this was not be when we eventually heard
them call.
We then retraced our steps back to Dakhla stopping off at Km100 post where there
is a fortification on the north side. At least 15 Desert Sparrows were seen as
well as a couple of Cream-coloured Coursers and a Hoopoe Lark. Between Km110 to
Km112 posts we saw another 5 Cream-coloured Coursers and 6 Bar-tailed Desert
Larks. The only disappointment on this road was our inability to locate any
Dunn’s Larks which have been seen on previous expeditions.
We arrived back in Dakhla with very little petrol to spare. For the future I
would suggest a diesel vehicle with a lower fuel consumption that would allow
some exploration beyond Aoussard.
After a hearty dinner we retired for a well deserved full nights sleep.
December 13th
A short drive 18km out of Dakhla saw us at the edge of the incoming tide into
Dakhla Bay. We could immediately see a large flock of loafing terns on the tide
line. These proved to be 120 Caspian Terns with which were 12 Sandwich Terns and
the prize of 9 Royal Terns. Out in the bay were numerous Greater Flamingos and a
surprise in the form of 6 Little Terns (of the form guineae).
We set off on the long drive back north. It was only then in the light of day
that we observed the carnage that is a daily occurrence on this road. We saw
innumerable cars, trucks and even a coach that had come to grief, either rolled
over and over in a crumpled heap, minus an axle or plenty with just punctures.
Later on the mountainous section between Goulimine and Tiznit there was hardly a
metre of safety barrier or wall that was left in tact. A stark reminder of the
accidental happenings that occur on this road.
At 360km south of Laayoune we made an abrupt halt due to at least 3 Hoopoe Larks
displaying on the road in front of us. How opportune, on getting out of the car
AC turned round to exclaim PIED CROWS!!!!!! Wow, and there were 3 of them as
well. A first for Morocco and only the 4th unequivocal record for The Western
Palearctic, with an ancient record from Libya in 1931 and two more recent
records from southern Algeria in 1961 and 1964. The birds were then observed and
photographed extensively. Also seen were 2 Southern Grey Shrikes and single
Cream-coloured Courser and Black Wheatear. By late afternoon we had reached
Laayoune and stopped off at the road bridge over Oued Saquiat Al-Hamra. From
here there was a variety of wading birds including a party of Little Stints, 100
Ruddy Shelduck and 80 Greater Flamingos. In the gathering gloom whilst trying to
relocate a Black-necked Grebe amongst the Coots CB spotted 2 Crested Coot, with
probably 5 and possibly more but unable to substantiate due to the deteriorating
light conditions. Note Birds of Morocco (Thevenot et al) quotes previous
December records for this site and also Khnifiss Lagoon. We then drove on
another 100Km on to Tarfaya. We thought this the best logistical option despite
being thoroughly un-recommended in all of the literature. It was like a film set
out of a Clint Eastwood western. However all is not what it seems. I had read
that the fish caught off the adjacent beach was very good. We parked outside the
best looking restaurant and were served up camel tagines following by enormous
double portions of fish and chips which were extremely good. It was here that we
met the only English speaking person in Western Sahara who was a local
journalist. He said that both hotels in town were very dirty and introduced us
to an apartment for all of us for the night and even arranged for an 06:00
breakfast to be served at a nearby café next morning! His best advice, however,
on learning of our speeding fine was to say that the best ’avoidance measure’
was to have a single 100 Dirham note in the driver’s wallet and exclaim you have
no more money.
December 14th
After the 06:00 breakfast we set off once again for Khnifiss Lagoon. Our luck
ran out just a kilometre before the turn off to the lagoon with a Mercedes car
veering over the white line forcing us off the road we got a puncture that put
an orange sized hole in the wall of the tyre and completely chewed up the alloy
wheel. Worse still, the wheel nut spanner was too large! Eventually one of the
few passing motorists stopped and gave us a hand with his wheel brace. On to the
Lagoon, now with both the tide and the light in our favour. This time we had
views of 8 Cape Gulls, some of which were paired up and displaying. Also seen
were 2 each of Caspian Tern, Slender-billed Gull, Spoonbill and Osprey.
Our next stop was the coastal ridge midway between El Quatia (Tan Tan Plage) and
Tan Tan. This had previously been a location for sightings of large eagles.
However we had to content ourselves with exceptionally close views of a Lanner
on a pylon. Driving on we passed the occasional Long-legged Buzzard and Black
Wheatear with the 2 Lanners still at Oued Boukila and a lone Booted Eagle 13km
north of Tiznit.
Well, of course we were bound to put last night’s conversation with the
journalist to the acid test as we were again stopped by the diligent Moroccan
police this time for exceeding 60 kph round a remote bend in the road. Well,
despite all of the police effort to extract another 400 Dirham fine out of us,
this ploy did indeed succeed, and we were let off for free!
Our last scheduled location was at Oued Massa, a very lush green compared to the
arid desert of the last few days. Here we saw a flock of 20 Brown-throated Sand
Martins. In the brief time available we also saw 40 Glossy Ibis overhead, Common
Bulbuls, Laughing Doves, Spotless Starlings and an African Chaffinch.
On to the airport, en route we stopped by the road to watch 6 Magpies (of the
form mauritanica) and later at least 6 Little Swifts at Inchaden. At the
airport we were greeted with at least 500 Cattle Egrets going to roost and
finally a few more Common Bulbuls and 6 Magpies (of the form mauritanica)
in the car park.
Systematic List
Little Grebe Tachybaptus ruficollis ruficollis
Oued Saquiat Al-Hamra – Laayoune : 13.12.09
Black-necked Grebe Podiceps nigricollis nigricollis
Oued Saquiat Al-Hamra – Laayoune : 13.12.09
Northern Gannet Morus bassanus bassanus
Khnifiss Lagoon : 2 – 14.12.09
Cormorant Phalacrocorax carbo maroccanus
Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis ibis
Oued Massa : 20 – 14.12.09
Agadir Airport : 500 – 14.12.09
Little Egret Egretta garzetta garzetta
Khnifiss Lagoon : 11.12.09
Oued Saquiat Al-Hamra – Laayoune : 1 – 13.12.09
Grey Heron Ardea cinerea cinerea
Glossy Ibis Plegadis falcinellus falcinellus
Oued Massa : 40 – 14.12.09
Spoonbill Platalea leucorodia leucorodia
Oued Chebika : 2 – 11.12.09
Khnifiss Lagoon : 11.12.09
Khnifiss Lagoon : 2 – 14.12.09
Greater Flamingo Phoenicopterus roseus
Oued Chebika : 1 – 11.12.09
Khnifiss Lagoon : 11.12.09
Dakhla Bay : 180 – 13.12.09
Oued Saquiat Al-Hamra – Laayoune : 80 – 13.12.09
Ruddy Shelduck Tadorna ferruginea
Oued Saquiat Al-Hamra – Laayoune : 100 – 13.12.09
Shelduck Tadorna tadorna
Black Kite Milvus migrans migrans
Oued Boukila : 1 - 11.12.09
Marsh Harrier Circus aeruginosus aeruginosus/harterti
Khnifiss Lagoon : 11.12.09
Khnifiss Lagoon : 1 – 14.12.09
Sparrowhawk Accipiter nisus nisus/punicus
Khnifiss Lagoon : 1 – 11.12.09
Long-legged Buzzard Buteo rufinus cirtensis
Oued Boukila : 1 - 11.12.09
Dakhla to Aoussard road, Km58 : 1 – 12.12.09
Dakhla to Aoussard road, Km41 : 1 – 12.12.09
Oued Boukila : 1 - 14.12.09
Booted Eagle Aquila pennata
13Km north of Tiznit : 1 – 14.12.09
Osprey Pandion haliaetus haliaetus
Oued Chebika : 1 – 11.12.09
Khnifiss Lagoon : 11.12.09
Khnifiss Lagoon : 2 – 14.12.09
Kestrel Falco tinnunculus tinnunculus
Lanner Falco biarmicus erlangeri
Oued Boukila : 2 - 11.12.09
Ridge midway between El Quatia and Tan Tan : 1 – 14.12.09
Oued Boukila : 2 - 14.12.09
Moorhen Gallinula chloropus chloropus
Coot Fulica atra atra
Crested Coot Fulica cristata
Oued Saquiat Al-Hamra – Laayoune : 2 – 13.12.09 (see commentary)
Oystercatcher Haematopus ostralegus ostralegus
Black-winged Stilt Himantopus himantopus himantopus
Oued Saquiat Al-Hamra – Laayoune : 150 – 13.12.09
Avocet Recurvirosta avocetta
Oued Saquiat Al-Hamra – Laayoune : 20 – 13.12.09
Stone Curlew Burhinus oedicnemus oedicnemus/saharae
Cream-coloured Courser Cursorius cursor cursor
Dakhla to Aoussard road, Km100 (fortification on north side of road) : 2 –
12.12.09
Dakhla to Aoussard road, Km110 to Km112 : 5 – 12.12.09
Café Restaurant ChtouKan – Km360 south of Laayoune : 1 – 13.12.09
Little Ringed Plover Charadrius dubius curonicus
Oued Saquiat Al-Hamra – Laayoune : 13.12.09
Ringed Plover Charadrius hiaticula hiaticula/tundrae
Ridge midway between El Quatia and Tan Tan : 1 – 11.12.09
Kentish Plover Charadrius alexandrinus alexandrinus
Ridge midway between El Quatia and Tan Tan : 1 – 11.12.09
Grey Plover Pluvialis squatarola
Knot Calidris canutus canutus/islandica
Dakhla Bay : 13.12.09
Sanderling Calidris alba
Little Stint Calidris minuta
Oued Saquiat Al-Hamra – Laayoune : 10+ - 13.12.09
Dunlin Calidris alpina alpina/schinzii/arctica
Ruff Philomachus pugnax
Oued Saquiat Al-Hamra – Laayoune : 13.12.09
Black-tailed Godwit Limosa limosa limosa/islandica
Khnifiss Lagoon : 11.12.09
Bar-tailed Godwit Limosa lapponica lapponica
Whimbrel Numenius phaeopus phaeopus
Khnifiss Lagoon : 11.12.09
Curlew Numenius arquata arquata
Common Sandpiper Actitis hypoleucos
Oued Saquiat Al-Hamra – Laayoune : 2 – 13.12.09
Green Sandpiper Tringa ochropus
Oued Saquiat Al-Hamra – Laayoune : 13.12.09
Greenshank Tringa nebularia
Khnifiss Lagoon : 1 – 14.12.09
Redshank Tringa totanus totanus/robusta
Turnstone Arenaria interpres interpres
Slender-billed Gull Chroicocephalus genei
Khnifiss Lagoon : 1 – 11.12.09
Dakhla Bay : 20 – 13.12.09
Khnifiss Lagoon : 2 – 14.12.09
Black-headed Gull Chroicocephalus ridibundus
Audouin's Gull Larus audouinii
Oued Chebika : 1,000 – 11.12.09
Khnifiss Lagoon : 350 – 11.12.09
Dakhla Bay : 1 – 13.12.09
Lesser Black-backed Gull Larus fuscus graellsii/intermedius
Yellow-legged Gull Larus michahellis atlantis?
Cape Gull Larus dominicanus vetula
Khnifiss Lagoon : 4 – 11.12.09
Khnifiss Lagoon : 8 – 14.12.09
Little Tern Sternula albifrons guineae
Dakhla Bay : 6 – 13.12.09
Caspian Tern Hydroprogne caspia
Oued Chebika : 2 – 11.12.09
Khnifiss Lagoon : 1 – 11.12.09
Dakhla Bay : 120 – 13.12.09
Khnifiss Lagoon : 2 – 14.12.09
African Royal Tern Sterna maxima albididorsalis
Dakhla Bay : 9 – 13.12.09
Sandwich Tern Sterna sandvicensis sandvicensis
Khnifiss Lagoon : 100 – 11.12.09
Dakhla Bay : 12 – 13.12.09
Khnifiss Lagoon : 2 – 14.12.09
Collared Dove Streptopelia decaocto decaocto
Laughing Dove Streptopelia senegalensis phoenicophila/senegalensis
Oued Massa : 4 – 14.12.09
Great Spotted Cuckoo Clamator glandarius glandarius
Dakhla to Aoussard road, Km41 : 2 – 12.12.09
Dakhla to Aoussard road, Km25 to Km 24 - Oued Jenna : 3 – 12.12.09
Little Owl Athene noctua glaux
South of Agadir Airport : 1 – 10.12.09
Little Swift Apus affinis galilenjensis
Inchaden (c.30km south of Agadir) : 6 – 14.12.09
Black-crowned Sparrow-lark Eremopterix nigriceps albifrons
Dakhla to Aoussard road, Km25 to Km24 - Oued Jenna : 12 – 12.12.09
Bar-tailed Desert Lark Ammomanes cinctures arenicolor
Oued Boukila : 10 - 11.12.09
Dakhla to Aoussard road, Km110 to Km112 : 6 – 12.12.09
Hoopoe Lark Alaemon alaudipes alaudipes
Oued Boukila : 1 - 11.12.09
Dakhla to Aoussard road, Km58 : 2 – 12.12.09
Dakhla to Aoussard road, Km100 (fortification on north side of road) : 1 –
12.12.09
Café Restaurant ChtouKan – Km360 south of Laayoune : 3 – 13.12.09
Km100 north of Tan Tan : 3+ – 14.12.09
Short-toed Lark Calandrella brachydactyla brachydactyla/longipennis/rubiginosa
Oued Boukila : 1 - 11.12.09
Thekla Lark Galerida theklae erlangeri/ruficolor/aguirrei/superflua/carolinae
Oued Boukila : 25 - 11.12.09
Café Restaurant ChtouKan – Km360 south of Laayoune : 1 – 13.12.09
Brown-throated Sand Martin Riparia paludicola mauritanica
Oued Massa : 20 – 14.12.09
African Rock Martin Ptyonoprogne fuligula presaharica
Dakhla to Aoussard road, Km25 to Km 24 - Oued Jenna : 1 – 12.12.09
Swallow Hirundo rustica rustica
Aoussard : 3 – 12.12.09
House Martin Delichon urbicum urbicum
Oued Massa : 1 – 14.12.09
Red-throated Pipit Anthus cervinus
Khnifiss Lagoon : 1 – 11.12.09
Grey Wagtail Motacilla cinerea cinerea
White Wagtail Motacilla alba alba
Oued Boukila : 1 - 11.12.09
Common Bulbul Pycnonotus barbatus barbatus
Oued Massa : 3 – 14.12.09
Agadir Airport : 2 – 14.12.09
Black Redstart Phoenicurus ochruros gibraltariensis
Khnifiss Lagoon : 1 – 11.12.09
Moussier's Redstart Phoenicurus moussieri
Oued Boukila : 5 - 11.12.09
Stonechat Saxicola torquatus rubicola
Oued Boukila : 5 - 11.12.09
Wheatear Oenanthe oenanthe oenanthe
Café Restaurant ChtouKan – Km360 south of Laayoune : 2 – 13.12.09
Desert Wheatear Oenanthe deserti homochroa
Khnifiss Lagoon : 1 – 11.12.09
Oued Boukila : 5 - 11.12.09
Dakhla to Aoussard road, Km41 : 1 – 12.12.09
Dakhla to Aoussard road, Km25 to Km 24 - Oued Jenna : 1 – 12.12.09
Red-rumped Wheatear Oenanthe moesta moesta
Oued Boukila : 2 - 11.12.09
Ridge midway between El Quatia and Tan Tan : 1 – 14.12.09
White-crowned Black Wheatear Oenanthe leucopyga leucopyga
Dakhla to Aoussard road, Km25 to Km 24 - Oued Jenna : 1 – 12.12.09
Aoussard : 2 – 12.12.09
Black Wheatear Oenanthe leucura syenitica
Café Restaurant ChtouKan – Km360 south of Laayoune : 4 – 13.12.09
Blue Rock Thrush Monticola solitarius solitarius
Km46 south of Agadir : 1 – 14.12.09
Blackbird Turdus merula mauritanicus
Cricket Longtail Spiloptila clamans
Dakhla to Aoussard road, Km41 : 8 – 12.12.09
Dakhla to Aoussard road, Km25 to Km 24 - Oued Jenna : 14 – 12.12.09
With a further 3 at another location a total of 25 birds seen along this road.
Scrub Warbler Scotocerca inquieta theresae
Oued Boukila : 2 - 11.12.09
Spectacled Warbler Sylvia conspicillata conspicillata
Oued Boukila : 3 - 11.12.09
Dakhla to Aoussard road, Km41 : 1 – 12.12.09
Dakhla to Aoussard road, Km25 to Km 24 - Oued Jenna : 1 – 12.12.09
Subalpine Warbler Sylvia cantillans cantillans
Dakhla to Aoussard road, Km25 to Km 24 - Oued Jenna : 1 – 12.12.09
Sardinian Warbler Sylvia melanocephala melanocephala
Oued Boukila : 2 - 11.12.09
African Desert Warbler Sylvia deserti
Dakhla to Aoussard road, Km58 : 1 – 12.12.09
Chiffchaff Phylloscopus collybita collybita
Café Restaurant ChtouKan – Km360 south of Laayoune : 4 – 13.12.09
Fulvous Babbler Turdoides fulvus maroccanus
Dakhla to Aoussard road, Km25 to Km 24 - Oued Jenna : 10 – 12.12.09
Southern Grey Shrike Lanius meridionalis algieriensis/elegans
Dakhla to Aoussard road, Km41 : 1 – 12.12.09
Dakhla to Aoussard road, Km25 to Km 24 - Oued Jenna : 1 – 12.12.09
Café Restaurant ChtouKan – Km360 south of Laayoune : 2 – 13.12.09
North African Blue-eared Magpie Pica pica mauritanica
Km46 south of Agadir : 6 – 14.12.09
Agadir Airport : 1 – 14.12.09
Pied Crow Corvus albus
Café Restaurant ChtouKan – Km360 south of Laayoune : 3 – 13.12.09
Brown-necked Raven Corvus ruficollis ruficollis
Dakhla to Aoussard road, Km41 : 2 – 12.12.09
Aoussard : 2 – 12.12.09
Spotless Starling Sturnus unicolor
Oued Massa : 3 – 14.12.09
House Sparrow Passer domesticus domesticus/tingitanus
Desert Sparrow Passer simplex saharae
Dakhla to Aoussard road, Km41 : 2 – 12.12.09
Aoussard : 2 – 12.12.09
Dakhla to Aoussard road, Km100 (fortification on north side of road) : 15 –
12.12.09
Afrian Chaffinch Fringilla coelebs africana
Oued Massa : 1 – 14.12.09
Serin Serinus serinus
Greenfinch Carduelis chloris aurantiiventris/chloris
Goldfinch Carduelis carduelis parva/carduelis/britannica
Trumpeter Finch Bucanetes githagineus zedlitzi
Oued Boukila : 10 - 11.12.09
Corn Bunting Emberiza calandra calandra
Oued Boukila : 2 - 11.12.09
Peter Gluth
February 2010
Tanzania
2nd-10th June 2009
Where to go on my summer holiday? A tough choice
with so many fantastic places available but as my non-birder daughter had agreed
to go too the hunt was on!
Whilst browsing through a Travelsphere holiday brochure, I noted a Safari to
Tanzania, covering most of the main parks with a good amount of time at the
major ones. After doing a bit of a comparison to other holiday companies, which
do not seem to offer the same range of sites, but are slightly cheaper I opted
for the Travelsphere one. Even better, compared to a Naturetrek holiday visiting
the same National Parks it was over a £1000 cheaper – an important consideration
for a pensioner like me!
I knew my opportunities for birding would be more limited with non-birders for
company but my daughter is keen on photography and with destinations such as the
world renowned Ngorogoro Crater and the Serengeti Plains, how could we go wrong!
We flew from Manchester to Amsterdam and then on to Kilimanjaro airport near the
bustling (to say the least) town of Arusha. We arrived late in the evening and
all we could do was meet our fellow travellers – 18 of us in all, have dinner
and then disappear to our lodges with the promise of our first game drive the
next day.
The following morning we headed into Arusha to get some local currency. Much
investment in Arusha has created a mix of the traditional way of life living
side by side with suited businessmen and glass skyscrapers – not what you
imagined somehow. Local street traders are quite persuasive trying to barter
their wares whilst the markets are bustling and colourful. We then went on a
visit to the Cultural Heritage Centre, which had the most incredible
woodcarvings and Tanzanite gems on display. The rest of the first day (3rd June)
was spent in Arusha National Park. A large flat crater had many Warthogs and
Olive Baboons, a troop of Banded Mongoose, Waterbucks and 12 Giraffe. The forest
held Blue Monkeys, Black and White Colobus Monkeys, and in an open area,
Saddleback Stork and Crowned Crane.
Back then to Arumera River Lodge in Arusha for our second night. This was the
first of many quite luxurious places we stayed in but it still retained a
friendly, welcoming feel. At each lodge I was able to bird watch in the grounds
before breakfast and even had a small stream teeming with birds and wildlife
outside my balcony at one lodge.
On 4th, we journeyed to Tarangire National Park; this has open plains, scattered
Acacias and many huge Baobab trees as well as being home to hundreds of
Elephants, including cute bay calves. On game drives we saw many Zebra and
Impala, several Ostrich, Rock Hyrax, Kirk’s Dik Dik (a tiny antelope), 450
Buffalo, our first Secretary bird, Lilac Breasted Rollers and 5 huge Ground
Hornbills. We stayed at Tarangire Sopa Lodge on 5th.Whilst still in Tarangire we
saw about 100 White Backed Vultures, 2 Maribou Stork, 1 Hammerkop, 100 more
Buffalo and Superb Starlings.
Leaving the Park, we headed along a good tarmac road to Manyara Serena Lodge
perched on the escarpment of the Great Rift Valley overlooking the huge Soda
expanse of Lake Manyara. We had an afternoon game drive to the lake, which held
thousands of Lesser Flamingos. A freshwater pool had 25 Hippos and birds
included 300 Collared Pratincole, 20 Hadada Ibis, 10 Squacco Heron, 3 Goliath
Heron, many Egyptian Geese, Knob Billed Duck, various Plovers and 2 Pied
Kingfisher. The hippo lake gave us the chance to get out of the vehicles and
stretch our legs but a tale of a tourist being attacked by a lion after
wandering off kept us well within site of the vehicles! Sadly that day, we
didn’t see a tree-climbing lion – something the park is famous for according to
the guidebooks.
A night drive through the forest down to the lake that evening provided 200 or
so Slender Tailed Nightjar, 2 Pearl Spotted Owlet, 2 Silvery Cheeked Hornbills,
a pair of roosting Fish Eagles, Lesser and Greater Bush Babies, Crowned Plovers,
2 White Tailed Mongoose and a small Spotted Genet. About 30 hippos were grazing
the grass and can put on a fair turn of speed! The sounds of the forest with no
light pollution when the vehicle stopped were amazing.
On 6th by lunchtime we had reached Gibbs Coffee Plantation adjacent forested
hills. The area has several plantations developed by the German settlers in the
early 20th Century. A gentle stroll took in the plantations vast fields and a
secluded waterfall. As the others walked ahead, I had a young bird guide and we
soon dropped behind as I clocked up lifers. A Veraux’s Eagle soared overhead and
I had my first Chameleon. After a lovely lunch – 3 courses were the norm in all
the lodges! - we set off to the Ngorogoro Sopa Lodge perched 7,800 feet above
sea level on the rim of the World’s largest complete Caldera (260 km square).
Louise went for a guided walk along the crater rim with some of the others,
which afforded her views of Massai villages and herdsman bringing in their
cattle and sheep for the night whilst I watched White Naped Ravens, Speckled
Pigeons, Little Bee Eaters and Golden Winged and Tacazze Sunbirds close to the
lodge with sunset over the Crater making for a spectacular view.
Waking to the sound of a distant lion roaring and buffalo roaming in front of
the lodge windows made you know you were in for a good day. The three Toyota
land cruisers in our group descended into the crater 2000 ft below. The crater
is home to 25,000 large mammals and within 15 minutes of entering the crater, we
started the day with a pride of 8 Lions at a Wildebeest kill interacting with
Buffalo. Then came 70 Thompson’s Gazelle, Kori Bustards, Black Backed Jackals,
big lone bull Elephants, Ostrichs, Crowned Cranes, more Lions, 3 Black Rhino,
our first Cheetah, Eland, hundreds of Zebra and Wildebeest. A pool with 20 Hippo
provided the backdrop for lunch with Sacred Ibis, Spur Winged Goose, tame Superb
Starlings and Rufous Tailed Weavers. Later we say Hartebeest and Spotted Hyena.
When one of our trucks broke down, Lake Nduto afforded closer views of hundreds
of Lesser Flamingo, 1 Greater Flamingo, 20 Blacksmith’s Plover, a close
Secretary Bird, 2 Kittlitz’s Plover and 2 Golden Jackals.
The following day after circling the crater rim we continued west on gravel
roads. Louise took in an optional tour of a Massai village, which was a bit
commercialised but did give an insight into how these people life in this
environment. Meanwhile a few of us opted out and headed up to Olduvai Gorge and
museum with the others following on later. This is well worth a visit - the site
is rich in prehistoric history. It’s actually called Oldupai Gorge but the
German who visited it and named it misheard the locals when they pronounced its
name! The immediate area was very arid and the hoped for birds weren’t there –
only Yellow Fronted Serin.
We then pressed on to the Serengeti National Park. En route to the Serengeti
Sopa Lodge housed within the park we saw Batteleur Eagle, Ostrichs, Kori
Bustards, Secretary Birds, 10 White Storks, 3 Tawny Eagles, many Grant’s and
Thompson’s Gazelles and 15 Elephants with young. As we neared the lodge, we were
treated to the sights and sounds – and dust! – of thousands of Wildebeest
crossing in front of the vehicle. After lunch, we had an afternoon drive through
the park, which is teeming with wildlife. As well as thousands of Wildebeest and
Zebra, 80 Buffalo with attendant Yellow Billed Oxpeckers, Wattled Starlings and
1 Lappet Faced Vulture.
Later from my hotel balcony I estimated 9,000 Wildebeest in view although the
population census is 1,250,000!!
Highlights from the following all day drive (9th) included 2 Leopards resting in
sausage trees – one with a kill, numerous Giraffes, 30 Hippos, 11 Topi, Dwarf
Mongoose, Nubian Woodpeckers, D’Arnaud’s Barbets, 2 White Headed Vultures,
Fischer’s Lovebirds, 1 Crocodile, 11 Hartebeest, a tree climbing Lion – again in
a sausage tree - and Elephants. Best of all was a female Cheetah with 4 full
grown young. They were quite active and playful and it gave the opportunity to
observe their behaviour with each other. Mum stalked a Reedbuck but gave it up
as a bad job!
The final day we again had a 2-hour drive through the game packed plains with
thousands of Wildebeest crossing our route and White Backed Vultures circling.
We had a spectacular flight from the tiny airport in the middle of the Serengeti
with great views of Ngorogoro and other volcanic craters including the only one
still active in the area, Oldoingo Lengai. With some time to wait before our
overnight flight back home we lunched and relaxed at the Arusha Coffee Lodge
near Kilimanjaro Airport. Even here we had 6 White Helmet Shrikes, African
Drongos, Red Headed Weaver and Ring Necked Dove.
In all I managed 38 mammal species (plus 2 bats) and an unimpressive 147 birds
with 41 “lifers” – a spectacular trip and highly recommended.
Maurice Jones October 2009
Spitsbergen 22nd June-2nd July 2009
When my grandma passed away in 2005, my mum gave me a rather large sum of money
from her estate. Not really knowing what to do with it, I put it away in a bond
for a couple of years and let it gain some interest. When it matured in 2008, I
decided to treat myself to the holiday of a lifetime. After some deliberation, I
settled for an Arctic adventure. Last Christmas, there was a thread on
Teletext's music page, Planet Sound, asking who could come up with the best
parody of the song “Hallelujah”, as performed by the X-Factor winner. I sent a
version something like this:-
“In summer I will have a trip, around Spitsbergen on a ship,
You need to wrap up, or the cold goes through yer,
They have some lovely wildlife there, like Little Auk and Polar Bear,
There's Walruses and Arctic Foxes, too, yeah,
Hallelujah!”
To my surprise, they actually printed it. Most people I know, when I told them
about my holiday plans, had one question – where's Spitsbergen?! For anyone who
doesn't know, it's the main island in the Arctic archipelago of Svalbard, to the
north of Norway. Getting there involved flying to Oslo, staying overnight and
then flying to Longyearbyen, the main settlement on Spitsbergen island. From
Longyearbyen I would board the ship – a specially ice-strengthened vessel,
originally built in Finland but now Russian-owned, the Akademik Shokalskiy.
My dad saw me off at Manchester Airport on the evening of 21st June. My flight
was at 7.50pm, due in Oslo at 10.45 pm local time. Luckily I was staying at the
Radisson SAS hotel, just across the road from Oslo Airport. By the time I'd
collected my luggage and staggered into reception, it was 11.15 (and still light
outside!). Once I was in my hotel room, I did my E.T. impression *-much to my
dad's relief when I spoke.
I slept for about an hour that night – it was warm and I was very excited. After
breakfast, I took my luggage down to reception and waited for the rest of the
group. There was the leader, a guy from Cumbria and a couple from London. We
made our way back to Oslo Airport for the flight to Longyearbyen. Due to my lack
of sleep I drifted in and out of consciousness – but while I was awake the views
of the mountains and fjords were amazing. None of us saw any blue parrots,
though!
We arrived in Longyearbyen about 2 o'clock that afternoon and saw our first
polar bear – a model in the middle of the baggage carousel! A coach took our
luggage to the ship and as we were not due to board until 4 o'clock we did a
spot of birding; in the bay there were 9 King Eiders, about 20 Barnacle Geese, 2
Glaucous Gulls, Kittiwake and Black Guillemot. In a field on the edge of the
town there was an Arctic Skua and Svalbard's only passerine, Snow Bunting. Not a
bad start.
To get to the ship, we had to board a little inflatable rubber boat, known as a
zodiac, for which we had to wear life jackets. Once on board, we all had
afternoon tea in the bar, followed by a lifeboat drill. Later that evening we
were introduced to the ship's crew, before complimentary champagne and dinner.
The Akademik Shokalskiy can carry up to 48 passengers, however there were only
35 on this trip in total. They were mainly British and American, with some from
Germany, Holland and Denmark; there was even a French couple who were on their
honeymoon!
*Phone home!
After dinner, we all tried out the waterproof boots and parkas which the cruise
company would lend us (and which we would need for zodiac excursions). The
latter had a fleece lining and a (bright yellow!) waterproof outer jacket. I'm
not sure if that was so they couldn't lose any of us; I felt like I should've
been clamping illegally parked vehicles!
23rd June
I was already up and about when the wake-up call came on the tannoy; I saw a
Puffin on the sea and the first of many (blue phase) Fulmars flying past the
ship. After breakfast, we had a lecture on how to dress/board the zodiacs.
Firstly, a demonstration on what not to wear; one of the expedition crew, David,
entered the lecture theatre in shorts, T-shirt, trainers and spraying an aerosol
(the contents of which I couldn't identify) everywhere! Next, another crew
member, Dr. Charles, came in, properly kitted out, in waterproof boots,
waterproof trousers, the trademark yellow parka and a life jacket.
Our first trip today was to a site called Ny London, where, in the early 20th
Century, Ernest Mansfield set up a marble mine. The hut and various pieces of
rusty machinery still stand; however, when the marble was shipped south, it
cracked and couldn't be used! The area was carpeted with flowers, including
Arctic Mouse-Ear, Mountain Avens and Alpine and Purple Saxifrages. A Long-tailed
Skua was on its nest; its mate landed on a wooden post by the marble mine. We
also saw a Purple Sandpiper on the beach and a pair of Long-tailed Duck in the
bay; the drake gave the call, which has been likened to “I'm going up!” On the
hillside there was a Reindeer with a calf. The Svalbard race of Reindeer has
shorter legs than its mainland relative.
In the afternoon we visited the 14th of July Glacier, where we cruised past
cliffs and saw small parties of Puffins and Brunnich's Guillemots. A Glaucous
Gull and a Barnacle Goose had nests on the same rock and a Black Guillemot sat
on a tiny ice floe near the shore. A larger iceberg further out had about 100
Kittiwakes resting on it. On this overcast day, many of the icebergs looked pale
blue rather than white.
After dinner the boat took us to the Lilliehook Glacier, where, from the top
deck we had stunning views of the snow-covered mountains surrounding the fjord.
2 Bearded Seals were hauled out on the ice and about 10 Blue Fulmars flew over
the boat. In addition to the hundreds of Brunnich's Guillemots on the water, a
couple of Little Auks flew past – prelude to tomorrow, as we would be visiting
one of their colonies......
24th June
In this country, sightings of Little Auks generally amount to birds whirring
past over the sea at extreme range, or “wrecked” on land after storms, in which
case, to put it tactfully, they're on their way out. The bird's influence,
however, extends further than you think; it's even been immortalised in song by
the rock 'n' roll revivalists Showaddywaddy.
When I went out onto the deck before breakfast, 10 Little Auks flew past – a ray
of sunshine on this grey, drizzly morning. After breakfast, we took the zodiacs
out to the the colony at Fuglesangen (Norwegian for birdsong!), which holds
about 10000 pairs of these cute little birds. The path was steep and in some
parts covered in deep snow; on more than one occasion I got stuck and had to be
pulled out! On the way down I fell on a muddy patch – eat your heart out
Glastonbury! Some of us also fell backwards on the snow coming down; that's one
way to descend quickly, I guess!
Once there, we approached within 15-20 feet of the birds. They were very
obliging, sitting up on the boulders, hopping and waddling towards one another.
We even saw a few pairs doing, well, what comes naturally! Occasionally they
would suddenly all take off and circle round the cliff, chattering all the time,
before settling back on the rocks.
We stayed at the colony for about 90 minutes, during which time I took about 150
photos (including some of the auks doing “naughty” things!). I should mention
that, not having my own camera, I borrowed a small digital one belonging to my
dad. I'm no photography expert and I doubt I'll be entering the Bird Club
competition any time soon but I was quite pleased with the way the pictures came
out.
After lunch, the sun came out and from my cabin I saw a raft of 6 Brunnich's
Guillemots. The sea was flat calm and we went for a zodiac cruise into the fjord
at Hamiltonbukta. The Akademik Shokalskiy does several cruises during the brief
Arctic summer; when the ship was in this area a week earlier, the fjord was
still covered in ice. Much of it had now broken up. There were thousands of
Kittiwakes and Brunnich's Guillemots flying around the cliffs; a few were also
perched out on the ice floes. About halfway up the cliff, on a vegetated patch,
was a Barnacle Goose nest. A small flock of Eider and a Bearded Seal were
resting on what remained of the ice sheet. On the water there were about 15
Black Guillemots; we were able to get close enough to them to hear their
whistling calls. During this zodiac cruise, we also saw 3 lots of Polar Bear
tracks – but no bears!
The ship later moved into Raudfjorden – blazing a trail through the thin ice!
That evening we passed the latitude of 80 degrees north – the furthest we would
sail in that direction. The sea was very calm and we had a distant view of a
seal on an ice floe. We drank vodka on the bow of the ship and when we crossed
the line the captain sounded the horn! A Blue Fulmar then flew right overhead as
if to gatecrash the celebration!
25th June
The ship was approaching Liefdefjorden, home of the glacier Monacobreen. Shortly
after breakfast, an announcement came on the tannoy of a Polar Bear on a nearby
island; I was in the bathroom and consequently missed it! As it was calm and
sunny (the weather, not the bear!) we set out in the zodiacs. There were a lot
of ice floes, one of which had a small group of Arctic Terns on it. We spotted a
few things which looked like bears but turned out to be rocks! We were then
rewarded with a very distant Polar Bear, which walked about 50-60 feet, then ran
away. I should mention that, when we went out in the zodiacs, we couldn't land
if there was a bear seen in the area. The leaders also had to carry rifles in
order to scare away any bears that approached too close to us.
During this zodiac cruise we also saw 2 Red Phalaropes, as the Americans call
them. It made a change to see these delightful birds in their bright red
breeding dress rather than the grey and white winter garb in which they turn up
in this country. They didn't stay very long, but we would encounter more during
our voyage. We arrived in Monacobreen just before lunch. Mist was forming and
the sea was carpeted with ice floes. The rest of the day was spent on the ship.
After lunch we saw 2 more Polar Bears on the ice, this time a mother and cub.
One of the leaders set a telescope up on the top deck as the bears were quite
distant. As I panned the 'scope to find them an Ivory Gull flew through my field
of view! The visibility was becoming poor, however and the expedition staff took
this chance to do some lectures. I attended one about the different seal species
found in the Arctic. After birds, seals have to be my favourite animals –
especially with those lovely round eyes.
26th June
Today we had an early start – a wake-up call at 5.15 a.m., ready to board the
zodiacs at 5.45 and cruise round Alkefjellet (“Auk Fell”). There were thousands
of Brunnich's Guillemots wheeling around the sheer cliffs; a few Glaucous Gulls
were also patrolling the area. The rough sea and lack of sleep, however, proved
too much for me. I had to lean over the side of the zodiac and do the obvious!
From what I was later told, I wasn't the only one who was sick that morning.
When we arrived back at the ship I had a travel sickness pill and slept for a
couple of hours. By this time the sea was a little calmer and I went out onto
the deck, when an announcement was made of a Polar Bear sighting – which turned
out to be a Reindeer! We went out in the zodiacs again, this time to Augustbukta,
a polar desert with a shingle beach. We saw some Purple Saxifrage in bloom and
some Polar Bear tracks in the snow.
There were half a dozen Arctic Terns fishing in the bay and a couple of Purple
Sandpipers at the water's edge – and I alerted the group to an Ivory Gull flying
along the shoreline! Many of you will remember the bird which showed up in
Granny's Bay early in 2002. Not having a pager or (at the time) internet access,
the first I knew of it was an article in the Blackpool Gazette. I went to look
for the gull the following day; there were many birders there but it didn't
show. To say that I was gutted would be the understatement of the decade! This
sighting more than made up for my seasickness earlier today.
We spent the afternoon on the ship sailing past the east coast of Spitsbergen
Island and past the world's 3rd largest ice cap, the Braskvellbreen. Another
Ivory Gull flew past the bow of the ship. In the evening, the sun came out and
we continued towards Kong Karls Land. We saw 2 more Ivory Gulls, also lots of
Kittiwakes and 2 more Polar Bears. One of these was lying on an ice floe; it
raised its head twice. The ice was only just beginning to break up here and we
sailed very slowly through the night.
27 June
We stayed on the ship for most of the day, spending the morning sailing past the
east coast of Edgeoya island. It was very bright and calm; there was a lot of
ice but also a few patches of open water. We saw another half-dozen bears,
including a couple of cubs, one of which rode on its mother's back, in the
water!
After lunch, I uploaded my photos onto the ship's computer. All the passengers
had been invited to put their best 10 pictures in; these would be included in a
DVD which everyone would receive at the end of the voyage. I needed a lot of
help with mine – I had no idea how to transfer the pictures into the appropriate
folder. Also, which of my Little Auk photos would be in my 10 favourites? I
joked with other passengers that my pictures included some “adult” content (see
the write-up of the visit to Fugelsangen on the 24th)! The gift shop was also
open, selling among other things, T-shirts, woolly hats and cuddly toy Polar
Bears!
Late on in the afternoon, we had a zodiac cruise among the icebergs. They had
many interesting formations, including one which was shaped a bit like a
mushroom. An inquisitive seal (I think it may have been a Harp Seal) popped its
head out of the water a few times before swimming under an ice floe, within a
few feet of us. We found in ice sheet thick enough to stand on and took turns to
photograph one another doing so. When we arrived back at the ship, there was the
option of a “polar plunge” (a quick dip in the sea) before dinner. I was feeling
cold enough already and decided to give it a miss!
28th June
Today was another sunny day. When I went out onto the deck before breakfast, I
saw a Walrus on an ice floe – the first of 3 sightings during the day. We took
to the zodiacs after breakfast for a cruise around Thousand Islands. Eiders,
Black Guillemots, Arctic Terns and Little Auks were all out in force; the latter
were wheeling around like Starlings! We came to a low-lying, rocky island. Near
its shore were 3 Red Phalaropes and a Red-throated Diver. On the island itself
was a Polar Bear; this one, however, wasn't in the best of health. It had a
large scar on its left flank (possibly from another bear or a Walrus) and was
seeking out birds' eggs among the rocks, while being dive-bombed by 2 Great
Skuas.
We came back to the ship and I was halfway through a cup of hot chocolate when
the expedition leader alerted everybody to another Walrus on an ice floe,
straight out from the bow of the ship! This was a young male with fairly short
tusks; we approached slowly and he didn't enter the water until we were almost
on top of him! We had got closer to him than we would be able to approach
Walruses on land.
In the afternoon, the crew continued with their programme of lectures, including
one on skuas, gulls and terns, also one on interaction and learning in animals.
The latter included a slide of a Polar Bear cuddling a Husky. After this, they
showed the “Ice Worlds” programme, which was part of the 2006 TV series “Planet
Earth”. This included footage of a Polar Bear in a Walrus colony, trying
(unsuccessfully) to take one of the pups.
I went out onto the deck again before dinner and as I was watching Blue Fulmars
glide alongside the boat, we sailed past yet another Walrus. This was another
male and he had lost half his left tusk. As the expedition leader put it,
though, that's what happens when you have to fight over the ladies!
After dinner, there was a quiz held in the bar, the prize being a free drink!
The questions were all multiple choice, related to the things we had done and
learnt on the voyage. Many of the questions had some silly choices, e.g. which
settlement in Svalbard, set up by the Dutch, was known as “Blubber Town”? One of
the options was the Shokalskiy dining room! The correct answer was a place
called Smeerenburg, a 17th Century whaling station. My team (the “Nanuk Akademik
Team 2009”) scored a respectable (though not enough to win) 19 out of 25.
29th June
Last night the ocean began to swell, causing me once again to be sick. While the
others went out in the zodiacs I spent most of today in bed. When my travel
sickness pills did nothing, the ship's doctor gave me a different batch and
explained that if they didn't work, he could give me a needle, which would put
me to sleep for about 6 hours. Luckily, he didn't need to resort to such drastic
measures.
I woke up late in the afternoon and by 6.00pm, I was feeling hungry again! This
evening there was an “Arctic Barbecue” on the bow of the ship. Being a
vegetarian I was limited as to what I could sample, but I managed some
corn-on-the-cob and a baked potato. Afterwards there was a zodiac cruise among
the ice floes. The star of this overcast and drizzly evening was undoubtedly a
Bearded Seal, which hauled out about 20 feet away! At one point, it entertained
us by rolling on its side and raising its flipper – a trick to rival the Common
Seal raising its head and hind flippers off the ground and making a “banana”
shape!
Afterwards, the driver of the zodiac which I was in had trouble negotiating the
floes and in the end, the ship had to come to us. Nevertheless, it was good to
have been able to get out after having been confined to my cabin for much of the
day. One guest told me that I hadn't missed any birds.
30th June
We had enjoyed some excellent weather on this trip but today we woke up to fog
and drizzle! The day began with a tundra walk in Recherchefjord. As might be
expected there were a lot of plants, including Polar Willow and Purple
Saxifrage. We saw a Snow Bunting displaying and an Arctic Skua keeping a lookout
from a mound of stones. On the water were small parties of Eider and Black
Guillemot. There was also an old whaling hut on the shore.
After lunch we visited Bamsebu (“Home of the Bear”), another former whaling
site. The rain had stopped by this time, although it was still very overcast. As
we landed, 2 Red Phalaropes flew along the shoreline and 2 Purple Sandpipers
were foraging among the shingle. On the beach lay the remains of up to 500
Beluga Whales which had been slaughtered in the 1920s and '30s; there was
another wooden hut bearing the site's name.
This area also has an expanse of tundra, which a couple of the group got stuck
trying to cross! Luckily the expedition staff were able to rescue them. We had
an early start the next day so continued sailing that evening.
1st July
Our first outing today (at 5.45a.m.!) was to Poolepyneten, to see Walrus. We had
hoped to land here, but couldn't do so, as the sea was too choppy! Those of us
who were feeling brave boarded the zodiacs and sailed around the spit of land
where they were hauled out. A morning at Rossall Point in January has nothing on
the conditions we experienced today! There were 2 groups of Walrus, one of 4 and
another of 8 or so. Some of them were lying on their backs, tusks in the air,
oblivious to the biting wind.
After breakfast, we had another zodiac cruise, this time to Isfjord. The wind
had dropped and the sea was much calmer. In the middle of the fjord were 2 rocky
islets. One had a pair each of Great Skuas and Barnacle Geese and the other had
Arctic Terns displaying. There was a flock of about 500 Eiders (mostly drakes)
on the water. We had a short walk up a rocky slope, scanned over the fjord and
the surrounding snow-covered mountains and took a minute to reflect on what we
had seen and done over the past 8 days.
Our last landing of the day was at Alkehornet, a pyramid-like cliff with a boggy
meadow at its base. Thousands of Brunnich's Guillemots and Kittiwakes were
coming and going from the cliff, whilst on the tundra 3 Reindeer grazed,
eventually coming within about 25 feet of us! We also saw 3 Arctic Foxes and a
gaggle of 20 Barnacle Geese. Snow Bunting, Arctic Skua and Glaucous Gull all had
nests in this area. As we were making our way back to the zodiacs, a skua was
chasing one of the gulls.
That evening, after dinner and complimentary champagne, we were invited to watch
the DVD, of which we would all receive a copy before leaving the ship, compiled
from guests' photographs. I recognised a couple of mine – one of Purple
Saxifrage and the other I had taken in Longyearbyen, of a red takeaway van with
a cartoon Polar Bear on it, selling “kebab”, “hamburger”, “pommes frites” and “brus”!
One guest had also made up his own slide show, which we watched in the bar
afterwards.
2nd July
This morning we had to be off the ship at 8.00 as there was another group of
passengers boarding that afternoon! A coach was ready to take us to our various
destinations; some guests were staying in Longyearbyen and were dropped off at
various hotels. Those of us who were catching the afternoon flight to Oslo were
taken into the town square and would be picked up again at 12.30 and dropped off
at the airport.
I went along the main road out of Longyearbyen, with the party I had travelled
with initially. Although it was sunny it was quite cold. A lot of the bird life
was concentrated around the husky kennels; it may be that the dogs' barking and
howling deter Arctic Foxes. Most of the pools had at least one Purple Sandpiper
and there were about 50 Eiders; some were still on eggs, while others had
newly-hatched ducklings.
On the opposite side of the road from the kennels were nesting Arctic Terns, of
which we had to run the gauntlet! We also saw Arctic Skua, Glaucous and Ivory
Gull, 2 Long-tailed Ducks
and some rarities (for Svalbard, anyway!) -2 each of Dunlin, Ringed Plover and
drake Teal. When we arrived at a famous sign (depicting a Polar Bear, with the
wording “Applies to all of Spitsbergen”) we decided it was time to head back
into town.
After lunch, we boarded the coach again to Longyearbyen Airport. The flight to
Oslo called at Tromso, as did the Oslo-Longyearbyen flight. This time, however,
it wasn't quite so straightforward; for some reason which I didn't catch, we all
had to disembark at Tromso and go through Immigration Control, which we hadn't
had to do on the way out.
In Longyearbyen that morning I had a long-sleeved T-shirt, a thin fleece and a
waterproof coat. When we landed in Oslo I had to remove the last 2 items; the
temperature there that evening, as announced on the plane, was 30C! This time, I
was carrying on to London with the main group and staying overnight at the
Heathrow Ibis, as there wasn't a flight to Manchester till the following day and
this option was cheaper than an extra night in Oslo.
I arrived at the Ibis hotel about 10.00p.m and caught a few hours' sleep before
returning to Heathrow Airport the next morning for the flight to Manchester,
where I was again met by my dad. As we made our way to the railway station,
Manchester was living up to its reputation of “The Rainy City”! When we got
home, I had a lot of unpacking to do and 2 weeks' worth of mail to sort.
Nonetheless, I now have over 1100 pictures, a DVD, a certificate – and lots of
happy memories!
I nearly forgot! Those of you who have drawn a blank on Showaddywaddy's homage
to the inhabitants of Fuglesangen – I'm sure many of you will remember the
song....”Let's go for a Little Auk.....under the moon of love!”
Ellen Pemberton October 2009
La Palma,
Canary Islands May 2008
Over the last couple of years I have done a fair amount of birding in the
Canaries. In February 2006 I went to Fuerteventura (with day trips to La Gomera
and the islet of Los Lobos), details are on the club website and included a
Spanish national rarity as well as some quality local endemics such as Canary
Islands Chat and Houbara Bustard. Last autumn I went to Tenerife, with a day on
La Gomera, and saw several more endemics including Canary, Canary Islands Chiff
Chaff, Tenerife Kinglet and above all Bolle’s and Laurel Pigeon. Last month I
took advantage of new direct flights from Manchester to spend a week on La
Palma, which is one of the two westernmost islands along with the smaller El
Hierro.
La Palma has no Canary endemic species which I had not seen elsewhere, though
the excellent views of Laurel Pigeon I obtained at the iconic Los Tilos site
were infinitely better than those I had on Tenerife. There are two island
endemic subspecies however, palmae Chaffinch and palmensis African Blue Tit both
of which have whitish bellies among their most distinctive ID features and both
of which were found without too much difficulty in any wooded area.
Another notable ornithological feature of La Palma is that it is the only one of
the Canary Islands that has a population of Choughs of the North African race
barbarus. A couple of these were seen within an hour of arriving in our resort
of Los Cancajos, and during the week flocks of up to 60 were seen in a variety
of habitats around the island. The locals are so proud of their Choughs that
they are used as a symbol of identity on car stickers and road signs. It feels
rather strange to spend a week on an island where all of several hundred corvids
seen were Choughs other than a single Raven.
The apartment we were allocated had a sea view, so I did some seawatching from
the balcony most evenings before dinner. This was very productive with flocks of
up to 320 Cory’s Shearwaters in view at one time, up to 27 Little Shearwaters
and dolphins of a couple of species on most nights. The highlight though in
island terms was during north easterly winds one evening where a pale phase
Arctic Skua headed purposefully north, according to Tony Clarke’s ‘Birds of the
Atlantic Islands’ there had been no records from the island when it was
published in 2004.
There are four main sites for birding highlighted in the guides for the Canaries
other than the laurel forest area. One of these, the airport pools, appears to
have largely disappeared during work to extend the terminal building. The Laguna
de Barlovento, a concrete banked reservoir, is the largest area of freshwater on
the island. In two visits it held up to 300 Yellow-legged Gulls but little else.
The reservoir at Puntagorda is much smaller and could probably be passed over in
a short visit, wwe gave it a go and had a Greenshank. There were no waders on
the saltpans at Fuencaliente, but other trip reports showed that if we had been
earlier in the spring we would have had some success here.
Butterflies were much in evidence during the good weather we enjoyed. These
included the endemic subspecies of the Canary Islands Brimstone, which was
widespread in laurel forest areas. Whilst the number of bird species seen was
low even by Canaries standards, there was plenty of interest to fill a week and
the scenery was on a par with anything on Tenerife or the eastern islands. In
particular the seawatching was very enjoyable and the chance to get extensive
field experience of Little Shearwaters was very welcome.
Stephen
Dunstan June 2008
South
Atlantic Odyssey 2007
I first became interested in travelling to the South Atlantic in 1998 when I
made enquiries with Curnow Shipping Limited to travel to South Africa on the
Royal Mail ship, RMS St Helena. This ship sailed from Cardiff (now from
Portland) calling at Tenerife, Ascension Island, St Helena and Cape Town. Return
journey by air to Heathrow. If anyone is interested in this then you will need
to do it soon as there is talk of an airport being built on St Helena by 2010
when the RMS ST Helena is being withdrawn from service. You can do the trip in
reverse calling at St Helena, Ascension Island, Banjul in The Gambia, Vigo in NW
Spain and Portland.
In the end I didn’t go, but put the thought of doing so on the back-burner. Come
forward 5 years and my interested was rekindled on reading the September 2003
issue of Birdwatch magazine. An article by Hadoram Shirihai entitled Pelagic
Odyssey whetted my appetite no end and I resolved to undertake the same trip
when possible. On the 8/6/05 I sent my deposit to Wildwings for the 2007
Atlantic Odyssey voyage, the 2006 trip already being fully booked up.
Much correspondence and preparation ensued before the big day finally arrived.
On the 2/3/07 I left home at 03.00hrs and arrived at Gatwick at 07.30. Here I
joined up with 12 other birders including Tim Cleeves the Wildwings tour leader.
The England cricket team were also there, on their way to the World one day
series in the West Indies. I recognised the Captain Michael Vaughan and spinner
Monty Panesar – pity they didn’t perform. We left Gatwick at 11.20 and arrived
at Madrid at 13.40. We were due to leave Madrid at 22.05, not at all
satisfactory and made worse by the flight being put back to 23.30. We arrived at
Buenos Aires on the 3/3 at 07.30 after an 11.5 hour flight with good leg room
but poor meals. Thinking the worst was now over, with our onward flight to
Ushuaia due to depart at 8.50am, I couldn’t have been further from the truth. To
cut a very long story short one of my bags went AWOL which I was finally
re-united with 6 weeks later, and our flight finally left at 16.50 arriving at
Ushuaia at 21.50. Some journey but of course completely dwarfed by the 29 days
at sea it was going to take us to reach Ascension Island.
The 4/3 saw a trip to the Tierra del Fuego National Park marred by dismal,
overcast conditions. Nevertheless we got off to a great start with 2 Magellanic
Woodpeckers flying over, bringing the bus to a sudden halt. We were lucky as one
of them landed on a broken tree trunk, out in the open, providing us with some
good digital images. This massive black and white pecker with a full red head is
some serious bird and one of our target species. A Black-chested Buzzard eagle
perched close by gave even better views. The passerines too put on a good show
with the smartest being the Thorn-tailed Rayaditos. Good numbers of Patagonian
Sierra-finches and Black-chinned Siskins were supported by lesser numbers of
Fire-eyed Doucans, Grey-flanked and Bar-winged Cinclodes, Austral Parakeet and
single White-throated Treerunner, Magallenic Tapaculo and one of the world’s
largest kingfishers, Ringed Kingfisher. A group of Rufous-chested Dotterels on
the shore, a party of Southern Lapwings and some displaying Great Grebes, not
forgetting Flightless Steamer Duck together with several other duck/goose
species made for a good day. Alas with the rain continuing to fall we had to
make do without the magnificent Andean Condor, a major disappointment.
Monday the 5/3 was a wasted day queueing at Aerolineas offices for news of my
‘lost’ baggage and exchanging Argentinian currency ( as compensation for
inconvenience ) into American dollars. Shopping for toiletries, clothing and
essential missing item replacements took up a large part of the day and I was
grateful for the help of Tim and Gerry Richards a much travelled Aussie birder.
Wellingtons were almost impossible to find and I ended up with a garish yellow
pair with as much tread as a nail file. Because of this I missed out on Chimango,
Crested and White-throated Caracaras, Turkey Vulture and 60+ White-rumped
Sandpipers. By late afternoon we had joined the ship and at 18.00 hours the
Professor Molchanov began to move off down the Beagle channel heading for the
open ocean. As we moved down the channel our only Magellanic Diving- petrel of
the trip was seen. Commoner were Black-browed Albatrosses, Southern Giant
Petrels and Sooty Shearwaters and I was able to catch up with Dolphin Gull.
For the technically minded the Professor Molchanov is an ex-research vessel from
the Hydrometeorology Institute in Murmansk, Russia. She was built in 1983, in
Finland, and was designed as an ice strengthened ship. She measures 236 feet in
length, and 42 feet across the beam. She draws 15 feet which enables her to move
into relatively shallow waters, has a displacement of 2,140 tonnes and cruises
at around 12 knots. On this expedition she had a crew of 20 Russian officers,
sailors, engineers and service personnel on board, and 50 passengers including
support staff. About half the passengers were with ‘Wildwings’ some having
joined at Buenos Aires and others at Ushuaia. Altogether including the Russians
there were 14 different nationalities on board.
The official welcoming briefing was followed by a mandatory safety and lifeboat
drill. The two lifeboats seated 40 people in each and were totally enclosed and
described as unsinkable. They had enough diesel for 24 hours constant running,
and enough survival food for 3 days. I have to say you would not want to be
claustrophobic. Having recently seen the MV Explorer sink I was surprised to see
their lifeboats were of the open type, and thought that had they been in the
same sea state as we experienced in the Bransfield Straits, I would have feared
greatly for their safety.
The 6/3, my passport to benefits birthday, was to be a day to remember or forget
depending on your point of view. With a wind force 9 from the southwest, a sea
swell of 8 metres, moderate visibility and air temperature 40 C many of us were
sea sick, myself included. The Drake passage was living up to its reputation.
Birdwatching was chiefly confined to the bridge but sea-washed windows were a
hindrance. This poor weather was to haunt us for the following two days but
luckily I had found my sea-legs by the following day. Sightings today included
the first Wandering Albatrosses, the only Southern Royal Albatross of the trip,
our first Light-mantled Sooty Albatross and first Antarctic Fulmar. Also seen
were a variety of petrels including Southern and Northern Giant, Soft-plumaged,
Cape, several difficult to identify diving petrels and Wilson’s and
Black-bellied Storm Petrels. Two Hourglass Dolphins were seen but unfortunately
not by me. I retired to bed at 8.00pm without dinner and without attending the
log. It’s fair to say I felt rough.
My fellow cabin mate Dirk van der Wal from the Netherlands was not a birder but
a traveller. Indeed his claim to fame was that he had visited every sovereign
nation in the world, the last being East Timor. I guess he was now continuing
with islands, an impossible task. We had been lucky in that we had booked one of
the two three-berthed cabins and the remaining berth had not been taken up. Just
as well, as there wasn’t enough room to swing the proverbial cat around and the
extra bunk gave us some additional storage space.
The following day the 7/3 gave much better visibility, but with a rather heavy
swell, and the wind against us. Most of the same species as yesterday were
present. In addition our first Grey-headed Albatrosses appeared today along with
over 500 Antarctic Prions shadowing the ship giving close up views, but the
swell made photography difficult. 3 Blue Petrels and an Atlantic Petrel were
also firsts for the trip. 10 Fin Whales were seen but the 8 Hourglass Dolphins
must have been seen when I retired for a coffee for this proved to be a bogey
species for me. Having said that, many of the recorded cetaceans were seen by
only a few people each time, owing to their unpredictability and distance.
Debates began over the difficulty of identifying prions and diving petrels and
these lively discussions were to last for many days. Anyone thinking of going to
Antarctica would do well to focus on these species to which I would also add the
skuas. I ate all three meals today, and my belated birthday cake, which the chef
had prepared the previous day.
The third morning in the Drake 8/3 did not bring any relief with strong winds
and heavy swells pounding the ship as we approached King George Island – the
northern most island in the South Shetland Group. We had intended to land on
Penguin Island but as the wind picked up to gale force strength yet again, we
were forced to head further south to the large Admiralty Bay where a number of
countries have research stations. Here at last the sea conditions calmed down
and it was great to see our first penguins, Gentoo and Chinstrap ‘porpoising’
beside the ship while others bulleted their way through the icy water leaving
their own ‘vapour’ trails as they propelled themselves on to land. Good numbers
of Cape petrels stiffened their wings like fulmars and showed off their
striking, though smudgy wing patterning. 4 Antarctic Terns, squat, compact,
energetic little fellows came close and an Arctic tern was also claimed. Our
first Snowy Sheathbill flew across the bow and up to 10 Antarctic Fulmars were
seen, not forgetting 40+ blond naped South Polar Skuas seen at close quarters.
As we left the shelter of Admiralty bay our first White-chinned Petrel of the
trip was seen and as we approached Bransfield strait we recorded our first
Antarctic Shag. Tim said the only issue to consider was is this a
form/race/sub-species of Imperial shag or is it a true species in its own right.
Bloody certain I didn’t know.
Overnight passage through the Bransfield strait was very rough and it took a
long time to get to sleep. I felt like my whole body was moving up and down
through my skin, as the ship moved from side to side. Weird, uncomfortable and
unfortunately not the only time this was to be experienced.
The next morning 9/3 began with the best possible start. We were now heading
into the Antarctic Sound with no wind, good visibility, overcast but with spells
of sunshine breaking through, the first we had seen since leaving Ushuaia. Many
tabular icebergs lay in line like battleships in formation. We cruised in
between them, ploughing through a porridge of ice-floes to reach Brown Bluff,
where we were to land on the seventh continent. Just before breakfast a young
Emperor penguin was called out and the ship manoeuvred carefully towards it. It
did not move, and as we got closer until we were looking right down on the bird,
we could see that it had a gaping wound around its left leg no doubt inflicted
by a Leopard seal. As the day passed by we were to experience 3 more Juvenile
emperors, all fit and well.
The fastest breakfast ever, soon saw me back on deck where the Antarctic scenery
was staggeringly beautiful and beyond my pen to do it justice. Such haunting
beauty was a life enriching experience as anyone who has been there will
testify.
The ice-floes and ice-bergs offered a multitude of life. All the likely species
of Antarctic Seals were present: numerous Crabeater Seals, a few Leopard Seals
and the occasional Weddell Seal were all hauled out on the ice as we passed by.
Adelie Penguins along with Gentoos were scattered around while Antarctic Minke
Whales were roaming the sound gorging on krill with their cavernous mouths. A
small group of 4 engaged in a lot of social breaching showing algae stained
under-bellies and a neat short curved fin. A Lesser Snow Petrel put in an
appearance to the relief of many, for you do not want to leave without seeing
this most beautiful of birds. We need not have worried as a further 5 were seen
on this memorable day. Such a strange high pitched falcon like call and
fluttering bat-like flight made this bird one of the top 5 of the trip for me.
Finally it was time to make our first landing, but not before Rinie our
expedition leader went through the procedures concerning zodiac operations.
Safety was paramount and I have to say I felt in good hands with this Russian
crew who had hundreds of years experience between them. The temperature was -10C
so no worse than a winter Knott End to Fluke Hall winter wader walk. Brown Bluff
is named after the massive sandstone cliff towering over the beach, topped by
‘molar teeth’ like formations with the colour of a Crunchie bar. There were a
lot of Gentoo’s to be found still moulting and even a few large chicks losing
the last of their fluffy down. Only a solitary Adelie was still to be found on
the beach where plenty of Antarctic Fur Seal bulls were loafing about. At the
far end of the beach another penguin species was found, a solitary Chinstrap
while nearby were Brown and Subantarctic Skuas. Snowy Sheathbill and Kelp Gulls
were also present. As the temperature started to fall the zodiacs began a
shuttle service back to the ship and a welcome lunch.
We were supposed to head for the Weddell sea in the afternoon but the Captain
and Rinie decided that the risk of ending up in too much ice and becoming
further delayed (the Drake passage had delayed us considerably) was too great.
Instead we headed back where we came from seeing more of the same plus one
special moment when an Emperor Penguin swam across our bows, while a Snow Petrel
circled around us and a Dwarf Minke Whale played around the ship, surfacing only
metres away from us. This was more than magic.
The next day the 10/3 will go down as one to forget if that is possible. I had
been struck down the previous night with a mystery virus infection that laid me
low for 24 hours, delirious and with dreadful diarrhoea. I tried to make it on
deck, which I did but lasted only minutes before returning to my bunk. The
ship’s doctor and Rinie’s wife the lovely Liliana did their best to help me but
only time would make me feel better. We were travelling towards the South Orkney
Islands and I am told we passed an iceberg estimated to be 5 miles long. Around
the edge of the berg had been up to 80 Antarctic Petrels, a huge flock and this
was the only day this species was seen. Also seen were 30+ Lesser Snow Petrels
and over 50 Cape Petrels. Antarctic Fulmars had peaked with over 200 birds
recorded and 3 Humpback Whales were seen. Bugger.
As it turned out 3 other people had also taken ill and Tim remained ill for the
rest of the trip despite the doctor’s best efforts. He must have lost close on
two stone by the time he flew back to England looking only a shadow of the man I
had met at Gatwick. I note he is no longer leading the next or future Atlantic
Odysseys that he had signed up for.
Feeling a little better today the 11/3 as we approached the British territory of
the South Orkneys also claimed by Argentina and known as Orcadas. Most of the
group chose to go ashore at the Argentinean base on Laurie Island but still
recovering I thought better of it and chose to stay on the bridge. Anchored not
far from shore I was able to make out several Elephant Seals on land, amidst
lots of Antarctic Fur Seals. Once again it was overcast but with good visibility
and an air temperature of -10C, but fairly calm with little swell. With
everybody back on board and lunch taken, we steamed out of Scotia bay heading
north between Laurie island and Powell island and once again west to get a look
at the largest island of the group Coronation island. The sleeping giant
icebergs took on all shapes and sizes. Some were, jagged, pointed, others smooth
and streamlined. I saw one that resembled a huge bedouin tent, another shaped
like an igloo. Some were gleaming white while others dirty grey. Perhaps the
most spectacular took on an aquamarine colour as though they had been subject to
a litmus paper test. These frozen wonders bejewel the icy waters and were to
enthral us for some days to come.
Heading north to South Georgia we set a new day record for us of 100+
Black-bellied Storm Petrels and also disturbed a flock of c. 300 South Georgia
Shags, another taxonomic puzzle as P. georgianus is in the same super group as
Antarctic Shag and might well be an Imperial Shag. Confused, I was. Moving
further away from the South Orkneys we stretched our vision and were treated to
some distant whale sightings of 2 Sperm and one Southern Right, apparently
unusual in these waters.
The next day 12/3 saw a return to a rougher sea state with the ship rocking and
rolling along in a force 6 and the temperature still at -10 C. That said,
albatross sightings increased, with Black-browed’s recovering to 30 and our
first Wandering Albatross for 5 days. Light-mantled Sooty Albatross, another top
5 bird, increased to a new high of 10 and a solitary Grey-headed also showed. We
had not seen any Soft-plumaged Petrels since the rough weather in the Drake so a
single bird today was great as were 2 Kerguelen Petrels of which more about
later. Blue Petrels numbered 10 and Antarctic Prions came back in abundance,
buffeted about in the strong winds. Fifty White-chinned Petrels were also seen
along with the more usual Cape and Giant Petrel, the latter looking quite evil
as they creased their eyes against the wind.
The conditions on deck were atrocious and it was too cold and dangerous to be
outside for any length of time, while the salt-caked forward windows on the
bridge were a hindrance. Down in the bar, you never knew when the chairs, cups,
food and people would go crashing about and it put paid (not for the first time)
to the afternoon lecture on Sea-birds due to the less than stable
slide-projector in the ever rolling seas. I was beginning to relate to William
Whiting’s Royal Navy hymn ‘FOR THOSE IN PERIL ON THE SEA’. Beverages and bottled
water were free of charge, but pouring out cups of coffee/tea was a delicate
balancing act not always achieved. Spirits and beers you had to pay for, and
when no one was in attendance were trusted to make an entry on a schedule as to
what you had taken.
Today the keen photographers once again played their part in solving a difficult
ID problem. Their images were crucial in separating 2 Sei Whales from the
similar Fin Whale, as they had done with the equally difficult Dwarf Minke
Whale. Everyone seemed to have a high-powered lens with many having brought
their lap tops with them. Downloading was a daily exercise, perhaps twice daily
for some, who would rattle images off with pre-defined multiple settings. Not
having a lap top I stuck to deleting obvious crap from the several 2 GB memory
cards I had brought with me. A single Orca, the only one of the trip was seen by
one lucky person but I finally caught up with Hourglass Dolphin which was just
as well as this was the last day they were to be seen. No sign of Tim all day.
The next day 13/3 saw us approaching South Georgia first sighted at about 11.45
still 50 miles away. As expected bird numbers and diversity increased as we drew
closer. This rugged, mountainous, snow covered island, 106 miles long and up to
18 miles wide, was shrouded in cloud only slowly revealing its majesty. Huge
swarms of reddish-brown patches of krill abounded as we drew nearer to the
continental shelf of this fantastic island. Two more penguin species were logged
with some 40 Macaronis and 10 Kings. Black-browed Albatrosses exceeded 100 birds
but the Giant Petrels were causing concern as the younger birds in particular
were difficult to separate into Southern/Northern hence over 50 being designated
as ‘sp’. The white-phase Southern’s of course presented no such difficulty. Over
5,000 Antarctic Prions were logged whereas the first Fairy Prions totalled just
5. White-chinned Petrel and Black-bellied Storm Petrel both exceeded 100 and
this was our best day for Blue Petrel with over 20 recorded. 5 Albatross species
were seen including an early Sooty Albatross.
Emerging from the depths was a dead ‘nematine’ or giant sea worm which can grow
to several metres long. Unlike most dead marine creatures which sink to the
ocean floor, they do the opposite and float to the surface. As we approached the
southern tip of the island we finally turned into the Drygalski fjord for a
ships ‘cruise’. It was a spectacular sail into the calm turquoise waters of the
fjord, surrounded by jagged snow covered mountain peaks, and only falling short
of the Risting Glacier by a few hundred metres. Here many Antarctic Terns and
Wilson’s Storm Petrels were feeding at the edge of the glacier as the glacial
melting creates an upwelling of nutrients and therefore a high abundance of food
for the birds. Slowly we returned and once again headed for the open sea.
Grytviken was our next destination and a slow sail would take us there by
morning.
However we were not yet done with the 13/3 as after dark a number of diving
petrels were attracted to the ship’s lights. We were able to examine 4 South
Georgian Diving Petrels in the hand. Some characters I was told - including leg
colour - however did not match up with the text in Shirihai (2002) so more work
needs to be done on this difficult group. Also found on deck were several
Antarctic Prions which were released the following day.
The next day at 06.30 we headed into East Cumberland bay towards the anchorage
at the old whaling station of Grytviken. I think most of us were to spend the
morning reflecting on the exploitation and scale of the whale processing that
had taken place here between 1904 – 1964. We landed close to the small graveyard
where we paid our respects to Sir Ernest Shackleton. Shackleton’s explorations
are well known but travelling in these waters made you appreciate the enormity
of his incredible story, his leadership and heroic efforts in achieving what he
did.
From the graveyard we made our way past many Antarctic Fur Seals young and old
and very inquisitive. We however gave a wide berth to the 3 Southern Elephant
Seals loafing nearby and resembling massive garden slugs or even Jabba the Hutt.
Beyond the seals, the Norwegian whaling station lay rusting away, with three
whale-hunting hulks beached on the shore. Most of the buildings had been removed
in the interests of safety, laying bare the great machinery they had once
housed. The place was a living memorial to the whales which had perished in such
huge numbers and you could not help but be moved by it all. I made my way
through snow flurries to the small white church at the back of the deserted
settlement and was touched by the numerous tributes found inside including one
to ‘Nan Brown – An Antarctic housewife 1954-57. Selfless unto death. She
enriched so many lives. She loved this Antarctic island and rests here for
eternity.’ I pondered on what sort of a life it must have been and felt humbled.
From there I visited the museum which was attractively laid out, full of
interest and manned by helpful staff. I bought a few souvenirs before walking on
to Shackleton’s memorial at the entrance to the bay which had been erected by
his comrades. Along the way I passed more Fur Seals, some small groups of King
Penguins, Kelp Gulls and saw a few of the attractive South Georgia Pintails.
These ducks are unusual, if not unique, in that they are carnivores, eating
carrion from dead penguins. It was good to see some green vegetation at last.
Tussock grass, ferns, wild flowers and lichens brightened up the sunlit views
and together with the smell of seaweed perked me up from the morning’s
solemnity. A Light-mantled Sooty Albatross flew right over my head lifting my
spirits even further.
The afternoon saw us on our way to the second stop of the day at Fortuna bay a
little further to the west. With albatrosses, petrels and penguins always in
sight we landed in wintry weather close to hundreds of fur seals and close on
1,000 Gentoo Penguins along the shore and in the sea. I wandered along the beach
where up to 20 Light-mantled Sooty Albatrosses patrolled the cliff sides. Some
were in tandem, displaying as only they can on their long narrow pencil thin
wings, so flexible so manoeuvrable, appearing stiff then almost floppy as they
arch under the bodyline. Made for air currents they cut their way forward
effortlessly, dreamily, floating on air as only seabirds can with their
biometrically made to measure wings enhancing their performance. I could have
watched them all day as they wheeled in figure of eight patterns no more than
inches apart. I was in heaven. This state of bliss was to continue in the days
ahead.
I walked back along the pebbly beach, on to the shingle and made my way to the
King penguin colony estimated to hold 7,000 pairs. Some birds were still
incubating eggs, and some were brooding small young, while the large brown
fluffy juveniles, looking like woolly bears, were waiting their moult. King
Penguins are oh so curious and confiding, as if wanting to be handed something,
while their comical flipper balancing gait never fails to amuse. Not so amusing
were the Southern Giant Petrels on the look out for easy pickings.
50+ Reindeer did not look out of place here. They had been introduced by the
Norwegians between 1911-25 for sport and as a diet supplement for the whale
meat. Towards the end of the landing news broke that Rinie had found some
Light-mantled Sooty Albatross nests. They were nesting amongst the tussock
grass, no higher than 30 feet on the side of hillocks. I managed a few images
and felt immensely privileged to see this magnificent bird at such close
quarters. The sky was constantly changing and the surrounding jagged peaks
looked unclimbable, but I suppose man’s intrusion had only come recently and the
albatrosses had chosen to continue nesting where they had always done. It had
been an unforgettable day in one way or another but there was still plenty more
excitement and spectacle to come.
The next day 15/3 at 08.00 saw us approaching Salisbury Plain in the Bay of
Isles. Air temp was 10 C with high cloud and some sunshine, good visibility and
occasional snow showers. The main aim here was to see the King Penguins at one
of their most impressive rookeries and we were not disappointed. The scenery was
breathtaking and fitting to hold an estimated 150,000 – 200,000 of the second
largest penguin in the world. We landed in excellent sea state about a kilometre
from the hill side where an estimated 60,000 pairs plus their young were
gathered in the rookery and on the plain below, with thousands more along the
sea shore. We wandered at will for the best part of 4 hours, constantly
entertained by the antics of the penguins and capturing their every move. Their
prehistoric webbed feet seemed at odds with their soft shoe shuffle. Sitting
down often brought curious, fearless, Kings right up close pecking at your
rucksack and anything else you may have left lying about.
It was also a great place to observe the large number of fur seals. South
Georgia is probably the most important breeding ground in the world for this
seal species, where at least 4 million spend the summer. At this time of year
the fur seals remaining are small pups born this year, now playing around the
beaches before leaving the bay. A few females with slightly younger pups, still
suckling, were also present. Most males had returned to the open sea. They made
easy and pleasing subjects to photograph. Brown Skuas feeding on seal carcasses
and penguin eggs were also easy to photograph.
Just beyond the rookery in shallow pools in the tussock grass we came across
some more South Georgia Pintails, 10 in total. As I was watching them a Giant
Petrel flew over me, perhaps 10 feet above. Had it wanted to I felt sure it
could have knocked me over.
We returned to the ship for another delicious lunch while the ship relocated and
re-anchored ready for the second landing of the day. There are few places in the
world where one is permitted close access to nesting Wandering Albatrosses and
here we were at Prion Island to do just that. We had hardly set foot on shore
when we saw the first of 7 South Georgia Pipits seen that day, affording great
photographic opportunities as they searched among the rocky shoreline for food
items. More Fur Seals, Giant Petrels and Gentoos were also present. Our group
split up into smaller units of no more than the regulatory 11 per guide and made
our way up the muddy, slippery gully to reach the plateau. It was good to see
some of the Russian crew, including the waitresses also showing a genuine
interest. The ground was covered with the remains of Antarctic Prions,
presumably skua victims and we had to run the gauntlet of Fur Seals hidden in
the tussock grass on either side.
The first breeding birds we saw were Southern Giant petrels. The almost fully
grown young, waiting to be fed still wore downy plumage and their green-tipped
tubenose looked enormous at close quarters. The Wandering Albatross race here is
the ‘snowy’ albatross – Diomeda exulans exulans with a wingspan of 11 feet,
truly magnificent birds. Several nests were brooding tiny downy chicks with
proud parent. We watched in awe at the courtship displays of the younger birds
known as ‘gamming’, where groups of 3 or 4 birds would spread their wings out to
face each other, stretch their necks skyward and emit sounds like a donkey
braying. Bills were vibrated and clattered with would-be partners or rivals. All
this was set amongst glorious scenery and the criss-crossing of Light- mantled
Sooty Albatrosses above us. Two hours never went quicker. Prion Island is now
the only island in South Georgia where visitors are allowed to visit. It has
been strictly monitored since 1995 when some 230 pairs nested on the island.
Today only 190 or so pairs breed here and I think we all know why that is.
At 16.00 we were all back on board after another unforgettable day. With great
memories and peace of mind we set off on our 1,400 nm journey north eastwards to
Gough Island but not until we had celebrated our successful stop in South
Georgia with hot Gluhwein in the bar. Dinner followed with spring rolls, then
New Zealand Guinea fowl on a bed of sweet potato and asparagus tips, followed by
Chocolate mousse. It would have to do.
The next day 16/3 started with snow showers and a layer of snow on deck. It was
10 C and overcast but later in the day it became sunny with excellent
visibility. Massive icebergs were all around the ship but here they were far
smoother in shape, owing to the warmer waters and the length of time they had
been at sea since ‘calving ‘. Some looked like melting ice creams. Shapes
included an inverted mug with handle, that from a different angle resembled an
elephant’s head and trunk. It is what memories are made of. Sadly this was to be
the last day that we saw these doomed monoliths.
Little bird life was seen in the morning but it picked up later with up to 250
Soft-plumaged Petrels, 40 White-chinned and our first Grey Petrel. Black-bellieds
were still showing well but it was to be our last day for Blue Petrel and
Southern Fulmar. Our first Sooty Shearwater for 9 days was a welcome sight as
was our first of the trip Great Shearwaters which we were to see everyday for
the next 9 days.
Cetaceans were seen by the lucky few, with six distant Fin Whales and a pod of
30-40 Long-finned Pilot Whales coming straight towards the ship at speed. I was
told it was a brief encounter, all over in a minute and which I had missed by
seconds on coming back on deck from having a coffee and muffin break. It is
impossible to see everything but they would have been nice.
The 17/3 saw a welcome rise in temperature to 40C with following winds reaching
near gale force and the sea swell up to 6 metres as we surfed the waves and made
good speed. This was to be our last day for seeing Black-bellied Storm Petrels
only to be replaced by its congener the White-bellied Storm Petrel of which we
saw over 80 today. It was also our last day for Cape Petrel and Macaroni Penguin
although we still had one more penguin to look forward to. Great Shearwaters
with over 300 seen replaced the White-chinned Petrels with only 3 seen today.
Wandering Albatrosses declined to 2 but Grey-headed’s increased to 7 and
Soft-plumaged Petrels remained at a healthy 90 or so. A memorable vertical
sighting was seeing a Soft-plumaged Petrel, above a Kerguelen Petrel, above a
Great Shearwater all in line. Mind blowing.
An influx of 40 Kerguelen Petrels made compelling watching, for this bird ran a
close second to the Light-mantled Sooty Albatross for me. They are medium sized
petrels, slate grey in colour with silvery linings on their underside primaries
when seen in sunlight. I could have watched their aerobatics all day. Some
stayed with the ship for some time, often in front. They were just so marvellous
to watch as they rocketed skyward with rapid wing beats, then stalling and
shimmying as though correcting their flight before diving, roller-coaster
fashion, sometimes. Their flight was incredibly fast and versatile, and I was
never sure what they were going to do next. They were true masters of the air as
they put on a show to remember.
The 18/3 saw damp and drizzly conditions with the air temperature rising to 60C.
Today we saw our first sighting of the Tristan (Wandering) Albatross and one
lucky individual saw the only White-headed Petrel of the odyssey. 3 Sooty
Albatrosses together was a taster of things to come and other new birds included
a Great-winged Petrel, a Spectacled Petrel, recently split from White-chinned
Petrel and 10 Little Shearwaters of the southern race Puffinus assimilis elegans.
My highlight of the day was seeing a Soft-plumaged Petrel chasing a Kerguelen
Petrel with 2 Sooty Albatrosses to one side while in the foreground a Great
Shearwater was chasing a Little Shearwater. Another unforgettable moment.
Grey Petrels increased to 50 and Sooty Shearwaters reached their trip peak with
30 sightings. Cetaceans were largely absent today but a pod of 4 whales close to
the ship sparked a lot of interest. However with very brief views, and no
pictures, ID remained inconclusive with the general consensus favouring Southern
Bottlenose Whale, although some markings indicated another beaked whale, the
very rare Shepard’s Beaked Whale.
The following day 19/3 saw our position at 08.00: 44014’S / 16055’W, 381
nautical miles from Gough Island. With the wind force only 2-3, and the
temperature up to 90C it was a pleasant day on deck, and with new species
continuing to appear, interest remained high. Among sightings of Sooty,
Wandering and Black-browed came an albatross only seen twice, the Shy Albatross
with its characteristic black ‘thumb marks’ on the white underwing at the join
of the body. Today also saw my first Atlantic Petrels with about 30 being seen.
Six of the tiny Grey-backed Storm Petrels were also seen today with 3 others
being seen on separate dates. They did not stay with the ship and sadly I didn’t
get a photo but they were cracking little birds. 5 equally attractive petrels,
the White-faced Storm Petrel were also seen but not photographed. Our first
Broad-billed Prions appeared today, confirmed once again by digital photography
by examining the wide, duck-like black bill that can only be seen well from
frontal views.
Marine life was once again thin on the water, with only a probable Sei Whale
close to the ship in the morning and a few ‘blows’ from distant whales. A couple
of Sub-antarctic Fur Seals was one of the first signs that we must be closing in
on land.
The 20/3 saw temperatures continue to rise peaking at 140C. With a light wind,
good visibility, scattered showers and sunshine our winter plumage was shed in
favour of T-shirts as everybody enjoyed the warmer weather. Today we were
finally to reach Gough Island after a distance of 1,377 nautical miles (1,584
land miles) from Prion Island. It had taken us 118 hours at an average speed of
11.66 knots per hour. It had been interesting poring over the nautical charts on
the bridge each day, from where we could also e-mail back home the events of the
day. Now we could see land again as the first ‘land ahoy’ call was made at a
distance of 44 nautical miles away.
Another call was made by one of our keen cetacean watchers who homed in on two
distant splashes claiming a Great White Shark through his image stabilising
binoculars. The only known ’flying’ shark is the Great White, common enough
around South Africa and not that far away, so who knows. It went in the log as
such.
It took well over 4 hours before we reached Gough Island seeing more and more
birds as we drew closer. Sooty Albatross numbers increased, with up to 200 being
seen and I was in ecstasy with over 100 Kergulen Petrels to drool over.
Soft-plumaged Petrels are no slouches in the speed stakes and with over 500 seen
today our heads and bodies were constantly on the move. Atlantic Petrels peaked
at 500, not too surprising as they are endemic to this island and the Tristan da
Cunha group. With over 3,000 Broad-billed Prions, 2,000 Great Shearwaters, 55
Little Shearwaters, 50 Tristan Skuas, 400 Grey Petrels, 200 Southern Giant
Petrels and our first Yellow-nosed Albatrosses it’s fair to say this was some
day. With smaller numbers of many other species including 5 albatrosses, 3
petrels and 3 storm petrels our heads were spinning with delight. I particularly
enjoyed watching the White-bellied Storm Petrels foot paddling and literally
bouncing off the waters surface.
Gough Island is 65 square kms in size, rises to 910m and has cliffs up to a
height of 460m in places. It is 425 km from Tristan da Cunha and has been a
UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1995. Many species breed here and few
scientists have visited the island long enough to obtain accurate censuses, but
an amazing overall figure of 20 million pairs of birds has been suggested.
It was not yet dark so it was decided to pay a visit to the Northern Rockhopper
Penguins we could see below the cliffs, looking for the endemic Gough Moorhen
and Gough Island Bunting at the same time. Landings are not allowed on the
island but there is a manned South African weather station on top of the cliffs.
Our zodiac drivers skilfully found a way through the kelp fringe surrounding the
island and we duly ticked off the flightless moorhen and the walking bunting.
100’s of Sub-antarctic Fur Seals were also seen looking very different to their
Antarctic cousins with their golden face and chest. The aptly named Rockhoppers
with their long yellow floppy eyebrow plumes were a joy to watch as they hopped
their way, feet together over the rocky coastline. It was time to call it a day
and what a day it had been. Not quite over a Soft-plumaged Petrel was found on
deck after dinner and eagerly photographed before being released.
The following morning we were woken up at 04.50 for an early morning zodiac
cruise along the coast of this truly magical island. It was a perfect morning
with calm seas and few clouds. The island oozed mystery, recalling Conan Doyle’s
‘Lost World’ or Spielberg’s ‘Jurassic Park’. It was a geologists dream and a
birders delight. Numerous waterfalls cascaded over cliff edges. Extraordinary
rock formations and a rainbow of colours bedazzled our senses. Ferns, tree
ferns, sedges, mosses and Phylica a shrubby tree grew amongst the lush
vegetation dominated by tussock grass and all the while Sooty and Yellow-nosed
Albatrosses wheeled above us. Southern Elephant and Sub-antarctic Fur Seals were
seen at very close quarters with the fur seals frequently brushing alongside our
zodiacs as we came as close to shore as we were allowed. We meandered around
stacks, islets and caves all home to nesting birds and grazing crabs. A visit
was made to a rocky outcrop where a colony of Antarctic Terns with young were
present. You could say that this is where the Antarctic meets the tropics as 4
Common Noddies were also seen.
Up to 7 Gough Moorhens and 20 Gough Buntings were seen plus prolonged views of
the comical Northern Rockhopper penguins during our 2 1/2 hour early morning
cruise. You could not have wished for a better start to the day but with
stomachs rumbling, breakfast called and we made our way back to the ship. During
breakfast the ship lifted anchor and headed north while some of the crew did
some fishing to enable a spot of chumming to be carried out with a mixture of
fish entrails and kitchen scraps.
As we left Gough Island behind, an onion bag full of ‘chum’ was dragged along
behind the ship, soon attracting a large gathering of tubenoses. This was
photography made easy with scores of Tristan Wandering Albatrosses, Yellow-nosed
Albatrosses, Sooty Albatrosses, Great Shearwaters, Southern Giant Petrels,
Spectacled Petrels, White-chinned Petrels, and White-bellied Storm Petrels
following and alongside the ship. The net lasted for a while then after half an
hour or so began to burst open allowing a free for all feeding frenzy to ensue.
What a spectacle as we steamed NNW towards Tristan da Cunha reluctantly leaving
Gough behind us. A group of about 20 Southern Right Whale Dolphins apparently
common enough but rarely seen were claimed at some distance from the ship.
In the early morning of the 22/3 we arrived at the remotest inhabited place on
earth, Tristan Da Cunha. It is roughly situated 1,500 miles west of Cape Town,
2,000 miles east of Buenos Aires, and 1,350 miles south of St Helena which is
the nearest inhabited place. The huge volcanic cone of Tristan (6,760 feet high)
was free of cloud and the ship was idling along after a calm night. What a sight
as we made our way round to the only flat part of the island, a basalt plateau
with the settlement of Edinburgh. Formalities completed we were given permission
to land and at 09.00 we touched down on Tristan soil.
We had until 17.00 to explore the island. My first port of call was to the lava
flow and volcanic cone that had caused the island to be evacuated in 1961. From
there I made my way to the ‘famous’ potato patches or allotments as we would
know them. Cattle and sheep were in the fields along the way and several
Southern Painted Lady butterflies were seen, along with other insects and
wildflowers such as daisies and hawkweeds. It was good to be able to finally
stretch one’s legs on a decent walk and to talk to the ‘locals’ who were very
friendly and helpful. The last of the potato harvest was being taken in, and as
I chatted to one of the residents an Antarctic Tern took advantage by taking
worms and other invertebrates from the disturbed soil. With no competition from
passerines it was a niche open for them to exploit.
The only other species I saw all day were Yellow-nosed and Sooty Albatrosses
high above the foothills of the volcano. A rodent eradication programme is badly
needed if they are to see the return of the Tristan Thrush and Bunting and more
nesting seabirds. I ambled back to Edinburgh and visited the small museum, the
Post Office, the supermarket, various craft sellers and the bar where several
South African beers were consumed while ‘Coronation Street ‘ was being shown on
TV.
It was a relaxing day in pleasant temperatures and sunny skies as I continued to
walk round the attractive settlement, stopping to watch the school children
playing football and admiring the neat and tidy dwellings some still with
corrugated roofs, although since the 2001 hurricane most have been fitted with
galvanised replacements. However with a fragile population of around 270 and
slowly decreasing I fear for their future as all the young folk seemed eager to
leave. No doubt the ‘Internet’ has shown them what they are missing and they are
keen to broaden their horizons. Indeed two of the young folk were travelling
with us to Ascension Island bound for the Falklands where they had short term
job offers as welders after earning the relevant certificates back in the UK in
Birmingham.
Overnight we kept our anchorage outside Edinburgh but by early morning the
conditions in the harbour were impossible so we were unable to pick up any local
guides for our visit to Nightingale Island. However the islanders on Nightingale
reported good conditions in one of only two landing sites there, and along with
our two Tristanian’s Leon and Frankie on board, it was thought we would be able
to land without extra personnel from Edinburgh. Wrong. The swells prevented us
landing all day and we were forced to spend time cruising slowly around the
inshore areas. We anchored on the lee side of the island in the hope that the
swell might abate but it wasn’t to be.
At least it was a sunny day with temperatures rising to 200 C and uncountable
numbers of Great Shearwaters to count, ending up as a tick in the log. 350
Great-winged Petrels were seen by the end of the day and our cruising also gave
us good views of more Spectacled Petrels as well as over 200 White-bellied Storm
Petrels. Although it was frustrating not to have landed on Nightingale there was
still the next day for a second chance. In the evening our disappointment was
tempered by a fine BBQ on the aft deck. Good food and beverages flowed as the
music played in the warm Tristan evening.
The next morning 24/3 was a relief to all, as the conditions at Edinburgh had
improved so much that the local guides could come aboard. We headed to
Inaccessible Island and on arriving Rinie and the Tristanians took a scout
zodiac to check out the conditions on the beach. The go ahead was given and a
tricky landing followed with some people getting quite wet. It was worth it
though as we were soon investigated by several curious tail-cocking Tristan
Thrushes with their gold and black patterned underparts. Fearless they
approached without caution inspecting us and our gear just as the King Penguins
had done. Within minutes several Tristan Buntings also showed themselves in the
tussock grass but the real prize was yet to come. Tim happy to be taking
advantage of terra firma had brought a disc player ashore and played the squeaky
calls of one of the ultimate ticks: the Inaccessible Island Flightless Rail,
only to be found on this one small island. Although we could hear them
responding we could not see them. We repositioned ourselves further along the
pebbly beach soon to be rewarded with cries of ‘There’s one there’. They are the
smallest flightless birds in the world, dark brown all over with red eyes, and a
short decurved bill. They were rather like miniature Kiwis, with similar strange
fur like feathers. Incredibly fast in the dense tussock they also proved
difficult to photograph and I managed just a fuzzy image. With all three
endemics seen, including 3 rails we made our way back quickly to the ship in
order to attempt another landing at Nightingale Island. Incidentally this island
is also the only known breeding place of the Spectacled Petrel, with an
encouraging increase to about 20,000 birds at the last census.
Evacuation off the beach went without incident but the gangway on the ship was a
different matter, proving very difficult on our return with one lady having to
be hoisted on board by the ships crane whilst still in the zodiac. Another lady
missed her footing and slipped into the water but was immediately rescued by the
crew. In just over an hour we arrived at Nightingale Island and landed safely on
the rocks below the steep path that would take us to where the Grosbeak Bunting
another endemic might be seen. Only one lucky observer saw the bunting but the
visit was immensely enjoyable with many more Tristan Thrushes and Tristan
Buntings being seen.
Best of all was close encounters with fledgling Yellow-nosed Albatrosses, a real
privilege and memories to treasure as we trespassed over their breeding grounds
with their immaculate bowl shaped nests, small compared to those of the
Wandering Albatross. Much wing exercising and bill clapping was going on,
although they seemed unperturbed by our presence. Here too were numerous
shearwater and petrel burrows and one of the Tristanian wardens retrieved for us
one of the fluffiest of chicks you are ever likely to see, that of a Great
Shearwater. Adult Great Shearwaters were walking ungainly down the hacked out
path looking for some where to take off from, while others arrived with a thump
on the ground. More decent views of Northern Rockhopper penguins brought to an
end another brilliant day.
Just for the record Nightingale Island is approximately 1 square mile in size
and is home to 250 pairs of Sooty albatrosses, 5,000 pairs of Yellow-nosed
Albatrosses, 10,000 pairs of Broad-billed Prions , 10,000 pairs of White-faced
Storm Petrels, 125,000 pairs of Northern Rockhopper Penguins, and 3,000,000
pairs of Great Shearwaters with smaller numbers of Common Noddies and Antarctic
Terns.
Reaching Tristan shortly before dark we bid farewell to our guides and were soon
heading off northwards on the next long leg of our journey (1,327 nm) to St
Helena. As expected the next day saw sea-bird sightings beginning to tail off
and one Tristan Albatross and one Sooty Albatross set the pattern for a quiet
passage. Soft-plumaged Petrel numbers slumped to 5 and White-bellied Storm
Petrels were down to 20 from the previous day’s total of 200. At least a few
goggled-eyed Spectacled Petrels stayed with the ship and a new species was
Leach’s Storm Petrel with up to 11 recorded. Tonight, those who were interested
watched the first of four episodes of a French television drama called Napoleon
as a taster to our visit to St Helena where he was exiled for a second time
following his escape from Elba.
The next day 26/3 saw even fewer numbers of sea-birds with only 3 species seen
today. The albatrosses had left us and we were down to 4 Spectacled Petrels and
1 White-bellied Storm Petrel, the last day we were to see either species. New
for the Odyssey were 3 Bulwer’s Petrels, this stunningly shaped species a sight
for tired eyes as we searched the ocean for signs of life. With their long
pointed wings and long narrowing tail this all dark species save for a faint
diagonal wing bar is a gem to see. Staying close to the ocean surface searching
for prey its flight is unpredictable as it twists its body and zig-zags its way
along. What a bird this would be to see in British waters, instead of having to
travel to the Spanish and Portuguese Atlantic islands.
Frustratingly, a distant large pod of dolphins (50-100) remained unidentified.
Even from digital images opinions differed between Pan-tropical Spotted Dolphins
and Clymene Dolphins although both species may have been present. Much easier to
be sure of was the appearance of hundreds of flying-fish leaping out of the
water to escape the ship, with one landing on board hitting our chef on the leg.
I saw a school of 60 or so together as they flew low over the water travelling
some considerable distance. Clearly sea temperatures were rising, with the air
temperature reaching 230 C today.
At 08.00 on March 27 we were still 635 nm from St Helena but the days now were
pleasant on deck. Today saw the nadir of sightings with just two species all
day. Bulwer’s Petrels increased to 7, and we saw 2 early morning sightings of
Red-billed Tropicbirds, probably at the edge of their South Atlantic range. It
was a day for inside lectures, a feature of every day and with a dearth of
sightings better attended. The morning’s talk was entitled ‘St Helena- The Lost
world’ but in the afternoon the talk was replaced by a surprise party as Lillian
and Jason had prepared a great ice cream buffet including a couple of buckets
(!) of Campari/orange juice and Pina Colada respectively. Walter the ship’s
doctor once again played his accordion to add to the tropical atmosphere on deck
and a good time was had by all. In the evening the third episode of Napoleon was
screened.
The next day saw us closing in on St Helena with bird numbers increasing.
Bulwer’s Petrels peaked at 20 offering lingering views of some, as they kept
pace with the ship. Bloody marvellous. Leach’s Petrels came close and afforded
comparison with one of their close congeners - Madeiran petrel with 10 and 3
seen respectively. These however were nothing like the Leach’s we see from the
Fylde coast in Sept/Oct and you could be forgiven for mistaking them. Their
upperparts were bleached out making them extraordinarily pale and buff coloured
in appearance, particularly within the crescentic wing bar. Some distant petrels
were logged as Storm petrel sp but a single Red-billed Tropicbird and a Brown
Noddy posed no such problems. A Sperm Whale was seen breaching almost vertically
far in the distance and a school of over 50 Striped dolphins were seen coming
closer and closer to the ship before disappointingly veering away.
The 29/3 saw our run in to St Helena as it appeared on the horizon just after
noon some 28nm away. With bird numbers picking up we once again recorded 20
Bulwer’s, plus 15 Leach’s and 10 Madeiran’s while a further 70 petrels remained
unidentified. Over 50 Red-billed Tropicbirds with their seemingly endless tails
were seen and our first boobies of the Odyssey when 10 Masked Boobies were
logged. We made our way up the west coast of the island seeing spectacular red
volcanic cliffs and glimpses of trees and grassy meadows at the top of sheltered
gorge-like valleys. Brown and the smaller Black Noddies circled round the ship,
and our arrival was heralded by the appearance of 20 Rough-toothed Dolphins
which escorted us bow-riding towards Jamestown the main town of St Helena.
St Helena is a UK dependent territory and our second oldest colony (1659) after
Bermuda (1609). It has an area of 121 Sq kms, roughly half the size of the Isle
of Wight and rises to 2,700 feet at Diana’s Peak. The local economy is centred
mainly on agriculture and fishing. There are some cottage industries and income
also comes from honey production and tourism. Philately is a major income and
information generator, but the island with a population of about 6,000 continues
to rely heavily on British development aid.
After Customs and Immigration officials had cleared the ship we landed late
afternoon by zodiac. We were soon seeing some of the island’s naturalised birds
with a strange line-up of Java Sparrows, Zebra Doves, Madagascar Fodies, Common
Waxbills, Yellow Canaries and Common Mynas. Some Fairy Terns were nesting on the
cliffs that abutted the harbour wall. We had a few hours to spare before dinner
and most of us took the time to explore the lower reaches of Jamestown, a place
living in the past and none the worse for it. I decided against walking the 699
steps embedded into the cliff face and known locally as Jacobs ladder. Instead I
roamed along Napoleon Street, visited the local library and museum and relaxed
in the quaintness of it all.
In the evening most of us headed for a meal at a small restaurant on the
waterfront while others had taken the remaining seats at Ann’s Place in the
Castle Gardens which I later visited. Ann’s Place was hosting the annual get
together with a concert of the Woman’s symphony orchestra of St Helena. Music
and stand-up comedy by the compere the local Bishop! was a chance to see island
life as it is. It was all so innocent and not of any great standard. I felt
ashamed later at having poked fun at it, for it didn’t deserve it. I was not the
only one to have done so. Afterwards the local bars and the Consulate hotel were
visited and copious amounts of alcohol consumed. We returned to the ship at
midnight passing Jacob’s ladder that was now illuminated like a stairway to the
sky.
The next morning 30/3 saw a state of panic as following the early morning wake
up call, another call was made that a Whale Shark was swimming around the ship.
A mad rush of semi-dressed individuals made their way onto the deck to watch
this largest of all fish move very slowly towards the stern of the ship only
inches from the surface. It then swam up the starboard side before it repeated
the circuit as if doing a lap of honour to the absolute delight of everyone on
board. It looked huge and we estimated it to be 8 metres long, but the
literature says they can grow up to 16 metres, so really just a medium sized
one! Nevertheless what a start to the day and probably going down as the
highlight of the Odyssey for some people.
This morning the passengers split into two groups with many going on a 3 hour
island tour while the rest, me included, went to see the Wirebird (St Helena
Plover) the only surviving endemic land bird, named because of its thin
wire-like legs. Seven birds were seen very well and a recently hatched chick.
From there we paid a visit to Longwood House where Napoleon was confined for the
remaining six years of his life. The house and grounds are now French territory
and they are in effect a museum containing some original furniture and some
artefacts from Napoleon’s time. It was fascinating to reflect on how he might
have spent his time there.
Returning back to Jamestown I asked to be dropped off about 2 miles short so
that I could amble downhill and enjoy the countryside and suburbs. It was a
delightful walk with temperatures in the low 20’s. On the way I passed the
school and couldn’t believe my eyes when I saw it was called Pilling Primary
School, motto ‘Together as one’. The nearby hospital reminded me that one of our
number had been suffering toothache on arriving in Argentina where she had had
some dentistry done. It had helped, but every now and then it would flare up
again. It was now much better but she had nevertheless arranged to see the local
dentist here in Jamestown. Being a British citizen the advice given to her had
cost nothing but had she chose to have had an extraction it would have cost her
£1.10p. Fillings likewise cost £1.10p but a full set of dentures would have
knocked you back £5. Now that’s what I call value for money.
The afternoon saw 17 of us join an inshore boat cruise on the Gannet 111 in
search of dolphins and seabirds. With its friendly and experienced crew it
didn’t take long before we caught up with a group of 50 or so Pan-tropical
Spotted Dolphins making high leaps out of the water. Quite a few came close to
our boat to ride the bow wave, as we endeavoured to take photographs. Then they
left, charging forward like infantry with purpose. We caught up with them again
and this time one or two Rough-toothed Dolphins were also seen. After spending a
good 45 minutes engaging with them we headed south along the coast. Suddenly we
saw an odd looking shape floating about on the sea. On drawing nearer it became
clear that we were watching a mating pair of Green Turtles. How lucky was that,
as they are rare in St Helena waters.
We carried on to our main objective that of Speery Island where the boat was
tossed about in choppy waters making photography nigh on impossible. Here were
nesting Fairy Terns, Red-billed Tropicbirds and Masked Boobies. 2 Sooty Terns
were also seen and Black Noddies were on nests that looked like they were
dripping candle wax, forming stalactite icicles. It was highly exhilarating
hanging on for dear life with birds whizzing about here and there and not a hope
of photographing them. Returning closer inshore we paid a visit to a rocky bay
where many Black and Brown Noddies were roosting and where Madeiran Storm
Petrels arrived late afternoon. We saw about 100 of these stocky, broad winged
petrels some hanging in the wind over the rocky headland and others just flying
around. They have a narrow pale crescentic bar on the upperwing and a very dark
underwing. By the time we arrived back at the harbour we had been out for 4
hours in what had been an immensely enjoyable time.
Back on the ship we had a barbecue on a lovely warm evening. Mouth-watering
salads complemented the delicious crayfish, spare ribs, spicy sausages, juicy
beefburgers, chicken legs, and tender rib-eye steaks washed down with punch,
beer, wine or soft drinks. At around 21.00 the Professor Molchanov heaved anchor
and we regretfully left St Helena for our 680nm journey to Ascension Island. I
have to say I thoroughly enjoyed St Helena and as a walker would love to return
to explore the island on foot. It probably won’t happen but I can dream, and if
an airport is forthcoming it would be so much easier.
The 31/3 was a quiet, calm day with few birds and a very distant whale fin
breaking the surface, species unknown. A Cory’s Shearwater was good to see
having missed the two earlier ones. 15 Bulwer’s Petrels, 10 Madeiran and 5
Leach’s were identified with a further 12 indeterminate’s at a distance. 2
Red-billed Tropicbirds were also seen and the only Long-tailed Skua of the trip.
April Fools day did not pass without incident. When the ‘breakfast is served’
call was made at 06.40 instead of 08.15 quite a few were fooled including the
Russian waitresses who thought they were late for work. Rinie was also
optimistic when he announced Ascension was in sight – a mere 280nm away. At
08.00 the air temperature was rather warm at 260 C and another hot day was in
prospect. As expected few birds were to be seen from the ship with 15 Leach’s
overtaking the Madeiran total of 3. An Arctic Tern was seen and a very distant
flock of over 500 terns were probably Sooty Terns. Other than that we had to be
content with the numerous Flying fish that were seen throughout the day.
After dinner, at the log, an elaborate prank that had started the day before was
revealed. A picture claimed to have been taken during the chumming session on
23/3 was chock full with birds, including what looked like a Black-capped
Petrel. Peter Simpson showed a picture on his computer taken from a book of
another Black-capped petrel which was remarkably similar to that shown the
previous evening. Yes you’ve guessed it, it had been superimposed by another
birder Laurence Pitcher who works for Photoshop in a professional capacity,
showing just how impossible it is to trust photographs these days.
The next morning found us only a few miles from Ascension, a rather stark
volcanic island, quite different in outline from St Helena. We chugged along
slowly, escorted by a pod of Bottlenose Dolphins as we made our way to
Boatswainbird Island. Once again we were to see a feast of nesting seabirds. All
around us birds were coming and going with Masked and Brown Boobies diving into
the sea harpoon-like with wings folded back. Hot spots where feeding frenzies
were happening could be seen in the distance, where no doubt competition was
fierce between Dolphins, Boobies, and Tuna. Black Noddies and Fairy Terns
flirted with us and massive Ascension Island Frigatebirds flew sedately
overhead. The foreplay was good but the climax was spectacular for when we
dropped anchor a blizzard of birds lifted off the stack and speckled the sky, a
truly wonderful sight.
This rock stack is the world HQ of the endemic Ascension Island Frigatebird with
some 5,000 pairs and we were looking forward to zodiacing the sheltered side. We
were not disappointed as we cruised alongside where every ledge, hole and cranny
was taken by Black and Brown Noddies, Brown Boobies, Fairy Terns, Red-billed
Tropicbirds and two new tropical species the White-tailed Tropicbird and
Red-footed Booby. Thousands of Masked Boobies and Ascension frigatebirds
occupied the top of the stack with many more wheeling around as cameras clicked
and videos panned. Once again our bodies were contorted and necks stretched in
order to get that perfect picture. Thousands of images were taken as we twisted
our torsos in the rocking zodiac. A combination of half heads, half tails, just
sky, just water, blurred images, over and under exposures ensued with now and
again that satisfactory picture. Suddenly a few Bottlenose Dolphins appeared,
staying around for a few minutes and also a small Manta Ray close to the surface
which I was one of the lucky ones to see. It was a magical hour and a half and
yet another great experience to stay in the memory for years to come. One of the
lasting images in my mind is that of the sitting tropicbirds with their
amazingly long tails.
From here we cruised along the coastline enjoying the view, marred only by the
high-tech intrusions this strategically placed island has been subjected to. We
anchored close to Georgetown near a large cargo ship and made an afternoon
landing at the pier where we had to pull ourselves up by ropes on to the steps,
similar to what we had to do in St Helena but a little trickier. The adjacent
beaches had golden sands and were very inviting but the temperature was in the
mid-thirties and there was nowhere to escape the suns rays. It was a Monday but
almost nowhere was open with everyone at work. It was like a ghost town, but a
spick and span ghost town with no litter and nothing to do. Three of the
landbirds were seen around the environs: Yellow Canary, Common Myna, and Common
Waxbill and the missing one Red-necked Francolin was seen the following day on
Green Mountain. The Odsidian hotel was open, probably because it doubled up as a
tourist information office from where I bought a touristy T-shirt. The only
other place open was the Post Office where at sometime everyone visited, not
just for postcards and stamps but because it had air conditioning.
We made our way back to the ship for an early dinner as we were to return to the
island for a special evening excursion. On our return we were met by the
Ascension Island Conservation staff and shown a short video on the life of the
Green Turtle, before splitting into two groups and escorted to the ‘nursery’
sands at Long Beach. Here we were taken to see one of several huge female
turtles depositing their sticky golf ball sized eggs into the pit she had
excavated with her flippers. About 120 are laid into an egg chamber before she
covers it with a couple of tons of sand. Recently over 70 turtles had been seen
in one night. Some people returned early morning the next day to see the last
adults returning seawards and to see some of the tiny hatchlings emerging.
Our last day before returning home was spent visiting Green Mountain, the peak
of the old volcano and the highest point on Ascension at 2,800 ft high. A convoy
of vehicles was at our disposal and I chose the wrong one! I could see the
driver looking anxious and soon found out why when some distance short of the
summit the radiator started to boil over. We were left to hike our way to the
summit but luckily a passing islander took pity on us and took us as far as
vehicles were allowed. From there in the cloud cover the temperature was much
more agreeable and we explored the immediate area. Land crabs were quite common
here where the mosaic of habitats included woodland, grassland and shrubland. I
found several specimens of a Long-tailed Blue butterfly ssp, known by the locals
including the conservation staff as the blue moth! It makes you wonder what else
goes unidentified here.
After lunch we made our way to the Sooty tern colony at Wideawake Fairs, near
Mars bay. The terns are known locally as ‘Wideawakes’ owing to their
onomatopoeic calls. We were lucky because they have a 10 month breeding cycle
and are not always present at this time of year. Various figures were given as
to how many were present in a colony known to have reached about 75,000 pairs.
With many birds continuing to arrive it was thought there were currently in the
region of 30,000 pairs which was still an awesome sight. We stayed there for
about an hour jockeying for position to get the best vantage point to photograph
them. It was a fitting finale to a wonderful experience.
All that remained now was to get back to England. Our last meal was served
onboard a few hours before disembarking the ship for the last time. At around
21.00 hours fond farewells were made accompanied by music from the doctor’s
accordion. About half the passengers were staying with the ship for the last leg
to the Cape Verde Islands, a further weeks cruising, but for the rest of us it
was a long overnight wait at a local ‘pub’ and the military airport before
flying back to RAF Brize Norton in Oxfordshire. It had been a long unforgettable
journey, with memories that will stay with me forever, and regardless of the
inconveniences it had been very,very good.
From Ushuaia to Georgetown, Ascension Island we had travelled 5556nm, equivalent
to 10,290 km or 6431 statute miles and during all that time I never saw another
ship until the cargo ship anchored at Ascension. We saw 8 Penguins, 9
Albatrosses, 16 Petrels, 4 Prions, 4 Shearwaters, 7 Storm-Petrels, 2
Tropicbirds, 3 Boobies, 4 Shags, 1 Cormorant, 1 Frigatebird, 5 Skuas, 5 Terns
and 2 Noddies not forgetting all the landbirds. In addition we saw 11 Whales, 7
Dolphins, 6 Seals and a South American Sea Lion as well as various other
wildlife, most, but not all of which are mentioned in the main body of this
report. And my five top birds, well in no particular order: Light-mantled Sooty
Albatross, Kerguelen Petrel, Great Shearwater, Inaccessible Island Rail and
Lesser Snow petrel.
Barry Dyson 2008
Mallorca 25 May – 1 June 2007
Due to having to go in half term this trip to Mallorca was outside the
peak spring passage time. Details of the species likely to be of
interest to British birders are included, in total 80 species were
logged.
Although a couple of days were not given over to birding it was not too
difficult to catch up with a number of the island’s specialities. The
biggest disappointment was getting an ‘untickable view’ only of a
presumed Balearic Woodchat Shrike from a moving car.
We stayed at Port d’Alcudia, which proved to be a perfectly good base.
As well as being close to several key sites the birding in the resort
itself was not bad at all. From our balcony we saw Eleonara’s Falcons
most evenings, and there was clearly a flightline for herons and egrets
presumably en route to and from Albufera.
One or two miscellaneous points:
- car thefts are still a problem at Cuber, park carefully or empty your
car. We were targeted though fortunately lost nothing of value.
- Graham Hearl’s book is still an invaluable resource, but status of
many species have changed since it was written.
Cory’s Shearwater – seen from the Formentor lighthouse and Cala Rajada
Shag (Mediterranean race) – seen without difficulty at coastal locations
Little Bittern – one seen at Albufera
Night Heron – seen overflying Port d’Alcudia, best views at Albuferata
Squacco Heron – seen at Albufera
Cattle Egret – regularly overflew Port d’Alcudia and many at Albufera
Purple Heron – seen from balcony at Port d’Alcudia, several Albufera
Black Stork – one seen at Cuber was something of a surprise, though
apparently they have summered there in the past
Marbled Duck – seen at Albufera and Depuradora de s’Illot
Red-crested Pochard – many Albufera
Black Vulture – about four seen at Cuber
Eleonora’s Falcon – seen at Cuber, Albufera, Bocquer Valley and over
Port d”Alcudia on most evenings
Purple Gallinlule – Albufera
Black-winged Stilt – ubiquitous at wetland sites
Kentish Plover – near Albuferata
Audouin’s Gull – easily seen on the beaches from Port d’Alcudia to Porto
Pollensa, overflew the apartment most days
Gull-billed Tern – two Albufera
Whiskered Tern – several Albufera
Pallid Swift – seen at Formentor
Crag Martin – seen from viewpoints on the road to Formentor, at
Formentor lighthouse and in the Bocquer Valley
Tanwy Pipit – Cuber near the dam
Iberian Yellow Wagtail – seen on the outskirts of Port d’Alcudia and at
Salines de Lavante.
Blue Rock Thrush – seen in the Bocquer Valley only, at the far end of
the valley near the cove
Fan-tailed Warbler – widespread, including on the outskirts of Port
d’Alcudia
Moustached Warbler – Albufera
Great Reed Warbler – Albufera
Balearic Warbler – seen at viewpoints on the Formentor peninsula and in
the Bocquer Valley
Sardinian Warbler – seen at several sites
Serin – common, including in the resort
Stephen
Dunstan August 2007
Turkey 8th-20th July 2009
Participants
Peter Gluth,
Stuart Piner, Robert Pocklington and Tom Westhead.
Original Plan
South Van Marshes, Van Hills, Serpmentas Lava Fields, Cizre, Nemrut Dagi,
Birecik, Isikli, Durnalik, Adana, Demirkazik, Sultan Marshes, Karpinar
Craters, Konya and Akseki.
We then added in Ataturk Baraji for Blue-cheeked Bee-eater and Kulu Golu
for Lesser Flamingo.
I then decided to go ahead of the main party and reconnoitre the area
between Van and Ishak Pasa. This proved to be a great success and time
saver for the rest as I located precise sites for Grey-necked Bunting,
Red-fronted Serin, Mongolian Trumpeter Finch, Crimson-winged Finch,
Radde’s Accentor and Twite (of the form brevirostris).
Actual Itinerary
July 8th: Kantal, Istanbul.
July 9th: Van Hills.
July 10th: Ercis (river by military installation east of town),
Bendimahi Marshes, Serpmentas Lava Fields, Soguksu, Tendurek Gecidi.
July 11th: Sim er Hotel Dogubayazit, Ishak Pasa, Hinterland of Ishak
Pasa toward Iran.
July 12th: Somkaya, Tendurek Gecidi, Soguksu, Kazgol - Caldiran,
Bendimahi Marshes.
July 13th: South Van Marshes and Fort, Bendimahi Marshes, Soguksu,
Tendurek Gecidi.
July 14th: Van, Ishak Pasa, Somkaya, Soguksu Bendimahi Marshes, South
Van Marshes, Ercek Golu, Tarmali Gecidi, Road to Cizre via Hakkari.
July 15th: River Tigris – Cizre, Euphrates crossing west of Siverek
Nemrut Dagi.
July 16th: Adiyaman, Ataturk Baraji, Birecik Gravel Pits, Café Gulhane –
Birecik, Ibis Wadi – Birecik, Isik Restaurant Wadi – Birecik, Café
Gulhane – Birecik.
July 17th: Ibis Wadi – Birecik, Birecik Cliffs, Altinova Koyu –
(Orchards 4km north of Birecik), Yaycalik Koyu, Isikli, Durnalik.
July 18th: Cimbar Bogazi – Demirkazik, Havutlu – (south of Adana), Tuzla
Golu, Tabaklar – (Heronry on River Seyhan Nebri), River Seyhan Nebri up
river back to Havutlu.
July 19th: Akgol – Goksu Delta, Aydinkisla near Bozkir, Akseki.
July 20th: Antalya.
Commentary
July 8th. Arrived at transit hotel in time for a local walk
evening walk where saw 6 Alpine Swifts and 2 Laughing Doves.
July 9th. Internal flight from Istanbul to Van. Then collected
hire car from Europcar. Off to Van Hills for Grey-necked Bunting etc.
Spent most of the afternoon there without success. However did encounter
25 Finsch’s Wheatear, 6 Isabelline Wheatear, and a surprise Red-tailed
wheatear sp. (I have only listed it as this as I did not, at the time
realise that xanthoprymna had not been seen this far east and
whether it could even have been a chrysopygia?). Also seen were
singles of Egyptian Vulture, Booted Eagle (pale morph) plus a pair of
Long-legged Buzzards with 2 dark morph juveniles. Additional species
were 25 Rock Sparrow, 8 Western Rock Nuthatch, 4 Blue Rock Thrush, 18
Hoopoe (including 9 together on one rock) and at least 100 Armenian
Gulls.
July 10th. A few kilometres east of Ercis there is a military
installation between the road and Lake Van with a river flowing through.
Here I found at least 15 Night Herons plus Roller, Bee-eater, 3 Calandra
Larks and 2 Finsch’s Wheatear. Next stop was at Bendimahi Marshes which
was excellent with 2 Purple Herons, 3 Squacco Herons and a Night Heron.
Plenty of Armenian Gulls and 30 Slender-billed Gulls as well as 3
White-winged Black Terns, 4 Whiskered Terns and singles of Little and
Gull-billed Tern. On Lake Van were at least 50 Black-necked Grebes and a
White-headed Duck. A Black-bellied Sandgrouse on the dry mud gave
excellent photo opportunities whilst in the village itself I found a
Citrine Wagtail amongst the throng of White and Black-headed Wagtails.
On to the lava fields at Serpmentas which were a huge disappointment,
not a single bird of any species encountered! However in the hay meadows
immediately prior to the lava field had much more success with 6
Finsch’s Wheatear, 2 Short-toed Lark, 2 Twite (of the form brevirostris),
4 Black-headed Bunting, a Snowfinch and 2 Eastern Olivaceous Warblers.
Next was to explore the lava fields between Caldiran and Dogubayazit.
First stop was at Soguksu. Go through village and 200 metres after the
‘village ends sign’ there is a drivable sandy track on the left back
into the village. GPS:
N 39.2561, E 44.0459. On the left of this is a
stream and on the right a series of donkey paddocks culminating with the
last two having donkey sheds to the rear. Here was a treat in store; 8
Mongolian Trumpeter Finches and 3 Red-fronted Serins gave crippling
views. Added to this were a Rock Thrush, Ortolan Bunting and a Quail
whilst overhead were a Hobby and a superb Lesser Spotted Eagle. At the
top of the pass is Tendurek Gecidi at 2644 metres. Here another 4 Twite
(of the form brevirostris), 3 Red-fronted Serins and 7 Rock Thrush’s
were seen together with 9 Shorelark, 2 Snowfinch and an Alpine Accentor.
July 11th. Off up to Ishak Pasa where straight away connected
with 7 Western Rock Nuthatch. On climbing up the hillside encountered
Ortolan Bunting, Tawny Pipit, 2 each of Isabelline Wheatear and
Red-fronted Serin before finally clinching an elusive singing
Grey-necked Bunting with another on the way down. After this I decided
to explore the very variable roads and tracks towards the Iranian border
which I could see in the distance. Here I found at least 25 Shorelark, 2
Snowfinch, 2 Rock Thrush and 2 Tawny Pipits. Along the road where it was
‘gravely’ I saw 5 Bimaculated Larks and 2 Common Rosefinches. Definitely
an area worth exploring more. See the sketch in
Michael Grunwell’s
report.
July 12th. Back to Tendurek Gecidi where as last time plus 3
Radde’s Accentor and 2 Crimson-winged Finch plus 7 Bimaculated Lark and
15 Black Redstarts. On to Soguksu again, this time with the addition of
3 Egyptian Vultures and a Long-legged Buzzard plus 4 Rock Sparrow, 2
Snowfinch and an Alpine Accentor. At Caldiran I decide to head west to
find Kazgol, a lake with reported Marbled Duck seen. None of them, but
at least 25 Black-headed Wagtails in the hay meadows. Also 3 Cranes,
unfortunately not Demoiselle, 2 White Stork, at least 10 Quail, 8 Ruddy
Shelduck, Tawny Pipit and 2 Little Ringed Plovers. Later a Hobby was
seen with 2 dark morph juvenile Long-legged Buzzards. On the way back to
Van a quick stop at 18:00 by the road side at Bendimahi Marshes gave me
the good luck to see at least 500 Rose-coloured Starlings coming into
roost. Also seen were 56 Slender-billed Gulls and 3 Gull-billed Terns.
July 13th. A few hours at South Van Marshes before going to the
airport to meet up with the rest of the team. Here I saw 800
Slender-billed Gulls with numerous Armenian Gulls plus 53 White-winged
Black Terns and a single Whiskered Tern. There were also 11 Ruddy
Shelduck plus 10 each of Green & Common Sandpiper and Little Ringed and
Kentish Plovers together with 2 singing Great Reed Warblers. At the fort
were a Roller and 40 Alpine Swift. On teaming up with the others it was
then ‘operation catch-up’. Back north to Bendimahi Marshes. Different to
before were 12 Gull-billed Terns, 40 White-winged Black Terns, 3
White-headed Duck, 4 Squacco Heron and a Greenshank. At Soguksu all the
goodies were still there to everybody’s relief with the extra bonus of a
party of 4 Crimson-winged Finches. At Tendurek Gecidi again all were
present and correct with now 8 Twite (of the form brevirostris) and
another 2 Radde’s Accentor in a different place plus our first Chuckar.
July 14th. Dawn and up to Ishak Pasa. A big surprise was the
first bird seen which was a Penduline Tit. We eventually saw 5 (a pair
feeding 3 juveniles). Climbing up the slopes we saw 7 Rock Sparrow, 2
Blue Rock Thrush, Rock Bunting and a Tawny Pipit before becoming aware
of the singing Grey-necked Bunting I had seen a few days earlier. We
were then treated to the bird hopping around us and on nearby rocks
singing its heart out. Magic. On the way down we saw another 2 Golden
Eagles plus another and 2 Long-legged Buzzards on the way back to Van. A
quick stop at Bendimahi Marshes produced a Curlew Sandpiper and now 8
White-headed Ducks. On to South Van Marshes where we eventually saw 3
Reed Buntings (of the form caspia) plus Bearded Tit, 2 Great Reed
Warblers and a Glossy Ibis. We then went to Ercek Golu and the small
marsh on the right of the road. Here we were delighted with 2 performing
Moustached Warblers plus 2 Great Reed Warblers and a fine male Stonechat
(of the form armenicus). On the main lake were 25 White-winged Black
Terns and 125 Black-necked Grebes. This was followed by my personal
logistical disaster. Despite pleas from others that going to Cizre (our
next destination) via Tatvan would give the others the chance of large
numbers of Rose-coloured Starlings I said that this route via Siirt and
Sirnak had been advised against by many as full of military checkpoints.
Also the very much longer alternative of going via Batman and Midyat
would take hours and hours. My brilliant suggestion was to go via Hakkari and then along the Iraqi border to Cizre.
A much shorter route and the chance of encountering something different.
We certainly did. Ten hours and 20 terrifying military checkpoints later we finally emerged
from what can only be described as an active ‘war zone’. Tanks, armoured
personal carriers, machine gun nests, artillery, soldiers carrying
rocket propelled grenades and hundreds of them at a time disappearing
into the mountain side darkness on patrol plus the obstacle of unlit
spiked road blocks. At times it appeared that even a wrong look or an
accidental pressing of the accelerator pedal might get us all shot at!
July 15th. Nice to be birding again. Dawn on the bridge over the
river Tigris. An amazing number of trucks were heading to either Syria
or Iran. 4 Pied Kingfishers straight away but the traffic noise was too
much so we headed off about 2 kilometres up river to where there are a
number of gravel islands. We soon first saw one then two Red-wattled
Plovers. They flew from the far side to give us fantastic flights views
calling all the time and then alighted on the shore right in front of
us. We also saw 22 Slender-billed Gulls, 2 Squacco Herons, a Peregrine
and another Pied Kingfisher. Now elated we drove on to the ferry
crossing over the River Euphrates to the west of Siverek. The ferry is
just like a World War II landing craft. Excellent birding during the
crossing with an Egyptian and 3 Griffon Vultures, 2 White and 3 Black
Storks plus 50 Little Swifts along the cliffs. We then went on to Nemrut
Dagi. There was an absolute feast of birds to see here; 10
White-throated Robin, 8 Eastern Rock Nuthatch and 2 Western, 3 Upcher’s
Warbler, 5 Kurdistan Wheatear, 15 Woodchat Shrike, 2 Rufous Bush Chat,
20 Shorelark, 2 Finsch’s Wheatear, 3 Red-rumped Swallow, and singles of
Rock Sparrow, Yellow-throated Sparrow, Cinereous Bunting, Ortolan
Bunting, Snowfinch, Chukar, Eastern Olivaceous Warbler, Eastern Orphean
Warbler and a very brief Olive-tree Warbler. Overhead first an Osprey
then a Short-toed Eagle. On the very top we had to enduring a thunder
storm with hail the size of marbles that actually hurt! On the way back
we thought war really had started. At a quarry a kilometre or so away
there was an explosion that knocked us all off our feet and scared us to
death. That evening we found out that the location of hotels in Turkey
are not exactly where they purport to be in their literature quoting a
larger nearby town. This meant a somewhat expensive night in Adiyaman.
July 16th. Off to Atatuk Baragi for Blue-cheeked Bee-eater. This
proved to be the major disappointment of the trip. Despite enumerable
directions from various sources we were unable to locate the site
despite over 2 hours of searching. We did see 15 Rollers in a sand pit
to the north of the bridge on the west side together with a Pied
Kingfisher and 6 Laughing Doves. We reluctantly, then set off for
Birecik. First port of call was the gravel pits, which is a brilliant
site for birding. We had good views of at least 5 Iraq Babblers together
on a gravel track GPS:
N 37.0491, E 37.9699 plus 6 Graceful Prinia, 5
Desert Finch, 3 Black Francolin, 6 Pygmy Cormorant and 2 Reed Warblers
(of the form fuscus) all of which were new for the trip. Added to this
we also saw, 3 Squacco Heron, 3 Night Heron, Little Bittern, 4 Roller, 3
Hoopoe, 8 Pied Kingfisher, Upcher’s Warbler and a Little Owl. We then
departed for the shade of the Café Gulhane in central Birecik. The café
owner and the locals were all impressively helpful in immediately
showing us where the location of the Striated Scops Owls. We saw 4
juveniles all in a row. Absolutely superb. Double Pepsi Cola’s all
round! We also saw 3 Long-eared Owls and heard just 1 Scops Owl. Mid
afternoon saw us off to the Ibis Wadi. Too late, they had all been
recaptured and interned in their large cage. We did however manage five
brief views of See-see Partridge, including one running along the top of
the wadi, plus 6 Eastern Olivaceous Warblers. We then went onto the wadi
opposite the Isik Restaurant where we saw another See-see Partridge.
July 17th. A dawn visit to the cool Ibis Wadi produced birds as
the day before as well as 6 Ménétries' Warbler, a Dead Sea Sparrow,
Rufous Bush Chat and 4 Roller. On Birecik cliffs GPS:
N 37.03858, E
37.98182 we observed 10 Little Swift and a Peregrine. We then drove 4 kms north to the orchards at Altinova Koyu. Here we saw another 8 Dead
Sea Sparrows, 5 Rufous Bush Chat, 3 Yellow-throated Sparrow, a Ménétries'
Warbler, 2 Syrian Woodpecker, Hoopoe and 2 Black-bellied Sandgrouse. We
then travelled some 20 kms east to Yaycalik Koyu GPS:
N 37.002788, E
38.151113 for a new site for See-see Partridge. We had no success with
that species but we did see a large covey of 20 Chukar. We then returned
westward to stop at Isikli. Here we had 3 Yellow-vented Bulbul plus 5
White-throated Robin, 2 Red-rumped Swallow and singles of Long-legged
Buzzard, Woodchat Shrike, Sombre Tit, Cinereous Bunting and Eastern
Black-eared Wheatear. A visit to nearby Durnalik was not producing
anything so we set off for Dermirkazik.
July 18th. Up at 04:00 for the tractor ride as the land rover was
in for repairs. We arrived at the meeting place to find no tractor, but
we did hear a Nightjar churring. I suggested to Ali that we drive on
ahead with the other three opting for the relative safety of the tractor
drive. In twenty years of being a mountain guide and Snowcock host this
was the first time that anybody had attempted to drive a standard car
halfway up the mountain. He was most impressed. After a few cups of
coffee the tractor eventually caught us up and we joined them for the
bumpy but exhilarating drive up to the watch point. It was quite chilly
with a lot of variable cloud drifting in and out. After a while the
curlew like eerie calls of the snowcocks echoed across the mountain
side. Then all of a sudden we had located one, then two, three and four
all walking along to eventually arrive and sit on the skyline. What a
thrill, magic, pure magic, we were watching Caspian Snowcocks! Whilst we
were at the watch point we had great views of a Wallcreeper while lying
on our backs looking vertically. On our slow walk back to the car we saw
some 15 Chough, 3 Alpine Accentor, 2 Red-fronted Serin, 3 Rock Bunting,
5 Shorelark and singles of Snowfinch, Crimson-winged Finch and Western
Rock Nuthatch. Overhead were a few Alpine Swifts and Crag Martins and a
distant Golden Eagle. While tracking the eagle two of us managed to get
onto a Lammergeier which unfortunately disappeared all too quickly.
Further down we saw 2 Long-legged Buzzards and 6 Red-backed Shrikes.
Much elated after our morning in the clouds we returned for a hearty
breakfast with Ali. We then drove to Adana and the Tarsus Delta. We
arrived at the well directed canal junction site near Havutlu. This is
definitely the most unappealing birding site I have ever experienced.
However for all that, we did see the target in the form of 3
White-breasted Kingfishers plus 2 each of Squacco Heron and
Yellow-vented Bulbul. We next ventured south to Tuzla Golu, a large lake
just inland from the Mediterranean. Birding here was terrific. Little
Bittern, Squacco Heron, 150 Slender-billed Gulls, 50 Little Tern, 3
Black Tern, 15 Spur-winged Plover, 2 Stone Curlew, 150 Kentish Plover,
12 Little Stint, 5 Curlew Sandpiper and 3 Greenshank. On the land were
Rufous Bush Chat, Spanish Sparrow, Great Reed Warbler, 2 Calandra Lark,
2 Graceful Prinia and overhead a Peregrine. We tried for another of my
‘shortcuts’ and headed west to find ourselves in the village of Tabaklar.
We headed further west past a mosque to the River Seyhan Nebri where the
road ran along the eastern side all the way back to Havutlu on the main
Adana to Karatus road. As soon as we got to the river we encountered an
enormous heronry. We were stuck for time and it was getting dark so we
only stopped a few minutes. From our brief view in semi-darkness we
could detect 100’s of Little Egrets, Squacco Herons and Night Herons
with some Glossy Ibis also. There were most probably other species there
as well. Certainly a site for next time. On the drive along the river we
also encountered a feeding flock of at least 20 Collared Pratincoles,
with another White-breasted Kingfisher on overhead wires and a hunting
Barn Owl.
July 19th. A dawn start at the tower hide at Akgol GPS:
N
36.29446, E 33.93293 (the road entrance is at GPS:
N36.33387, E
33.89995) in the Goksu Delta. Here we saw our prize of 2 Grey-headed
Swamp-hen. We also saw our only Cormorant, 5 Squacco Heron, a Purple
Heron, 4 Penduline Tits, 2 Black-headed Wagtails and a Reed Warbler (of
the form fuscus). We then drove inland towards Akseki, our final birding
site. On the way at Aydinkisla near Bozkir we saw an Egyptian Vulture on
an electricity pylon with 2 Isabelline Wheatears on adjacent wires and a
nearby Lesser Grey Shrike. On arrival at Akseki we walked round the
graveyard which produced at least 5 Masked Shrikes and 2 Syrian
Woodpeckers with our only Blackcap. We then went to the walled
plantation also mentioned in ‘Gosney’ where we found an Eastern
Bonelli’s Warbler, 5 Sombre Tit, 8 Raven, a Spotted Flycatcher, 2
Long-legged Buzzards, Eastern Orphean Warbler, Middle Spotted Woodpecker
and 3 Eastern Black-eared Wheatears. We finally went to the northern
site located off the Akseki by-pass as mentioned in ‘Gosney’ and we
found a single Krüper's Nuthatch but unfortunately no sign of any
White-backed Woodpeckers.
July 20th. With the rest of the party departing in the early
hours to London Gatwick this was to be my duding out day. Starting the
morning with breakfast on the roof top terrace it seemed very hot. It
just got hotter and hotter so I went into the sea to cool down until
lunchtime. On finding a restaurant overlooking the cliffs and with a
little sea breeze I enquired from the waiters, who all looked very
distressed, what was the temperature. + 40 deg. C. I suggested. What
about a record 52 deg. C.
Definitely time to go back into the sea! Final birds seen were 6
Yellow-vented Bulbul’s.
Literature and References
Gosney, D. Finding Birds Turkey: Ankara to Birecik.
Gosney, D. Finding Birds in Eastern Turkey.
Mullarney, K. et al. 2001. Collins Bird Guide.
Porter, R.F et al. 2007. Birds of the Middle East.
Chris Batty (2003).
Donaghy, N. Iraq Babbler – a new breeding bird for Turkey. Birding
World vol. 19 no. 7 pages 283-284.
Michael Grunwell (2005)
Chris
Lansdell (2007).
Occhiato, D. Nemrut Dagi, Adiyaman. Birding World vol. 14 no. 8 pages
343-344.
Klaus Malling Olsen (2005,2006,2007 and 2009).
Fraser Simpson (2008).
GeoCenter 1:800,000 Euromap of Turkey.
Flights
London Stansted to Istanbul Sabiha Gocken via
Pegasus Airlines @ £119.00
(280.53TL)
Istanbul Sabiha Gocken to Van via Pegasus Airlines @ £37.75 (88.99TL)
Antalya to London Stansted via Cyprus Turkish Airlines @ £95.23
(213.85TL)
Rest of Party:
London Gatwick to Antalya with
Thomas Cook @ £194.00 each return
Antalya to Van via Turkish Airlines @ £46.00 each
Antalya to London Gatwick
Car Hire
From and return to Van Airport for 4 days.
Renault Clio for £142.44 (301.00TL plus €21.19 deposit) booked via
www.carrentals.co.uk
and supplied locally by Europcar.
Toyota Corolla on One Way hire from Van Airport to Antalya Airport for 7
days for £482.96 booked directly with
Europcar.
Note the electrical engine management system failed part way through and
we had to change to a Ford Focus in Gaziantep.
Europcar gave appalling
service during this time.
Despite writing to their Customer Services Director personally,
Europcar
were completely indifferent to our complaints. As a result we would
seriously advise all birders not to book car hire with this company.
Note: A Toyota Corolla is not suited for the terrain usually
encountered by birders with a very low undercarriage!
Hotels
We would particularly recommended the Grand Onsar Hotel in Cizre, Hotel
Horizont in Kizalesi 20km east of Silifke and the Ozmen Pansiyon in the
Old Town part of Antalya.
Grand Merin Hotel, Kartal, Istanbul - (***) 94.50TL single (stop over
near airport)
Hotel Grand Arsisa, Ercis, Van - (***) 70.00TL single HB
Sim-er Hotel, Dogubayazit - (***) 65.00TL single (x 2 nights)
Tusba Hotel, Edremit, Van - (***) 45.00TL single
Hotel Erdur Dogubayazit - (*) 75.00TL twin
Grand Onsar Hotel, Cizre - (***) 75.00TL twin
Hotel Grand Isias, Adiyaman - (****) 120.00TL twin
Mirkelam Motel, Birecik - (?*) €22.50 twin
Oz Safak Pansiyon, Demirkazik €55.00 per person HB including Snowcock
trip.
Hotel Horizont,Kizalesi, Silifke -(***) 75.00TL twin
Ozmen Pansiyon, Antalya €25.00 single
Restaurants
We can recommend the following, both very good for fish and with superb
locations.
Kiyi, Birecik - (overlooking River Euphrates)
Nesetin Yeri, Kahta - (overlooking Ataturk Lake)
Systematic List
1. Great Crested Grebe Podiceps cristatus
Bendimahi Marshes : 20 – 10.07.09
Kazgol, Caldiran : 8 – 12.07.09
2. Black-necked Grebe Podiceps nigricollis
Bendimahi Marshes : 50 – 10.07.09
Bendimahi Marshes : 10 – 13.07.09
Bendimahi Marshes : 10 – 14.07.09
Ercek Golu : 125 – 14.07.09
3. Little Grebe Tachybaptus ruficollis/capensis
Bendimahi Marshes : 6 – 10.07.09
4. Cormorant Phalacrocorax carbo sinensis
Akgol, Goksu Delta : 1 – 19.07.09
5. Pygmy Cormorant Phalacrocorax pygmeus
Birecik Gravel Pits : 6 – 16.07.09
6. Little Bittern Ixobrychus minutus minutus
Birecik Gravel Pits : 1 – 16.07.09
Tuzla Golu : 1 – 18.07.09
7. Night Heron Nycticorax nycticorax
Ercis : 15 – 10.07.09
Bendimahi Marshes : 1 – 10.07.09
Birecik Gravel Pits : 3 – 16.07.09
Tabaklar (Heronry on banks of River Seyhan Nebri) : 000’s – 18.07.09
8. Squacco Heron Ardeola ralloides
Bendimahi Marshes : 3 – 10.07.09
Bendimahi Marshes : 4 – 13.07.09
Cizre : 2 – 15.07.09
Birecik Gravel Pits : 3 – 16.07.09
Havutlu : 2 – 18.07.09
Tuzla Golu : 1 – 18.07.09
Tabaklar (Heronry on banks of River Seyhan Nebri) : 000’s – 18.07.09
Akgol, Goksu Delta : 5 – 19.07.09
9. Little Egret Egretta garzetta garzetta
South Van Marshes : 1 – 13.07.09
Bendimahi Marshes : 5 – 13.07.09
Cizre : 1 – 15.07.09
Havutlu : 1 – 18.07.09
Tuzla Golu : 3 – 18.07.09
Tabaklar (Heronry on banks of River Seyhan Nebri) : 000’s – 18.07.09
10. Grey Heron Ardea cinerea cinerea
11. Purple Heron Ardea purpurea purpurea
Bendimahi Marshes : 2 – 10.07.09
Bendimahi Marshes : 1 – 12.07.09
Bendimahi Marshes : 1 – 13.07.09
Bendimahi Marshes : 1 – 14.07.09
Akgol, Goksu Delta : 1 – 19.07.09
12. White Stork Ciconia ciconia
Ercis : 2 – 10.07.09
Kazgol, Caldiran : 2 – 12.07.09
Euphrates crossing west of Siverek : 2 – 15.07.09
13. Black Stork Ciconia nigra
Euphrates crossing west of Siverek : 3 – 15.07.09
14. Glossy Ibis Plegadis falcinellus
South Van Marshes : 1 – 14.07.09
Tabaklar (Heronry on banks of River Seyhan Nebri) : ‘some’ – 18.07.09
15. Ruddy Shelduck Tadorna ferriginea
Van Hills : 2 - 09.07.09
Kazgol, Caldiran : 8 – 12.07.09
South Van Marshes : 11 – 13.07.09
Bendimahi Marshes : 3 – 13.07.09
South Van Marshes : 7 – 14.07.09
16. Mallard Anas plathyrhynchos
17. Teal Anas crecca
Birecik Gravel Pits : 1 – 16.07.09
18. Pochard Aythya farina
Bendimahi Marshes : 100 – 10.07.09
Kazgol, Caldiran : 10 – 12.07.09
19. Tufted Duck Aythya fuligula
Kazgol, Caldiran : 1 – 12.07.09
20. Ferruginous Duck Aythya ferruginea
Bendimahi Marshes : 1 – 14.07.09
21. White-headed Duck Oxyuca leucocephala
Bendimahi Marshes : 1 – 10.07.09
Bendimahi Marshes : 3 – 13.07.09
Bendimahi Marshes : 8 – 14.07.09
22. Lammergeier Gypaetus barbatus barbatus
Cimbar Bogazi, Demirkazik : 1 – 18.07.09
23. Griffon Vulture Gyps fulvus fulvus
Euphrates crossing west of Siverek : 3 – 15.07.09
24. Egyptian Vulture Neophron percnopterus percnopterus
Van Hills : 1 - 09.07.09
Soguksu : 3 – 12.07.09
Tarmali Gecidi : - 1 14.07.09
Euphrates crossing west of Siverek : 1 – 15.07.09
Aydinkisla, Bozkir : 2 – 19.07.09
25. Golden Eagle Aquila chrysaetos homeyeri
Ishak Pasa : 2 – 14.07.09
Somkaya : 1 – 14.07.09
Cimbar Bogazi, Demirkazik : 1 – 18.07.09
26. Lesser Spotted Eagle Aquila pomarina pomarina
Soguksu : 1 – 10.07.09
27. Short-toed Eagle Circaetus gallicus
Nemrut Dagi : 1 – 15.07.09
28. Booted Eagle Aquila pennatus
Van Hills : 1 - 09.07.09 (pale morph)
29. Black Kite Milvus migrans migrans
Sertavul Gecidi : 5 – 19.07.09
30. Marsh Harrier Circus aeruginosus aeruginosus
Bendimahi Marshes : 6 – 10.07.09
Soguksu : 1 – 10.07.09
Kazgol, Caldiran : 2 – 12.07.09
South Van Marshes : 1 – 13.07.09
Bendimahi Marshes : 1 – 13.07.09
31. Long-legged Buzzard Buteo rufinis rufinus
Van Hills : 4 - 09.07.09
Gulicar : 2 – 12.07.09
Soguksu : 1 – 12.07.09
Kazgol, Caldiran : 2 – 12.07.09
Soguksu : 2 – 13.07.09
Tendurek Gecidi : 2 – 13.07.09
Somkaya : 2 – 14.07.09
Isikli : 1 – 17.07.09
Cimbar Bogazi, Demirkazik : 2 – 18.07.09
Akseki : 2 – 19.07.09
32. Osprey Pandion haliaetus
Nemrut Dagi : 1 – 15.07.09
33. Kestrel Falco tinnunculus tinnunculus
Ishak Pasa : 2 – 14.07.09
34. Hobby Falco subbuteo subbuteo
Soguksu : 1 – 10.07.09
Kazgol, Caldiran : 1 – 12.07.09
Bendimahi Marshes : 1 – 12.07.09
Soguksu : 1 – 14.07.09
Hakkari to Cizre : 2 – 14.07.09
35. Peregrine Falcon Falco peregrinus brookei
Cizre : 1 – 15.07.09
Birecik Cliffs : 1 – 17.07.09
Tuzla Golu : 1 – 18.07.09
36. Caspian Snowcock Tetraogallus caspicus
Cimbar Bogazi, Demirkazik : 4 – 18.07.09
37. Black Francolin Francolinus francolinus francolinus
Birecik Gravel Pits : 3 – 16.07.09
38. See-see Partridge Amnoperdix griseogularis
Birecik, Ibis Wadi : 2+ – 16.07.09
Birecik, Isik Restaurant Wadi : 1 – 16.07.09
39. Chukar Alectoris chukar
Tendurek Gecidi : 1 – 13.07.09
Nemrut Dagi : 1 – 15.07.09
Yaycalik Koyu : 20 – 17.07.09
40. Quail Coturnix coturnix coturnix
Serpmentas : 1 – 10.07.09
Soguksu : 1 – 10.07.09
Ishak Pasa Hinterland : 3 – 11.07.09
Kazgol, Caldiran : 10+ – 12.07.09
41. Water Rail Rallus aquaticus aquaticus
42. Moorhen Gallinalo chloropus chloropus
South Van Marshes : 1 – 13.07.09
43. Coot Fulica atra
44. Grey-headed Swamp-hen Porpohyrio porphyrio caspius
Akgol, Goksu Delta : 2 – 19.07.09
45. Common Crane Grus grus
Kazgol, Caldiran : 3 – 12.07.09
46. Stone-curlew Burhinus oedicnemus saharae
Tuzla Golu : 2 – 18.07.09
47. Oystercatcher Haematopus ostralegus
South Van Marshes : 13 – 13.07.09
48. Avocet Recurviristra avosetta
Bendimahi Marshes : 400 – 10.07.09
Bendimahi Marshes : 400 – 12.07.09
South Van Marshes : 250 – 13.07.09
Bendimahi Marshes : 400 – 13.07.09
49. Black-winged Stilt Himantopus himantopus himantopus
Bendimahi Marshes : 150 – 10.07.09
Bendimahi Marshes : 150– 12.07.09
South Van Marshes : 50 – 13.07.09
Bendimahi Marshes : 30 – 13.07.09
South Van Marshes : 250 – 14.07.09
Ercek Golu : 2 – 14.07.09
50. Collared Pratincole Glareola pratincola pratincola
Cizre : 2 – 15.07.09
River Seyhan Nebri back to Havutlu : 20+ – 18.07.09
51. Little Ringed Plover Charadrius dubius curonicus
Kazgol, Caldiran : 2 – 12.07.09
South Van Marshes : 12 – 13.07.09
South Van Marshes : 2 – 14.07.09
Ercek Golu : 1 – 14.07.09
Tuzla Golu : 1 – 18.07.09
52. Kentish Plover Charadrius alexandrinus alexandrinus
South Van Marshes : 10 – 13.07.09
Tuzla Golu : 150 – 18.07.09
53. Lapwing Vanellus vanellus
54. Spur-winged Plover Vanellus spinosus
Tuzla Golu : 15 – 18.07.09
55. Red-wattled Plover Hoplopterus indicus aigneri
Cizre : 2 - 15.07.09
56. Curlew Sandpiper Calidris ferruginea
Bendimahi Marshes : 1 – 14.07.09
Tuzla Golu : 5 – 18.07.09
57. Little Stint Calidris minutes
Tuzla Golu : 12 – 18.07.09
58. Green Sandpiper Tringa ochrorus
Bendimahi Marshes : 1 – 10.07.09
Serpmentas : 1 – 10.07.09
South Van Marshes : 10 – 13.07.09
South Van Marshes : 15 – 14.07.09
Ercek Golu : 1 – 14.07.09
Birecik Gravel Pits : 4 – 16.07.09
Tuzla Golu : 1 – 18.07.09
River Seyhan Nebri back to Havutlu : 1 – 18.07.09
Akgol, Goksu Delta : 1 – 19.07.09
59. Common Sandpiper Actitis hypoleucus
South Van Marshes : 10 – 13.07.09
South Van Marshes : 20 – 14.07.09
Ercek Golu : 1 – 14.07.09
Cizre : 3 – 15.07.09
Birecik Gravel Pits : 1 – 16.07.09
Tuzla Golu : 1 – 18.07.09
60. Greenshank Tringa nebularia
Bendimahi Marshes : 1 – 13.07.09
South Van Marshes : 1 – 14.07.09
Ercek Golu : 1 – 14.07.09
Cizre : 1 – 15.07.09
Tuzla Golu : 3 – 18.07.09
61. Redshank Tringa totanus totanus
Ercis : 1 – 10.07.09
62. Spotted Redshank Tringa erythropus
Bendimahi Marshes : 1 – 10.07.09
63. Snipe Gallinago gallinago
Tuzla Golu : 1 – 18.07.09
64 Ruff Philomachus pugnax
Bendimahi Marshes : 5 – 10.07.09
Bendimahi Marshes : 30 – 13.07.09
Bendimahi Marshes : 50 – 14.07.09
65. Black-headed Gull Chroicephalus ridibundus
66. Slender-billed Gull Chroicephalus genei
Bendimahi Marshes : 30 – 10.07.09
Bendimahi Marshes : 56 – 12.07.09
South Van Marshes : 800 – 13.07.09
Bendimahi Marshes : 1 – 13.07.09
Bendimahi Marshes : 8 – 14.07.09
South Van Marshes : 2 – 14.07.09
Ercek Golu : 1 – 14.07.09
Cizre : 22 – 15.07.09
Tuzla Golu : 150 – 18.07.09
67. Yellow-legged Gull Larus michahellis
68. Armenian Gull Larus armenicus
Van Hills : 100+ - 09.07.09
South Van Marshes : 100+ - 13.07.09
69. Little Tern Sterna albifrons albifrons
Bendimahi Marshes : 1 – 10.07.09
Cizre : 4 – 15.07.09
Tuzla Golu : 50 – 18.07.09
70. Gull-billed Tern Gelochelidon nilotica nilotica
Bendimahi Marshes : 1 – 10.07.09
Bendimahi Marshes : 3 – 12.07.09
Bendimahi Marshes : 12 – 13.07.09
Bendimahi Marshes : 1 – 14.07.09
71. Common Tern Sterna hirundo hirundo
Bendimahi Marshes : 3 – 13.07.09
Cizre : 4 – 15.07.09
Euphrates crossing west of Siverek : 5 – 15.07.09
72. Black Tern Chlidonias niger niger
Tuzla Golu : 3 – 18.07.09
73. Whiskered Tern Chlidonias hybrida hybrida
Bendimahi Marshes : 4 – 10.07.09
South Van Marshes : 1 – 13.07.09
74. White-winged Black Tern Chlidonias leucopterus
Bendimahi Marshes : 3 – 10.07.09
South Van Marshes : 53 – 13.07.09
Bendimahi Marshes : 40 – 13.07.09
Ercek Golu : 25 – 14.07.09
75. Black-bellied Sandgrouse Pterocles orientalis orientalis
Bendimahi Marshes : 1 – 10.07.09
Altinova Koyu (orchards 4km north of Birecik) : 2 – 17.07.09
76. Rock Dove Columba livia livia
Van Hills : 200 - 09.07.09
77. Wood Pigeon Columba palumbus palumbus
78. Collared Dove Streptopelia decaocta decaocta
79. Turtle Dove Sterptopelia turtur turtur
Nemrut Dagi : 1 – 15.07.09
Birecik Gravel Pits : 20 – 16.07.09
80. Laughing Dove Sterptopelia senegalensis phoenicophila
Kantal, Istanbul : 2 – 08.07.09
Cizre : 2 – 15.07.09
Adiyaman : 10 – 16.07.09
Ataturk Baraji : 6 – 16.07.09
Antalya : 3 – 20.07.09
81. Cuckoo Cuculus canorus canorus
Tendurek Gecidi : 1 – 10.07.09
Sim er Hotel, Dogubayazit : 2 – 11.07.09
Tendurek Gecidi : 4 – 12.07.09
82. Long-eared Owl Asio otus otus
Birecik, Café Gulhane : 3 – 16.07.09
83. Barn Owl Tyto alba erlangeri
River Seyhan Nebri back to Havutlu : 1 – 18.07.09
84. Little Owl Athene noctua indigena
Birecik Gravel Pits : 1 – 16.07.09
85. Striated Scops Owl Otus brucei obsoletus
Birecik, Café Gulhane : 4 – 16.07.09
86. Alpine Swift Apus melba melba
Kantal, Istanbul : 6 – 08.07.09
Sim er Hotel, Dogubayazit : 2 – 11.07.09
Van Fort : 40 – 13.07.09
Ishak Pasa : 20 – 14.07.09
Cimbar Bogazi, Demirkazik : 7 – 18.07.09
87. Pallid Swift Apus pallidus brehmorum
Ishak Pasa : a few seen – 14.07.09
88. Swift Apus apus apus
89. Little Swift Apus affinis galilejensis
Euphrates crossing west of Siverek : 50 – 15.07.09
Birecik Cliffs : 10 – 17.07.09
90. Nightjar Caprimulgus europaeus meridionalis
Cimbar Bogazi, Demirkazik : 1 – 18.07.09
91. Hoopoe Upupa epops epops
Van Hills : 18 - 09.07.09
Ercis : 3 – 10.07.09
Bendimahi Marshes : 2 – 10.07.09
Sim er Hotel, Dogubayazit : 1 – 11.07.09
Ishak Pasa : 2 – 11.07.09
Van Fort : 2 – 13.07.09
Bendimahi Marshes : 2 – 13.07.09
Soguksu : 2 – 13.07.09
Nemrut Dagi : 1 – 15.07.09
Birecik Gravel Pits : 3 – 16.07.09
Altinova Koyu (orchards 4km north of Birecik) : 3 – 17.07.09
Cimbar Bogazi, Demirkazik : 1 – 18.07.09
92. White-breasted Kingfisher Halcyon smyrnensis smyrnensis
Havutlu : 3 – 18.07.09
River Seyhan Nebri back to Havutlu : 1 – 18.07.09
93. Pied Kingfisher Ceryle rudis rudis
Cizre : 5 – 15.07.09
Ataturk Baraji : 1 – 16.07.09
Birecik Gravel Pits : 8 – 16.07.09
94. Bee-eater Merops apiaster
Ercis : 1 – 10.07.09
Bendimahi Marshes : 4 – 10.07.09
Tendurek Gecidi : 1 – 10.07.09
Gulicar : 2 – 12.07.09
Bendimahi Marshes : 2 – 13.07.09
Tarmali Gecidi : - 1 14.07.09
Hakkari to Cizre : 2 – 14.07.09
Ataturk Baraji : 5 – 16.07.09
Birecik, Ibis Wadi : 3 – 16.07.09
95. Roller Coracius garrulus garrulus
Ercis : 1 – 10.07.09
Gulicar : 1 – 12.07.09
Van Fort : 1 – 13.07.09
Ataturk Baraji : 15 – 16.07.09
Birecik Gravel Pits : 4 – 16.07.09
Birecik, Ibis Wadi : 4 – 17.07.09
96. Syrian Woodpecker Dendrocopus syriacus
Nemrut Dagi : 2 – 15.07.09
Birecik, Ibis Wadi : 3 – 16.07.09
Birecik, Isik Restaurant Wadi : 2 – 16.07.09
Birecik, Ibis Wadi : 1 – 17.07.09
Altinova Koyu (orchards 4km north of Birecik) : 2 – 17.07.09
Akseki : 2 – 19.07.09
97. Middle Spotted Woodpecker Dendrocopus medius ??
Akseki : 1 – 19.07.09
98. Skylark Alauda arvensis armenica
Ishak Pasa Hinterland : 10 – 11.07.09
99. Crested Lark Galerida cristata ??
Bendimahi Marshes : 2 – 10.07.09
Serpmentas : 2 – 10.07.09
Cizre : 4 – 15.07.09
Tuzla Golu: 50 – 18.07.09
100. Short-toed Lark Calandrella brachydactyla artemisiana/woltersi
Serpmentas : 2 – 10.07.09
Tuzla Golu : 5 – 18.07.09
101. Calandra Lark Melanocoryphra calandra calandra
Ercis : 3 – 10.07.09
Tuzla Golu : 2 – 18.07.09
102. Bimaculated Lark Melanocorypha bimaculata bimaculata/rufescens
Ishak Pasa Hinterland : 5 – 11.07.09
Tendurek Gecidi : 7 – 12.07.09
103. Shore Lark Eremohila alpestris penicillata/kumerloevei
Tendurek Gecidi : 9 – 10.07.09
Ishak Pasa Hinterland : 25 – 11.07.09
Tendurek Gecidi : 6 – 12.07.09
Tendurek Gecidi : 4 – 13.07.09
Nemrut Dagi : 20 – 15.07.09
Cimbar Bogazi, Demirkazik : 5 – 18.07.09
104. Sand Martin Riparia riparia riparia
Ercis : 200 – 10.07.09
105. Crag Martin Ptyonoprogne rupestris
Hakkari to Cizre : 2 – 14.07.09
Cimbar Bogazi, Demirkazik : 2 – 18.07.09
106. Swallow Hirundo rustica rustica
107. Red-rumped Swallow Cecropis daurica rufula
Nemrut Dagi : 3 – 15.07.09
Isikli : 2 – 17.07.09
108. House Martin Delichon urbica
Ishak Pasa : 5 – 11.07.09
109. Tawny Pipit Anthus campestris
Ishak Pasa : 1 – 11.07.09
Ishak Pasa Hinterland : 2 – 11.07.09
Gulicar : 2 – 12.07.09
Kazgol, Caldiran : 1 – 12.07.09
Ishak Pasa : 1 – 14.07.09
110. White Wagtail Motacilla alba alba
Bendimahi Marshes : 4 – 10.07.09
Soguksu : 2 – 12.07.09
111. (Black-headed) Yellow Wagtail Motacilla flava feldegg
Bendimahi Marshes : 10 – 10.07.09
Kazgol, Caldiran : 25+ – 12.07.09
South Van Marshes : 8 – 13.07.09
Bendimahi Marshes : 8 – 13.07.09
South Van Marshes : 6 – 14.07.09
Ercek Golu : 2 – 14.07.09
Akgol, Goksu Delta : 2 – 19.07.09
112. Citrine Wagtail Motacilla citreola werae
Bendimahi Marshes : 1 – 10.07.09
113. Grey Wagtail Motacilla cinerea cinerea
Hakkari to Cizre : 1 – 14.07.09
114. Yellow-vented Bulbul Pycnonotus xanthopygos
Isikli : 3 – 17.07.09
Havutlu : 2 – 18.07.09
Antalya : 6 – 20.07.09
115. Radde´s Accentor Prunella ocularis
Tendurek Gecidi : 3 – 12.07.09
Tendurek Gecidi : 2 – 13.07.09
116. Alpine Accentor Prunella collaris montana
Tendurek Gecidi : 1 – 10.07.09
Ishak Pasa : 20 – 11.07.09
Soguksu : 1 – 12.07.09
Cimbar Bogazi, Demirkazik : 3 – 18.07.09
118. Rufous Bush Chat Cercotrichas galactotes syriacus/familiaris
Nemrut Dagi : 2 – 15.07.09
Birecik, Ibis Wadi : 1 – 17.07.09
Altinova Koyu (orchards 4km north of Birecik) : 5 – 17.07.09
Tuzla Golu : 1 – 18.07.09
120. White-throated Robin Irania guturralis
Nemrut Dagi : 10 – 15.07.09
Isikli : 5 – 17.07.09
121. Black Redstart Phoenicurus ochruros ochruros
Tendurek Gecidi : 4 – 10.07.09
Ishak Pasa : 2 – 11.07.09
Soguksu : 2 – 12.07.09
Soguksu : 2 – 13.07.09
Soguksu : 5 – 14.07.09
Cimbar Bogazi, Demirkazik : 1 – 18.07.09
122. Wheatear Oenanthe oenanthe libanotica
123. Isabelline Wheatear Oenanthe isabellina
Van Hills : 6 - 09.07.09
Ishak Pasa : 2 – 11.07.09
Aydinkisla, Bozkir : 2 – 19.07.09
124. Eastern Black-eared Wheatear Oenanthe hispanica melanoleuca
Isikli : 1 – 17.07.09
Akseki : 3 – 19.07.09
125. Finschs´s Wheatear Oenanthe finchii finchii
Van Hills : 25 - 09.07.09
Ercis : 2 – 10.07.09
Serpmentas : 6 – 10.07.09
Nemrut Dagi : 2 – 15.07.09
126. Kurdish Wheatear Oenanthe xanthoprymna
Nemrut Dagi : 5 – 15.07.09
126.1. Red-tailed wheatear sp. Oenanthe xanthoprymna/chrysopygia
Van Hills : 1 - 09.07.09 [see comments earlier in report]
127. Stonechat Saxicola maurus armenicus
Ercek Golu : 25 – 14.07.09
128. Blue Rock Thrush Monticola solitarius longirostris
Van Hills : 4 - 09.07.09
Ishak Pasa : 2 – 14.07.09
129. Rock Thrush Monticola saxatilis saxatilis
Soguksu : 1 – 10.07.09
Tendurek Gecidi : 7 – 10.07.09
Ishak Pasa Hinterland : 2 – 11.07.09
Tendurek Gecidi : 6 – 12.07.09
Soguksu : 3 – 12.07.09
Soguksu : 3 – 13.07.09
Tendurek Gecidi : 1 – 13.07.09
130. Mistle Thrush Turdus viscivorus viscivorus
Akseki : 1 – 19.07.09
131. Blackbird Turdus merula aterrimus/syriacus
132. Blackcap Sylvia atricapilla atricapilla
Akseki : 1 – 19.07.09
133. Eastern Orphean Warbler Sylvia crassirostris
Nemrut Dagi : 1 – 15.07.09
Akseki : 1 – 19.07.09
134. Lesser Whitethroat Sylvia curruca curruca
Nemrut Dagi : 1 – 15.07.09
Isikli : 3 – 17.07.09
135. Ménétries' Warbler Sylvia mystacea rubescens
Birecik, Ibis Wadi : 6 – 17.07.09
Altinova Koyu (orchards 4km north of Birecik) : 1 – 17.07.09
136. Graceful Warbler Prinia gracialis akyildizi
Birecik Gravel Pits : 6 – 16.07.09
Tuzla Golu : 2 – 18.07.09
137. Moustached Warbler Acrocephalus melanopogon mimicus
Ercek Golu : 2 – 14.07.09
138. Reed Warbler Acrocephalus scirpaceus fuscus
Birecik Gravel Pits : 2 – 16.07.09
Akgol, Goksu Delta : 1 – 19.07.09
139. Great Reed Warbler Acrocephalus arundinaceus arundinaceus
South Van Marshes : 2 – 13.07.09
Bendimahi Marshes : 1 – 13.07.09
South Van Marshes : 2 – 14.07.09
Ercek Golu : 2 – 14.07.09
Tuzla Golu : 1 – 18.07.09
140. Eastern Olivaceous Warbler Hippolais pallida eleica
Serpmentas : 2 – 10.07.09
Nemrut Dagi : 1 – 15.07.09
Birecik, Ibis Wadi : 6 – 16.07.09
Birecik, Ibis Wadi : 6 – 17.07.09
141. Olive-tree Warbler Hippolais olivetorum
Narince : 1 – 15.07.09.
142. Upcher´s Warbler Hippolais languida
Nemrut Dagi : 3 – 15.07.09
Birecik Gravel Pits : 1 – 16.07.09
143. Eastern Bonelli´s Warbler Phylloscopus orientalis
Akseki : 1 – 19.07.09
144. Chiffchaff Phylloscopus collybita brevirostris
Tendurek Gecidi : 2 – 10.07.09
Tendurek Gecidi : 1 – 12.07.09
145. Spotted Flycatcher Muscicapa striata striata
Akseki : 1 – 19.07.09
146.Great Tit Parus major major
147. Blue Tit Cyanistes cauruleus cauruleus
Akseki : 1 – 19.07.09
148. Coal Tit Periparus ater rufolateralis/abietum
Akseki : 1 – 19.07.09
149. Sombre Tit Poecile lugubris anatoliae
Isikli : 1 – 17.07.09
Akseki : 5 – 19.07.09
150. Long-tailed Tit Aegithalos caudatus tephronotus
Akseki : 4 – 19.07.09
151. Penduline Tit Remiz pendulinus pendulinus/menzbieri
Ishak Pasa : 5 – 14.07.09
Akgol, Goksu Delta : 4 – 19.07.09
152. Bearded Tit Panurus biarmicus russicus
Bendimahi Marshes : 8 – 10.07.09
South Van Marshes : 1 – 14.07.09
153. Krüper´s Nuthatch Sitta krueperi
Akseki : 1 – 19.07.09
154. Western Rock Nuthatch Sitta neumayer neumayer
Van Hills : 8 - 09.07.09
Ishak Pasa : 7 – 11.07.09
Ishak Pasa : 1 – 14.07.09
Nemrut Dagi : 2 – 15.07.09
Cimbar Bogazi, Demirkazik : 1 – 18.07.09
155. Eastern Rock Nuthatch Sitta tephoronota dresseri
Nemrut Dagi : 8 – 15.07.09
156. Wallcreeper Tichodroma muraria muraria
Cimbar Bogazi, Demirkazik : 1 – 18.07.09
157. Red-backed Shrike Lanius cullorio cullorio
Cimbar Bogazi, Demirkazik : 6 – 18.07.09
158. Woodchat Shrike Lanius senator niloticus
Nemrut Dagi : 15 – 15.07.09
Isikli : 1 – 17.07.09
159. Masked Shrike Lanius nubicus
Akseki : 5 – 19.07.09
160. Lesser Grey Shrike Lanius minor
Aydinkisla, Bozkir : 1 – 19.07.09
161. Iraq Babbler Turdoides altirostris
Birecik Gravel Pits : 5+ – 16.07.09
162. Magpie Pica pica pica
163. Jay Garrulus glandarius krynicki
164. Chough Pyrrhocorax pyrrhocorax docilis
Cimbar Bogazi, Demirkazik : 10 – 18.07.09
165. Jackdaw Corvus monedula soemmerringii
166. Rook Corvus frugilegus frugilegus
167. Hooded Crow Corvus cornix pallescens/sharpii
Kantal, Istanbul : 6 – 08.07.09
Van Hills : 10 - 09.07.09
Antalya : 1 – 20.07.09
168. Raven Corvus corax laurencei
Akseki : 8 – 19.07.09
169. Starling Sturnus vulgaris ??
170. Rose-coloured Starling Sturnus roseus
Bendimahi Marshes : 500+ – 12.07.09
171. House Sparrow Passer domesticus ??
172. Spanish Sparrow Passer hispaniolensis hispaniolensis/transcaspius
Tuzla Golu : 1 – 18.07.09
173. Dead Sea Sparrow Passer moabitucus mesopotamicus
Birecik, Ibis Wadi : 1 – 17.07.09
Altinova Koyu (orchards 4km north of Birecik) : 8 – 17.07.09
174. Rock Sparrow Petronia petronia exigua/puteicola
Van Hills : 25 - 09.07.09
Gulicar : 2 – 12.07.09
Soguksu : 4 – 12.07.09
Ishak Pasa : 7 – 14.07.09
Nemrut Dagi : 1 – 15.07.09
175. Yellow-throated Sparrow Gymnoris xanthocollis transfuga
Nemrut Dagi : 1 – 15.07.09
Altinova Koyu (orchards 4km north of Birecik) : 3 – 17.07.09
176. Snowfinch Montifringilla nivalis leucura
Serpmentas : 1 – 10.07.09
Ishak Pasa Hinterland : 2 – 11.07.09
Tendurek Gecidi : 1 – 12.07.09
Soguksu : 2 – 12.07.09
Soguksu : 1 – 13.07.09
Tendurek Gecidi : 4 – 13.07.09
Nemrut Dagi : 1 – 15.07.09
Cimbar Bogazi, Demirkazik : 1 – 18.07.09
177. Linnet Cardielis cannabina bella
178. Twite Carduelis flavirostris brevirostris
Serpmentas : 2 – 10.07.09
Tendurek Gecidi : 4 – 10.07.09
Tendurek Gecidi : 1 – 12.07.09
Soguksu : 1 – 13.07.09
Tendurek Gecidi : 8 – 13.07.09
179. Goldfinch Carduelis carduelis niediecki/loudoni
180. Greenfinch Carduelis chloris ??
181. Red-fronted Serin Serinus pusillus
Soguksu : 3 – 10.07.09
Tendurek Gecidi : 3 – 10.07.092
Ishak Pasa : 2 – 11.07.09
Soguksu : 2 – 12.07.09
Cimbar Bogazi, Demirkazik : 2 – 18.07.09
182. Common Rosefinch Carpodacus erythacus kubanensis
Ishak Pasa Hinterland : 2 – 11.07.09
183. Crimson-winged Finch Rhodopectus sanguinea sanguinea
Tendurek Gecidi : 2 – 12.07.09
Soguksu : 4 – 13.07.09
Tendurek Gecidi : 1 – 13.07.09
Cimbar Bogazi, Demirkazik : 1 – 18.07.09
184. Mongolian Trumpeter Finch Bucanetes mongolicus
Soguksu : 8 – 10.07.09
Soguksu : 5+ – 12.07.09
Soguksu : 6 – 13.07.09
Soguksu : 5 – 14.07.09
185. Desert Finch Rhodospiza obsoleta
Birecik Gravel Pits : 5 – 16.07.09
186. Reed Bunting Emberiza schoenebaenus caspia
South Van Marshes : 3 – 14.07.09
187. Ortolan Bunting Emberiza hortulana
Soguksu : 1 – 10.07.09
Ishak Pasa : 1 – 11.07.09
Nemrut Dagi : 1 – 15.07.09
188. Grey-necked Bunting Emberiza buchanani cerrutii
Ishak Pasa : 2 – 11.07.09
Ishak Pasa : 1 – 14.07.09
189. Cinereous Bunting Emberiza cineracea semenowi
Nemrut Dagi : 1 – 15.07.09
Isikli : 1 – 17.07.09
190. Rock Bunting Emberiza cia ??
Ishak Pasa : 1 – 14.07.09
Cimbar Bogazi, Demirkazik : 3 – 18.07.09
191. Black-headed Bunting Emberiza melanocephala
Van Hills : 2 - 09.07.09
Serpmentas : 4 – 10.07.09
Soguksu : 3 – 10.07.09
Ishak Pasa : 1 – 11.07.09
Ishak Pasa Hinterland : 1 – 11.07.09
Gulicar : 1 – 12.07.09
Soguksu : 2 – 12.07.09
Soguksu : 3 – 13.07.09
Nemrut Dagi : 5 – 15.07.09
192. Corn Bunting Emberiza calandra calandra
Serpmentas : 1 – 10.07.09
Gulicar : 10 – 12.07.09
Peter Gluth (November 2009)
|
Andalusia 8th-11th
September 2006
In September 2006
we spent a long weekend in southern Spain with Brian Egan, Andrew
Holden, Keith Langdon, Tom Lowe and Vicky Turner. The primary aim of the
trip was to connect with Rüppell's Griffon Vulture, but other
specialities such as White-rumped Swift, Iberian Green Woodpecker and
Orphean Warbler, and the impressive raptor migration were also high on
the agenda. We also targeted Black-headed Weaver and Yellow-crowned
Bishop, species with healthy populations in Spain that are listed on Category C in neighbouring Portugal.
Literature
Trip reports by
Richard Bonser,
Roy Bottomley et al. and
Ian
Kinley et al. provided information on key sites and species and ‘Rüppell's
Vultures in Spain’ by Dick Forsman in Birding World vol. 18, no. 10
provided essential information on the main target species. Dave
Gosney’s ‘Finding Birds in Southern Spain’ was used on the trip
and is referenced throughout this report.
Kris De Rouck,
Hugues Dufourny and Graeme Joynt
all provided useful information.
Itinerary
Friday 8th:
flew Liverpool to Seville arriving 20:45.
Saturday 9th:
Sierra de la Plata (Bolonia), Ciguena Negra Watchpoint (La Cazalla,
Tarifa), La Janda, Jara Valley, El Algarrobo Watchpoint (Algeciras), Los
Lances (Tarifa Beach).
Sunday 10th:
El Algarrobo Watchpoint (Algeciras), Laguna de Medina, Lagunas de
Espera, Laguna de Mejorada.
Monday 11th:
Laguna de Mejorada, Brazo del Este, Trebujena Marismas, Algaida Pine
Forest, Bonanza Salinas, Algaida Salinas, Parroso River. Flew Seville to
Liverpool departing 21:10.
Site
directions
Sierra de la
Plata, Bolonia
White-rumped Swift
cave: travel west from Tarifa for 14km on the N340 then take the turn
signposted to Bolonia. After c7km turn right along main road just beyond
the Bellavista Restaurant main road and continue for c3km through
Bolonia. Park in layby 2km beyond ‘prohibido el paso zona militar’ sign
and view cave with railings around it.
Arroyo de
Alpariate: view by a stream that flows onto the beach in Bolonia, c150
metres before the entrance to the ancient Roman site of Baelo Claudia.
Ciguena Negra
Watchpoint, La Cazalla, Tarifa
Heading from west,
take track on left c2km after the final Tarifa turning on N340 up to a
small satellite station.
La Janda
Take track off
N340 midway between Tarifa and Vejer de la Frontera opposite easternmost
Zahara de los Atunes turning and after c1km follow track along south
side of canal.
Jara Valley
Take minor road
north off N340 near Rio Jara mouth just west of Tarifa.
El Algarrobo
Watchpoint, Algeciras
Driving west on the
main road from Algeciras turn right c1.5km after the last roundabout
onto a dirt track running off at 45 degrees from the road. Follow this
to the concrete watchpoint.
Los Lances, Tarifa
Beach
Take the
westernmost Tarifa turning off the N340 and follow road around sports
stadium to car park.
Laguna Medina
Located just east of C440,
10km south of Jerez. Most of the lagoons were dry during our visit, so
we saw very few species.
Lagunas de Espera
Take N382 to Arcos
de la Frontera off N-IV in Jerez de la Frontera then take C393 towards
Espera. Go through village then turn left to Las Cabezas de San Juan and
after 2km turn left towards Hondilla Lagoon.
Laguna de Mejorada
c2km north of Los
Palacios y Villafranca on N-IV turn right just before canal and follow
bank for c1km until road turns sharply left and crosses canal. Cross
bridge and park just beyond. Rufous-tailed Bush Robins occur in the
vineyards here, but we failed to locate any during our brief visit to
the site.
To locate Western
Olivaceous Warbler head back to the main road and turn left just beyond
the canal then take the first right along a dirt road to the lagoon. We
briefly saw two Western Olivaceous Warblers in the tamarisks that
surround the lake. Rufous-tailed Bush Robins also occur at this
location.
Brazo del Este
Gosney pages 14-15

Figure 1a: Google Earth image of Yellow-crowned Bishop and Black-headed
Weaver sites, Gosney page 15 site 3.

Figure 1b: Google Earth image of Yellow-crowned Bishop and Black-headed
Weaver sites, Gosney page 15 site 3.

Figure 2: Google Earth image of Black-headed Weaver nests at Brazo del
Este, just north-west of Gosney page 15 site 1.
Trebujena Marismas
Between Trebujena and
Lebrija on C441 between km 34 and km 36 (Gosney page 12 site 8).
Algaida Pine
Forest
Take the road through
Algaida into the pine forest (Gosney page 11 site 4).
Bonanza Salinas
Head north from
Bonanza then take track north northwest at sharp right bend in road (Gosney
page 11 site 2).
Algaida Wetlands
Gosney page 2.
Parroso River
View trees either side of viaduct on A-436 between Cantillana and El
Carbonal.

Figure 3: Google Earth image of site for Iberian Green
Woodpecker along Parroso River.
Key species
White-headed Duck
Seen at Algaida Wetlands.
Black-shouldered
Kite
Seen at La Janda.
Rüppell's Griffon
Vulture
Since 1992 small
numbers of this species have been regularly seen at a number of sites in
southernmost Spain (Forsman, 2005). With the European Union recently
implementing a ban on leaving cattle carcases in fields, locating
gatherings of Eurasian Griffon Vultures on the ground can be
challenging. Therefore, we thought that the raptor watchpoints at
Algeciras and
Tarifa probably offered the best opportunity of connecting with a
Rüppell's Griffon, whether it be migrating over the Straits of Gibraltar
or just moving between sites in the local area.
After nearly two full days of of searching
in the Tarifa area, we had brief views of a bird from the
El Algarrobo
Watchpoint near Algeciras. We failed to locate any gatherings of
vultures on the farmland and plains.
After returning home,
it transpired that better views could be gained at a more reliable site
- Sierra de Inmedio, a small mountain situated west of the track to the
Santuario de La Luz, itself starting where the "estacion ornitologica la
cigueña negra" is situated. Soon after our trip, two roosting birds were
observed with Eurasian Griffon Vultures on cliffs viewed from the 'Mirador
del Santuario' in the mornings. On of these birds, or possible
another was also seen in the La Janda agricultural plain at a carcass.
Audouin's Gull
Several on
Los Lances, Tarifa
Beach.
White-rumped Swift
We failed to
locate any White-rumped Swifts at the traditional cave at Sierra de la
Plata at dawn, but we connected with several birds nearby by Arroyo de
Alpariate soon after first light.
Iberian Green
Woodpecker
One seen well at
by the viaduct
at
the Parroso River.
Western Olivaceous
Warbler
Two seen briefly
at Laguna de Mejorada.
Western Orphean
Warbler
One seen in
Algaida Pine Forest
Azure-winged
Magpie
Several near
the viaduct at
the Parroso River.
Black-headed
Weaver
Several at Brazo del
Este.
Yellow-crowned
Bishop
At Brazo del Este.
Common Waxbill
Common at Laguna
de Mejorada.
Complete trip list
Common Teal Anas crecca crecca
Mallard Anas platyrhynchos platyrhynchos
Northern Pintail Anas acuta acuta
Garganey Anas querquedelua
Northern Shoveler Anas clypeata
Marbled Duck Marmaronetta angustirostris
Red-crested Pochard Netta rufina
Northern Pochard Aythya ferina
White-headed Duck Oxyura leucocephala
Scopoli’s Shearwater Calonectris diomedea
Balearic Shearwater Puffinus mauretanicus
Little Bittern Ixobrychus minutes minutes
Black-crowned Night Heron Nycticorax nycticorax nycticorax
Squacco Heron Ardeola ralloides ralloides
Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis ibis
Little Egret Egretta garzetta garzetta
Great White Egret Casmerodius albus albus
Grey Heron Ardea cinerea cinerea
Purple Heron Ardea purpurea purpurea
Black Stork Ciconia nigra
White Stork Ciconia ciconia ciconia
Glossy Ibis Plegadis falcinellus falcinellus
Eurasian Spoonbill Platalea leucorodia leucorodia
Greater Flamingo Phoenicopterus roseus
Little Grebe
Tachybaptus ruficollis ruficollis
Black-necked Grebe Podiceps nigricollis nigricollis
Eurasian Honey Buzzard Pernis apivorus
Black-shouldered Kite Elanus caeruleus
Black Kite Milvus migrans
Red Kite Milvus milvus
Egyptian Vulture Neophron percnopterus
Eurasian Griffon Vulture Gyps fulvus
Ruppell's Griffon Vulture Gyps rueppellii
Short-toed Eagle Circaetus gallicus
Marsh Harrier Circus aeruginosus
Montagu's Harrier Circus pygargus
Eurasian Sparrowhawk Accipiter nisus
Common Buzzard Buteo buteo
Booted Eagle Aquila pennata
Bonelli's Eagle Aquila fasciata
Osprey Pandion haliaetus
Lesser Kestrel Falco naumanni
Common Kestrel Falco tinnunculus
European Merlin Falco columbarius
Peregrine Falcon Falco peregrinus
Red-legged Partridge Alectoris rufa
Moorhen Gallinula chloropus
Western Purple Gallinule Porphyrio porphyrio
Coot Fulica atra
Black-winged Stilt Himantopus himantopus
Collared Pratincole Glareola pratincola
Little Ringed Plover Charadrius dubius
Ringed Plover Charadrius hiaticula
Kentish Plover Charadrius alexandrinus
Sanderling Calidris alba
Temminck's Stint Calidris temminckii
Dunlin Calidris alpina
Ruff Philomachus pugnax
Common Snipe Gallinago gallinago
Black-tailed Godwit Limosa limosa
Common Redshank Tringa totanus
Common Greenshank Tringa nebularia
Green Sandpiper Tringa ochropus
Wood Sandpiper Tringa glareola
Common Sandpiper Actitis hypoleucos
Arctic Skua Stercorarius parasiticus
Black-headed Gull Larus ridibundus
Slender-billed Gull Larus genei
Audouin's Gull Larus audouinii
Lesser Black-backed Gull Larus fuscus
Yellow-legged Gull Larus michahellis
Little Tern Sternula albifrons
Sandwich Tern Sterna sandvicensis
Whiskered Tern Chlidonias hybrida
Rock Dove Columba livia
Woodpigeon Columba palumbus palumbus
Collared Dove Streptopelia dacaocto
Turtle Dove Streptopelia turtur
Pallid Swift Apus pallidus
Alpine Swift Apus melba
White-rumped Swift Apus caffer
Common Kingfisher Alcedo atthis
European Bee-eater Merops apiaster
Hoopoe Upupa epops
Iberian Green Woodpecker Picus sharpei
Great Spotted Woodpecker Dendrocopos major
Crested Lark Galerida cristata
Sand Martin Riparia riparia
Crag Martin Ptyonoprogne rupestris
Barn Swallow Hirundo rustica
Red-rumped Swallow Cecropis daurica
House Martin Delichon urbicum
Yellow Wagtail Motacilla flava
Grey Wagtail Motacill cinerea
White Wagtail Motacill alba
Common Redstart Phoenicurus phoenicurus
Western Stonechat Saxicola torquata
Northern Wheatear Oenanthe oenanthe
Black-eared Wheatear Oenanthe hispanica
Blue Rock Thrush Monticola solitarius solitarius
Common Blackbird Turdus merula
Cetti's Warbler Cetti cetti
Fan-tailed Warbler Cisticola juncidis
Western Reed Warbler Acrocephalus scirpaceus
Great Reed Warbler Acrocephalus arundinaceus
Western Olivaceous Warbler Hippolais opacus
Western Orphean Warbler Sylvia hortensis
Western Bonelli's Warbler Phylloscopus bonelli
Willow Warbler Phylloscopus trochilus
Spotted Flycatcher Muscicapa striata
Pied Flycatcher Ficedula hypoleuca
Long-tailed Tit Aegithalos caudatus
Blue Tit Cyanistes caeruleus
Great Tit Parus major
Short-toed Treecreeper Certhia brachydactyla
Woodchat Shrike Lanius senator
Azure-winged Magpie Cyanopica cyanus
Western Jackdaw Corvus monedula
Spotless Starling Sturnus unicolor
House Sparrow Passer domesticus
Eurasian Tree Sparrow Passer montanus
Black-headed Weaver Ploceus melanocephalus
Yellow-crowned Bishop Euplectes afer
Common Waxbill Estrilda astrild
Chaffinch Fringilla coelebs
European Serin Serinus serinus
Greenfinch Chloris chloris
Goldfinch Carduelis carduelis
Linnet Carduelis cannabina
Corn Bunting Emberiza calandra
Chris Batty and
Stuart Piner (March 2008)
|

adult Egyptian Vulture

Griffon Vulture


Short-toed Eagle

dark morph Montagu's Harrier

Booted Eagle

Audouin's Gull



White-rumped Swift

female Iberian Green Woodpecker

Orphean Warbler

male Black-headed Weaver

male Yellow-crowned Bishop
Photos by Brian Egan and
Chris Batty
|
|
Kuwait 3rd-9th April 2007
Participants:
Chris Batty,
Richard Bonser, Andy
Clifton, Andrew Holden
Introduction
Up until very recently it
was difficult to impossible for foreign nationals to visit
Kuwait in a
tourist capacity. The visa rules changed a couple of years ago and in
April 2006 a Danish and a Finnish birding group visited the country and
opened our eyes to the potential of such a trip. A chat with George
Gregory following his presentation at the 2006
OSME meeting further whetted our
appetite to visit the country.
This trip report covers the
observations and information gleaned during a birding trip to
Kuwait in April
2007. The main purpose of the trip was to find some difficult to see
species in the Western Palearctic as well as experience the birding that
the country has to offer.
Kuwait is the only
place in the Western Palearctic where Socotra Cormorant, Lesser Sand
Plover, Red-vented Bulbul and Bank Myna can be reliably found. Added to
this several other target species that Kuwait is good for (and that we
recorded) include Crab Plover, Red-wattled Lapwing, Crested Tern,
White-cheeked Tern, Bridled Tern, Dunn’s Lark, Black-crowned Finch Lark,
White-eared Bulbul, Grey Hypocolius and Basra Reed Warbler. Fortunately
our visit also coincided with the first breeding record for Kuwait of
Common Babbler and an over-wintering Long-tailed Shrike.
Reading & Website Information
Much of the information gleaned prior to travel was from Andreas
Hagerman’s excellent
trip report from April 2006
and The Birds of the State of Kuwait by George
Gregory (first published in 2005). We also used a trip report from a
Finnish team (Rami Lindroos, Ilkka Sahi and Keijo Wahlroos) who visited
the country at the same time as the Danish group.
A couple of threads on
Birdforum
(WP Rarities in
Kuwait
and Kuwait Bird News and Reports) have and hopefully will continue to
provide useful information. Particularly useful files that can be found
here include word documents containing the Kuwait Bird Reports for 2005
and 2006.
We were advised by George
Gregory prior to our trip not to purchase a map until we arrived at the
airport. This we did and we found the 1:500 000 Geo Projects/Arab World
Map Library ‘Kuwait’
map to be more than sufficient during our stay.
Acknowledgements
Without doubt this is the
most important section of the report as without the help of George
Gregory this trip would certainly not have been as productive as it was.
George went beyond what anybody would expect (and for other birding
teams in spring 2007) organising access to otherwise inaccessible areas,
taking us to birding sites and waiting countless hours at the airport to
meet us all.
Brian Foster was also
invaluable and also accompanied us in the field at times during our
stay. The help and decent company provided by other
Kuwait based
birders, Pekka Fagel and Mike Pope, was also very much appreciated.
Special mention as well to ‘the Norwegians’ Jarl Nystrom and Oivind
Syvertsen who joined us on most days and were excellent company in the
field and over evening meals. Sean Cole, Rob Thatcher, Don Sykes and
Alex Parker also visited the country at the same time as us and provided
decent company when we were in the field together.
And finally thanks to Tommy
Frandsen, Andreas Hagerman, Jens Søgaard Hansen and Martin Poulsen for
visiting the country in 2006 and to Andreas for writing the trip report
– the format of which I have pinched for this report!
Other
Information
Hotel
Like the Danes last year we
stayed at the Hussa House Hotel (tel: 2560331 – 2520349) in
Kuwait
City, located
behind The Continental. Due to the rather maze like structure of the
road systems we took a GPS reading of the hotel so that we could get
back to it each night! It seems that affordable accommodation is at a
premium in the country with most hotels being rather more luxurious than
the average birder needs. Therefore, at £16 per person per night, we
would recommend staying at the Hussa House.
Car Hire and Travel
We hired a 4x4 for the
duration of our stay. Many of the global hire car companies can be found
at
Kuwait airport.
Many of the sites require travelling off road and from our experience a
conventional car would not be appropriate. Travel is very easy
throughout the country with good roads. Traffic can be heavy in rush
hour in
Kuwait
City with the
locals driving rather fast and close, but with a little time there is
nothing different from travelling around any other major city. As
Kuwait is an oil
rich state petrol prices were extremely cheap – a few quid to fill up a
gas-guzzling 4x4.
Eating/Drinking
The country is extremely
westernized and therefore has what you’d expect in terms of McDonalds,
Pizza Huts etc. Due to convenience we ate every night at a couple of
restaurants in the vicinity of where we were staying. Food was
reasonably priced, paying less than what you would in the
UK. Supermarkets
adjacent to petrol stations were well stocked and this is what we used
for food during the day. Do note however that alcohol is, theoretically,
illegal in
Kuwait.
Hunting
The shooting of birds is
evidently a popular pastime in
Kuwait,
particularly amongst young men. Having not experienced anything like
this on our travels previously, it was rather disturbing. Although we of
course could not ignore this as it was prevalent at a couple of sites we
visited (particularly Al Abraq), it is something to bear in mind before
you decide to go to
Kuwait if you
think it could completely ruin your trip. Casualties that we witnessed
ranged from a Caspian Tern and calidrids to Sparrowhawks and Bee-eaters.
It was, all told, pretty grim stuff.
Itinerary
An overview of our
day-to-day itinerary is as follows. Note that although we were birding
pretty much dawn til dusk, the small size of the country means that a
lot of sites can be covered/re-covered on a daily basis.
3rd April
Arrival Kuwait – Sulaibhikat – North Doha Nature Reserve – Doha Spit –
South Doha Nature Reserve – Jahra East – Jahra Farms – Sabah-al-Salem
4th April
Green
Island –
Sulaibhikat – Sabah-al-Ahmad (including Tulha) – Jahra East
5th April
Jahra East – Abdaly Farms – Subiyah –
Doha Spit – Jahra East –
Sulaibhikat
6th April
Pipeline Beach/Zour Port – Ras al Zour – Doha Spit – South Doha Nature
Reserve – Sabah-al-Salem
7th April
Green
Island – Sabah-al-Ahmad
(including Tulha) – Jahra East – Doha Spit – Jahra Farms – South Doha
Nature Reserve
8th April
Al Abraq Al Khabari – Sabah-al-Ahmad (including Tulha) –
Doha Spit – Kabd
9th April
Depart
Kuwait
SITE DETAILS
George Gregory’s ‘The Birds
of the State of Kuwait’ has a lot of information on specific sites and
this section aims to document our experiences of birding at several of
these sites. The map below illustrates an approximate layout of the
country and the sites that we visited during our visit. To give you an
example of scale, driving from
Kuwait
City to Abdaly
Farms should not take more than a couple of hours.

Abdaly Farms A
vast expanse of agriculture near the
Iraq border that
is good for migrants – we saw species such as Eastern Olivaceous and
Menetries’s Warblers, White-throated Robin and Rufous-tailed Scrub Robin
on our visit. The undoubted highlight was witnessing a family party of
Common Babblers – the first confirmed breeding of this species in
Kuwait. We located
this species and Red-wattled Lapwing at 29”57’51N, 47”48’38E whilst
another area (30”00’54N, 47”45’01E) visited produced little on our visit
but is meant to be one of the best sites to see Shikra in the winter.
Al-Abraq
Al-Khabari An
enclosed farm (29”22’08N, 46”57’41E) isolated in the western desert. It
is accessed off the main road at 29”25’58N, 47”00’37E. Just a couple of
days before our visit it had played host to
Kuwait’s first
Radde’s Accentor. Although we had a good time here, this is where we
experienced the most shooting and the devastating effects that come with
it. Accipters seemed to be the main target and this was
evident by a number of dead Sparrowhawks we found, but the most
distressing sight was that of a Bee-eater being shot out of the sky.
This is apparently the best place to see African Collared Dove in
Kuwait but we
failed to find this species here, although it was apparently seen whilst
we were on site. We witnessed a wave of migrants moving through that
included a couple of Barred and Menetries’s Warblers, an Icterine
Warbler, a couple of Semi-collared Flycatchers as well as good numbers
of Lesser Whitethroats and Redstarts.
Doha Spit and
North Doha Nature Reserve
The high tide roost at Doha Spit
(29”22’39N, 47”50’17E) and the adjacent North Doha Nature Reserve
(located just to the south near the sluice gates) are the best places in
Kuwait to look for
waders and terns. Much of the watching should be done from the car as
once you get out flushing the roosting birds is quite likely. We saw
half a dozen Crab Plovers here as well as large numbers of Lesser Sand
Plover and Terek Sandpiper. One or two Crested Terns could normally be
found with the Lesser Crested and Sandwich Tern flock whilst on one
visit a White-cheeked Tern was present. Additionally, like Jahra East,
this is probably a decent site to search for Saunders’s Tern as, with
patience, you can get decent views of the Little Terns. The
Kuwait
Bay waders can also
be viewed from behind the nearby Manchester Club.
Green
Island
A small promontory along the
seafront in
Kuwait
City. This is the
only place in the Western Palearctic to see Red-vented Bulbul and they
can be easily located along with the more numerous and White-cheeked
Bulbuls. Although we didn’t see too much here migrant wise this is
possibly one of the best places to search for Grey Hypocolius – the
Danish group had 24 together here in April 2006.
Jahra East
The outfall (29”21’22N,
47”43’44E) can be accessed from several tracks off the main road. The
adjacent reedy area adjacent to the outfall is probably the best site in
Kuwait to search
for Basra Reed Warbler – we located one bird here after a fair bit of
searching and other teams in 2007 seemed also to have success in finding
this species here. We also observed a couple of Little Crakes and a
Moustached Warbler in the channel here. The whole area was full of
Red-throated Pipits and flava wagtails as well.
If you walk/drive west from
the outfall there is a good vantage point to look out into
Kuwait
Bay – this was a
site recommended to us to search for Saunders’s Tern though, despite
scrutiny of Little Terns, we were unsuccessful. During our visits we did
see Black-winged Pratincole, Great Black-headed Gull and Isabelline
Shrike here along with lots of terns and waders.
Jahra Farms
An area of small
agricultural farms in Jahra town. The main area (29”21’04N, 47”40’27E)
can be accessed from the mosque car park on the opposite side of the
road to Burger King. This is currently the only place where Bank Myna is
found in the Western Palearctic – they were nesting in the well near the
road at 29”20’54N, 47”40’25E during our visit. We also saw
White-throated Kingfisher here as well as several migrants including
Semi-collared Flycatcher and Eastern Imperial Eagle.
Kabd
An agricultural farm where
special access is needed to visit. Rather amusingly on our visit, we all
had to dress up in rather fetching blue uniforms and wear masks to
prevent the spread of avian flu! It is, however, probably the best site
in
Kuwait for
Egyptian Nightjar but on our visit the windy conditions conspired
against us. Pale Rock Sparrow and a handful of Isabelline Shrikes were
the highlights of our visit.
Pipeline
Beach/Zour Port In 2006
this area seemed to be the Danes favourite site but it seems that on our
visit migration was not quite as good and access more restricted. The
hole in the fence that the Danes mention in their trip report is no
longer and you are unable to access the beach (where they saw Socotra
Cormorant and Egyptian Nightjar amongst other species) from the road.
Our highlights in this area of sparse bushes and semi-desert included a
male Turkestan Shrike and a Steppe Grey Shrike.
Ras al Zour
A private army/oil base on
the southern Kuwait coast with extremely difficult access – to put it
into perspective this was a site that some of the resident Kuwait
birders had not visited previously due to access issues. A sandy islet
just offshore provided us with decent views of the target species –
Socotra Cormorant – as well as good numbers of White-cheeked and Lesser
Crested Terns. A single Crested Tern was also seen and at least a dozen
Bridled Terns were present offshore. Birding around the base and the
adjacent golf course produced several migrants including Pied Wheatear,
Isabelline Shrike and several Lesser Kestrels.
Sabah-al-Ahmad
Nature Reserve (including Tulha Oasis)
A large area of steppe grassland,
stony desert and rocky ravines located to the north-west of
Kuwait
City on the road to
Iraq. The
highlight of our visit were at least 6 Dunn’s Larks (including 2
juveniles) and a male Black-crowned Finch Lark attending a nest. Other
species we found here included Bimaculated Lark, Hoopoe Lark, Steppe
Grey Shrike and Lesser Kestrel. Though we were probably a bit too late,
small numbers of Red-tailed Wheatear (chrysopygia) winter
in the rocky ravines here (particularly that at 29”31’24N, 47”47’43E).
The reserve contains Tulha -
an area of bushes that surround a small pool (29”35’07N, 47”47’01E).
This site, the only area of greenery in an otherwise barren landscape,
is extremely attractive to migrants. A pair of Grey Hypocolius were
present on one visit, small numbers of Pale Rock Sparrow were seen and
at least one European Scops Owl was found roosting on each of our
visits. Other species we noted here included Eastern Orphean Warbler,
Semi-collared Flycatcher and Steppe Grey Shrike as well as lots of
common migrants such as Hoopoe, Wryneck, Redstart, Rufous-tailed Scrub
Robin and White-throated Robin. Waders such as Wood Sandpiper and
Black-winged Stilt were found on the small pond. As this is a gated
nature reserve, the lack of shooters during our visits made the site
even more enjoyable.
Sabah-al-Salem
We visited this site, on
the southern outskirts of
Kuwait
City, a couple of
times. There is a small area of bushes that attract migrants and in
recent times Egyptian Nightjar has been seen at dusk (though we failed
to find this species). A small reedy area on the opposite side of the
road is good for two introduced (though as yet not classified as
‘self-sustaining) species – Streaked and Black-headed Weaver.
South Doha Nature
Reserve A couple of small
pools fringed with reeds (29”19’37N, 47”47’33E) to the west of
Kuwait
City where
seistanicus Purple Swamphen can be found. We also located Basra Reed
Warbler and Clamorous Reed Warbler here. Note that this was the worst
place we found for mosquitoes in
Kuwait,
particularly in the evenings (this being the best time to see the
Swamphens as well!).
Subiyah
A small enclosed area of bushes
surrounding a farm at the north-eastern most point of
Kuwait
Bay (29”34’21N,
47”54’26E). We encountered hunters here who thankfully were not the best
shooters and a cage full of birds here included 3 Grey Hypocolius that
presumably had been caught locally. An Eversmann’s Redstart was present
here for a couple of days in late 2006 but our visit produced little in
the way of migrants; an Eastern Orphean Warbler the only bird of note.
Sulaibhikat
A small area of rough
ground and bushes on the shores of
Kuwait
Bay; located to the west of
Kuwait
City. An
over-wintering Long-tailed Shrike favoured the palms by the wall on the
southern side of the reserve during our stay whilst this area seemed to
be a decent migration spot. Namaqua Doves were seen on all of our visits
whilst other highlights included a female Grey Hypocolius, a couple of
Daurian Shrikes and a male semenowi Cinereous Bunting.
There is also a viewing platform where you can look out at the waders,
gulls, terns and flamingos in
Kuwait
Bay.
DAILY
SIGHTINGS
This section hopefully will
give you a feel of what species we recorded at each site during each
visit. One thing that was really enjoyable about our visit was you could
visit sites time and time again and see a different variety of species
on a day-to-day basis. This section is pretty much lifted from my
notebook and arranged in a decent species order. Though I have tried to
include all species, there may be occasions where commoner species have
been omitted from some sites.
Particularly noteworthy
species/observations are in bold and where the letter C is stated, this
species was common at that site.
3rd APRIL 2007
Arrival late evening/early morning to
Kuwait
International
Airport
Sulaibhikat Nature Reserve
Grey Heron 10+,
Greater Flamingo 400+, Kentish Plover 10+,
Little Stint c.80, Slender-billed Gull c.200,
Little Tern 1, Namaqua Dove 4,
Hoopoe 1, Bee-eater 7,
Swallow 10, Crested Lark C,
White Wagtail 1, Red-throated Pipit 3,
Redstart 1, Bluethroat 1,
Rufous-tailed Scrub Robin 1, Eastern Black-eared
Wheatear 1, Rock Thrush 1 (male),
Stonechat 2, Grey Hypocolius 1(female),
White-cheeked Bulbul C, Graceful Prinia 12,
Lesser Whitethroat 2, Long-tailed Shrike 1,
Common Myna 5, House Sparrow C,
Ortolan 1
North Doha Nature
Reserve
Cormorant 1,
Teal c.50, Pallid Harrier 1,
Ringed Plover 25+, Kentish Plover 30+,
Little Stint 50+, Dunlin 20+,
Curlew Sandpiper 50+, Curlew C,
Redshank 100+, Greenshank 50+,
Terek Sandpiper 150+, Turnstone
c.10, Slender-billed Gull 50+,
Caspian Tern 10+
Doha
Spit
Greater Flamingo 1,
Black Kite 1, Pallid Harrier 2,
Oystercatcher c.50, Crab Plover
3, Kentish Plover C,
Lesser Sand Plover 200+, Grey Plover 50+,
Sanderling C, Dunlin C,
Little Stint C, Ruff 3, Curlew
C, Whimbrel 2, Marsh Sandpiper
8, Terek Sandpiper 30+,
Common Sandpiper 2, Turnstone c.40,
Slender-billed Gull C, Heuglin’s Gull 4,
Caspian Tern 50+, Sandwich Tern 3,
Lesser Crested Tern c.75, Crested
Tern 1
South Doha Nature
Reserve
Little Bittern 1,
Little Egret 2, Purple Heron 9,
Steppe Eagle 1, Purple Swamphen heard,
Rufous-tailed Scrub Robin 1, Tree Pipit 2,
Chiffchaff C, House Sparrow C
Jahra East
Cormorant 4,
Squacco 8+, Western Reef Egret 1,
Purple Heron 2, Black-winged Stilt 2,
Black-winged Pratincole 28, Collared
Pratincole 1, Grey Plover c.10,
Ruff 4, Common Sandpiper 4,
Slender-billed Gull C, Black-headed Gull c.30,
Great Black-headed Gull 1(2cy),
Heuglin’s Gull 3, Caspian Tern 15+,
Little Tern 1, Sand Martin 2,
Red-throated Pipit C, Yellow Wagtail 100s,
Isabelline Shrike 1(phoenicuroides)
Jahra Farms
Little Bittern 1,
Ring-necked Parakeet 5, Wryneck 1,
Tree Pipit c.8, Redstart c.8,
Nightingale 1, Lesser Whitethroat 2,
Blackcap 5+, Chiffchaff C,
Semi-collared Flycatcher 2, White-cheeked
Bulbul 2, Bank Myna 8+, Common Myna 5
Sabah-al-Salem
Wryneck 1,
Grey Wagtail 1, Yellow Wagtail c.15,
Graceful Prinia c.5, Great Reed Warbler 1,
Chiffchaff C, Common Myna c.10,
(Streaked Weaver 2males), (Black-headed
Weaver 2males)
4th APRIL 2007
Green
Island
Lesser Black-backed Gull 1,
Slender-billed Gull 1, Wryneck 1,
Red-throated Pipit 1, Red-vented
Bulbul 4, White-cheeked Bulbul 20+,
Whitethroat 1, Lesser Whitethroat C,
Eastern Orphean Warbler 2, Blackcap c.5,
Chiffchaff 5+
Sulaibhikat Nature Reserve
Short-toed Eagle 1,
Namaqua Dove 2, Pallid Swift
30+, Bee-eater 7, Wryneck 2,
Swallow C, Crested Lark C,
White-cheeked Bulbul C, Pied Wheatear 1,
Redstart c.10, Rufous-tailed Scrub Robin 1,
Graceful Prinia C, Reed Warbler 2,
Grasshopper Warbler 1, Lesser Whitethroat C,
Woodchat 1, Isabelline Shrike
1(phoenicuroides), Cinereous Bunting 1(male,
semenowi)
Sabah-al-Ahmad (including Tulha Oasis)
Squacco 1,
Kestrel 4, Short-toed Eagle 1,
Pallid Harrier 2, Steppe Buzzard 1, Wood
Sandpiper 1, Common Sandpiper 3,
Scops Owl 2, Little Owl 1,
Collared Dove 10+, Roller 1,
Dunn’s Lark 2,
Black-crowned Finch Lark 1(male, attending nest),
Bar-tailed Lark 4, Hoopoe Lark c.5,
Bimaculated Lark 2, Lesser Short-toed Lark 1,
Short-toed Lark 15+, Swallow C,
Tawny Pipit 2, Red-throated Pipit 2,
Yellow Wagtail 4, Grey Wagtail 2,
Northern Wheatear 4, Eastern Orphean Warbler 1,
Lesser Whitethroat c.5, Blackcap 3,
Chiffchaff C, House Sparrow C,
Ortolan 2
Jahra East
Little Bittern 1,
Squacco 2, Purple Heron 1,
Glossy Ibis 17+, Marsh Harrier 2,
Little Crake 2(pair), Black-winged Stilt
c.15, Green Sandpiper 4, Common
Sandpiper C, Sand Martin c.5,
Red-rumped Swallow 1, Swallow C,
Red-throated Pipit c.15, Yellow Wagtail C,
Moustached Warbler 1, Great Reed Warbler 2,
Reed Warbler 1, Savi’s Warbler heard,
Isabelline Shrike 1(phoenicuroides)
5th APRIL 2007
Jahra East
Cormorant 2,
Little Crake 1(female), Common Sandpiper C,
Swallow C, Red-throated Pipit c.5,
Yellow Wagtail C, Basra Reed Warbler
1, Great Reed Warbler 8+, Reed Warbler 2,
Sedge Warbler 2, Savi’s Warbler heard
Roadside café south of Abdaly
Black Kite 1,
Bluethroat 2, White-throated Robin 1,
Chiffchaff c.5, Masked Shrike 1, House
Sparrow C
Abdaly Farms
Pallid Harrier 1,
Steppe Buzzard 1, Red-wattled Lapwing 3,
Roller 1, Red-throated Pipit
2, White-throated Robin 1,
Rufous-tailed Scrub Robin 2, Graceful Prinia
C, Menetries’s Warbler 1, Eastern Olivaceous Warbler
1, Lesser Whitethroat 1, Common Babbler 4(2 adults
and 2 juveniles), Common Myna c.5
Subiyah
Sparrowhawk 1,
Cuckoo 1, Red-throated Pipit 1, Redstart 1,
Song Thrush 1, Eastern Orphean Warbler 1,
Lesser Whitethroat 2, Chiffchaff c.4,
House Sparrow C
Doha
Spit/Manchester Club
Grey Heron 25+,
Greater Flamingo 2, Shoveler 6,
Black Kite 1, Osprey 1,
Crab Plover 1, Ringed Plover 50+,
Kentish Plover 20, Curlew Sandpiper 1,
Dunlin C, Grey Plover c.5,
Ruff 4, Bar-tailed Godwit 1,
Curlew C, Marsh Sandpiper 2,
Terek Sandpiper c.150, Common
Sandpiper 5, Turnstone 10,
Heuglin’s Gull 1, Slender-billed Gull 200+,
Caspian Tern 50, Gull-billed Tern c.20,
Sandwich Tern 4
Jahra East
Purple Heron 2,
Glossy Ibis 19, Greater Flamingo c.20,
Montagu’s Harrier 1, Black-winged Stilt c.10,
Grey Plover 10, Little Stint C,
Sanderling C, Bar-tailed Godwit 4,
Caspian Tern 20+, Slender-billed Gull C,
Black-headed Gull C, Gull-billed Tern 5,
Little Tern 14, Swallow C,
Yellow Wagtail c.50, White Wagtail c.5
Sulaibhikat Nature Reserve
Namaqua Dove 2,
(Monk Parakeet 1), Bee-eater 30+,
Swallow C, Yellow Wagtail C,
Tree Pipit c.10, Red-throated Pipit 2,
White-cheeked Bulbul C, Redstart 2,
White-throated Robin 1, Rufous-tailed Scrub
Robin 2, Graceful Prinia C,
Willow Warbler 1, Chiffchaff C,
Isabelline Shrike 2(isabellinus),
Woodchat 1
6th APRIL 2007
Pipeline Beach/Zour Port
Pallid Harrier 1,
Bee-eater 1, Redstart c.6,
Rufous-tailed Scrub Robin 1, Eastern
Olivaceous Warbler 1, Lesser Whitethroat 4,
Whitethroat 1, Blackcap 3,
Chiffchaff c.15, Southern Grey
Shrike 1(pallidirostris), Isabelline
Shrike 1(phoenicuroides), Woodchat 1
Ras al Zour
Cormorant 2,
Socotra Cormorant 5+, Lesser
Kestrel c.5, Marsh Harrier 1,
Avocet 1, Sanderling c.25,
Curlew 2, Slender-billed Gull c.80,
Caspian Gull 1, Bridled Tern
c.12, White-cheeked Tern 70+,
Sandwich Tern c.5, Gull-billed Tern 3,
Lesser Crested Tern c.100, Crested
Tern 1, Caspian Tern c.10,
Little Tern 10+, Hoopoe 1, Crested Lark C,
House Martin 2, Swallow C,
Tree Pipit 2, Yellow Wagtail 2,
Grey Wagtail 1, White-cheeked Bulbul C,
Redstart 4, White-throated Robin 1,
Rufous-tailed Scrub Robin 2, Pied Wheatear 1,
Northern Wheatear 1, Lesser Whitethroat 3,
Chiffchaff C, Isabelline Shrike
1 (phoenicuroides), Ortolan 1
Doha
Spit
Western Reef Egret 1,
Crab Plover 6, Lesser
Sand Plover 300+, Kentish Plover C,
Ringed Plover c.40, Grey Plover 2,
Broad-billed Sandpiper c.5, Dunlin C,
Sanderling C, Curlew Sandpiper C,
Bar-tailed Godwit 6, Marsh Sandpiper c.10,
Terek Sandpiper 600+, Turnstone
C, Slender-billed Gull C,
Sandwich Tern 5+, Lesser Crested Tern 15+,
Crested Tern 1, Caspian Tern
c.20
South Doha Nature
Reserve
Moorhen 1, Green Sandpiper
1, Bluethroat 1, Reed Warbler 1,
Chiffchaff C, Woodchat 1
Sabah-al-Salem
Peregrine 1, Snipe 2,
pratincole sp. 1, Great Reed Warbler 1,
(Black-headed Weaver 1male)
7th APRIL 2007
Green
Island
Red-vented Bulbul
2, White-cheeked Bulbul C, Blackcap 2, Lesser
Whitethroat c.8
Sabah-al-Ahmad
Dunn's Lark
6, Hoopoe Lark 3, Bar-tailed Lark 1, Short-toed Lark c.15, Crested
Lark C, Swallow C, Tawny Pipit c.5, Yellow Wagtail 2, Northern
Wheatear 1, Southern Grey Shrike(aucheri) 1, Woodchat 1
Tulha Oasis (within Sabah-al-Ahmad)
Black Kite 1,
Pallid Harrier 1, Black-winged Stilt 2,
Wood Sandpiper, Namaqua Dove 1,
Cuckoo 2, Bee-eater c.5,
Hoopoe 1, Wryneck 1,
Grey Hypocolius 2(pair), Rufous-tailed Scrub Robin c.4,
White-throated Robin 6+, Redstart c.10,
Rock Thrush 1, Lesser Whitethroat C,
Blackcap C, Icterine Warbler 2,
Chiffchaff C, Semi-collared Flycatcher 1,
Southern Grey Shrike 1(pallidirostris),
Woodchat 1, Pale Rock Sparrow
c.12, Spanish Sparrow C, Ortolan
20+
Jahra East
Western Reef Egret 1,
Little Egret 10, Black Kite 1,
Osprey 1, Collared Pratincole 1,
Black-winged Stilt 10, Little Stint C,
Dunlin C, Ruff c.30,
Black-headed Gull C, Slender-billed Gull C,
Gull-billed Tern 3, Caspian Tern C,
Little Tern 4, Ortolan 1
Doha
Spit
Lesser Sand Plover
400+, Ringed Plover C, Kentish Plover C,
Broad-billed Sandpiper c.10, Dunlin C,
Sanderling C, Little Stint C,
Curlew Sandpiper C, Bar-tailed Godwit 2,
Curlew C, Marsh Sandpiper c.10,
Terek Sandpiper C, Turnstone C,
Slender-billed Gull C, Heuglin’s Gull 2,
White-cheeked Tern 1,
Gull-billed Tern 1, Sandwich Tern c.15,
Lesser Crested Tern c.20, Crested
Tern 1, Caspian Tern C,
Little Tern 4
Jahra Farms
Eastern Imperial
Eagle 1(2cy), Laughing Dove C,
White-throated Kingfisher 1, Cuckoo 2,
Tree Pipit 3, Redstart 2,
Nightingale 1, Chiffchaff C,
Semi-collared Flycatcher 1, Common Myna C,
Bank Myna 2+, Ortolan 1
South Doha Nature
Reserve
Little Bittern 1,
Night Heron 1, Purple Swamphen
2(seistanicus), Moorhen 2, Reed
Warbler C, Basra Reed Warbler 1,
Clamorous Reed Warbler 1, Great
Reed Warbler 2, Sedge Warbler 1,
Chiffchaff C
8th APRIL 2007
Al-Abraq Al-Khabari
Cattle Egret 1,
Squacco 2, Pallid Harrier 2,
Sparrowhawk 2, Turtle Dove 2,
Collared Dove 2, Cuckoo 1,
Bee-eater 1, Red-throated Pipit 5+,
Yellow Wagtail c.10, White-throated Robin 2,
Rufous-tailed Scrub Robin 1, Pied Wheatear 1,
Redstart 5, Barred Warbler 2,
Whitethroat 1, Lesser Whitethroat c.8,
Menetries’s Warbler 2, Icterine Warbler 1,
Chiffchaff C, Willow Warbler 2,
Semi-collared Flycatcher 2, Woodchat 1
Sabah-al-Ahmad (including
Tulha Oasis)
Lesser Kestrel 25+,
Montagu’s Harrier 1, Common Sandpiper 1,
Wood Sandpiper 1, Scops Owl 1,
Little Owl 1, Crag Martin 1, Swallow C,
Tawny Pipit c.5, Pied Wheatear 2,
Rufous-tailed Scrub Robin 1, Redstart 4,
Southern Grey Shrike 1(pallidirostris),
Ortolan c.5
Doha
Spit
Western Reef Egret 1,
Oystercatcher 12, Lesser Sand Plover
300+, Dunlin C, Sanderling C,
Curlew Sandpiper C, Whimbrel 1,
Bar-tailed Godwit 2, Slender-billed Gull C,
Great Black-headed Gull 1(2cy),
Heuglin’s Gull 4, Sandwich Tern 15+,
Lesser Crested Tern c.25, Crested
Tern 2, Caspian Tern c.50,
Little Tern 5
Kabd
Hobby 1,
Lesser Kestrel 2, Sparrowhawk 1,
Booted Eagle 1, Namaqua Dove 1,
Collared Dove 3, Bee-eater c.10,
Cuckoo 1, Short-toed Lark 5,
Rufous-tailed Scrub Robin 1, Rock Thrush 1,
Eastern Olivaceous Warbler 1,
Isabelline Shrike 5 (3 phoenicuroides, 1 isabellinus
and 1 ‘karelini’), Pale Rock Sparrow c.10, Ortolan 2
9th APRIL 2007
Departure from
Kuwait
International
Airport early
morning
SPECIES LIST
(156 Species recorded)
Common Teal
Anas crecca
Only seen in
Kuwait
Bay with highest
count c.50 at North Doha Nature Reserve 3rd April
Northern
Shoveler Anas clypeata
6
Doha Spit near the
Manchester Club 5th April
Great
Cormorant Phalacrocorax carbo
Up to 4 noted in
Kuwait
Bay on several
occasions and 2 seen with the next species at Ras al Zour 6th
April
Socotra Cormorant
Phalacrocorax nigrogularis
In the Western Palearctic
this species is restricted to the southern
Kuwait coast. 5+
were noted on a sandy islet off Ras al Zour 6th April
Little
Bittern Ixobrychus minutus
Singles at South Doha Nature
Reserve 3rd and 7th April, a confiding male at
Jahra Farms 3rd April and 1 Jahra East 4th April
Black-crowned
Night Heron Nycticorax nycticorax
1 over South Doha Nature
Reserve at dusk 7th April
Squacco Heron
Ardeola ralloides
Seen in decent numbers at
Jahra East on most visits and 1 at Tulha 4th April
Cattle Egret
Bubulcus ibis
1 Al Abraq 8th
April
Western Reef
Egret Egretta gularis
Singles noted at Doha Spit
and Jahra East on several dates
Little Egret
Egretta garzetta
Small numbers at sites in
Kuwait
Bay such as Jahra
East and Doha Spit
Grey Heron
Ardea cinerea
Commonly seen in
Kuwait
Bay at sites such
as Jahra East and Sulaibhikat
Purple Heron
Ardea purpurea
9 South Doha Nature Reserve
3rd April and ones and twos at Jahra East on several dates
Glossy Ibis
Plegadis falcinellus
17 Jahra East 4th
April and 19 there the following day
Greater
Flamingo Phoenicopterus roseus
Common in
Kuwait
Bay with upwards of
400 seen from Sulaibhikat 3rd April
Black Kite
Milvus migrans lineatus
A handful seen during the
trip; singles at Jahra East, Abdaly, Doha Spit (on two occasions) and
Tulha. Individuals were of the eastern form lineatus or
‘Black-eared Kite’
Short-toed
Eagle Circaetus gallicus
Singles at Sulaibhikat and
Sabah-al-Ahmad 4th April
Marsh Harrier
Circus aeruginosus
2 over the reedbed at Jahra
East 4th April and a migrant over Ras al Zour 6th
April
Pallid
Harrier Circus macrourus
Small numbers seen each day;
the steppe areas at Sabah-al-Ahmad being particularly productive and
migrants seen at sites such as Doha Spit and Pipeline Beach/Zour Port
Montagu’s
Harrier Circus pygargus
Singles at Jahra East 5th
April and
Sabah Al-Ahmad 8th April
Eurasian
Sparrowhawk Accipter nisus
1 Subiyah 5th
April, 2 Al Abraq and 1 Kabd 8th April. Additionally 2 shot
birds were unfortunately found at Al Abraq 8th April
Common
Buzzard Buteo buteo vulpinus
1 Tulha 4th April
and 1 Abdaly Farms 5th April
Steppe Eagle
Aquila nipalensis
1 over
South Doha Nature Reserve 3rd
April
Eastern
Imperial Eagle
Aquila heliaca
1 2nd calendar
year bird over the Burger King car park at Jahra 7th April
Booted Eagle
Hieraaetus pennatus
1 dark morph Kabd 8th
April
Osprey
Pandion haliaetus
1
Doha Spit 5th
April and 1 Jahra East 7th April
Lesser
Kestrel Falco naumanni
Small numbers seen actively
migrating over Ras al Zour 6th April, 25+ grounded birds
during inclement weather at Sabah Al-Ahmad 7th April and 2
Kabd 8th April
Common
Kestrel Falco tinnunculus
Seen in small numbers at
most sites throughout our visit
Hobby Falco
subbuteo
1+ at Kabd Agricultural Farm
8th April
Peregrine
Falco peregrinus
1 over the
Kuwait
City skyline at
Sabah-al-Salem 6th April
Little Crake
Porzana parva
A male and female Jahra East
4th April with a female there 5th April
Moorhen
Gallinula chloropus
Only seen at South Doha
Nature Reserve and Jahra East
Purple
Swamphen Porphyrio porphyrio seistanicus
2 at dusk at South Doha
Nature Reserve 7th April
Oystercatcher
Haematopus ostralegus
Peak of c.50 Doha Spit 3rd
April, otherwise noted in small numbers in
Kuwait
Bay
Black-winged
Stilt Himantopus himantopus
Up to 15 Jahra East and 2 on
the small pool at Tulha 7th April
Avocet
Recurvirostra avosetta
1 on the sandy island off
Ras al Zour 6th April
Crab Plover
Dromas ardeola
We only saw this species at
Doha Spit as we did not have the chance to visit
Bubiyan
Island where
spectacular numbers breed. Records from Doha Spit included 3 on 3rd
April, 1 on 5th April and 6 on 6th April.
Collared
Pratincole Glareola pratincola
1 at Jahra East 3rd
April (in a flock with the following species) and a single again at
Jahra East 7th April with an unidentified pratincole seen at
dusk at Sabah-al-Salem 6th April
Black-winged
Pratincole Glareola nordmanni
An impressive flock of 28
flew over Jahra East, and settled briefly, on 3rd April
Ringed Plover
Charadrius hiaticula
Common in
Kuwait
Bay, particularly
at Doha Spit high tide roost
Kentish
Plover Charadrius alexandrinus
Common to very common in
Kuwait
Bay; observed in
good numbers at Sulaibhikat, Doha Spit and North Doha Nature Reserve
Lesser Sand
Plover Charadrius mongolus
Kuwait is the
easiest place to see this species in the Western Palearctic. It was
commonly observed in
Kuwait
Bay; the best site
being the high tide roost at Doha Spit. 400+ were present here 6th
– 7th April
Grey Plover
Pluvialis squatarola
Regular in
Kuwait
Bay; a peak of 50+
Doha Spit 3rd April
Red-wattled
Lapwing Hoplopterus indicus
3 Abdaly Farms 5th
April
Sanderling
Calidris alba
Common in
Kuwait
Bay; also c.25 seen
at Ras al Zour 6th April
Little Stint
Calidris minuta
Common in
Kuwait
Bay with largest
numbers at Doha Spit high tide roost
Curlew
Sandpiper Calidris ferruginea
Common in
Kuwait
Bay with 100s
present at Doha Spit high tide roost
Dunlin
Calidris alpina
Common in
Kuwait
Bay, particularly
at Doha Spit high tide roost
Broad-billed
Sandpiper Limicola falcinellus
Small numbers noted in the
high tide roost at Doha Spit with c.5 6th April and c.10 7th
April
Ruff
Philomachus pugnax
Seen generally in small
numbers at Jahra East and Doha Spit; peak of c.30 Jahra East 7th
April
Common Snipe
Gallinago gallinago
2 Sabah-al-Salem 6th
April
Bar-tailed
Godwit Limosa lapponica
Seen at Doha Spit on all
visits; a peak of 6 6th April
Whimbrel
Numenius phaeopus
2 at Doha Spit 3rd
April and 1 there 8th April
Curlew
Numenius arquata
Common in
Kuwait
Bay at sites such
as Doha Spit, Sulaibhikat and Jahra East
Redshank
Tringa totanus
Peak of 100+ in
Kuwait
Bay at North Doha
Nature Reserve at high tide 3rd April
Marsh
Sandpiper Tringa stagnatilis
Seen at Doha Spit on most
visits with c.10 there on 6th – 7th April being
the highest counts
Greenshank
Tringa nebularia
50+ in the high tide roost
at North Doha Nature Reserve 3rd April
Green
Sandpiper Tringa ochropus
4 Jahra East 4th
April and 1
South Doha Nature Reserve 6th
April
Wood
Sandpiper Tringa glareola
Presumably the same
individual present on the small pool at Tulha on 4th, 7th
and 8th April
Terek
Sandpiper Xenus cinereus
Surprisingly abundant in
Kuwait
Bay; largest count
being 600+ during high tide at Doha Spit 6th April
Common
Sandpiper Actitis hypoleucos
Commonly seen at Jahra East
and Doha Spit with 3 on the pool at Tulha 4th April and 1
there 8th April
Turnstone
Arenaria interpres
Good numbers seen on each
visit to Doha Spit
Great
Black-headed Gull Larus ichthyaetus
A 2nd calendar
year bird at Jahra East 3rd April and a 2nd
calendar year bird at Doha Spit 8th April
Black-headed
Gull Larus ridibundus
Commonly seen in
Kuwait
Bay, particularly
at Jahra East, though less numerous than the next species
Slender-billed Gull Larus genei
Common to abundant in
Kuwait
Bay with sometimes
hundreds seen at sites such as Jahra East, Sulaibhikat and Doha Spit
Lesser
Black-backed Gull Larus fuscus fuscus
1 Green
Island 4th April
Heuglin’s
Gull Larus (fuscus) heuglini
Up to 4 birds presumably of
this (sub)species seen in
Kuwait
Bay at sites such
as Doha Spit and Jahra East
Caspian Gull
Larus cachinnans
An adult on the sandy islet
off Ras al Zour 6th April
Gull-billed
Tern Gelochelidon nilotica
Small numbers in
Kuwait
Bay throughout our
stay; peak of c.20 Doha Spit 5th April
Caspian Tern
Sterna caspia
Common in
Kuwait
Bay with largest
numbers noted at Jahra East and Doha Spit; unfortunately we witnessed
one being shot by hunters at Jahra East
Crested Tern
Sterna bergii
1
Doha Spit 3rd
April, 1 Ras al Zour 6th April, 1 Doha Spit 6th
April, 1 Doha Spit 7th April and 2 there on 8th
April
Lesser
Crested Tern Sterna benghalensis
Up to 20 seen at Doha Spit
on most days and c.100 at Ras al Zour 6th April
Sandwich Tern
Sterna sandvicensis
Regularly seen in
Kuwait
Bay at Doha Spit
and Jahra East; also c.5 at Ras al Zour 6th April
White-cheeked
Tern Sterna repressa
70+ roosted on the sandy
island off Ras al Zour 6th April and 1 showed well in the
high tide roost at Doha Spit 7th April
Bridled Tern
Sterna anaethetus
At least a dozen were
distantly from Ras al Zour 6th April
Little Tern
Sterna albifrons
Seen at Sulaibhikat, Jahra
East, Doha Spit and Ras al Zour in small numbers, peaking at 14 Jahra
East 5th April. Despite careful scrutiny and decent views of
most birds we failed to find any suitable Saunders’s Tern candidates.
Collared Dove
Streptopelia decaocto
Seen at several sites during
the week; peak being 10+ Sabah-al-Ahmad 4th April
Turtle Dove
Streptopelia turtur
2 Al Abraq 8th
April
Laughing Dove
Streptopelia senegalensis
Common throughout; seen in
good numbers at most sites
Namaqua Dove
Oena capensis
Up to 4 present at
Sulaibhikat with singles at Tulha on 7th April and Kabd 8th
April
Ring-necked
Parakeet Psittacula krameri
5 Jahra Farms 3rd
April
Cuckoo
Cuculus canorus
Ones and twos noted at
several sites during the trip such as Al Abraq, Subiyah, Jahra Farms and
Sulaibhikat
European
Scops Owl Otus scops
Up to 2 roosting in the
acacia scrub at Tulha – this species seen here on 4th, 7th
and 8th April
Little Owl
Athene noctua
1
Sabah Al-Ahmad 4th and 8th
April
Common Swift
Apus apus
Migrants noted in small
numbers at coastal sites such as Ras al Zour and Sulaibhikat
Pallid Swift
Apus pallidus
Commoner than the preceding
species with largest numbers noted over Sulaibhikat 4th April
White-throated Kingfisher Halcyon smyrnensis
1 at Jahra Farms 7th
April
European
Bee-eater Merops apiaster
Seen regularly at passage
sites such as Sulaibhikat, Tulha and Al Abraq. We unfortunately
witnessed one being shot out of the skies by hunters at Al Abraq that
had to be humanely destroyed.
Roller
Coracias garrulus
1
Sabah Al-Ahmad 4th April and
1 Abdaly Farms 5th April
Hoopoe Upupa
epops
1 Sulaibhikat 3rd
April, 1 Ras al Zour 6th April and 1 Tulha 7th
April
Wryneck Jynx
torquilla
At least half a dozen seen
during the trip at migrant sites such as Sulaibhikat,
Green
Island and Tulha
Black-crowned
Finch Lark Eremopterix nigriceps
A confiding male at Sabah
Al-Ahmad as it came to the nest with recently hatched chicks on 4th
April
Dunn’s Lark
Eremalauda dunni
2 adults Sabah-al-Ahmad 4th
April with 6 (including 2 juveniles) there 7th April
Bar-tailed
Lark Ammomanes cincturus
4 Sabah-al-Ahmad 4th
April and 1 there 7th April
Hoopoe Lark
Alaemon alaudipes
c.5 Sabah-al-Ahmad 4th
April and 3 there 7th April
Bimaculated
Lark Melanocorypha bimaculata
2
Sabah Al-Ahmad 4th April
Lesser
Short-toed Lark Calandrella rufescens
1
Sabah Al-Ahmad 4th April
Short-toed
Lark Calandrella brachydactyla
c.15 Sabah Al-Ahmad 4th
and 7th April with a handful there 8th April
Crested Lark
Galerida cristata
Common pretty much
throughout the country
Sand Martin
Riparia riparia
2 Jahra East 3rd
April and 5 there 4th April
Crag Martin
Ptyonoprogne rupestris
1
Sabah Al-Ahmad 8th April
Swallow Hirundo rustica
Common; seemingly large
numbers roost in the reeds at Jahra East
Red-rumped
Swallow Hirundo daurica
1 Jahra East 4th
April
House Martin
Delichon urbica
2 over Ras al Zour 6th
April
Tawny Pipit
Anthus campestris
Only seen at Sabah Al-Ahmad,
with c.5 seen on most visits
Tree Pipit
Anthus trivialis
Migrants seen in small
numbers at several sites during the week – highest count c.10
Sulaibhikat 5th April
Red-throated Pipit Anthus
cervinus
Seen at several sites
throughout the week with largest numbers at Jahra East 3rd
April where this species was common amongst a fall of flava
wagtails
Yellow
Wagtail Motacilla flava
A common species seen at
several sites, especially at Jahra East where 100s present especially on
3rd-4th April. The predominant subspecies being
beema and feldegg; with smaller numbers of
thunbergi and lutea noted
Grey Wagtail
Motacilla cinerea
1 at Sabah Al-Salem 3rd
April, 2 at Tulha 4th April and 1 Ras al Zour 6th
April
White Wagtail Motacilla alba
Small numbers seen; a peak
of c.5 at Jahra East 5th April
White-eared Bulbul
Pycnonotus leucogenys
A commonly seen species,
particularly within the confines of
Kuwait
City at sites such as
Sulaibhikat and
Green
Island; also
seemingly common near the Iraqi border at Abdaly Farms
Red-vented
Bulbul Pycnonotus cafer
This species seemingly only
occurs on
Green Island,
Kuwait
City and on our visits to this site we located it easily. About 4 were
seen on 4th April and a couple were seen on 7th
April
Grey
Hypocolius Hypocolius ampelinus
One of the main target
species – we noted a total of 3 birds during our trip, a smaller number
than we had expected and much less numerous than last year in the first
half of April (see the Andreas Hagerman’s
trip report from April 2006).
We saw a female at Sulaibhikat 3rd April and a pair at Tulha
oasis, Sabah-al-Ahmad 7th April. 3 caged birds of this
species at Subiyah 5th April had presumably been caught
locally
Rufous-tailed
Scrub Robin Cercotrichas galactotes
Seen in decent numbers
throughout our visit at migrant sites such as Tulha, Sulaibhikat, Al
Abraq and Pipeline Beach/Zour Port with 4 at Tulha on 7th
April being the maximum count
Nightingale Luscinia
megarhynchos
One seen at Jahra Farms 3rd
and 7th April; probably the same individual
Bluethroat
Luscinia svecica
1 Sulaibhikat 3rd
April, 2 near Abdaly 5th April and 1 South
Doha Nature Reserve 6th
April
White-throated Robin Irania
gutturalis
At least a dozen recorded
during our trip; a peak of 6+ at Tulha 7th April
Redstart
Phoenicurus phoenicurus
Common; regularly seen at
migrant sites throughout the country
Stonechat Saxicola torquatus
maurus
2 Sulaibhikat 3rd
April
Northern
Wheatear Oenanthe oenanthe
4 Sabah-al-Ahmad 4th
April, 1 Ras al Zour 6th April and 1 Sabah-al-Ahmad 7th
April
Pied Wheatear
Oenanthe pleschanka
1 Sulaibhikat 4th
April, 1 Ras al Zour 6th April, 1 Al Abraq 8th
April and 2 Sabah-al-Ahmad 8th April
Eastern
Black-eared Wheatear Oenanthe (hispanica) melanoleuca
1 male Sulaibhikat 3rd
April
Rock Thrush Monticola
saxatilis
3 birds seen – a male at
Sulaibhikat 3rd April, a female Tulha 7th April
and a male at Kabd on 8th April
Song Thrush Turdus
philomelos
One at Subiyah 5th
April
Graceful
Prinia Prinia gracilis
Common; seen at most sites
Grasshopper Warbler
Locustella naevia
1 at Sulaibhikat 4th
April and a dead bird found at Al Abraq 8th April
Savi’s Warbler Locustella
lusciniodes
Reeling birds heard at Jahra
East and South Doha Nature Reserve
Moustached
Warbler Acrocephalus melanopogon
1 in the reeds at Jahra East
outfall 4th April
Sedge Warbler Acrocephalus
schoenobaenus
Present in small numbers at
reedbed sites such as Jahra East and South Doha Nature Reserve
Reed Warbler
Acrocephalus scirpaceus
Noted in small numbers at
reedbed sites including Jahra East and South Doha Nature Reserve
Basra
Reed Warbler Acrocephalus griseldis
One of the main target
species during our trip with 1 Jahra East 5th April and 1
South
Doha Nature Reserve 7th
April. The best site to search for this species is undoubtedly the
reedbed by the outfall at Jahra East – mornings seem to be best as, from
our observations, this is when Acrocephalus activity peaked
Great Reed Warbler
Acrocephalus arundinaceus
Present and vocal in
reasonable numbers at reedbed sites such as Jahra East and South Doha
Nature Reserve
Clamorous
Reed Warbler Acrocephalus stentoreus
1 seen at South Doha Nature
Reserve 7th April
Eastern
Olivaceous Warbler Hippolais pallida
1 Abdaly Farms 5th
April, 1 Pipeline Beach/Zour Port 6th April and 1 Kabd 8th
April
Icterine
Warbler Hippolais icterina
2 at Tulha 7th
April and 1 at Al Abraq 8th April
Blackcap
Sylvia atricapilla
Seen in good numbers at most
migrant sites
Barred
Warbler Sylvia nisoria
2 at Al Abraq 8th
April
Lesser Whitethroat Sylvia
curruca
Seen on an almost daily
basis in relatively small numbers. Despite close scrutiny we were unable
to find any birds resembling the subspecies althaea (Hume’s
Lesser Whitethroat)
Eastern
Orphean Warbler Sylvia crassirostris
2 Green
Island 4th April, 1 Tulha 4th
April and 1 Subiyah 5th April
Whitethroat
Sylvia communis
Ones and twos seen at sites
such as Tulha, Pipeline beach and Al Abraq
Menetries’s
Warbler Sylvia mystacea
1 Abdaly Farms 5th
April and 2 Al Abraq 8th April
Chiffchaff
Phylloscopus collybita
Common; seen regularly at
migrant sites such as Tulha, Al Abraq and Sulaibhikat
Willow Warbler Phylloscopus
trochilus
Regularly noted at several
sites, though less numerous than the preceding species
Semi-collared Flycatcher
Ficedula semitorquata
Half a dozen encountered
during the trip – pair Jahra Farms 3rd April, female Tulha 7th
April, female Jahra Farms 7th April and a couple at Al Abraq
8th April
Common
Babbler Turdoides caudatus
2 adults and 2 juveniles at
Abdaly Farms on 5th April represented the first confirmed
breeding of this species in
Kuwait. The birds
were still a tight knit family group despite the young being fully
fledged
Isabelline Shrike Lanius
isabellinus
1 female
phoenicuroides Jahra East 3rd – 4th April, 1
female phoenicuroides Sulaibhikat 4th April, 2
(male and female) isabellinus Sulaibhikat 5th
April, 1 male phoenicuroides Zour Port 6th
April, 1 male phoenicuroides Ras al Zour 6th
April and 5 (3 phoenicuroides, 1 isabellinus
and 1 ‘karelini’) Kabd 8th
April
Long-tailed Shrike Lanius
schach
The wintering bird seen on 3rd
and 5th April at Sulaibhikat. It was relatively difficult to
locate on each visit (and on one visit we were unable to locate it) and
presumably spent a significant amount of time in trees on the other side
of the reserve wall. It was last recorded by other birders on 9th
April
Southern Grey Shrike Lanius
meridionalis
Individuals of the race
pallidirostris (Steppe Grey Shrike) noted at Zour
Port/Pipeline Beach 6th April, Tulha 7th April and
Sabah Al-Ahmad 8th April. A bird of the race aucheri
was noted at Sabah Al-Ahmad 7th April.
Woodchat
Shrike Lanius senator
Small numbers seen; 1 at
Sulaibhikat 4th – 5th April, 1 Pipeline Beach/Zour
Port 6th April, 1 Tulha 7th April and 1 Al Abraq 8th
April
Masked Shrike
Lanius nubicus
1 seen by the roadside to
the south of Abdaly Farms 5th April
Common Myna
Acridotheres tristis
A common species,
particularly within the confines of
Kuwait
City. Birds seen at
sites such as Jahra Farms and
Green
Island but also as
far north in the country as Abdaly Farms
Bank Myna Acridotheres
ginginianus
8+ at Jahra Farms 3rd
April our highest count; a further 2 were seen here on 7th
April. The birds nest communally in a well at this site and can be
located in the surrounding agricultural settlements
House Sparrow
Passer domesticus
Common; noted at most sites
throughout the country
Spanish
Sparrow Passer hispaniolensis
Common but localised; a
thriving colony seems to be present at Tulha
Pale Rock
Sparrow Petronia brachydactyla
1 showed well at Tulha 7th
April with a further dozen birds flying through this site on the same
day and c.10 at Kabd Agricultural Farm 8th April. Compared to
spring 2006, this species was considerably scarcer in 2007
Cinereous
Bunting Emberiza cineracea semenowi
One showed well at
Sulaibhikat 4th April
Ortolan
Bunting Emberiza hortulana
Regularly noted at migrant
sites; seen at Jahra East, Sulaibhikat, Kabd and Tulha with 20+ at Tulha
7th April being the highest count
Other species recorded in a
wild state, where recent escape probability is high or where
self-sustaining populations are unproven: -
Monk
Parakeet Myiopsitta monachus
1 Sulaibhikat 5th
April
Streaked Weaver Ploceus manyar
2 males Sabah-al-Salem 3rd
April
Black-headed Weaver Ploceus melanocephalus
2 males Sabah-al-Salem 3rd
April and 1 male there 6th April
Chris Batty &
Richard Bonser (2007)
|

Black Kite (form
lineatus)

Short-toed Eagle

male Pallid Harrier

Crab Plovers

Crested Tern

Lesser Crested Terns and Slender-billed
Gulls

male Namaqua Dove

Scops Owl


European Bee-eater

Dunn's Lark (form eremodites)

male Yellow Wagtail (form feldegg)

male Yellow Wagtail (form beema)


White-eared Bulbul

Red-vented Bulbul



Grey Hypocolius

Rufous-tailed Scrub Robin (form syriacus)

male White-throated Robin

Siberian Stonechat

Rock Thrush

Graceful Prinia


Common Babblers



Isabelline Shrikes (form
phoenicuroides)




Isabelline Shrikes (form
isabellinus)

male Long-tailed Shrike


Southern Grey Shrike (form
pallidirostris)

Woodchat Shrike

Bank Myna

Bank Myna nest site

male Spanish Sparrow

Ortolan Bunting
|
Cape Verde Islands 1st-15th March 2007
For those interested in Western Palearctic listing, a visit to the Cape
Verde Islands is essential. Over the last few years the archipelago has
become increasingly popular with tourists and with cheaper and more
regular flights to the islands imminent, the pressure of tourism on the
local environment and ecosystems could be severe. With this in mind,
Chris Bell and I decided to spend a very enjoyable and successful
fortnight on the islands before such pressures have an impact on the
islands' bird populations.
Several trip
reports and guides have extensively covered the logistics of birding the
Cape Verde Islands, so there seems little point in repeating all this
here (for useful references see below). This report is simply intended
to act as an update to existing reports.
Cape Verde Travel
organised our international and internal flights and accommodation for a
total cost of £1,077 (including £25 for a entry visa organised by Cape
Verde Travel prior to our trip). Direct flights are
now available from the UK - from Manchester and Gatwick, with
Thomsonfly and
Astraeus.
The Cape Verde
Islands are clearly gearing up for a significant increase in tourism;
plenty of money seems to have been spent on the road network, internal
flights and other amenities. The flight delays mentioned in previous
trip reports were not a problem during our stay.
The exchange rate
during our trip was 157 CV Escudos = £1.
The total cost of the trip came to
£1,606. This would have been significantly cheaper with a larger team of
birders.
We saw all of our
target species, except for (the seemingly very rare) Cape Verde
Peregrine.
Literature
The Birds of
the Cape Verde Islands by Cornelis J.Hazevoet (1995).
The Birds of the Atlantic Islands by Tony Clarke (2006).
Cape Verde - A Birder's Guide to the Cape Verde
Islands by Dave Sargeant.
Cape Verde Islands 24th February-7th March 2005
by
Chris
Batty.
Cape Verde Islands 21/02/2002 - 06/03/2002 by Colin Dodsworth
The Cape Verde Islands: tropical birding in the Western Palearctic
by Andreas Noeske and Setfan Pfützke
in
Birding World
Vol.7 No.4: 152-160
Birding the Cape Verde Islands by Arnoud B. van den Berg in
Birding World Vol.18 No.2: 80-81.
Cape Verde Islands
The Bradt Travel Guide.
Chris
Batty, Dr Mike Brooke, Tony Clarke, Paul Donald, Stewart Hinley, Andrew
Holden, Richard Klim and Tommy Frandsen provided useful information.
Itinerary
Thursday 1st March
flew Manchester to Sal arriving c2.45pm
birded around Sal airport
flew Sal to Santiago departing 7.15pm arriving 8.05pm
taxi to Hotel America (CV Escudos 1,200)
stayed at Hotel America (Praia)
Friday 2nd March
taxi from Hotel America to Atlantic Rent-a-Car (CV Escudos 200)
hired car for three days (CV Escudos 15,000 plus CV Escudos 2,340 for extra
kilometres (over 140/day allowance)
birded Praia, Liberão, Ribeira de Praia Formosa, São Jorges,
Boa Entrada, Tarrafal until dusk
stayed at Hotel Praia Maria (Praia)
Saturday 3rd March
birded Ribeira de Praia Formosa, Pedra Badejo, new reservoir, Praia
stayed at Hotel Praia Maria (Praia)
Saturday 4th March
birded Sao Lorenco dos Orgaos, new reservoir, São Jorges, Cidade Vehla
stayed at Hotel Praia Maria (Praia)
Sunday 5th March
taxi to airport (CV Escudos 500)
flew Santiago to São Nicolau departing 1.10pm arriving 2pm
taxi from airport to Tarrafal (CV Escudos 2,000)
taxi to Punta de Baril (CV Escudos 500)
seawatched from Punta de Baril
taxi to Tarrafal (CV Escudos 500)
stayed at Pension Alice (Tarrafal)
Monday 6th March
chartered fishing boat to Raso departing c8am arriving c10.50pm (organised
through Pension Alice)
birded Raso
picked up by charted fishing boat at c2.30pm and taken to Branco
birded Branco into night
camped on Branco
Tuesday 7th March
picked up from Branco by chartered fishing boat at c11am and arrived back at São Nicolau
at c3.30pm (total cost of chartered fishing boat 550 Euros)
stayed at Pension Alice (Tarrafal)
Wednesday 8th March
aluguer to Cachaco (CV Escudos 200)
birded Faja Valley
aluguer back to Tarrafal (CV Escudos 240)
birded Tarrafal
stayed at Pension Alice (Tarrafal)
Thursday 9th March
taxi to airport (CV Escudos 2,000)
flew São Nicolau to Sal departing 2.20pm arriving 3.05pm
flew Sal to Boa Vista departing 4.35pm arriving 5.05pm
taxi to Sal Rei (CV Escudos 700)
stayed at Pousada Boa Vista (Sal Rei)
Friday 10th March
hired 4x4 to Curral Vehlo organised through Rui at Melitour (located in Sal Rei
opposite Pousada Boa Vista) (CV Escudos 6,000)
birded Curral Vehlo then dropped at Rabil Lagoon
birded Rabil Lagoon
aluguer to Sal Rei (CV Escudos 200)
stayed at Pousada Boa Vista (Sal Rei)
Saturday 11th March
hired 4x4 to Bai de Gatas organised through Rui at Melitour
charted fishing boat to llhéu dos Pássaros
birded llhéu dos Pássaros into night
camped on llhéu dos Pássaros
Sunday 12th March
chartered fishing boat back to Bai de Gatas departing 7am
hired 4x4 back to Sal Rei organised through Rui at Melitour (total cost of llhéu
dos Pássaros trip 155 Euros)
aluguer to Rabil Lagoon (CV Escudos 200)
birded Rabil Lagoon
aluguer back to Sal Rei (CV Escudos 200)
stayed at Pousada Boa Vista (Sal Rei)
Monday 13th March
taxi to Rabil Lagoon (CV Escudos 400)
birded Rabil Lagoon
aluguer back to Sal Rei (CV Escudos 200)
taxi from Sal Rei to airport (CV Escudos 700)
flew Boa Vista to Sal departing 6.10pm arriving 6.30pm
taxi to Santa Maria (CV Escudos 1,000)
stayed at Hotel de Luz (Santa Maria)
Tuesday 14th March
taxi to Pedra de Lume (CV Escudos 1,500)
birded Pedra de Lume
taxi to Santa Maria (10 Euros)
birded Santa Maria
stayed at Hotel de Luz (Santa Maria)
Wednesday 15th March
taxi from Santa Maria to airport (10 Euros)
flew Sal to Manchester departing 3.35pm
New site on Santiago
A new reservoir is situated south of the road between Joa Teves and
Pedro Badego west of the Liberão turning. This site produced an excellent
selection of species on two consecutive days, including at least two Cape Verde
Purple Herons, a Squacco Heron (the sixth record for the Cape Verde Islands),
Cormorant (the first record since 1924), 6 Spoonbills, 2 Snipe, 2 Green
Sandpipers, Black-winged Stilt, breeding Moorhen (the first breeding record since
1969)
and Cape Verde Warbler. This waterbody will surely be host to many a Cape Verde
and Western Palearctic rarity in years to come.
Target birds found
Common Quail (form inopinata)
Santiago
One in Praia on rough ground behind Shell terminal.
Two in rubble above Cidade Vehla.
Helmeted Guineafowl
Santiago
c10 Ribeira de Praia Formosa at top of ridge c2km out of town after
junction before sharp righthand bend.
São Nicolau
c20 in Faja Valley along trail c2km north of Cachaco village (see
Sergeant p23).
Fea's Petrel
Raso
c6 from Tarrafal to Raso crossing.
Cape Verde Shearwater
Santiago
One off Cidade Vehla.
São Nicolau
c50 lingered distantly off Punta da Barril during evening seawatch.
Raso
Many from boat to and from Raso/Branco, giving exceptional views
close to boat.
Branco
Birds returned to colony from 7.10pm, just after dusk. Many where
heard calling and three were observed in nest.
Cape Verde Little Shearwater
Santiago
We searched on two consecutive nights in the valley running
southeast from São Domingos but failed to see or hear any shearwaters (see
Batty, 2005).
Branco
Birds began arriving at colony from 7.45pm. Appeared to be numerous, with
many heard singing and several seen in flight above scree slops during evening.
White-faced Storm-petrel (form eadesi)
Branco
Although a small pale seabird that flew along the peninsula at the
southeast side of the island at c11.30pm was most likely this species, there
were no confirmed sightings by midnight. We spoke to a seabird
researcher who was staying on São Nicolau, who suggested that the full moon may
have discouraged the petrels from returning to the colony.
llhéu dos Pássaros
The first birds returned to the colony just before 8pm and excellent
views were obtained both in flight and on the ground. Numbers were difficult to
estimate, but birds were almost constantly on view between 8pm-10.30pm. After
then the main period of activity appeared to be over, but singles were still
coming and going at 11pm. Keep to the rocky sides of the islet to avoid
destroying the burrows in the centre.
It is worth being aware of which island lhéu dos Pássaros
is before you set off (it is the closest island to the shore at Bai de Gatas).
The fishermen initially began heading to llhéu de Baluarte, which has been a problem on
previous trips to lhéu dos Pássaros.
Madeiran Storm-petrel
Branco
Many returned to the colony on the scree slopes by 9pm.
Red-billed Tropicbird (form mesonauta)
Santiago
20+ were around the cliffs east of the Shell terminal in Praia
during the evening.
Raso
A few seen from Tarrafal to Raso crossing and several seen around
the colony on Raso.
Boa Vista
c5 over llhéu de Curral
Velho.
Brown Booby (form leucogaster)
São Nicolau
Singles off Tarrafal and a few off Punta de Barril.
Raso
Many seen around colony.
Branco
A few seen offshore.
Boa Vista
Seen off llhéu dos Pássaros and at colony on llhéu de Curral
Velho.
Magnificent Frigatebird
Boa Vista
A female was observed over the east side of llhéu de Curral
Velho and
circled high between here and Curral Vehlo then drifted west.
Bourne's Heron
Santiago
Two juveniles were in the mahogany tree at Liberão. The birds
apparently fledged on 7th March, five days after we visited the site.
At least two were at the new reservoir on two consecutive days. This site may
well prove to be a regular stake out for this species in the future.
Cape Verde Buzzard
Santiago
Two were seen distantly over the northeastern slopes of Pico
do Antonia viewed from above the school west of São Jorges dos Orgãos.
Alexander's Kestrel
Common and widespread on Sal, Santiago and Boa Vista.
Neglected Kestrel
São Nicolau
Common and widespread.
Cream-coloured Courser (form exsul)
Boa Vista
Seen along route between Sal Rei and Curral Velho.
Cape Verde Barn Owl
Santiago
One was seen at dusk at the regular site south of Tarrafal over
farmland by the (former?) sewage works. From the Shell garage in Tarrafal head
south for c1km then take a right turn along the only obvious wide stone road and
park by the sewage works fence. It is best to access south from Tarrafal as
there are several confusing diversions as you enter the town from the south.
Another Barn Owl was heard but not seen in the valley running southeast from São Domingos from the layby on the south side of the road 700m west of the junction
north of Riberia Chiquerio.
Cape Verde Swift
Widepread on Santiago and São Nicolau.
Grey-headed Kingfisher (form acteon)
Santiago
Common and widespread in vegetated areas in the interior.
Black-crowned Finch Lark (form nigriceps)
Santiago
A male was on rubble above Cidade Vehla.
Boa Vista
Common and widespread.
Bar-tailed Desert Lark (form cinctura)
Boa Vista
Common and widespread.
Greater Hoopoe Lark (form boavistae)
Boa Vista
Widespread.
Raso Lark
Raso
c12 were seen within a short distance of the landing area.
Cape Verde Warbler
Santiago
Seen at Boa Entrada; west of São Jorges and the new reservoir.
Brown-necked Raven
Common and widespread on Santiago, São Nicolau, Raso and Boa
Vista.
Iago Sparrow
Common and widespread on Sal, Santiago, São Nicolau, Raso and
Boa Vista.
Common Waxbill
Santiago
Common and widespread.
Other species
Black Heron
Raso
One appeared to fly in off the sea on Raso viewed from the landing area, then
continued east along the coast. Excellent views were obtained in flight, but a
subsequent search along the coastline east of the landing area failed to
relocate the bird. This is the third record for the Western Palearctic and
second for the Cape Verde Islands following one on llhéu de Curral Velho, Boa
Vista from 6th February to 7th March 1985.
Western Reef Egret
Boa Vista
A dark morph was at Rabil Lagoon (there have been over 20 previous records).
All statuses above per Clarke, 2006 (apart from
for Squacco Heron).
Target birds missed
Cape Verde Peregrine
Given the vast areas of suitable habitat and the seemingly endless supply of
prey it seems bizarre that this is such a rare, difficult-to-find resident on
the islands.
Santiago
We failed to locate any at São Jorges, Sao Lorenco dos Orgaos, Formosa,
Cidade Vehla and Praia, despite many lengthy vigils.
São Nicolau
We failed to locate any at Tarrafal or around the Faja Valley.
Complete trip list
Common Quail Coturnix coturnix inopinata
Helmeted Guineafowl Numida meleagris
Fea's Petrel Pterodroma feae feae
Cape Verde Shearwater Calonectris edwardsii
Cape Verde Little Shearwater Puffinus boydi
White-faced Storm-petrel Pelagodroma marina eadesi
Madeiran Storm-petrel Oceanodroma castro
Red-billed Tropicbird Phaethon authereus mesonauta
Brown Booby Sula leucogaster leucogaster
Great Cormorant Phalacrocorax carbo lucidus
Magnificent Frigatebird Fregata magnificens
Squacco Heron Ardeola ralloides
Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis ibis
Black Heron Egretta ardesiaca
Western Reef Egret Egretta gularis
Little Egret Egretta garzetta garzetta
Grey Heron Ardea cinerea
Bourne's Heron Ardea bournei
Eurasian Spoonbill Platalea leucorodia
Cape Verde Buzzard Buteo bannermani
Osprey Pandion haliaetus
Alexander's Kestrel Falco alexandri
Neglected Kestrel Falco neglectus
Moorhen Gallinula chloropus
Black-winged Stilt Himantopus himantopus himantopus
Cream-colored Courser Cursorius cursor exsul
Common Ringed Plover Charadrius hiaticula
Kentish Plover Charadrius alexandrinus alexandrinus
Grey Plover Pluvialis squatarola
Sanderling Calidris alba
Little Stint Calidris minuta
Curlew Sandpiper Calidris ferruginea
Dunlin Calidris alpina
Common Snipe Gallinago gallinago
Bar-tailed Godwit Limosa lapponica
Whimbrel Numenius phaeopus phaeopus
Common Redshank Tringa totanus
Common Greenshank Tringa nebularia
Green Sandpiper Tringa ochropus
Common Sandpiper Actitis hypoleucos
Ruddy Turnstone Arenaria interpres
Rock Dove Columba livia
Cape Verde Barn Owl Tyto detorta
Cape Verde Swift Apus alexandri
Grey-headed Kingfisher Halcyon leucocephala acteon
Black-crowned Finch Lark Eremopterix nigriceps nigriceps
Bar-tailed Desert Lark Ammomanes cinctura cinctura
Greater Hoopoe Lark Alaemon alaudipes boavistae
Raso Lark Alauda razae
Barn Swallow Hirundo rustica
Cape Verde Warbler Acrocephalus brevipennis
Spectacled Warbler Sylvia conspicillata orbitalis
Blackcap Sylvia atricapilla gularis
Brown-necked Raven Corvus ruficollis ruficollis
Spanish Sparrow Passer hispaniolensis hispaniolensis
Iago Sparrow Passer iagoensis
Common Waxbill Estrilda astrild jagoensis
Stuart
Piner
April 2007
|
.jpg)
.jpg)
Cape Verde Shearwater
.jpg)
adult Red-billed Tropicbird (form mesonauta)
.jpg)
.jpg)
Brown Booby (form leucogaster)

Squacco Heron
.jpg)
.jpg)
juvenile Bourne's Heron
.jpg)
Alexander's Kestrel
.jpg)
Cape Verde Swift
.jpg)
Grey-headed Kingfisher (form acteon)
.jpg)
female Black-crowned Finch Lark (form nigriceps)

Bar-tailed Desert Lark (form cinctura)

.jpg)
Greater Hoopoe Lark (form boavistae)

.jpg)
Raso Lark
.jpg)
.jpg)
.jpg)
Cape Verde Warbler
.jpg)
male Spectacled Warbler (form orbitalis)

male Blackcap (form gularis)
.jpg)
male Spanish Sparrow

male Iago Sparrow
all images taken with a Sony Cyber-shot DSC-N1 or Sony
Cyber-shot DSC-W30 mounted to a Leica APO77 telescope with a
Leica Digiscoping Adapter and 20x or 30x wide angle eyepieces
|
southern France
and northern Spain 1st-10th August 2006
My previous trips to France and Spain had all been in
mid-winter, so I decided to organise a summer trip, primarily focusing on The
Pyrenees. Although August is by no means the best time of year to visit the
area, the trip offered an excellent opportunity to combine a holiday with my
girlfriend and the chance of connecting with some new Western Palearctic birds.
We flew
from
Blackpool
to Girona with Ryanair, at a
combined cost of £225, then hired a Seat Ibiza from
Solmar through
Carjet for c£161, including a tank of
diesel.
Literature
’A Birdwatching Guide to The Pyrenees’ by Jacquie Crozier
Birding World 18 (12) 517-526 – ‘Sacred Ibis: a new invasive species in Europe’
by Pierre Yésou and Philippe Clergeau
’Finding
Birds in North Spain’ by Dave Gosney
’Finding Birds in Southern France’ by Dave Gosney
’Where to watch birds in France’ by Philippe J. Dubois
’Where to watch birds in North & East Spain’ Michael Rebane
Trip reports by Martin Birch,
Richard
Bonser, Nick Bray and Viv Stratton, Phil
Bristow, Rhion Pritchard, Keith Shepherd and James Walsh also provided useful
information. Chris Batty, Peter Gluth,
Tom Lowe and Andrew Raine provided information on the area.
Itinerary
Tuesday
1st August:
Flew from Blackpool to Girona arriving at 11.10pm. Drove into France and slept
in car just outside Gruissan, southeast of Narbonne.
Wednesday 2nd August:
Etang-de-Campignol, Etang de Vendre, then drove to Termignon and stayed at
Hotel Relais Des Deux Cols in Lanslebourg Mont Cenis.
Thursday 3rd August:
Morning in Termignon then drove to Nice. Stayed at
Hotel
Saint Gothard, Rue Pagannini.
Friday 4th August:
Nice. Stayed at
Hotel
Saint Gothard, Rue Pagannini.
Saturday 5th August:
Drove to Eaux Bonnes
and slept at
Hotel De La Poste.
Sunday 6th August:
Forêt de’Isseaux, Candanchu, Jaca. Stayed at
Hotel Ramiro 1.
Monday 7th August:
Hecho Valley. Camped at
Camping Victoria.
Tuesday 8th August:
San Juan de la Pena, Hecho Valley. Camped at
Camping Ain Jaca
Wednesday 9th August:
Candanchu, drove to Barcelona. Stayed
Hotel Auto Hogar, Avenida
Paralel.
Thursday 10th August: Barcelona, then drove to Girona. Flew
from Girona to Blackpool.
Key Sites
Étang de Campignol
From Narbonne
take the D32 southeast towards Gruissan. Head southwest along the narrow streets
of the small town of Gruissan, keeping the Étang de Gruissan to your right. At
the junction with D232, just south of the town, head west for c2km and park by
the LPO birdwatching centre, immediately after the road crosses the second
canal. Walk south along the east side of the canal until you reach the shore of
the Étang de Campignol. See ‘Where to Watch Birds in France’ page 172.
Two Sacred Ibis where seen in flight over the étang soon after dawn and
the surrounding vegetation hosted three Melodious Warblers and Red-backed
Shrike. I failed to locate any Moustached Warblers, but a strong breeze
hampered the search for this species.
Étang de Bages-et-Sigean
I had intended to visit this site, situated to the south-southeast of Narbonne
and just north of Sigean, to hopefully see the breeding colony of Sacred Ibis as
described in Birding World 18 (12) 517-526. The
colony should be easy to locate at the site, but after seeing this species
at Étang
de Campignol, I decided not to visit.
Étang de Vendres
Take the D64 from Béziers, crossing the A9 at exit 36, and follow signs for
the village of Vendres. Continue through the village then take a track leading
to the eastern side of the lagoon, which apparently also leads to the remains of
the ‘Temple of Venus’. See ‘Where to Watch Birds in France’ page 181.
A fine selection of Mediterranean species where seen. However, the wind strength
once again hampered chances of connecting with reedbed species.
Termignon
Termignon is accessed by taking the N6 northeast from Modane, which is
situated to the east-northeast of Grenoble. On the hairpin bend just north of
the small village of Termignon take a track north signed ‘Parc National de la
Vanoise’. Continue along the steep, narrow roads until you eventually reach an
obvious parking area (several camper vans were parked there overnight) with a
‘No entry’ sign just beyond it. This area might be called ‘Bellecombe’ on some
maps. Turn around and head back along the road for c3.5km and park in the much
smaller parking area on your left. It is best to travel ‘too far’ to the large
car park, as spotting the first, smaller parking area is very difficult without
initially finding your bearings.
From here walk west along the obvious mountain footpath. See ‘Swiss, Italian &
French Alps – 4th-8th June 2004’ but Phil Bristow et al.
In 2004 Phil Bristow et al. located a pair of Rock Partridge after
walking west along the footpath for 20 minutes. Unfortunately, during the
morning I spent at the site, low cloud meant that visibility was down to only
c10ft, making searching futile. I also walked east for c2km from the upper,
‘Bellecombe’ car park, checking excellent looking habitat, but there was no sign
nor sound of the species from dawn-2pm. Alpine Chough, Water Pipit,
Ring Ouzel and Black Redstart were seen.
Frustratingly, Nutcrackers could be heard calling from all directions,
but due to the poor visibility, could not be seen. Fortunately I managed to gain
good views of four c2km south of the lower car park, during a brief period when
the cloud lifted.
Nice
There is a self-sustaining population of Fischer's Lovebird near Nice; I
connected with the species at two sites to the east of the city.
Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat: Head east out of Nice on the N98 and after c4km take the
D25 south along the peninsula and follow signs for the port. You eventually come
to a small car park on the waters edge. Drive through this car park then north
along a narrow street (keeping the port to your right) towards another car park
by a small beach. Several Fischer’s and Masked Lovebirds were
present in the palms and on the buildings around the car park. In 2005 Tom Lowe
also saw Indian Silverbill here.
Beaulieu-sur-Mer: Beaulieu-sur-Mer is situated just northeast of Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat,
at the head of the peninsula. Head east along the N98 to a car park opposite a
church by La Reserve restaurant. Several Fischer’s and Masked
Lovebirds were present behind the church in the gardens. In 2005 Tom Lowe
also saw Peach-faced Lovebird at this site.
I
am unsure about the taxonomic status of Masked and Fischer’s Lovebirds.
Forêt de’Isseaux
From Oloron-Ste-Marie head south along the N134 then follow signs for
Lourdios. In Lourdios take the right turn signposted ‘Forêt d’Issaux’, ‘Spie
Trindel’ and ‘Balades a Cheval’ (see photo). Single Black Woodpeckers
were seen 3.9km and 6.6km from this junction, but I failed to locate any
White-backed Woodpeckers. I also failed to locate any White-backed Woodpeckers
at the site described in ’Finding Birds in Southern France’ by
Dave Gosney (page 6, site 1), but an early morning visit may have been better
for this species.
Candanchu
This small ski village on the Spanish/French border is signposted off the main
road just south of the Col du Somport. I took the ski lift up into the mountains
tops on two separate occasions, costing
€8 per person each time. Outside the ski
season the lift only operates in August.
I gained fantastic views of a
Wallcreeper on the ground and low rocks c200yds past the small café, keeping
along the right hand track. At least fifteen White-winged Snow Finches were nearby and
10 Citril
Finches were on the slope just below the top of the ski lift. Alpine
Chough, Rock Thrush, Black Redstart and Water Pipit were also noted.
Jaca
Nesting Rock Sparrows showed well at the Citadel.
Hecho
Valley
Two days were spent in the Hecho Valley and various sites were visited. The
valley can be accessed north off the N240 in the village of Puente la Reina, to
the west of Jaca.
The refuge of Garbardito, east of the road, just north of the
villages of Hecho and Siresa failed to produced Wallcreeper or Citril Finch.
However, Peter Gluth had excellent views of the latter species by the drinking
trough near the mountain refuge, by the lower car park in June 2006. Several
trip reports, such as that by James Walsh, give excellent directions to the
‘Wallcreeper cliff’.
The ‘picnic’ area by the river at Selva de Oza produced stunning views of an
adult Lammergeier.
However, this was surprisingly the only Lammergeier I saw during my time in the
Hecho Valley, despite reasonably extensive searching.
The Hecho
Valley also produced
Bonelli’s,
Booted
and Short-toed Eagles.
San Juan
de la Pena
The site is well signposted south off the N240 c11km west of Jaca. See
’Finding
Birds in North Spain’
by Dave Gosney (pages 6-7).
A Black Woodpecker was observed feeding a fledged juvenile in woodland
c50yds along the track to the communications tower (Gosney, page 6), immediately
west of the monastery (there is no vehicular access along this track, park in
the Monastery car park).
Barcelona
Monk
Parakeets were
abundant in most vegetated areas, especially in the
Parc de la Ciutadella.
At least one other
parrot sp
was also seen, but not well enough to identify.
Complete trip list
Great Crested Grebe Podiceps cristatus cristatus
Great Cormorant Phalacrocorax carbo sinensis
Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis ibis
Grey Heron Ardea cinerea cinerea
Purple Heron Ardea purpurea purpurea
White Stork Ciconia ciconia ciconia
Sacred Ibis Threskiornis aethiopicus
Greater Flamingo Phoenicopterus roseus
Gadwall Anas strepera strepera
Mallard Anas platyrhynchos platyrhynchos
Eurasian Honey Buzzard Pernis apivorus
Black Kite Milvus migrans migrans
Red Kite Milvus milvus milvus
Lammergeier Gypaetus barbatus aureus
Egyptian Vulture Neophron percnopterus percnopterus
Eurasian Griffon Vulture Gyps fulvus fulvus
Short-toed Eagle Circaetus gallicus
Marsh Harrier Circus aeruginosus aeruginosus
Montagu's Harrier Circus pygargus
Eurasian Sparrowhawk Accipiter nisus nisus
Common Buzzard Buteo buteo buteo
Booted Eagle Aquila pennata
Bonelli's Eagle Aquila fasciata fasciata
Common Kestrel Falco tinnunculus tinnunculus
Peregrine Falcon Falco peregrinus peregrinus
Coot Fulica atra atra
Black-winged Stilt Himantopus himantopus himantopus
Marsh Sandpiper Tringa stagnatilis
Common Sandpiper Actitis hypoleucos
Yellow-legged Gull Larus michahellis michahellis
Little Tern Sternula albifrons albifrons
Common Tern Sterna hirundo hirundo
Rock Dove Columba livia livia
Stock Dove Columba oenas oenas
Woodpigeon Columba palumbus palumbus
Collared Dove Streptopelia dacaocto dacaocto
Fischer's Lovebird Agapornis fischeri
Monk Parakeet Myiopsitta monachus
Common Swift Apus apus apus
Pallid Swift Apus pallidus brehmorum
Alpine Swift Apus melba melba
Common Kingfisher Alcedo atthis ispida
European Bee-eater Merops apiaster
Hoopoe Upupa epops epops
Iberian Green Woodpecker Picus sharpie
Black Woodpecker Dryocopus martius martius
Great Spotted Woodpecker Dendrocopos major hispanus and pinetorum
Crested Lark Galerida cristata cristata
Sand Martin Riparia riparia riparia
Crag Martin Ptyonoprogne rupestris
Barn Swallow Hirundo rustica rustica
House Martin Delichon urbicum urbicum
Tree Pipit Anthus trivialis trivialis
Water Pipit Anthus spinoletta spinoletta
Yellow Wagtail Motacilla flava flava
Grey Wagtail Motacilla cinerea cinerea
White Wagtail, Motacilla alba alba
Dipper Cinclus cinclus cinclus
Wren Troglodytes troglodytes troglodytes
Dunnock Prunella modularis mabbotti
European Robin Erithacus rubecula rubecula
Black Redstart Phoenicurus ochruros gibraltariensis
Western Stonechat Saxicola torquata rubicola
Northern Wheatear Oenanthe oenanthe oenanthe
Rock Thrush Monticola saxatillis
Ring Ouzel Turdus torquatus alpestris
Common Blackbird Turdus merula merula
Song Thrush Turdus philomelos clarkei
Mistle Thrush Turdus viscivorus viscivorus
Cetti's Warbler Cettia cetti cetti
Fan-tailed Warbler Cisticola juncidis juncidis
Western Reed Warbler Acrocephalus scirpaceus scirpaceus
Melodious Warbler Hippolais polyglotta
Garden Warbler Sylvia borin borin
Blackcap Sylvia atricapilla atricapilla
Common Chiffchaff Phylloscopus collybita collybita
Willow Warbler Phylloscopus trochilus trochilus
Goldcrest Regulus regulus regulus
Firecrest Regulus ignicapilla ignicapilla
Spotted Flycatcher Muscicapa striata striata
Pied Flycatcher Ficedula hypoleuca
Long-tailed Tit Aegithalos caudatus taiti
Blue Tit Cyanistes caeruleus caeruleus
Great Tit Parus major major
Crested Tit Lophophanes cristatus abadiei/mitratus
Coal Tit Periparus ater abietum
Nuthatch Sitta europaea caesia
Wallcreeper Tichodroma muraria muraria
Short-toed Treecreeper Certhia brachydactyla megarhyncha/brachydactyla
Eurasian Golden Oriole Oriolus oriolus oriolus
Red-backed Shrike Lanius collurio collurio
Woodchat Shrike Lanius senator senator
Eurasian Jay Garrulus glandarius glandarius
Black-billed Magpie Pica pica pica/melanotos
Spotted Nutcracker Nucifraga caryocatactes caryocatactes
Alpine Chough Pyrrhocorax graculus graculus
Red-billed Chough Pyrrhocorax pyrrhocorax erythrorhamphos
Western Jackdaw Corvus monedula permologus
Carrion Crow Corvus corone corone
Common Raven Corvus corax corax
Common Starling Sturnus vulgaris vulgaris
House Sparrow Passer domesticus domesticus/balearoibericus
Eurasian Tree Sparrow Passer montanus montanus
Rock Sparrow Petronia petronia petronia
White-winged Snowfinch Montifringilla nivalis nivalis
Chaffinch Fringilla coelebs coelebs
European Serin Serinus serinus
Citril Finch Serinus citronella
Greenfinch Chloris chloris aurantiiventris
Goldfinch Carduelis carduelis parva
Linnet Carduelis cannabina cannabina
Yellowhammer Emberiza citronella citrinella
Rock Bunting Emberiza cia cia
Western Reed Bunting Emberiza schoeniclus schoeniclus/witherbyi
Corn Bunting Emberiza calandra calandra
Stuart
Piner September
2006
|

adult Yellow-legged Gull

Fischer's and Masked Lovebirds


Fischer's Lovebird


Monk Parakeet

European Bee-eater

Forêt de’Isseaux sign in Lourdios

sign at Selva de Oza in Hencho Valley where Lammergeier was seen


Wallcreeper

Red-backed Shrike


White-winged Snow Finch
all images taken
by Stuart Piner & Josephine Gluth with a Sony Cyber-shot DSC-N1 or Sony
Cyber-shot DSC-W30 mounted to a Leica APO77 telescope with a
Leica Digiscoping Adapter and 20x or 30x wide angle eyepieces
|
Fuerteventura - 15th-23rd February 2006
This trip was a
mixture of birding and family sightseeing. Given restirictions on
time in the field the target was to see Fuerteventura Stonechat,
Houbara Bustard and a minimum of 50 species whilst accepting a
few island specialities might be missed. This was achieved, and
the finding of a Spanish national rarity added greatly to the
bonhomie of an already good week.
Roads were generally quiet and well maintained. The road south of
Betancuria is best avoided by those of a nervous disposition.
Some of the tracks are very driveable, particularly the one to
the dam at Embalse de los Molinos.
Day 1
Arriving early afternoon we transferred from the airport
to our apartment in Corralejo. The journey was interrupted by a
return to the airport so there was a lot of opportunity to look
for some initial entries on the list. Other than Yellow-legged
Gulls and some potential Lesser Black-backed Gulls among them
only a Kestrel was positively identified.
After unpacking a wander into Corralejo produced several Spanish
Sparrows at the apartment and many more en route to the harbour.
Turnstones were conspicuous in the harbour itself, later in the
trip we would see a local feeding them with fish he was stripping
at a table on the rocks.
Observations from the balcony of the apartment in the evening
produced a Chiffchaff or two, a female Blackcap and a presumed
Berthelots Pipit on rough ground across the road. Collared
Doves, Feral Pigeons and Linnets were also added to the list
before close of play.
Day 2
A short boat trip to the former volcanic island of Los
Lobos, just of Corralejo. This was primarily for the scenery, and
very spectacular it is in an eerie kind of way. The bird interest
was generally rather limited save for Berthelots Pipits at
regular intervals. By half way round the six mile circuit of the
island these had only been augmented by a couple of Ravens,
another Turnstone, a Whimbrel, a Redshank and a mixed group of
Yellow-legged Gulls and Lesser Black-backed Gulls.
The second half of the walk from the lighthouse at the north end
back to the harbour did improve the trip list somewhat with a
couple of Southern Grey Shrikes (one memorably carrying a lizard
victim) and a Buzzard of the Canary Islands race which drifted
over south west.
Back in Corralejo Little Egret and Common Sandpiper were added to
the list, both were to be seen at most coastal sites visited
during the week.
Day 3
With a newly received hire car the first stop of the day
was the Embalse de las Molinos. Or it would have been if we
hadnt set off on the wrong track on arrival. However this
did no harm as splendid views of about 10 Trumpeter Finches
proved to be the best of the whole trip.
On arriving at the Embalse itself (having successfully evaded a
couple of camels on the road) things finally began to pick up
pace with a couple of Fuerteventura Stonechats seen at very close
range. Also seen at this great site were nine Ruddy Shelducks,
six Greenshank, Dunlin, Green Sandpiper as well as egrets and
over 60 Coot. New birds for the trip also included Hoopoes, and a
White Wagtails which was a species not seen anywhere else during
the week.
Moving onto Betancuria a local race (degener) African Blue Tit
was seen well in the grounds of the craft museum. Buzzards
circled and the first Plain Tiger butterfly of the trip was seen.
Moving on to Las Penitas the instructions in Clarke and Collins
were not understood so the reservoir edge was not reached, but
the walk added Song Thrush (only one of the trip) and then
Spectacled Warbler to the birds seen. The first Barbary Ground
Squirrels were seen, these proved to be regular even in some of
the tourist resorts.
Day 4
A long drive down to the La Pared area to work the dunes
before taking the kids to the zoo in the afternoon. On the way in
to Costa Calma half a dozen Pallid Swifts were welcome. Walking
out on to the dunes was testing the patience of the travel party,
with only the ubiquitous Lesser Short-toed Larks to show for it.
Proceedings were about to be called to a close when a magnificent
Houbara Bustard flew past at point blank range. On the way back
to the car another was seen at reasonable range feeding for
several minutes before melting into the vegetation. Cracking.
Lunch on the outskirts of the town produced the only Goldfinch of
the trip and more great views of Plain Tiger butterflies.
Heading on to the Oasis Park zoo at La Lajita the bins were kept
round my neck just in case. Half way between the meerkats and the
otter tank a strangely familiar yet utterly out of place
swee call was heard. Not knowing quite what to expect
I was relieved to see the bird in question pop up obligingly in
full view barely twenty feet away. Raising my bins I was
confronted with a Yellow-browed Warbler! Fumbling around for my
video camera I tried to get some footage, eventually ending up
with record shots of the eye stripe and wingbars between
vegetation and great recording of the call.
Shortly after this undoubted highlight another new bird for the
trip was seen in the form of a Grey Wagtail frequenting the otter
pool in the zoo. This was the only one seen on the whole trip.
Less satisfying but going on the list were Monk Parakeets.
Returning home we went via Catalina Garcia lake. The Ring-necked
Duck and Lesser Scaup seen here recently were unfortunately not
on view. However some compensation was provided by three
Spoonbills, two Black-tailed Godwits, a Ruddy Shelduck and a few
other waders.
Day 5
Tried unsuccessfully to increase the desert specialities
seen by driving some tracks off El Cotillo, which eventually
triumphed over the hire car. Walking from the resort to El
Cotillo did produce several wader species including Ringed and
Grey Plovers. Best of all though were the 10 Kentish Plovers,
including a group of eight near the lighthouse.
The afternoon was spent largely in Catalina de Fuste, largely
doing tourist things. A check of the saltpans to the south of the
resort produced a few waders but nothing new. A small diversion
to the Barranco de Torre did however produce a welcome Plain
Swift.
Stopping to swim in the sea at the Corralejo dunes produced a
couple of Sanderling, again the only ones of the trip.
Day 6
Last day with a car. Given the chance to do some birding
in the morning I elected to go to the Embalse rather than scour
for desert species with no guarantee of success. This produced a
couple of Grey Herons and good views of a Buzzard as well as no
fewer than 15 Ruddy Shelducks. Returning from the far end I
spotted a female duck not seen on the way down, expecting perhaps
a Teal I was surprised to see it was a Shoveler.
Returning to Las Penitas to crack the access to the reservoir
edge was successful, and produced the only Sardinian Warblers
seen during the week. Blue Tits and Spectacled Warblers were also
plentiful in this area.
Day 7
A whistle stop tour of Lanzarote. Following the purest
group of Rock Doves I have ever seen at the camel area on the
fire mountain the 50th species of the trip was
notched up with a Swallow flying over the caves in the north of
the island where the unique blind albino crabs live. That looked
like it for a great holiday until a couple of Corys
Shearwaters were seen in the gloom from the ferry back to
Fuerteventura.
Day 8
Packing and home. No new species.
Species List
Corys Shearwater
Two seen from the Lanzarote-Fuerteventura ferry
crossing.
Little Egret
Widespread. Up to four birds seen together at locations
including Corralejo (especially north of the harbour), Embalse de
los Molinos, Catalina Garcia, the shoreline pool at Los Molinos,
El Cotillo shore etc.
Grey Heron
At least two at Embalse de los Molinos on second visit,
one (of these?) over Las Penitas reservoir the same day.
Spoonbill
Three together at Catalina Garcia, including a Darvic
ringed bird.
Ruddy Shelduck
Up to 15 at Embalse do los Molinos, one at Catalina
Garcia.
Shoveler
Female at Embalse de los Molinos on one visit.
Buzzard
Local race birds seen over Los Lobos, Betancuria, Las
Penitas and at the Embalse de los Molinos.
Kestrel
Local race birds widespread on Fuerteventura, and also
seen at several sites on Lanzarote.
Barbary Partridge
One at Embalse do los Molinos.
Coot
Over 60 at Embalse de los Molinos, c16 at Catalina
Garcia and two at Las Penitas.
Houbara Bustard
Two seen at La Pared dunes on the outskirts of Costa
Calma.
Little Ringed Plover
Three at Catalina Garcia and one at Embalse do los
Molinos.
Ringed Plover
Four on El Cotillo shore.
Kentish Plover
Ten in the El Cotillo area, including eight together
near the lighthouse by the road.
Grey Plover
Two on El Cotillo shore.
Sanderling
Two on the beach at Corralejo dunes.
Turnstone
Up to 25 at El Corralejo. Also seen at El Cotillo and
the saltpans south of Catalina de Fuste.
Dunlin
Seen at Corralejo harbour, the saltpans south of
Catalina de Fuste and Embalse de los Molinos.
Green Sandpiper
One at Embalse de los Molinos.
Common Sandpiper
Up to two birds seen at Corralejo harbour, El Cotillo
shore, Los Molinos shore and the saltpans south of Catalina de
Fuste.
Redshank
Three at the saltpans south of Catalina de Fuste, one on
Los Lobos.
Greenshank
Up to six at Embalse de los Molinos and three at
Catalina Garcia.
Black-tailed Godwit
Two at Catalina Garcia.
Whimbrel
Up to six north of Corralejo harbour, three at El
Cotillo and one on Los Lobos.
Yellow-legged Gull
Widespread.
Lesser Black-backed Gull
Several seen for certain in gull flocks on Los Lobos.
Rock Dove
Particularly pure looking flocks at Las Penitas, and
particularly on the fire mountains on Lanzarote.
Feral Pigeon
Widespread.
Collared Dove
Common and widespread.
Turtle Dove
One heard near Tefia.
Pallid Swift
Six birds over Costa Calma.
Plain Swift
One in the Barranco de la Torre.
Hoopoe
Generally widespread other than in the Corralejo area,
not seen on Los Lobos.
Monk Parakeet
Seen at La Lajita.
Lesser Short-toed Lark
Seen in large numbers at La Pared, smaller numbers off
tracks at El Cotillo.
Swallow
One seen at Jameos del Agua, Lanzarote.
Berthelots Pipit
Widespread.
White Wagtail
Seen on both visits to Embalse de los Molinos (up to two
birds).
Grey Wagtail
One feeding round the otter tank at Oasis Park zoo, Las
Lajitas.
Fuerteventura Stonechat
Three seen at Embalse de los Molinos.
Song Thrush
One in cultivations at Vega de Rio Palmas.
Blackcap
Seen from apartment in Corralejo, a number singing at
Costa Calma.
Spectacled Warbler
Most seen at Las Penitas. Small numbers elsewhere.
Chiffchaff
Up to two seen around the apartment in Corralejo.
Yellow-browed Warbler
One in the grounds of Oasis Park zoo, La Lajita.
African Blue Tit
Local race birds seen at Betancuria and heard at Las
Penitas.
Southern Grey Shrike
Widespread. Also seen on Los Lobos and Lanzarote.
Raven
Widespread. Also seen on Los Lobos and Lanzarote.
Spanish Sparrow
Common at virtually all settlements on Fuerteventura and
Lanzarote.
Linnet
Regular over apartment in Corralejo, several seen at El
Cotillo and smaller numbers elsewhere.
Goldfinch
One over Costa Calma.
Trumpeter Finch
Seen at several sites, easiest at Embalse de los Molinos
and between here and Los Molinos.
The following additional species were seen by two other groups
visiting the island in February, to give an indication of the
variety of species present:
Teal
Ring-necked Duck
Lesser Scaup
Egyptian Vulture
Booted Eagle (barely annual)
Barbary Falcon
Moorhen
Cream-coloured Courser
Lapwing
Golden Plover
Spotted Redshank
Curlew (probable heard by myself at Las Penitas)
Sandwich Tern
Black-bellied Sandgrouse
Little Swift
Fieldfare
Hawfinch (no previous records)
Stripping out the exceptional records from each of the three
trips (Yellow-browed Warbler, Booted Eagle and Hawfinch and the
long-staying vagrant American ducks) a total of about 60 would
seem a reasonable February target for those able to bird the best
sites without distraction.
In terms of other wildlife interest butterflies included Plain
Tiger and Greenish Black-Tip. Mammals seen were the introduced
Barbary Ground Squirrels, several Rabbits and Algerian Hedgehogs
(road casualties only). A number of dragonflies were seen, but
other then Blue-tailed Damselfly not seen well enough to name.
Stephen Dunstan March 2006
Morocco 2nd-10th April
2005
After gaining inspiration from several trip reports
backed with a long harboured ambition to visit, I decided
to journey to Morocco with
Alan Clewes, Andy Clifton and Stuart Piner in early April 2005.
Our simple aim of this trip was to see as much as we
could in a little over a week and really aim to locate
and appreciate several target species that
can be found in this extremely diverse country. We flew
to Casablanca and performed a circular route - traveling as far north as Merdja Zerga, then traversing the Middle
Atlas to reach the extreme south-east of the country at
Erfoud and then heading west towards Agadir before
heading north again to Casablanca.
Logistics
Due to the restrictions on dates (due to work commitments
for some of us), we were forced to travel using the
comparatively expensive British Airways option (£386 per person including taxes)
in order to optimize our time in Morocco. Additionally,
our travel within the Easter holidays further ensured our
inflated air price compared to other times of year or
carrier (for example return flights by Airtours from
Manchester to Agadir were available for as little as
£199 including taxes in March 2004 for further
details see Chris Battys
trip report).
We left London Heathrow mid afternoon on Saturday 2nd
April (arriving in Casablanca mid evening) and returned
from Casablanca late morning the following Sunday.
Unfortunately, on arrival at the check-in desk for our
return flight, we were told that there was no space on
the flight despite the fact that we had a ticket (this
was apparently due to the cancellation of a flight the
previous day). After much conveyance that the reason why
we had flown British Airways was so that such a situation
would not occur, we were flown back to Heathrow (via
Paris) with
Air France and BMI for no additional charge.
Car hire was booked through the Holiday Autos website with Budget as our ground agent for a total of £393
for a Toyota Avensis with an additional local charge for
a second driver. Unfortunately, due to one of our party
mislaying the car keys near Erfoud, we had to transfer to
a Peugeot 406 midway through our trip (which we picked up
at the Budget office in the centre of
Ouarzazate). This episode, occurring due to our own
incompetence, highlighted the need to use a recognised
ground agent with offices located throughout the country.
Overnight accommodation was found on arrival at each
destination with relative ease, although we did struggle
to find suitable accommodation near the airport at
Casablanca on our final night and were forced to stay
within the city itself. Typical decent standard
accommodation cost £10 - £15 per person per night
although we found acceptable standards for as little as
£4.50 per person in central Ouarzazate. Additionally, a
couple of us stayed at the Auberge Kasbah Dakaoua (whilst
the other two decided upon the car) for one night where
tented accommodation and an evening meal were priced at
£28 per person. Outrageously luxurious for the meagre
price of £10 per person, and worthy of a special
mention, was the
Auberge Kasbah
Tombouctou at
Merzouga.
Expecting food to be of variable standard to say the
least, we had our usual contingency supply of Nutri-grain
bars. Thankfully, we were more than impressed by the
general standard and soon put the bread and
crisps diet to the back of our mind and tucked into
tajines almost every evening with the less culinary
adventurous amongst our party enjoying a regular supply
of pizzas and burgers. The only disappointment came in
Agadir where, all psyched up for a McDonalds
breakfast, we found out that this establishment
doesnt offer these early morning feasts
in Morocco. Throughout the trip, we ensured that we only
drank bottled water and all members of the team remained
perfectly healthy throughout.
The local currency, the dirham (£1 equaled 15 dirhams
during our visit), is a restricted currency and cannot be
taken out of the country and is not available abroad.
However it is easy to purchase within the country as all
towns that we visited contained ATM machines that
accepted internationally recognised cards. For the latest
currency rates, details can be found at oanda.com.
Literature
Although Morocco is a large country, there is a
relatively standard birding route with
several sites of interest being pinpointed by birders in
order to see a variety of the target species.
Finding Birds in Northern Morocco and
Finding Birds in Southern Morocco, both by
Dave Gosney, were invaluable to the trip and can be
purchased from
Birdguides with updates posted
here. The new edition of A
Birdwatchers Guide to Morocco by Patrick and
Fedora Bergier was also useful, in particular as it
covers many sites that Gosney does not mention as well as
providing tips for accommodation. A Birdwatching
Guide to Morocco by Pete Combridge and Alan Snook
was relatively light in terms of content for our purpose.
A 1992 Morocco trip report by Tim Allwood et al,
purchased from Steve Whitehouses
FBRIS some years ago, provided details
for our Tristrams Warbler site.
We used a 1:800,000 GeoCenter World Map of Morocco
throughout our visit; purchased from
Stanfords. A
Lonely Planet guide to Morocco was also used
during the trip, allowing us to discover the range of
accommodation available in areas that we wished to visit.
The Collins Bird Guide (Mullarney, Svensson, Zetterstrom
and Grant) was used throughout the trip while the 17 CD
set Die Vogelstimmen by Andreas Schulze was also a useful
resource.
Websites and
acknowledgements
Information on birdwatching in Morocco can be gained from
the many trip reports to be found on various websites
such as
Surfbirds and
Birdtours. Additionally, Go-South contains recent Moroccan
sightings and further information on birdwatching in
Morocco. Particularly useful is
Chris Batty's report from March 2004 whilst
further information was kindly provided by Chris Batty,
Martijn Bot, Tony Clarke, Dave Farrow, Andrew Holden,
Marnix Jonker, James Lidster and Arnoud van den Berg.
Other
Information
We were impressed by the standard of roads in the
country, with asphalt surfaces experienced everywhere
except between Erfoud and Merzouga. With little traffic
and relatively low speed limits, the Moroccan police
force are exceptionally hot on speed traps using radar
guns. These tended to all be located on the outskirts of
city limits (where the 40 km per hour zones continue
inexplicably far from the built-up areas) or on the
auto-routes in the north of the country. Although we had
been warned about night driving, the only danger we noted
were the many pedestrians on conurbation peripheries and
the odd motorbike with little in the way of lights.
In the Erfoud area, if you are traveling in a
conventional car, it is currently not possible to drive
the old road to Merzouga due to re-construction. However,
if you continue from Erfoud to Rissani and proceed along
the asphalt road east of Rissani, Merzouga (and Auberge
Kasbah Dakaoua) can be successfully accessed along the
sandy tracks leading off the main road.
Moroccan people have a reputation to enjoy a bit of
haggling our visit was no exception. Conversely,
though, this is done in a friendly way and on no occasion
did we feel as though we had to buy anything or were
being swindled. The only slight problem that we had to
deal with was when our guide failed to produce the hoped
for Houbara Bustard having negotiated a reduced
rate of pay for the lack of this species (as everybody in
Erfoud will claim to be able to show you Houbara
Bustard), he appeared slightly surprised when we
presented him with the amount. After initially giving us
a sob story, he then claimed that he would phone the
police! I calmly announced that this was an impossibility
as he had no battery left on his phone and, realising he
was not going to extract any more cash from us, shook our
hands laughing and drove off.
The only area where you may experience in your face
harassment will be in the town of Erfoud. One way
to combat this, and to make this part of your trip a
little less stressful, would be to hire the services of Idriss or his brother both
multi-lingual guides and top blokes who can point you in
the direction of Desert Sparrows etc. Additionally, when
we lost our car keys at the Pharaoh Eagle Owl site near
Rissani they were able to fetch mechanics and arrange
taxis so that we could (eventually) continue our trip.
Finally, it would be advisable to have at least one
member of your crew to be conversant in French
though this is not a necessity, my French had to be fully
utilised when we were sorting out our second hire car of
the trip with Budget in Ouarzazate!
Itinerary
A brief outline of our trip (with approximate driving
times) is detailed below:
Saturday drove north from Casablanca
airport to Temara-plage (south of Rabat) where we stayed
overnight.
Sunday Sidi Yahya at dawn then drove to
Merdja Zerga (c2 ½ hour drive). 1 ½ hour drive back
south to Lac de Sidi Bourhaba (and Mehdiya Plage) and
finally driving (3 ½ hours) to Ifrane where we stayed
overnight at the Hotel Chamonix.
Monday Dayet Aoua from first light then
a couple of hours driving (after several roadside stops)
to Zaida. An hour or so drive to Col Talghomt (south-east
of Midelt) with a further 2 ½ hour drive to a site 43km
west of Errachidia. Overnight at the Auberge Kasbah
Tombouctou at Merzouga (after searching for Egyptian
Nightjar).
Tuesday Merzouga area from early morning
with a visit to the Auberge Erg Chebbi and the wadi
adjacent to the Auberge Kasbah Dakaoua then the late
morning and afternoon spent on a 4x4 in the desert area
north-east of Erfoud and east of Aoufouss. Evening
birding at the Auberge Kasbah Dakaoua with an overnight
stay here.
Wednesday a short early morning drive
from the Auberge Kasbah Dakaoua to cliffs 4.9km west of
Rissani. 5 hour drive west to Ouarzazate with overnight
accommodation in the town centre.
Thursday stony desert area from 57km
east of Ouarzazate to similar areas 26km west of
Ouarzazate until dusk. Overnight drive of c8 hours to
area south of Guelmine (punctuated with a visit to Agadir
airport and Oued Sous for Red-necked Nightjar). Overnight
in the car just south of Guelmine.
Friday stony desert areas up to 22km
south of Guelmine until mid morning then a couple of
hours drive north to Oued Massa and then, finally, an
hour or so drive to Oued Sous on the southern fringes of
Agadir for dusk. Overnight at the Hotel Pergola near Oued
Sous.
Saturday Oued Sous early morning with a
couple of hours drive north along the coast to Tamri.
Brief stop at Essaouira with a 2 ½ hour drive to Cape
Beddouza (for a brief bit of seawatching) and then a
further half hour or so drive to the vast coastal lagoons
between El Oualidia and Sidi-Moussa (south of El-Jadida).
Overnight spent in Casablanca city centre.
Sunday departed from Casablanca Airport
late morning.
Target birds
Ruddy Shelduck
Six on the open water at the mouth of the Oued
Massa (Gosney Southern page 10 site 6). There was no
water in the lake at Merzouga and we similarly failed to
locate any water north of Maadid, near Erfoud (where this
species had been seen the previous week).
Ring-necked Duck
The long-staying male was easily located with
the Common Pochard flock south of the causeway at Lac de
Sidi Bourhaba (Gosney Northern page 10 site 3).
Marbled Duck
Eight at Lac de Sidi Bourhaba south of the
causeway (Gosney Northern page 10 site 3). 2 on the pools
at Oued Massa (Gosney Southern page 10 site 6) and 2 on
lagoons between Oualidia to Sidi Moussa (Gosney Northern
page 18).
Barbary Partridge
One by the asphalt road by the entrance to the
car park at Sidi Yahya (Gosney Northern page 12 site 1)
and another adjacent to the road 3.5km beyond the hunting
lodge returning to Sidi Yahya village. A further
individual on roadside rock face between Ouarzazate and
Tazenakht by a small pink castle-type building near the
Agadir 297 post and 3 birds flushed from
coastal scrub at the Oued Sous (Gosney Southern page 8
site 2).
Double-spurred Francolin
At least 3 males calling from dawn, audible from
the car park at Sidi Yahya (Gosney Northern page 12 site
1) including 1 bird located in the scrub immediately
adjacent to the car park. Early morning mist, however,
reduced our chances of locating any further calling birds
in the valley. Although the directions in Gosney are
adequate, further directions to the site from Temara may
be helpful. Approaching Temara from the main coast road,
go straight on at the first x-roads in the town and then
turn right at the t-junction. Follow this road for 1.4km
and turn left, at the next T-junction turn right and then
turn left at the obvious cross-roads. Drive down this
road for c9km when you will reach the village of Sidi
Yahya just before you reach the village proper,
take the obvious right as the road goes downhill and
follow this road for 13km passing the hunting lodge on
your right. The car park can be reached via an unobvious
track on the right a few hundred metres before the
Sidi Betache 17km post.
Northern Bald Ibis
This species was easily observed from the main
road between 6 and 9km north of Tamri village.
Additionally, we stumbled upon the colony where we were
informed that at least 200 individuals were present this
year. For obvious reasons, it is necessary not to reveal
the location of this colony.
Black-winged Kite
Three individuals showed very well over poppy
and arable fields 1.5km north of the hunting lodge (i.e.
back towards the village of Sidi Yahya from the car
park) at Sidi Yahya. A further individual was seen
by the roadside between Casablanca town and the airport.
Lanner Falcon
One south of Guelmine and south of the bridge
over the Oued Sayad on telegraph posts adjacent to the
Tan-Tan 122 post and directly opposite a
camel sign (Gosney Southern page 2 site 2).
Western Swamp-hen
Two were located in reeds to the south of the
causeway at Lac de Sidi Bourhaba (Gosney Northern page 10
site 3).
Crested Coot
At least 15 at Lac de Sidi Bourhaba (Gosney
Northern page 10) and at least 30 on the lake at Dayet
Aoua (Gosney Northern page14 sites 1 and 2).
Cream-coloured Courser
We readily stumbled upon this species in pretty
much any suitable desert habitat. 5 were located north of
Zaida c2km south of the junction to Itzer, at least 9 in
the area 43km west of Errachidia, 5 c15km east of
Ouarzazate and 3 south-west of the junction to
Marrakech/Agadir 348 (26km west of
Ouarzazate).
Crowned Sandgrouse
Seven flew north over the desert area just west
of the Agadir 421 post east of Ouarzazate
(and east of Skirou).
Black-bellied Sandgrouse
Three in the stony desert south of the main road
55km east of Ouarzazate.
Laughing Dove
Regularly encountered in southern and
south-eastern areas of habitation such as Erfoud,
Errachidia and Ouarzazate.
Pharaoh Eagle Owl
The popular individual was easily
located roosting in its favoured cave west of Rissani.
Heading north from Rissani village, you will soon locate
a green Ziz petrol station on your left. Immediately
after this turn left on the road signposted to Alnif and
clock 4.9km from here and park adjacent to the roadside
near the Alnif 84 km post. There is an
obvious ridge of rocks immediately to the north of the
road walk along the eastern base of these for
approximately 1.5km until you reach a low ridge of rocks
followed by a fairly large slag mound. Climb
this largest mound and look at 11 oclock where you
will locate the favoured cave just to the left of an
obvious fault in the cliff-face.
Marsh Owl
Four birds showed well at the south end of
Merdja Zerga. From the main coast road, take the turn off
to Moullay Bousselham. Instead of driving to this
village, proceed south along the road east of Merdja
Zerga, through the village of Gnafdi, for several
kilometres until you reach an obvious bridge over the
Nados Canal. Turn right onto the sandy track immediately
after the bridge and drive as far as you can and park in
the poplar woodland on the left. Continuing on foot, with
the canal on your right, the poplars will end and the
Marsh Owls were located over the first extensive area of
juncos on the left hand side (Gosney Northern page 6 site
5). Note that these birds are vulnerable to disturbance
and, under no circumstances, do not stray from the path.
Red-necked Nightjar
Three birds were readily seen, and heard
singing, at dusk at the Oued Sous (Gosney Southern page 8
site 3). We had excellent views of one individual on the
entrance track immediately before you reach the car park
by the guard building. In a brief midnight search at
Agadir Airport, we were unable to locate this species.
Little Swift
At least a couple were seen at Casablanca
airport on our departure.
Blue-cheeked Bee-eater
One was noted on wires in the village of
Aoufouss (to the north of Erfoud) and a further 3 in the
small village to the west of Skirou 12 km
post (east of Ouarzazate). Several were also seen by
other observers during our visit on the road between
Timejdad and Erfoud.
Levaillants Green Woodpecker
At least 3 showed well at Dayet Aoua (in the
roadside trees between Gosney Northern page 14 sites 2
and 3).
Bar-tailed Desert Lark
This is a typical species of the sandy desert in
the south of the country. At least 6 were noted on either
side of the main road 43km west of Errachidia, several
were seen on our 4x4 trip into the desert north-east of
Erfoud and a few were also present 22km south of Guelmine
(Gosney Southern page 2 site 3).
Desert Lark
The fluty song of this species is instantly
recognisable and far carrying in the arid, stony desert
areas of the south. Two pairs were located on our 4x4
drive into the desert north-east of Erfoud with
additional birds being present in suitable habitat 55km
and 57km east of Ouarzazate.
Greater Hoopoe Lark
At least 3 showed well, with birds present on
either side of the road, 43km west of Errachidia.
Thick-billed Lark
In an excellent year for this species, two pairs
were seen (one pair either side of the road) 43km west of
Errachidia and at least 5 showed well on the stony desert
a couple of hundred metres to the west of the road near
the Guelmin 22 km post (Gosney Southern page
2 site 3) . The week prior to our visit, this species had
been noted 4km east of Mellab on the road west of Erfoud
towards Timejdad.
Temmincks Horned Lark
A pair showed to a few yards in the desert area
to the south of the main road 43km west of Errachidia.
Plain Martin
Only seen in the Oued Massa area (Gosney
Southern page 10) from the main road, take the
turning to Massa village. At the T-junction turn left and
proceed for a couple of km until you reach a bridge over
a dried up river bed and park here. Walk right from this
bridge and this species nests in the riverbank several
hundred metres along the rough path. Other birds were
located over the arable fields adjacent to the river
(near Gosney Southern page 10 site 4).
Moroccan Wagtail
Two in the drainage ditch running at right
angles to the path opposite the guard hut at the Oued
Sous (Gosney Southern page 8). The only other individual
noted was near the bridge over the Ksob Wadi south of
Essaouira (Gosney Southern page 4 site 2).
Common Bulbul
Seen regularly and fairly numerous on the
coastal strip from Guelmine (Gosney Southern page 2)
north to Sidi Yahya (Gosney Northern page 12).
Moussiers Redstart
At least 4 males at Dayet Aoua along the track
to the orchard (Gosney Northern page 14) with
a further male by the roadside south of Azrou, a pair by
the roadside 55km north of Rich, 3+ at the
Tristrams Warbler site south-east of
Midelt on the Tizi-n-Tairhemt pass and several on the
Oued Massa reserve (Gosney Southern page 10).
Seebohms Wheatear
We only noted this species between Azrou and
Itzer (south of Ifrane and north of Zeida) where several
were noted by the roadside in suitable Middle Atlas
habitat.
Desert Wheatear
Common in desert areas near Erfoud, Guelmine and
Ouarzazate.
Red-rumped Wheatear
Surprisingly, we only noted this species at two
sites appeared common in the desert area south of
Guelmine with at least 3 noted to the west of the road
adjacent to the Guelmine 22 km post (Gosney
Southern page 2 site 3) and a family party just south of
the Oued Sayad (Gosney Southern page 2 site 2). A further
individual showed well on the plains 13km south of Zeida
(Gosney Northern page 16).
Western Mourning Wheatear
A pair showed well by the roadside 29km west of
Ouarzazate. 26km west of Ouarzazate on the main road you
will reach a junction where Agadir 348 km is
to the left and Marrakech is straight on continue
in the direction of Marrakech. The birds were immediately
adjacent to the Ouarzazate 29 km post with
the male singing from the roadside wires to the left of
the road and the female showing well on the rocky
hillside to the right of the road. Searching of stony
desert areas up to 57km east of Ouarzazate proved
fruitless (including last years site south of the
road at Ouarzazate 55 km post).
White-crowned Wheatear
Commonly seen in the Erfoud and Ouarzazate
desert areas.
Black Wheatear
Much less numerous than the previous species
with singles noted in Zeida town (Gosney Northern page
16), by the main road west of the Tizi-n-Tairhemt pass
55km north of Rich and 1 by the obvious road tunnel on
the main road north of Errachidia.
Scrub Warbler
A pair (of the form saharae) were seen
43km west of Errachidia north of the main road. Just west
of the Errachidia 43 km post, park by the
bridge over the small wadi. Looking north-west from the
bridge, you will note an obvious area of low green scrub
that you need to walk towards. After walking through the
first 150 yards or so of these bushes, you will come to
an area of bare sand and then another, more extensive
area of bushes will start fairly imminently. We located
this species after a further 200 yards on the eastern
edge of this more extensive area. Additionally, we failed
to find this species (of the form theresae) in
the bushes west of the main road south of Guelmine
immediately south of the Oued Sayad and to the east of
the plastic covered structures (Gosney Southern page 2
site 2).
Tristrams Warbler
In early April, this species has returned to its
mid altitude breeding areas and, as such, we located a
pair at a favoured site south-east of Midelt on the
Tizi-n-Tairhemt pass. If you are coming from Midelt, park
in the lay-by on the hairpin bend by the Er-Rich
51 and Errachidia 114 signpost exactly
1.5km before you reach the pass summit (signed Col
Talghomt 1907m). You will know this is the correct
locality as the roadside rock face is strewn with obvious
graffiti and an attention au feu (fire) sign
is also present. Walk down the obvious valley and the
birds favour the bushes to the left of the ravine.
African Desert Warbler
A pair showed well to the north of the road 43km
west of Errachidia (see Scrub Warbler for site
directions) they favoured the scrub c400 yards
north of the road before flying into the obvious bright
green strip running east beyond the small
hillock to the right of the main area of vegetation. A
further individual was noted in similar desert scrub
habitat on the 4x4 drive to the north-east of Erfoud.
Fulvous Babbler
At least a pair favoured the gardens and the
adjacent wadi at the Auberge Kasbah Dakaoua south of
Erfoud (Gosney Southern page 26 site 3), 10+ were seen in
similar habitat on the 4x4 drive to the north-east of
Erfoud and at least 7 were noted in the bushes to the
south of the Oued Sayad, south of Guelmine (Gosney
Southern page 2 site 2).
Black-crowned Tchagra
A pair showed very well in saline scrub at Oued
Sous (to the east of Gosney Southern page 8 site 2)
park by the entrance gate and walk behind the
guard house keeping the small channel on your left, cross
the bridge and view the small area of bushes where the
Tchagras were favouring. This species was also heard at
Sidi Yahya and at Oued Massa (though we failed to see
this species here due to our mid afternoon visit).
Brown-necked Raven
A single seen in the desert adjacent to Merzouga
village, a flock of 7 2km west of Auberge Kasbah Dakaoua
adjacent to the track to the asphalt road to Rissani and
c10 birds over the road 4.9km west of Rissani (where you
park for the Pharaoh Eagle Owl).
Desert Sparrow
A pair and a further male showed very well in
the mucky courtyard immediately adjacent to the Auberge
Erg Chebbi in Merzouga. We did not try the usual site at
Café Yasmina (Gosney Southern page 26 site 4 - birds
have apparently been irregular in | |